Si turbo on non-Si

RiGalFK7

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Nice, thanks a lot @Myx, your posts across the forums have always been helpful.

I managed to get one from a 2020 SI for $350 with very little mileage, for that price I think it's worth the shot.

I was going to get the W1 but thats a little bit too much $$$ for me. Over here we dont have a lot of freeways, so keeping the rpm range in the mid is fine for me.
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If you end up with a spare turbo, it might be worth changing the wheels towards a TD03 hybrid that could push well around 260whp as long there's a reliable turbo workshop near you.
 

Myx

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Nice, thanks a lot @Myx, your posts across the forums have always been helpful.

I managed to get one from a 2020 SI for $350 with very little mileage, for that price I think it's worth the shot.

I was going to get the W1 but thats a little bit too much $$$ for me. Over here we dont have a lot of freeways, so keeping the rpm range in the mid is fine for me.

Something else to consider too is that when you sell your car (At some point, most of us will), if you have a bolt on turbo that doesn't necessarily need a custom tune for it (Ex: Si), you don't have pay to swap back in your stock turbo. I didn't necessarily need to tune for the Si turbo. The car ran just fine. I only did it to get the absolute most out of it, if anything. Drivability with the Si turbo on my Non-Si tune worked great. No issues!

This is something that I am keeping in mind with my current build now. I need to make a decision on if I want to upgrade the turbo or not. Decisions, decisions!

I hope you enjoy your turbo. Like I said above, I couldn't tell the car was actually quicker and faster with the Si turbo. I had my doubts, despite Drob showing me the dyno plots of the difference between the two. The before and after 1/4 mile times didn't lie though. It was pretty much quicker and faster throughout the whole 1/4 mile. Only the first 60ft was slower by about 1/10th of a second. or so but not all the time (As my timeslips above show it's still in the 2.1 range) **Which is fantastic on street tires, especially a CVT). Only an fool like me is concerned with that though. :p
 
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RiGalFK7

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Well, did the swap last weekend along with the RV6 DP/FP catted combo with ceramic coating I had laying around.It took me like 10 hours to get everything done.
The install was pretty straightforward. I removed the turbo TIP and sprayed PB blaster the night before and everything came off smoothly.

Some recommendations:
Don't lose any bolts/screws ?,
Breaker bar+PB Blaster = best combo ever
Pinch clamps (two at least) if you don't want to lose half a gallon of coolant ?
Magnet on a stick... was a pain in the a** to get the TIP bolts in place.
Check your coolant level after the install

Only been able to take it for a spin two hours since, but everything is working fine like it was before, and it feels a little bit more responsive. Right now I'm using map 2 of the TSP Stage 1 tune, tomorrow I'll use map 3 and see if it feels any different/faster.
 

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If you end up with a spare turbo, it might be worth changing the wheels towards a TD03 hybrid that could push well around 260whp as long there's a reliable turbo workshop near you.
shhhhhhhhhh don't spill all the beans haha
 
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Lunar_fk7

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Hi Everyone. I decided to follow suite and swap to the si turbo as well. I drive a 2018 civic sport with 6MT. Has anyone done a before and after baseline run. I think I saw a post further up the thread but not sure of what supporting mods were done with that dyno run.
 
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Myx

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Well, did the swap last weekend along with the RV6 DP/FP catted combo with ceramic coating I had laying around.
How is your car running with the RV6 DP/FP catted combo setup? I still have the stock front pipe and exhaust . The two PRL front pipes I had installed kept hitting the intermediate driveshaft, no matter how I switched the connection of the bolts on the front pipe to downpipe. I could never get this resolved.

Looking for a front pipe solution that doesn't contact my intermediate driveshaft, in the event I go to a more powerful turbo in the future. This is for installation in a CVT.
 
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Lunar_fk7

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Hi Everyone, when swapping the turbo is there any hardware I need to source? Im im using a turbo from a crv. Manly thinking I need a new gaskets.
 

RiGalFK7

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How is your car running with the RV6 DP/FP catted combo setup? I still have the stock front pipe and exhaust . The two PRL front pipes I had installed kept hitting the intermediate driveshaft, no matter how I switched the connection of the bolts on the front pipe to downpipe. I could never get this resolved.

Looking for a front pipe solution that doesn't contact my intermediate driveshaft, in the event I go to a more powerful turbo in the future. This is for installation in a CVT.
Well, no issues for now. Everything feels nice and smooth. No rattling or weird noises whatsoever.

I'm just getting a little bit of drone at around 1200 rpm after a cold start, but it goes away in a minute after everything gets to working temps. No CELs either, for now... ???
 
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RiGalFK7

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Hi Everyone, when swapping the turbo is there any hardware I need to source? Im im using a turbo from a crv. Manly thinking I need a new gaskets.
I reused everything I had already since I just have 16k miles with the car. A new gasket is fine, they are inexpensive enough. Just be sure not to lose any bolts ?
 


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Hi Everyone, when swapping the turbo is there any hardware I need to source? Im im using a turbo from a crv. Manly thinking I need a new gaskets.
I recently did the swap. You can reuse the a side and b side turbo gaskets as they are stainless steel. I recommend you change the turbo inlet and outlet gasket and the turbo oil feed and return as they are rubber and copper washers respectively.

These are the part OEM part numbers. I paid around 50$ from a dealership.

Turbo inlet (honda calls it "turbo joint in") 17285-5AA-A01
Turbo outlet ("turbo joint outlet") 17286-5AA-A01
Oil feed 15535-6A0-A00
Oil Return 15544-59B-003

Turbo A side gasket 18233-59B-004
Turbo B side gasket 18234-59B-004

I listed the a side and b side gasket just in case you wanted to replace, but they are kind of pricey.

Torque specs are 18 pounds for inlet and outlet. and 33 pounds for exhaust manifold to head, and downpipe to exhaust manifold.

There's a hidden bolt right above the nut on the turbo inlet. Took me a few frustrating minutes to find. You will know what I'm talking about when you tackle it. Also, some pinch clamps for the coolant lines coming from the turbo to the block will save you a lot of clean up.

Best of luck.
 

Lunar_fk7

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I recently did the swap. You can reuse the a side and b side turbo gaskets as they are stainless steel. I recommend you change the turbo inlet and outlet gasket and the turbo oil feed and return as they are rubber and copper washers respectively.

These are the part OEM part numbers. I paid around 50$ from a dealership.

Turbo inlet (honda calls it "turbo joint in") 17285-5AA-A01
Turbo outlet ("turbo joint outlet") 17286-5AA-A01
Oil feed 15535-6A0-A00
Oil Return 15544-59B-003

Turbo A side gasket 18233-59B-004
Turbo B side gasket 18234-59B-004

I listed the a side and b side gasket just in case you wanted to replace, but they are kind of pricey.

Torque specs are 18 pounds for inlet and outlet. and 33 pounds for exhaust manifold to head, and downpipe to exhaust manifold.

There's a hidden bolt right above the nut on the turbo inlet. Took me a few frustrating minutes to find. You will know what I'm talking about when you tackle it. Also, some pinch clamps for the coolant lines coming from the turbo to the block will save you a lot of clean up.

Best of luck.
Thanks for the detailed list. I will follow your recommendation. ? Also the fact that you took the time to provide part numbers and specs is very appreciated. I will take full advantage of this knowledge you shared. Also adding this to further expand on what you provided.

 
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arnoldo

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I've been searching for CR-V turbo from junkyard and all of the junkyard owners that I met recommended me to get new parts due to scarcity of 2nd hand part as car population is considered low in my country.

Do you think new CR-V turbo worth to buy or better save more money and get TD03 for CVT Civic?

Looking forward to reading your feedback.
 
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I've been searching for CR-V turbo from junkyard and all of the junkyard owners that I met recommended me to get new parts due to scarcity of 2nd hand part as car population is considered low in my country.

Do you think new CR-V turbo worth to buy or better save more money and get TD03 for CVT Civic?

Looking forward to reading your feedback.
I can’t speak on the turbo alone because I went from stock with ktuner stage 2 to prl cobra cai street maf, rv6 catted downpipe, crv turbo and custom tune. Not done with the tuning process yet, but I can say there’s plenty of juice there for a daily driver.
 

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I've been searching for CR-V turbo from junkyard and all of the junkyard owners that I met recommended me to get new parts due to scarcity of 2nd hand part as car population is considered low in my country.

Do you think new CR-V turbo worth to buy or better save more money and get TD03 for CVT Civic?

Looking forward to reading your feedback.
I’d get the W1 turbo.
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