The Tuned CivicX Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models)

[gtman]

Vehicle: 2017 Civic EX-T

Best of luck, man.

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[topher_fc3]

Vehicle: 2020 SI Coupe

Total tuned time: less than 2 weeks

Total tuned mileage: less than 500 miles

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner v2

Tunes used: Starter 19.5/21.5 with rev hang disabled

Fuel used: 91 Shell/Chevron

Additional engine mods: 27won intake, hks hi power exhaust, eibach pro kit springs

Problems/issues: none related to tuner

Driving style: usually chill with spirited bursts, not much excessive speed, no hard acceleration after 4th gear.

Tuning Experience Notes: a batch of bad gas (ARCO) took the car down for a few days the morning after I first tuned it, it wouldn’t turn over. Dealer had car for 4 days, I reflashed to factory before it was towed. Dealer made no mention of ecu and provided sample of the bad gas with visible oily substance in the sample. Developed a newfound anxiety for monitoring the knock control and also wishing 93 gas was available here. Only running base tunes and it’s a welcome and noticeable difference even with just the 19.5/21.5. The phaerable stage 1.5 is on my radar but I’m hesitant because of the gas situation here.

Coming up on 10k miles total and about 8k tuned and the car is running great. Knock control is just about always around .49-.52 on 91 unless I get on it but it generally stays mid .5x to low .6x even then. I’m still mostly running map 1 as it’s plenty for daily driving. I’ll run map 2/3 on occasion with some e85 splashed in.

not visible in this update is that I’ve been running phearable 1.5 for 5k+ miles

 

[gtman]

Coming up on 10k miles total and about 8k tuned and the car is running great. Knock control is just about always around .49-.52 on 91 unless I get on it but it generally stays mid .5x to low .6x even then. I’m still mostly running map 1 as it’s plenty for daily driving. I’ll run map 2/3 on occasion with some e85 splashed in.

Thanks for adding your car.

It's interesting how there are two schools of thought on using the 3 maps. There are those who run the high power map all the time saying " Why use a less powerful map? I'll control the power with my right foot". And I totally get the sentiment.

Like you, for my every day commutes, map 1 is generally good enough, although some days I use map 2 instead. I save map 3 for those "fun runs" I do from time to time.

There's no wrong answer here. Gotta love tuning.

 

[topher_fc3]

It's interesting how there are two schools of thought on using the 3 maps. There are those who run the high power map all the time saying " Why use a less powerful map? I'll control the power with my right foot". And I totally get the sentiment.

Definitely two ways to go about and no wrong answer.

I reckon if I had 93 around I’d run map 2 and even 3 a lot more often but staying in 1 keeps me out of trouble ?.

Have some new all seasons on the way (continental extreme contact dws 06) and the extra grip may get me to roll around in map 2 more often.

 

[gtman]

Definitely two ways to go about and no wrong answer.

I reckon if I had 93 around I’d run map 2 and even 3 a lot more often but staying in 1 keeps me out of trouble ?.

Have some new all seasons on the way (continental extreme contact dws 06) and the extra grip may get me to roll around in map 2 more often.

Same tires I have on those new wheels I'll eventually add. They're supposed to be excellent.

 

[topher_fc3]

Same tires I have on those new wheels I'll eventually add. They're supposed to be excellent.

I have heard and read the same. Passed up on the ps4s for these so hopefully they hold up to expectations. Should have them on Friday. Got a road trip to Zona this month and another to Colorado in December so I needed a legitimate all season tire. ?

 

[IonEX-T]

Oh yeah! I think I saw you talking about bending your rods somewhere, if not here. My bad if you've discussed it already. Glad you're back running well.

Good to know! Yeah I've heard of MAF issues with the K&N, but I figured custom tuning would solve that. And great information to know. I was wondering what all was necessary with the W1 upgrade, and figured at the very least intercooler and downpipe, and probably intake too. Gives me more hope for my build one day! I am strongly considering going W1 for the improved mid-top end, and going through DRob for tuning. My concern would be rods since I have a hatchback, but there are others who have had success with their builds without upgrading rods (on hatchbacks).
I can get somewhat decent 93 octane fuel here, but e85 is upwards of 35 minutes away from where I live.

Would definitely recommend W1 or other big turbo. It allows you to utilize the CVT perfectly with L mode. It will hold it right at 6000-6200 rpm right at peak power for the W1. Although I'm not sure if hatchbacks have L mode. I still think the main concern would be the CVT reliability at that power level but rods are not out of the question.

 

[rwk226]

Would definitely recommend W1 or other big turbo. It allows you to utilize the CVT perfectly with L mode. It will hold it right at 6000-6200 rpm right at peak power for the W1. Although I'm not sure if hatchbacks have L mode. I still think the main concern would be the CVT reliability at that power level but rods are not out of the question.

Oh yes I have the L mode. I have regular Drive, S, and L modes. No paddles sadly. But this sounds good for roll racing and stuff. Silver Surfer (Red Tornado now) has some videos on Sam CarLegion's YT Channel showing just how effective W1 can be at drag racing, but I think his car is a freak example. Point is, if his CVT can handle dozens of drag races and related, I think it would hold up fine for me as a daily driver. His motor has stronger rods though, but my goal is 300whp, 3,000lb curb weight with me and a full tank of gas, and 30+mpg.

 

[DurinsBane]

Vehicle: 2018 Civic SI coupe

Total tuned time: 1.5 months

Tuned miles driven: ~700 miles

Tuning device(s) used: Hondata Flashpro

Tunes used: Hondata +6 via sport, optimized turbo response, disable rev hang

Fuel used: 93 Ultra

Additional related mods: PRL race CAI, PRL catted down pipe + Front pipe

Problems/issues: None so far

Driving style: Normally conservative with periodic spirited driving but since doing the tune and some bolt ons have been driving a bit more aggressive.

Tuning experience notes: This is my first time tuning and/or working on a car. Just put the Downpipe+front pipe on yesterday.

Update:
Total tuned time: ~3 months

Tuned miles driven: ~2500 miles

Tuning device(s) used: Hondata Flashpro

Tunes used: Hondata +6 via sport, optimized turbo response, disable rev hang, improve throttle response

Fuel used: 93 Ultra

Additional related mods: PRL race CAI, PRL catted down pipe + Front pipe, '20 CTR shift assembly swap with Acuity add ons and poco knob, Acuity pedal relocator, acuity cable bushings, whitleline rmm insert.

Problems/issues: some bolts came loose after the rmm insert, I think one still may be missing (see here)

Driving style: was driving a bit more aggressive after the initial upgrades, but have been taking it easier now after the loose bolts

 

[kytos]

Update on this:

Vehicle: 2017 Civic Sport (EUDM) L15BA MT

ECU: 5AN-G23

Gas: 98 RON E5 (Repsol or Shell only) / Repsol 100 Octane at the track

LTFT: -3 / -12

Total tuned time: 42 months

Total tuned mileage: 85.000 Km

Total mileage: 99.000 Km

Tuning device(s) used: Ktuner V1.2

Tunes used: All ktuner basemaps KTuner 21 (never agressive settings), current tune TSP Stage 1 (non-si)

Additional engine mods: Mishimoto Intercooler, 27won CAI, Motul MoCool + pure water + OEM Antifreeze, ACT SMF (ACT organic clutch kit).

Problems/issues: PCV check valve stuck open sometimes, replaced myself. Had problmes with fuel trims topping at -25 sometimes, seemed like a boost leak but never found it and resolved it self (not related to the PCV valve issue).

Driving style: Speedy with aggressive bursts from time to time, never push more than 2 PSI until engine is warm and never wot until ECT is 80ºC for a few minutes. Try to not use WOT under 3000 RPM, specially in higher gears. I track the car from time to time and use to do spirited drives on mountain roads. Daily driven to work in 5km trips and more.

Here is my update:
Recently installed 27won W1 Turbo + RaceMAF + Downpipe + InletPipe and a Mfactory LSD. Just being e-tuned by Drob.

Vehicle: 2017 Civic Sport (EUDM) L15BA MT

ECU: 5AN-G23

Gas: 98 RON E5 (Repsol or Shell only) / Repsol 100 Octane at the track

LTFT: -3 / -5 (Still tuning in Rev4)

Total tuned time: 44 months

Total tuned mileage: 91.000 Km

Total mileage: 105.000 Km

Tuning device(s) used: Ktuner V1.2

Tunes used: All ktuner basemaps KTuner 21 (never agressive settings), TSP Stage 1 (non-si), currently custom e-tuned by Derek Robinson at IMW. (still in the tuning process)

Additional engine mods: Mishimoto Intercooler, 27won CAI, 27won W1 turbo, 27won catted Downpipe, 27won Inlet Pipe, 27won Race MAF, Motul MoCool + pure water + OEM Antifreeze, ACT SMF (ACT organic clutch kit).

Transmission mods: MFactory Helical Limited Slip Differential + Amsoil MTF.

Problems/issues: PCV check valve stuck open sometimes, replaced myself. Had problmes with fuel trims topping at -25 sometimes, seemed like a boost leak but never found it and resolved it self (not related to the PCV valve issue).

Driving style: Speedy with aggressive bursts from time to time, never push more than 2 PSI until engine is warm and never wot until ECT is 80ºC for a few minutes. Try to not use WOT under 3000 RPM, specially in higher gears. I track the car from time to time and use to do spirited drives on mountain roads. Daily driven.

Pictures:

 

[gtman]

Kytos... nice build. What kind of power are you hoping for with the tune?

 

[kytos]

Kytos... nice build. What kind of power are you hoping for with the tune?

Thanks GTman
Likely 280whp or what the dyno say at 24psi with our 98 RON gasoline. It pulls nicely to the redline with zero knock control rise already and the tune is not finished yet. I will ask for multi boost map to lower the boost to like 20 psi at the track. Let's see how it ends, it's already a complete different car chassis and engine wise.

 

[charleswrivers]

Update from original post #24… and #804 from last year and #2457 from this year. Sold the car for more than I paid for it after 4 years of ownership as of this month and a shade over 41k miles. I daily drove the 24.5# TSP stage 1 map for 3 years and the TSP Stage 1+ on the hottest map (25-26#… I can’t remember) for the last 3 months or so. Car was on the stock clutch w/o issue:

Vehicle: 2018 Si sedan

Total tuned time: 3.8 years. All but the first 2 months of the car’s life.

Total tuned mileage: 39,000 Car sold at 41,2XX miles.

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V2 initially which was traded for a V1.2 to do some wireless Tunerview fun earlier last year.

Tunes used: Ktuner 21 (about a month) Ktuner 23# (a couple months, basemap modified to only reach 21# until 4000 RPM), Ktuner 23# basemap (this time with additional timing added after 4000 RPM), TSP Stage 1 since 7/31/18 (24.5# map in map 1 position so it is the only map I run) for 30,000 over that 3 year period. Last few months we’re on an inverted version of TSP Stage 1 plus.

Additional engine mods: PRL silicone hose/Green Filter (The “PRL Stage 1”)

Fuel used: 93 octane, not brand specific. Typically fill up on base, sometimes at one of a couple gas stations out in town.

Problems/issues: None (powertrain). I did bring in the car and have the A/C looked at and they ended up pulling and replacing the Freon as there was some cabin noise back in April ‘19. I went back to the dealer around February ‘20 so they could sort out some interior rattles. I did an early change to Amsoil MTF during the second year of owning the car... the same as I did with my ‘02 RSX Type S and ‘15 Si. Each ones shifting performance drastically improved. Compressor was replaced before my B2B warranty expired based on noting a small refrigerant oil leak at its shaft. I’ve had intermittent issues with my air conditioning ducting motors hitting dead spots and clicking around like a Keebler elf typing on a typewriting here and there, but I haven’t done anything about it yet. It comes and goes and hasn’t driven me crazy yet and my crazy tearing-apart-cars-energy has been dedicated to other things.

Driving style: Generally low speed city to <55 MPH highway driving. Some stop and go going on/off base. Lots of WOT acceleration and quick cornering, holding momentum. Car is almost always in sport mode. An occasional NLS. No use of antilag/launch control. I will however do a mild street launch now and then. No high speed runs... car has never seen triple digit speeds (still!). Occasionally some interstate driving (less than 3000 miles total).

Average trip in the car is probably 10 miles to/from work. Car is driven pretty hard on its short trips. I get low to mid-30s for tank averages w/o trying. I use 0w-20 Castrol Magnetec or whatever you call it... as it’s $16-18/jug on subscribe and save and change around 20% on the MM (around 7000 miles). Been using the stuff for years... it’s cheap and none of the 3 vehicles that use it complain. I use Fram Ultra Synthetic oil filters, also on S&S (reviewed good on BITOG years ago) every other change per the MM. Changed brake fluid at 2-2.5 years as it popped on the MM and was right before the Dragon meet that got cancelled in early ‘20. Stock Goodyear summers were replaced at 4-5/32s with some wicked feathering/shredding at their sidewalks and replaced with some highly rated General G-Max RSs that are a nice all around summer tire earlier this year. They supposedly have good life, definitely with good wet traction from what I’ve experienced and with a relatively low price tag. They’re quieter than the outgoing Goodyear’s, but given those tires condition, it was to be expected. I’d say they’re neither quiet or noisy… just kinda of there. Honestly, I was so impressed with them at such a cheap price, I put a set on the 300zx which has 350z 18s on it. In my few months with them, I really thought they were great… especially in wet conditions and would highly recommend them for a daily driver.

No evidence of fuel dilution by smell or rising oil level.

Car is not abused but driven hard and enjoyed.

I almost got rid of the car about 6 months ago or so on a whim for a CTS V-Sport that was in so-so shape, despite being a CPO and gave up on the deal. The car was priced well and they offered me 21k for the Si I paid maybe 23.5k or so for 3 years before t that.

On a whim, I sent in for an appraisal to CarMax over the weekend when I was taking a mini-vacation with the fam and they came back with $25.2k. Took the car in last night and they honored the appraisal. I was shocked they’d essentially give me MSRP back for a 4 year old, 41k mile car… and couldn’t turn it down. I was willing to part with it for as low as $18k but finning for 20k when I was looking my at the CTS-V Sport (they offered me 21k actually… though i

With my 300zx and old truck mostly sitting unused and a recent push for me to find something else to drive anyways (I like changing vehicles every 3 or so years to just try something new) I figured getting all my money back out of the car and driving what I have and waiting out this price thing for a couple of years would be a good move. No plans on getting something else soon… I’ll just slum it in my twin turbo for awhile. ?

Great car. Had I not had 3 other vehicles in a household with 2 drivers, not been looking to trade out for a while and, well, loved the car, I probably wouldn’t have traded. I just don’t get emotionally attached to things like I did in my teens and 20s. It was a little sad to give her one last pat and walk away. My savings account balance more than doubling is a good consolation prize however. I’ll probably do some big house projects and some further Z-car stuff with a bit of the proceeds until the next car comes around.

 

[gtman]

Charles, thanks for the post. All those tuning experience details really help a lot.

 

[charleswrivers]

I’ve been car foruming since the 90s and I’ll tell you… one of the best things about having that Civic was happening across this forum. 9thgen forums… z31… z32… twin turbo net… clubrsx… and any other I’ve been a member of… none of them compare this this group.

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