The bearing on the tensioner might be going out. Slip the belt off of the any easiest accessible pulley and spin the tensioner by hand. If it makes the sound, then bingo.
I recommend you try to address the issue rather than just ignore it. Your car is throwing an inefficiency code for a reason. Ignoring it will only lead to detrimental permanent issues in the long run. Try putting a defouler on it.
It’s a direct swap and the power is noticeable. I did it to my fk7 and it’s currently running just fine. I also did add an rv6 downpipe, and a prl cobra cai at the same time. You can find the oem part numbers for the gaskets you’ll need as well as the torque specs and a few tips I encountered...
From what I’ve read, the very first oil that is put in your car has a special additive that helps “break in” the engine. You need to keep that oil there for the recommended 7500 miles. After that, I wouldn’t recommend waiting for the indicator or oil percentages. An oil filter should always be...
So just to be clear, you’re running a base map tune with the modifications?
I highly highly suggest you stop driving your car before anymore major damage is done. The base map you are on cannot account and adjust for all mods you are running. Get a tune before you drive again. I recommend...
Hello,
Recently got what I assume is premium gas from Fred Meyers. I wasn’t sure what the gas was because I was in Oregon and you’re not allowed to fill your own gas so I asked the guy to fill it with premium.
My question is... can low octane cause the car to run lean? Under any kind of...
Correct me if I’m wrong, but you are referring to IAT1 correct? If so, make sure you are on Celsius and not Fahrenheit. If you are indeed on Celsius then that’s stating that the air coming from outside, traveling through the air box and read by the maf (which is maybe no more than 2ft) is hotter...
Are you sure your temps were 95-99C? Thats equivalent to 200+ F. Granted it is pre intercooler, your intake temps are higher than that of operating temp of the vehicle. I would certainly be concerned.
You might be able to remove the axle nut, use a puller (you can rent from auto part store) and pull the hub out far enough so you can angle the stud to remove it and install the new one. To install the new stud, stick it through the hub, get a spacer (I like to use an old axle nut or a huge m16...
Unless you are doing the work yourself, the price it would cost you to change the connecting rods and upgrading the turbo; might as well buy a type R. It is pretty hard to achieve your goal of 250 hp without flex fuel or a turbo upgrade. Even the SI/CRV turbo won't make that big of a difference...
I can’t speak on the turbo alone because I went from stock with ktuner stage 2 to prl cobra cai street maf, rv6 catted downpipe, crv turbo and custom tune. Not done with the tuning process yet, but I can say there’s plenty of juice there for a daily driver.
The turbo splits in the middle where I circled. You will find the band clamp with the 10mm nut there. The other circled spot is the retaining clip and armature I’m referring to. The other 10mm nut you need to loosen to turn the “exhaust manifold” to take the armature off of the “exhaust...
Yes I’m talking about the l15bx engine. I recently did the swap myself. The turbo assembly is two piece. It’s held together by a worm cl
I am talking about the l15 turbo. The turbo itself is two pieces held together by a v band clamp. The piece with the broken stud, for lack of terminology...
Just get a new exhaust manifold. You don’t have to do an entire turbo swap. The new exhaust manifold will come with new studs and are held together by a band clamp to the turbo itself. Disassembly and reassembly of the turbo from the exhaust manifold is literally one 10mm nut. Make sure you mark...