Si turbo on non-Si

xjoshuax89

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Si/crv turbo for DD if you don't want more power but want more low end tq.

I went with the w1 for more top end plus put a bit less stress of rods and trans in the lower rpm range.

Having driven a fbo e85 stock turbo and driving my w1 fbo e85 car, I prefer my setup.
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I can’t speak on the turbo alone because I went from stock with ktuner stage 2 to prl cobra cai street maf, rv6 catted downpipe, crv turbo and custom tune. Not done with the tuning process yet, but I can say there’s plenty of juice there for a daily driver.
Thank you for sharing! Kindly share your experience after the tuning process is completed.
I’d get the W1 turbo.
I was interested with W1 turbo but I need to keep low end torque as close to stock as possible with slight increase from 4000-5000 rpm. The car is a daily driver & I rarely touch 5500 rpm even during weekend run with community before COVID-19 limited movement.
Si/crv turbo for DD if you don't want more power but want more low end tq.

I went with the w1 for more top end plus put a bit less stress of rods and trans in the lower rpm range.

Having driven a fbo e85 stock turbo and driving my w1 fbo e85 car, I prefer my setup.
It is a daily driver. Ideally, I should get custom tune to maximize the turbo change but I’m on Hondata Flashpro platform & I don’t know pro tuner familiar with Civic X platform & Hondata Flashpro as good as Derek with KTuner. I cannot afford KTuner until next year so I have to tune the car myself if I do the turbo change this year.

My plan is to tune turbocharger pressure to start spool at around 2250 rpm instead of 1700 rpm, maintain boost below 14 psi before 3000 rpm. I will definitely need to revisit fuel, and ignition.
 
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Thank you for sharing! Kindly share your experience after the tuning process is completed.

I was interested with W1 turbo but I need to keep low end torque as close to stock as possible with slight increase from 4000-5000 rpm. The car is a daily driver & I rarely touch 5500 rpm even during weekend run with community before COVID-19 limited movement.

It is a daily driver. Ideally, I should get custom tune to maximize the turbo change but I’m on Hondata Flashpro platform & I don’t know pro tuner familiar with Civic X platform & Hondata Flashpro as good as Derek with KTuner. I cannot afford KTuner until next year so I have to tune the car myself if I do the turbo change this year.
The W1 can help with keeping the low end torque low while giving you some more juice up top, especially if you get a custom tune. If you can’t afford a custom tune, I would wait until you can get the turbo and custom tune together. Just my two cents.
 

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imho W1 or PRL big turbo upgrade is a little too big for CVT's & won't be able to fully utilise what both can do, TD03 or smaller or an upgraded Si/CRV turbo is just nice for a DD & some spirited driving.
Can't have & want it all in 1 go, there are always pros & cons.
 

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The W1 can help with keeping the low end torque low while giving you some more juice up top, especially if you get a custom tune. If you can’t afford a custom tune, I would wait until you can get the turbo and custom tune together. Just my two cents.
W1 turbo is not ideal for my daily driving. SI/CR-V turbo seems suitable for my daily driving purpose. I can afford custom tune but I cannot afford to switch from Flashpro to KTuner. Derek from IMW is the most trusted tuner for our platform & his preferred platform is KTuner.
imho W1 or PRL big turbo upgrade is a little too big for CVT's & won't be able to fully utilise what both can do, TD03 or smaller or an upgraded Si/CRV turbo is just nice for a DD & some spirited driving.
Can't have & want it all in 1 go, there are always pros & cons.
This is exactly why I'm considering Si/CRV turbo over W1 or PRL big turbo kit.
 
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Well, did the swap last weekend along with the RV6 DP/FP catted combo with ceramic coating I had laying around.It took me like 10 hours to get everything done.
The install was pretty straightforward. I removed the turbo TIP and sprayed PB blaster the night before and everything came off smoothly.

Some recommendations:
Don't lose any bolts/screws ?,
Breaker bar+PB Blaster = best combo ever
Pinch clamps (two at least) if you don't want to lose half a gallon of coolant ?
Magnet on a stick... was a pain in the a** to get the TIP bolts in place.
Check your coolant level after the install

Only been able to take it for a spin two hours since, but everything is working fine like it was before, and it feels a little bit more responsive. Right now I'm using map 2 of the TSP Stage 1 tune, tomorrow I'll use map 3 and see if it feels any different/faster.
Are you still using TSP stage 1 with the CRV/SI turbo? How are your fuel trims?
 

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Received a great news yesterday morning that 1 of junkyards that I contacted in the last 2 months got back to me & said they have CR-V turbo. The junkyard delivered the turbo to my friend's workshop right after I made the payment and the workshop managed to replace my stock turbocharger with CR-V turbocharger.

First impression of driving. Low to mid pull is stronger compare to stock turbo. I made adjustment to my calibration this morning. I lowered the first 2000 RPM boost, and increased turbocharger maximum pressure to 21 PSI, which is about +2.5 PSI vs. CR-V maximum boost of 18.5 PSI, according to wikipedia.

No issue with fuel trim but need to adjust ignition limit. I find it strange that most knock counts occur between 1200 - 2500 RPM and partial throttle. Only 5 knock count from 3 W O T.
 
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Received a great news yesterday morning that 1 of junkyards that I contacted in the last 2 months got back to me & said they have CR-V turbo. The junkyard delivered the turbo to my friend's workshop right after I made the payment and the workshop managed to replace my stock turbocharger with CR-V turbocharger.

First impression of driving. Low to mid pull is stronger compare to stock turbo. I made adjustment to my calibration this morning. I lowered the first 2000 RPM boost, and increased turbocharger maximum pressure to 21 PSI, which is about +2.5 PSI vs. CR-V maximum boost of 18.5 PSI, according to wikipedia.

No issue with fuel trim but need to adjust ignition limit. I find it strange that most knock counts occur between 1200 - 2500 RPM and partial throttle. Only 5 knock count from 3 W O T.
a friend of mine have Si turbo and hes thinking to sell. Do you think its good idea to run on TSP stage1 map as you know m on flashpro as well.
 

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a friend of mine have Si turbo and hes thinking to sell. Do you think its good idea to run on TSP stage1 map as you know m on flashpro as well.
I've already asked this question to Derek Robinson and he said it should be fine.
 

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Received a great news yesterday morning that 1 of junkyards that I contacted in the last 2 months got back to me & said they have CR-V turbo. The junkyard delivered the turbo to my friend's workshop right after I made the payment and the workshop managed to replace my stock turbocharger with CR-V turbocharger.

First impression of driving. Low to mid pull is stronger compare to stock turbo. I made adjustment to my calibration this morning. I lowered the first 2000 RPM boost, and increased turbocharger maximum pressure to 21 PSI, which is about +2.5 PSI vs. CR-V maximum boost of 18.5 PSI, according to wikipedia.

No issue with fuel trim but need to adjust ignition limit. I find it strange that most knock counts occur between 1200 - 2500 RPM and partial throttle. Only 5 knock count from 3 W O T.
LSPI knock is most prevalent around 1,000 to 2,000rpm...
 


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LSPI knock is most prevalent around 1,000 to 2,000rpm...
I made some adjustments on ignition timing, which minimize LSPI. It was successful with the stock turbo but I think I may need to retard even lesser than stock to safe the engine.

I've already asked this question to Derek Robinson and he said it should be fine.
It could be fine with KTuner but Hondata could be different case.
 
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salik990

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I made some adjustments on ignition timing, which minimize LSPI. It was successful with the stock turbo but I think I may need to retard even lesser than stock to safe the engine.


It could be fine with KTuner but Hondata could be different case.
so you think flashpro with SI turbo will be issue unless you reflash to customize map.
 

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The Si has the same compressor as the base, and a different turbine wheel that allows for better breathing. It should run just fine on a tune made for the base turbo, possibly with a small performance increase in power in the upper rpm range if the stock turbo is maxed.
There is no reason why it would require a custom tune, other than to actually take advantage of the higher flow capacity.
 

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My suggestion just change the turbo and do datalog using TSP tune, and see if there is any issue. Different car could give different result.

Before switching turbo, I only have maximum 4 knock counts in 41 minutes drive with a few wot to redline using my custom calibration. After switching turbo, I get 9 knock counts in 41 minutes using same calibration & same route.

I know knock counts is not important but it is important to me. I made revision & now knock counts went down to 5 in 41 minutes. A few more tweaks & I should get back to 4 knock counts max in 41 minutes drive.
 

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I re-tune my calibration after CR-V/SI turbo swap. What I did basically try to minimize knock by adjusting ignition and boost. Cut long story short, I mirrored Hondata Civic SI +6 PSI boost curve and targeting 21 PSI at peak.

I recently pay closer attention to the boost table of Honda Civic SI calibration and notice Civic SI +6 PSI OTS targeting 2.598 bar (around 23.49 PSI) at peak.

An article in this thread: Power Metrics & Limitations for 1.5L Turbo (Non Si models) indicated we were already at higher efficiency islands of turbo compressor map at 21 PSI for non-SI.

I wonder if anyone can share the difference between SI and non-SI turbocharger compressor map efficiency islands and is able to share SI turbocharger compressor efficiency map.
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