SI: Ktuner Calibrations

[d1zguy]

Hi All,

Thought I would start this and upload calibrations for input and just general conversation.

I've started of with Starter 19.5 base tune.

With following changes

1. Setup BBG - 1st, 2nd-6th.

• Sport mode is running stock PSI until after 4000 RPM the values for boost found in the base tune take over with a smooth curve. (this should yield a more linear N/A engine feel)
  
  • 
    BBG 2nd - 6th
    
    
  • Stock 19.5 KTUNER base map boost
  • 

2. IAT corrections per ktuner for more stable knock control

• KTuner said: ↑
  Yes. Honda deliberately left knock control to handle intake air temperature changes, rather than pulling a standard amount of timing like they've done on previous platforms. You can actually set this up, as I have, or if you're working with Vit or other tuners they've likely already done it for you.
  
  With a tune file open find Ignition Corrections in the list on the left. Hit the plus to expand and find IAT Ignition. Here's how I have mine set for both load settings, and we've seen some extreme temperatures this year here in Arizona, so I'm taking full advantage. My IATs have been around 160 on the Si lately in the afternoon.
  
  IAT(F) 95 122 167 194 212
  Corr 0 1 1.5 2 3
  
  My knock control stays fairly steady between .48 and .56 and I beat the car up pretty badly on a regular basis... for testing purposes, of course.
  
  Also, Hello.

3. Rev-hang defeat
4. All quick adjustments stock with boost ramp-up disabled
5. Anti-lag set at 3500 RPM with -6.5 degrees pulled (Builds about 7PSI of boost) 2step at 4000rpm
6. NLS set at 4350RPM
7. Early Spool
8. Target 15.1 afr low load at ECT >176c
9. 800 RPM idle
7. All other settings are same as the base 19.5 ktuner tune


Building this tune to go on the track (circuit or auto-x not drag) with. Was not a fan of the stock tune (throttle pullback) or any of the starter tunes with the massive tq peaks at 3000-4000 rpm especially on my weak stock clutch. Don't like the feel of a car getting SLOWER or not increasing the rate of acceleration as the rpm's increase

Another observation is that the factory base tune compared to the 19.5 starter doesn't target what is on the boost tables. The factory tune I am assuming still has throttle pull back enabled to hit a certain amount of torque and the starter 19.5 takes that away. As I even with the factory base calibration and boost ramp up control turned off was never able to hit 19.5 PSI. So with the 19.5 base tune you are running more power and a couple more PSI over factory due to the fact this is turned off in the backend by these starter maps. Ktuner and others can chime in if this is the case or not.

You can alternatively copy the BBG tables and run them on any manual or CVT 10th gen

View attachment 81995

• 01/29/2018 - Made changes to BBG 1st-6th gear after driving feedback
• 02/09/2018 - same psi in normal and sport, slight PSI change at 3500RPM, +early spool +15.1afr at >176c low load. 800rpm idle

 

[250GTCalifornia]

Thanks for the share. I like what you've done with the tune. I had a couple questions..

I'm looking through your BBG tables and I'm noticed you had the same table for every gear.

Wouldn't they be different? Especially gears 1, 5 and 6? I read there were people using KTuner 19/23 that were slipping on stock clutches on the higher gears, because there was too much boost on low RPMs, high gears. Do you feel that your BBG tables are sufficient in gears 5 and 6?

KTuner had an example of the BBG for first gear:

Is there a particular reason you didn't use that for the first gear BBG?

 

[d1zguy]

I actually did.

If you open up the file on KTUNER and view the 1st gear BBG map you will see it is lower than all the others. The stock PSI values are okay for all other gears at low RPM. What is making people's clutch slip is the Ktuner basemaps commanding 19.5 PSI from 3000 on up. While my map is just at 15PSI (stock). Which you can see in the 3D map snapshots I provided above.

If you wanted the most power you could command 19.5 from 4000RPM on up. But then you'll get this sudden burst of power. Which is why I've build the BBG map to ramp up to 19.5 and so far it feels great (the car actually goes faster as speed and RPM increase instead of the other way around - since you don't get a peaky tq figure that lasts for only a few hundred rpms and slips your clutch.

 

[simon_lefisch]

I actually did.

If you open up the file on KTUNER and view the 1st gear BBG map you will see it is lower than all the others. The stock PSI values are okay for all other gears at low RPM. What is making people's clutch slip is the Ktuner basemaps commanding 19.5 PSI from 3000 on up. While my map is just at 15PSI (stock). Which you can see in the 3D map snapshots I provided above.

If you wanted the most power you could command 19.5 from 4000RPM on up. But then you'll get this sudden burst of power. Which is why I've build the BBG map to ramp up to 19.5 and so far it feels great (the car actually goes faster as speed and RPM increase instead of the other way around - since you don't get a peaky tq figure that lasts for only a few hundred rpms and slips your clutch.

Would you mind posting a screen shot of your 1st/2nd BBG table? I have a CVT and have adjusted my BBG to relieve stress on the transmission, but would like to see what others have theirs set as a reference/comparison.

 

[250GTCalifornia]

I actually did.

If you open up the file on KTUNER and view the 1st gear BBG map you will see it is lower than all the others. The stock PSI values are okay for all other gears at low RPM. What is making people's clutch slip is the Ktuner basemaps commanding 19.5 PSI from 3000 on up. While my map is just at 15PSI (stock). Which you can see in the 3D map snapshots I provided above.

If you wanted the most power you could command 19.5 from 4000RPM on up. But then you'll get this sudden burst of power. Which is why I've build the BBG map to ramp up to 19.5 and so far it feels great (the car actually goes faster as speed and RPM increase instead of the other way around - since you don't get a peaky tq figure that lasts for only a few hundred rpms and slips your clutch.

Sorry!!

You are correct, in that you used two separate tables. one table for the first gear and another table for the rest. What I wanted to point out was whether the same table for second gear was sufficient to stop the clutch slip @ low RPM on the higher gears.

By the way, how do we know 15 PSI is stock? Was that by looking at the factory base calibration map from KTuner?

Say, at 5th or 6th gear @ 2000 - 2900 RPM. How much boost would be output? I guess that would depend on throttle position, no? I wonder if the boost is output at all if you're just cruising around on 5th or 6th gear in 2500 RPM on the highway.

Anyways, thanks a lot for sharing.

 

[d1zguy]

Yes, it was by looking at the factory base calibration map.

 

[d1zguy]

Would you mind posting a screen shot of your 1st/2nd BBG table? I have a CVT and have adjusted my BBG to relieve stress on the transmission, but would like to see what others have theirs set as a reference/comparison.

You can download my calibration and have a look at it yourself. easier to compare

 

[d1zguy]

Sorry!!

You are correct, in that you used two separate tables. one table for the first gear and another table for the rest. What I wanted to point out was whether the same table for second gear was sufficient to stop the clutch slip @ low RPM on the higher gears.

By the way, how do we know 15 PSI is stock? Was that by looking at the factory base calibration map from KTuner?

Say, at 5th or 6th gear @ 2000 - 2900 RPM. How much boost would be output? I guess that would depend on throttle position, no? I wonder if the boost is output at all if you're just cruising around on 5th or 6th gear in 2500 RPM on the highway.

Anyways, thanks a lot for sharing.

There needs to be load for the car to start building boost. cruising around you should be in vacuum as shown in the boost gauge on a SI or on Ktuner. I'm not seeing anything more than 4 before 2600rpm. But is it throttle dependent. if you go WOT the car with boost ramp up disabled will target the boost set in the BBG maps immediately. There is still a delay because of physics but it makes the turbo act more like an old school spring type blow off valve just that it being electric it's like having many spring type blow off valves for each RPM cell and more accurate than a vacuum based diaphragm on an traditional blow off valve

 

[simon_lefisch]

You can download my calibration and have a look at it yourself. easier to compare

I actually tried to open it in KTuner but nothing showed up. The file didn’t even open.

 

[charleswrivers]

You've motivated me to make something similar... lower boost levels in the 2500-4000 range to eliminate the torque peak, put less stress on the motor/clutch and do a ramp up from there. I've been running a 19.5/21 for a month and been happy bit wanted something a little more linear myself. I haven't had any slip but having power hang in there a bit better could be had by a ramp up by a couple pounds after 4k and maybe even a slight reduction on my 21 map to make the car gain more linearity and pull harder, the harder you push it.

I posted it up on a tuning thread awhile back but this was essentially the response I was looking for.

The old lady (who drives the car much more than me actually) said if I wanted to give it another bump, go for it. I think it'd make the car feel faster and reward your driving it hard... while the actually strain would be markedly less.

 

[d1zguy]

I actually tried to open it in KTuner but nothing showed up. The file didn’t even open.

Extract the tune first. You are downloading a .zip file archive.

 

[d1zguy]

You've motivated me to make something similar... lower boost levels in the 2500-4000 range to eliminate the torque peak, put less stress on the motor/clutch and do a ramp up from there. I've been running a 19.5/21 for a month and been happy bit wanted something a little more linear myself. I haven't had any slip but having power hang in there a bit better could be had by a ramp up by a couple pounds after 4k and maybe even a slight reduction on my 21 map to make the car gain more linearity and pull harder, the harder you push it.

I posted it up on a tuning thread awhile back but this was essentially the response I was looking for.

The old lady (who drives the car much more than me actually) said if I wanted to give it another bump, go for it. I think it'd make the car feel faster and reward your driving it hard... while the actually strain would be markedly less.

Yea, go for it. Just flash the cal here and you'll be set.

 

[250GTCalifornia]

Extract the tune first. You are downloading a .zip file archive.

Actually, I faced a situation in reverse. I wanted to take a look at CVT BBG configs, but apparently, CVT users can't open manual configs and manual users can't open CVT configs.

 

[simon_lefisch]

Extract the tune first. You are downloading a .zip file archive.

Mono know how to open a zip file. KTuner is blank when opening the file inside of it. I’ve had this prob before with other files. Not sure why it won’t open.

 

[d1zguy]

Actually, I faced a situation in reverse. I wanted to take a look at CVT BBG configs, but apparently, CVT users can't open manual configs and manual users can't open CVT configs.

I have another post like this for when I had my CVT car

https://www.civicx.com/threads/ktuner-share-files.14482/

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