2020 CIVIC SI SEDAN 12-14psi at 100% throttle, but at 75%-80% 17psi-18psi?

RoB y4h3ll

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Hey guys, I just received my 2020 civic SI sedan on the 20th of December. Its a beauty. I broke it in within 52 hours lol.(In-town miles)
So, for the past 3-4 days I have noticed my turbo only producing about 12-14 psi in 2nd gear and up, when at full throttle. When I give it no more than 75% or even 80% throttle I see 16-17 psi all day. I can feel a slight power difference between all or partial throttle. I have not modded anything on the car except switching out the stock intake panel filter for a K&N. Immediately after this I felt a surprisingly more sensitive throttle. I took it to the dealer yesterday after giving up on the whole self research thing for this issue since its so new with no results. They test drove the car and said it seemed fine for them.. and for some reason it was actually pushing 15-16 psi. ... so of course when trying to show the dealership my problems it wants to act right.... or maybe he wasn't putting his foot in it all the way. That day it was about 70 degrees out side and a little humid.

It's almost like the car is governing how much horse power its allowed to make and when it hits that mark its down tuning the turbo. The car isn't running choppy one bit. I've never heard of any stock car governing horse power before and if this is a thing .... bye bye warranty, hello k-tuner v2

Any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.



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longthaitran91

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The amount of psi our car’s turbo will push will vary based on temperature, humidity, air quality, and elevation. I’ve had days where my car would stay at 16 psi. With my ktuner I’m at 24 psi. But my car likes to stay at 22-23 psi a lot. Sometimes 24 does come along. Just attach a large oxygen tank to the intake and you’ll definitely feel the boost come ;)
 

fabrizzio71

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It’s not just you. My 2018 Si does the same thing, I get more boost at 75% throttle than with the pedal pegged to the floor. Everyone I’ve talked to on here says it’s normal, that it’s about meeting torque targets. I still feel that the power is less though. I live up a mountain and at 1700 feet the boost will increase slightly compared to ground level, so I know it is adjusting based on altitude/air density. I still don’t understand why the stock tune torque table would decrease boost between 80% and 100% throttle in the same conditions. I’d love to see the stock boost table (not the K tuner or hondata modified stock table). Occasionally I still wonder if there is something wrong with my car. It’s anticlimactic to floor it and get less performance than at 75-85%.
 

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Yes, the computer adjusts all of its perameters in accordance to a torque table.

Remember that the factory tune will not always reward you for "pushing" the car. there are CAFE standards to be met.

When you push your car it can also increase the valve and ignition timing as well as just adding boost.

Again, all of the delay and hesitation that Honda programs into the base tune is to help increase your milage, not put a grin on your face.

I finally tuned my car but chose to keep the boost low. The more agressive valve and ignition timing changes the sound of my engine giving it more "character" and increases its performance by giving it more "grip".

The reduction of "rev hang" and the reduction of delays and hesitations certainly make the tune "worth it".
 
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Modern turbo cars are way more complex then the old ones, peak boost is not a sole indicator of power, manufacturers can get power in more ways then boost hence varying boost levels we see. Adding/removing timing, fuel delivery/timing, cam phasing all play a role. I’m not well versed enough to go into depth on how/why it does do what it does in depth but essentially under wot the car may set cam phasing at x, add timing, lean/richer the fuel mixture thus requiring less boost to make the targeted power. Additionally another reason why manufacturers remove data like this to the public because people complain their car isn’t working right even though it’s working as intended. Like the generic civic getting a dummy boost gauge.
 
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RoB y4h3ll

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I am so glad to hear this is common.. I was getting so mad and discouraged about this at the same time. The dealer parts/maintenance "expert" even told me that I could tune the car to remove these issues I am having, but it will be detected even if if I set things back to stock and unlock... he said that the minute you drive the car in the garage port on the maintenance side of the dealership, the cars pcm/ecu uploads everything "over the air" to honda factory including the amount of cycles the system has been through. My ktuner will be here tomorrow and I like a moron bought the 6 year warranty with an additional 4 year repair warranty/insurance for the car...


One thing I did want to mention for those who DO NOT WANT TO VOID A WARRANTY;
If you want to hear your turbo spoil up and the blow off, just put in a K&N flat panel filter replacing the stock filter.(ITS ONLY $50) It made a HUGE difference in engine noise as well. I truley didnt expect to hear this difference, I always start with a aftermarket panel filter before modding with potential warrenty voiding parts.
 
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RoB y4h3ll

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The amount of psi our car’s turbo will push will vary based on temperature, humidity, air quality, and elevation. I’ve had days where my car would stay at 16 psi. With my ktuner I’m at 24 psi. But my car likes to stay at 22-23 psi a lot. Sometimes 24 does come along. Just attach a large oxygen tank to the intake and you’ll definitely feel the boost come ;)
I was wondering, my brother is big in to modding turbo output the old fashion way. So he suggested that I install a cheap maunal ball and spring turbo controller instead of tuning it since I can remove this undetected at any time. Whats your take on this?
 

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I was wondering, my brother is big in to modding turbo output the old fashion way. So he suggested that I install a cheap maunal ball and spring turbo controller instead of tuning it since I can remove this undetected at any time. Whats your take on this?
No.
 

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The dealer parts/maintenance "expert" even told me that I could tune the car to remove these issues I am having, but it will be detected even if if I set things back to stock and unlock... he said that the minute you drive the car in the garage port on the maintenance side of the dealership, the cars pcm/ecu uploads everything "over the air" to honda factory including the amount of cycles the system has been through.
Sounds like the guy was exaggerating to try to discourage you from tuning.

Do you really think that actually happens every time you take the car in for an oil change or other basic work? I'm not saying the dealer doesn't have the capability, just that I don't think that happens on a regular basis.

Blow an engine or have major drivetrain warranty work and Honda corporate gets involved... then they most likely escalate things. But, the dealer doesn't have the time or reason to routinely scan the ecu of every vehicle that's brought into the shop.
 
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JB4 would be the proper way of fooling the ECU to make more boost, not using a manual boost controller (not that I think you would find one to work with the 10th gen si). You would still see variance as the ECU has a power target and not a boost target, in colder weather with better gas you will hit that power target with less boost than on a hot day, or while running crappy fuel for example. The car runs fairly consistent, so getting a proper ECU tuner is better like Ktuner or Honda Flashpro. (Ktuner is the best for an Si so you made a good choice)
 
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Sounds like the guy was exaggerating to try to discourage you from tuning.

Do you really think that actually happens every time you take the car in for an oil change or other basic work? I'm not saying the dealer doesn't have the capability, just that I don't think that happens on a regular basis.

Blow an engine or have major drivetrain warranty work and Honda corporate gets involved... then they most likely escalate things. But, the dealer doesn't have the time or reason to routinely scan the ecu of every vehicle that's brought into the shop.

This is True... except I have the ONLY 2020 civic si from here to Dallas texas lol.

I am in Tyler texas so for 200 miles that I am aware of... im pretty sure they would likely check on my first visit... but again maybe not? Especially since I have had this talk with the supervisor im thinking.

Now the question is, is the stage 2 20/23 going to blow my engine? Even in the long run? I would assume even up to 100k I would be fine... as long as I dont break anything, my warrenty will still be good.

I dont plan on changing any limiters either. I was just looking for a little more power and to get rid of the horible totally pointless rev hang.. I figure that my clutch is likely to fail around 60k miles if I dont grandma shift it..

Please note that I have not been in a standard for nearly 10 years so I am not really sure how long it will last honestly... I guess what I really want to know is assuming I dont drop the clutch for burn outs or slam gears, well will engine hold up?
 
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I didnt think so. I figured even If I did, the computer would likely just down tune the engine to hit power target I guess.. im new to this whole computer do it for you thing these years.
 
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RoB y4h3ll

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Random and dumb question, Is there a way to K-tune without the dealer finding out? I know they can check how many times the ECU has been cycled but isn't that the same as changing out the battery? If so, I could technically tune it once for a couple of months with out resetting to stock and then tune it later on in its life right? If this is the case, couldn't I just buy a new battery some time around the time when I wanted to tune the car just to have some evidence? I mean if the ECU being cycled is what they are looking for, then how is that grounds for proof? Just saying, if I felt like changing out the battery every month then I should be able to. Lol. ....

P.S I am looking my K-TUNER v2 in the face and I just wanna hook it up so bad.....
 

longthaitran91

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Random and dumb question, Is there a way to K-tune without the dealer finding out? I know they can check how many times the ECU has been cycled but isn't that the same as changing out the battery? If so, I could technically tune it once for a couple of months with out resetting to stock and then tune it later on in its life right? If this is the case, couldn't I just buy a new battery some time around the time when I wanted to tune the car just to have some evidence? I mean if the ECU being cycled is what they are looking for, then how is that grounds for proof? Just saying, if I felt like changing out the battery every month then I should be able to. Lol. ....

P.S I am looking my K-TUNER v2 in the face and I just wanna hook it up so bad.....
It’s really gonna depend on the dealer you go to. Some will care, some won’t care if you’re tuned. Wish I could give a better answer. I think my dealer in round rock Texas hates me. I made them warranty the tire repair air pump because the psi gauge broke and they told me they won’t warranty it again if I kept using it as a primary means as an air kit to fill my tires.
 
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It’s really gonna depend on the dealer you go to. Some will care, some won’t care if you’re tuned. Wish I could give a better answer. I think my dealer in round rock Texas hates me. I made them warranty the tire repair air pump because the psi gauge broke and they told me they won’t warranty it again if I kept using it as a primary means as an air kit to fill my tires.
Lol... that's just stupid for them to restrict your use like that. ... if its in your car, you should be able to use it for a primary... that's like them saying you can't use your cup holders as a primary cup holder.... or your driver side window as your primary. On top of that, what's it matter to them? Its covered by the factory so they still make their money off of that.

Dude, I am only 2 hours from dallas. Small world.
 

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