The Tuned CivicX Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models)

[Ap1 George]

Update 03/2021

Vehicle: 2017 Civic sport hatch 6MT

Total tuned time: 18 months

Tuned miles driven: 34,000

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V2

Tunes used: TSP Stage 1 from 35,000 to 50 ish k miles, Pure450 pump 91/E30 flex fuel from 55,000 to current 74,xxx miles

Fuel used: 91 gasoline, E30 Flex

Additional related mods: PRL Cobra Race MAF, RV6 Downpipe and Frontpipe, PLM intercooler

Problems/issues: None

Driving style: At least 1 multi gear pull every time I drive the car.

Sponsored

 

[marcopolo]

Vehicle: 2020 Civic Si

Total tuned time: 9 months

Total tuned mileage: 7,000 miles

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V1.2

Tunes used: TSP Stage 1 for 2k miles, Phearable 1.5 for 5k miles - 90% driving on map 2

Fuel used: Chevron 93

Additional engine mods: None

Problems/issues: None

Driving style: Semi-aggressive driving style. Not real easy on the car, but don't abuse it. Mix of city/hwy with regular spirited driving on country roads with twists and turns.

Tuning experience notes: 2nd Civic using Ktuner.

 

[3sumInMyHatch]

Vehicle: 2019 Honda Civic Hatchback sport CVT (owned since November 2019)



Total Tuned Time: since December 2019 (1 year and 3 months)



Total Mileage: just hit 7k last week



Tuning Device: hondata CARB



Tunes used: Hondata +6 psi base map for a year on 91 octane. Few days ago I tried testing out a bit more torque and getting rid of knock control but problems occurred later that day (full explanation below).


Engine mods: at first had the stage 1 PRL intake (silicone hose replacement paired with a AEM Dryflow filter) then switched to a Mishimoto Short Ram about two months ago.


Problems/Issues: three days ago i experienced my RPMs shoot up but my car wouldn’t go anywhere until it would drop back down around 2k-3k and catch into gear (i know it’s a CVT but you know what i mean). Took it into Honda yesterday and found out that I had a damaged valve body within the transmission. I will admit that three days ago I did eliminate the knock control and increased the torque To 270Nm (just under 200ft lbs) but thought it was a bit much so I returned to the normal +6 base map. Later that night, I started experiencing those problems. Funny thing is that I only test drove it like that for about 20 minutes and did a few pulls. So honestly I think it was just those unlucky 20 minutes that damaged the car. However, prior to that, the car ran fine with the +6 base map tune along with my two different intakes.

driving style: pretty moderate driving in city streets but would be in sport mode most of the time. Only “aggressive” driving would be on the freeway but wouldn’t take it often.

I honestly don’t really know if it was the fact that I’ve been running the tune for a whole year straight along with my PRL stage 1 intake and then my newly added mishimoto intake or if it was those 20 minutes of hell that I put the CVT through (Probably the latter of the two) so please any feedback would be great! Honestly might run stock or the +3psi base map from now on. Maybe the +6psi basemap again without touching the torque and knock control. but will definitely be driving more conservatively. SO CVT OWNERS PLEASE BE CAUTIOUS.

 

[gtman]

The CVT can easily handle 200 lb/ft...

Keep in mind that 250nm number used on the Hondata CVT tq table is more torque than you think. Hondata is supposedly using their own ecu torque calculation. It's not the straightforward math you'd assume.

We had this discussion years ago at the forum and Hondata wasn't very open to discussing the calculation formula used or the actual numbers in lb/ft.

Btw, when you raised the torque limit, I hope you only increased it above 4000 rpm for safety reasons.

The basic keys to CVT safety are keeping torque subdued a bit below 3500-4000 rpm and NEVER brake launching.

There actually was a big thread where Hondata destroyed a CVT and "found the CVT's power limit" Unfortunately, they never said what those power limit numbers were.

 

[3sumInMyHatch]

The CVT can easily handle 200 lb/ft...

Keep in mind that 250nm number used on the Hondata CVT tq table is more torque than you think. Hondata is supposedly using their own ecu torque calculation. It's not the straightforward math you'd assume.

We had this discussion years ago at the forum and Hondata wasn't very open to discussing the calculation formula used or the actual numbers in lb/ft.

Btw, when you raised the torque limit, I hope you only increased it above 4000 rpm for safety reasons.

There actually was a big thread where Hondata destroyed a CVT and "found the CVT's power limit" Unfortunately, they never said what those power limit numbers were.

The basic keys to CVT safety are keeping torque subdued a bit below 3500-4000 rpm and NEVER brake launching.

If I’m being completely honest, I edited the torque up to 270Nm exactly at 3000RPM. So maybe that was too low i guess. And I would never do brake launches in my car. I would always go full throttle once I would hit above the 3000RPM mark while moving.

and yeah man! Hondata really is silent when it comes to the topic of max torque. It’s kinda funny lol. However, I did not know that they use their own calculations when it comes to the conversion of Nm to Ft lbs. so thanks for that info!

People are gonna hate me for this lol but luckily, my valve body is being replaced under warranty. However, I do know one of the service managers there, the master tech who currently works on my car and my uncle was a dealer there for the longest time until he passed away a few months ago. So you could say I have a little bit of pull at my local Honda dealership Considering my family and I have bought every car we have owned from there since the late 90s lol. So, I cannot promise that anyone else will have the same experience and be covered under warranty if they find themselves in this situation.

I’m not saying don’t tune your cars y’all. However just be cautious, do some research and please make sure you know what you’re doing. I just got curious one day, thought I did enough research and then ended up messing up my car. I’ll probably just run one of the base maps and not touch any tables or anything (pretty traumatized from this experience lol). Nothing more embarrassing than breaking down at a stop sign and revving up your RPMs thinking you’ll go forward but not moving anywhere smh that being said, this has been a crazy learning experience. Personally, I got lucky. So have fun and good luck y’all!

 

[TPDxSI]

Vehicle: 2018 Civic SI Coupe

Total tuned time: Just over 2 months (Jan 1, 2020)

Tuned miles driven: 1,800-2,000

Tuning device(s) used: Ktuner v1.2

Tunes used: Phearable 1.5 (21 psi)

Fuel used: Shell 93

Additional related mods: PRL cai, Invidia R400 catback

Problems/issues: None so far *knocks on wood*

Driving style: Mostly casual daily driving, with occasional highway pulls/backroad fun

Tuning experience notes: Have had a great experience with the Ktuner and Phearable tune thusfar. Had a hiccup during the initial install due to a weak battery, but that wasn't the fault of the tuner or tune. Once installed the feedback was instant and feels like OEM, just quicker. Car isn't uncomfortable at all. If you were a passenger, you wouldn't know it was tuned until the driver got on it. Would recommend to anyone.

Instagram: TPDxSI

 

[Kenaz]

Vehicle: 2017 Honda Civic Sport (CVT)

Total tuned time: 5 Days so far.

Total tuned mileage: 900 Miles

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V2

Tunes used: Ktuner Stage 1 (First Tune), Phearable 1.5T (Now)

Fuel used: BP (93)

Additional engine mods: Mishimoto CAI

Problems/issues: None

Driving style: Normal Driving, with a little speeding here and there.

Tuning experience notes: 1st time tuning. Loving it so far.

 

[gtman]

Thanks for adding your car. That Phearable tune is incredible.

 

[Kenaz]

Thanks for adding your car. That Phearable tune is incredible.

Oh yes for sure, feels like a completely different car!

 

[gtman]

Oh yes for sure, feels like a completely different car!

Yep. I know people who have never tuned sometimes say "how much different could it feel?". But I don't think it's a huge exaggeration to say that it almost feels like a small V6 when you put your foot into it. And you still get econobox type mpgs when you're just cruising.

 

[Kenaz]

Yep. I know people who have never tuned sometimes say "how much different could it feel?". But I don't think it's a huge exaggeration to say that it almost feels like a small V6 when you put your foot into it. And you still get econobox type mpgs when you're just cruising.

Oh yeah. I was one of the people afraid of tuning at first, I currently have over 111,000+ miles on the car, only owner and I used to feel like the stock was fast enough for me but after the tune, it’s definitely woken up the “hidden” power lol. And also after going through you thread that you have here it gave me the confidence that nothing would go wrong, unless you know, you abuse it lol.

 

[86salmon]

Vehicle: 2018 Si sedan

Total tuned time: 18 months

Total tuned mileage: 18,000+ miles

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V1.2

Tunes used: KTuner 19/23, d1zguy custom tune, TSP Stage 1 map 3 (very rarely in sport mode), custom street tune by local tuner

currently--- street tune by Drob --- 15psi valet mode map/26psi full send

Fuel used: BP or Sunoco 93

Additional engine mods: BMS intake, PRL intercooler and piping, PRL catted downpipe, MHI TD03 turbo swap

Problems/issues: I want to spend money on a W1 and a downpipe, but probably shouldn't
Otherwise, none

Whelp, got the downpipe and a turbo. No issues so far. Still tuning.

Changed tuners. Drob is doing the etune


Update 7-9-2020

Tuning done! Whoa boy does it pull! Drob is phenomenal to work with. Complete and total professional. Added a data log of a 3rd gear pull to this post

Will further update after more time is spent on current tune

Driving style: Like a grandma in town. Pulls occasionally on on ramps

Update


One year with MHI TD03 still humming along

Still on 0w-20 ?
Have Blackstone kit and Liqui Moly 5w-30 on standby

Added TIP and race MAF

While getting logs for new tune, added low end torque killed stock clutch ?

Have since added EXEDY stage 2 clutch and lightweight flywheel. Some chatter but not too terrible considering it's unsprung 3 puck cerametallic


Drob tune is in and running well

26k miles tuned

 

[fabrizzio71]

EDITED 4/05/22

Vehicle: 2018 Civic Si coupe

Total tuned time: 22 months (tuned at 48,000)

Total tuned mileage: 42,000 miles

Tuning device(s) used: K tuner v1.2

Tunes used: Ktuner factory base tune and modified 19.5psi(less aggressive boost ramp), TSP stage 1 (only use maps 1 and 2), TSP STAGE 1+

Fuel used: Shell 93, BP 93 occasionally will use Exxon or Citgo. Then Sheetz 93 as they are the only E85 supplier near me. I have been adding on occasion .75 gallons of E85 to make an E15 mixture. This is to increase the knock resistance.

Additional engine mods: AEM drop in dry filter, 27won intercooler. RV6 flywheel and Type R clutch and pressure plate.

Problems/issues: Clutch blew up at 88k. Pressure plate side of clutch disc separated from rivets-little to no warning, was a catastrophic failure leaving car un-drivable. Also, it was found that my stock flywheel had lateral(side to side play) and was definitely wobbling. So, some of the weird clattering, clunking sounds I thought were axle/CV boot related was probably from that.

Driving style: I drive fast but I don’t beat on the car. For example, I’ve never launched it and don’t plan to. I don’t use full throttle that often-only when I’m intentionally having fun on a back road.

Tuning experience notes: This was my first time tuning. I was very hesitant to do anything due to clutch concerns and I wanted to wait until the warranty was over. I caved 10,000 miles before warranty was up. I’m glad I did, tuning really makes the car more enjoyable to drive. It has made me realize that driving with any semblance of normal speed between gears with rev hang puts a lot of stress on the clutch. That being said, without rev hang, I’ve now found the mechanical limits of the heavy factory flywheel-at the top of 1st and 2nd gear full throttle the flywheel has so much inertia, if you were to wait for the revs to drop on their own before letting out clutch, it would be a good 2-3 seconds. My fuel economy can be worse if in the gas but I can still get easily get over 40mpg when I want. It is easier to get worse economy with full throttle than stock.

TSP STAGE 1+: I have some observations I wanted to share. I observe that compared to the original TSP tune, there is a difference in how how much vacuum and/or how quickly the engine goes into vacuum when off throttle and with the clutch pressed. I believe this is what people refer to when they say it shifts smoother. I notice a little difference, but honestly I drove the original TSP tune smoothly as well. It is a matter of learning the tune and adjusting how you shift to match what the car is doing.

Yes, I do feel the power is more linear and pulls harder up top. I have only been on tune 2. I notice a difference both in normal mode which is where I normally drive, and in sport mode.

Fuel trims and Knock Control- On my first tank, I preemptively made an E15 mixture by putting in .75 gallons of E85. I normally use Shell 93, but supplemented with Sheetz for the E85 and the rest of their 93. My first tank I never saw above .49 knock control. My next tank, I just used 93. Knock control would go up to .52 when flooring it with ambient temps between 30-60 and intake temps between 60-100. This was on the 19.5 tune. That being said, on original TSP knock control would go up to .62 when it was warm enough on a certain stretch of road. On that same stretch, I haven't seen above .52 thus far. For my next tank I have supplemented some E85 again and got on it hard today. Knock control stayed at .49.

Fuel trims have been around +3.0 LTFT with the ambient temps between 30-50. Lately it has been getting into the 60's and up to 70 and LTFT has gone down to +1 and 0 several times.

The increased idle speed to 800 is wonderful.

 

[Mike2020si]

Vehicle: 2020 Civic SI Sedan

Total tuned time: 2 months

Tuned miles driven: 8k-11k

Tuning device(s) used: Ktuner v2

Tunes used: TSP Stage 1 (MAP 1 mostly, MAP 2 sometimes, never map 3 (scary boost levels lol)

Fuel used: Shell 91

Additional related mods: type r shift assembly, Acuity rocker, acuity base bushings, acuity shifter cables, acuity centering spring, stock shift knob. That’s it.

Problems/issues: Having a jerking/bog issue in traffic when shifting at lower rpms. New issue as of a few days ago when I flashed TSP stage 1 check out my other posts, besides that tune is amazing - I’ve heard of others having the same problem.

Driving style: Lots of miles for the amount of time I’ve had the car. I drive chill on the street but hard in the canyon.

Tuning experience notes: Having a weird jerk issue with TSP stage 1, car feels amazing when it doesn’t do this. Nothing major. Please see my other posts, could just be me getting used to no rev hang.

Instagram: ecomod3

 

[R4TED-R]

Vehicle: 2019 Honda Civic Type R

Total tuned time: 1 Day 6 Hr Session

Total mileage on tune: 1500 Miles

Tuning device(s) used: MainLine ProHub DynoLog. Hondata Flash Pro Software

Tunes used: Hondata Flash Pro Custom Tune with Pump (93) & (E20) Blend Boost by gear

Fuel used: Shell (93) & Thornton's (E85)

Additional engine mods: PRL Inlet Turbo Pipe, PRL HV Intake, PRL Intercooler, PRL Intercooler Hoses, PRL Race Downpipe, Mishimoto Catch Can, Remus exhaust, Remus mid pipe, Remus electronic value remote, Siri Moto Flex Fuel Kit. "Next setup is Hondata Fuel System and PRL P600 Turbo"

Problems/issues: None

Driving style: Weekend grocery getter, track race car " Circuit/Autocross

Tuning experience notes: Custom Remote tune with "RedStartMotorsports" PEPO" so far so good with Pump (93) & (E20). Car makes over 400 easily with (E20) with torque and HP being neck to neck.