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Well, we’ve finally done it. We’ve settled forever all internet oil debates. Huzzah.

I installed Swift Spec R right around the time they released for this platform. May 2019. I’ve had them 48k miles at this point. Just had the wheels off for a wheel/tire swap. Shocks still look good.

I haven’t been following closely, but I assume you can still only get the revised part number through the dealership. After that you should be able to do yourself depending on tools and ability. The Hondata instructions aren’t the greatest, but they give the idea. 27Won website says it is 5+...

Dollars to donuts it is failed injectors.

Seems to vary 1.5-1.75 with ball joints. Varies car to car, maybe also shop to shop. Maybe some people have gotten nearer to -2, but I could not get more than -1.78 with ball joints. I think you need coilovers with adjustable camber to go beyond that.

Depends are wheel/tire width and sidewall stiffness also. A true street tire will have a softer sidewall for compliance (with variations between models/brands). The super 200s are stiffer (again with variations). Then how wide of a wheel you are running will matter too. So the GS guys will run...

I had the first opportunity to run the Karcepts bar in an autocross setting. I had it set on 3/3, so 1265in/lbs. 3x stock stiffness. Whoa. That was a lot of bar for me, it turns out. I went from managing understeer to fighting oversteer. I think it may have held me back some because it felt like...

I just did this. Fluid does not come pouring out. It is a pretty slow drip. I had all the clips released and the hose ready to come out. Then broke the connection loose at the caliper, moved the hose up to reduce dripping, tightened the new stainless line to the caliper, routed the stainless...

Got my hands on a Karcepts RSB so I swapped out the 22mm Whiteline today. First chance to test it out will be March 16 up at zMax. The design is really smart. Smooth install and changing the stiffness settings is very easy (though I can’t do it on the ground, need to be up on ramps to have...

I think 17x9 +40 will give you a nice fitment. Post up pics when you get it setup.

Oh yeah, stock ride height you can go nuts. BBK def not needed for autox, but for track yes. Someone on here has the Wunderladen BBK with a 17” Konig wheel. Probably Decagrams. You can search for it, there are pics on here some place.

There is no BBK that will fit with the RPF1 in 17. It’s not (just) the spokes, it is the way the barrel is designed. There just isn’t enough clearance in there, doesn’t matter how much offset you run. I agree with you. I love the way they look when they are fitted up with the 660s. It looks...

That is why I have 17s 😂

They don’t make them in a 265 fitment for 17. You won’t really find anything in a 265 on 17. You are limited to 255. If you want to max out allowed width for the class you’ve got to run an 18 and go 265/35/18. That’s what top drivers at Nats are doing on this chassis. That’s all I’m saying.

You will see people mix tire types from and rear also (e.g. Yoks in front Stones in rear). The nationally competitive Civics in STH run 265/35 squared on 18x9 to max the allowable tire width for the class. You won’t find a good 265 fitment on a 17x9 (RT660 in 255 does have 261.6mm tread width so...

Not to be a downer, but if you are set on the 2.0 NA then I don’t think minor suspension differences are going to matter a whole lot.

I know this isn’t exactly what you are asking, but these look really nice. Haven’t used them myself but have thought about it. https://www.srpracing.com/

Here you go OP...

I DD the Wunderladen Rmm (street) with no issues. Definitely subjective. The only passengers I ever carry are my kids and they never complain about any car related things. Just everything else 😂

17x9 +35. Strut pin plus Whiteline adjustable ball joints. 17x9 +40 would be a better fitment. I had my heart set on RPF1 and they run either +45 or +35 in 17x9. I’d probably do +45 with a 3 or 5 mm spacer if I was doing it again. It’s a bit tight. 😂