The Tuned CivicX Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models)

The Hondataker

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Update #1: https://www.civicx.com/forum/thread...ad-for-all-models.42361/page-370#post-1251954

UPDATE!

Vehicle
: 2017 Civic Hatchback Sport CVT (Bought used at 65,232 miles)

Total tuned time: 6 Months

Tuned miles driven: 3,000+ (Current Miles: 71,828)

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner Flash v1.2

Tunes used: Phearable 1.5 Level 1: Low Boost

Fuel used: Chevron 91

Additional related mods: None

Problems/issues: Flashed the the car back to stock for a little over 3 months because I thought I was having CVT problems. There was a louder than usual whine coming from the CVT. For example, at a constant 4,000 RPMs in 1st in Sport Mode, it sounds like I have a second turbo. Sound wise the engine is the loudest, but there is a high pitch whine that is second loudest to the engine. (Hope I didn't confuse anyone with that. 😅) I started digging threw the forums and discovered its apparently normal for a CVT to have that whine. This is also my first CVT. Is it an issue... eh, I thought it was for me.

Driving style: Still Conservative, moderate driving.

Tune experience notes: USE A CAR BATTERY CHARGER WHEN FLASHING! I cannot stress this enough when flashing a tune on your car.
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GrDeleto

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It's been a little while since I last posted on this thread, so here's my update at 171,000 miles.
Vehicle: 2019 Honda Civic Si

Total tuned time: over 4 years

Tuned miles driven: 160k and counting

Tuning device(s) used: Ktuner v2

Tunes used: TSP Stage 1, Phearable 2.5

Fuel used: Speedway 93 and e85 (35%)

Additional related mods:
PRL flex fuel kit
PRL Cobra CAI (race maf)
27won front strut bar w/ brake MC brace
Eibach front and rear sway bars
Eibach Pro Kit springs
Acuity shifter mods and pedal spacer
Clutch Masters FX 350, aluminum flywheel and delay valve delete
EBC slotted rotors and YellowStuff pads
Draw-Tite trailer hitch
Hasport 82a full mounts
Built transmissions: RV6 3-4 w/carbon synchros, CAPTS 3-5 w/carbon synchros, and both with cryo treated and REM polished OEM gears.
Dakota Digital speedometer calibration
TSP head studs
Amsoil 0w-20 signature series engine oil
Amsoil 5w-30 MT transmission fluid
Wilwood Hi-Temp 570 Racing brake fluid
Braided flex lines all around
Secondary stereo system
The list is too long to keep going.

Problems/issues: HPFP went out around 90K miles. Dealership replaced it along with injectors and did a valve adjustment since they were noisy (about $3K). Broken wire (green) on the the wastegate harness ($100ish). Trunk latch was replaced by me twice for corrosion. The rest of these issues are due to my use of the car. Broken 4th gear (several times), worn front wheel bearings, worn inner and outer tie rods, knuckles were replaced due to rust, front hubs due to scoring and rust, rusty hardware under the car (anti seize everything). One of the biggest complaints is that thin aluminum lower engine cover. It constantly gets beat up and straightened out. Lowering the car does come with some maintenance!

Driving style: Aggressive. Autocross and some big track. 120 mile round trip commuting is why I'm over 171k miles right now. Car is great on the street and the track. Always excited to drive it.

Tune experience notes: I'm running an off the shelf tune. I have the throttle parameters set to aggressive and everything else set to what Phearable suggests for their traction control to work. I do the "Pedal Dance" to remove all driver aids when on the track. Spark plugs are gapped down to 0.028".
I'm still slightly confused about the traction control thing. Is it not advanced vsa or is it something else. Also regarding the gears, here's something from a short conversation i had with circut.heart:

Honda Civic 10th gen The Tuned CivicX Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models) 1710303640906-9u


(some double image glitch can't figure it out).

Essentially don't go above 250(which is the same amount that's some big turbo cvt's use and also clutch wise.) Sounds like a situation of what I call "makes too much torque for its own good."
 

Yoroghama

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Vehicle: 2020 Civic Sport Hatchback CVT

Total tuned time: 5 Hours (from writing this post)

Tuned miles driven: 43 miles (from writing this post)

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V2

Tunes used: TSP Stage 1

Fuel used: Southern California 91 Octane (basically ass gas) (Chevron + Shell only)

Additional related mods: PRL Cobra CAI w/ Race Maf

Problems/issues: None

Driving style: Spirited grandpa.

Tune experience notes: HOLY SH*T BALLS! On a more serious note, this tune completely makes the car DIFFERENT. Have not experience any other tune besides the TSP Stage 1 with the PRL COBRAI CAI w/ Race Maf. There is a slight rumble feeling at around 2-2.5k RPMs but once it catches boost it feels insanely smooth. I'm a happy camper! Debated on selling this car and buying a BMW before buying out my lease but didn't! Keeping my little blue civic for now. :)

Side notes: Car is currently at 31600k miles. Regular maintenance was performed at Honda during the lease but last oil change was MOBILE 1. Have not changed the CVT fluid but will do so in the next upcoming weeks or so. I plan on sticking to OEM Honda HCF-2 CVT fluid until someone convinces me to do a full flush for AMSOIL. Next mod is a SKUNK2 front pipe/down pipe!
 

Builtfc1

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Completed a 1,000 mile round trip over the weekend. Car didn’t skip a beat hit San Gabriel Mtns on my way out.
Current tuned miles: roughly 42,478 (6.8k on new engine setup)
No new modifications and no issues other than fantastic gas mileage. Here are some photos I took.
IMG_3232.jpeg
IMG_3229.jpeg
IMG_3238.jpeg
IMG_3202.jpeg
IMG_3195.jpeg
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Update since returning home my car has basically became a daily driver albeit I drive it 15 miles to my parents and park it then drive home. But since my 1,000 mile roadtrip I have put a good 960 miles on it since then definitely need to change the oil. Built transmission will be in next weekend. 🤘🏻
 
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gtman

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I'm still slightly confused about the traction control thing. Is it not advanced vsa or is it something else.
What's your confusion regarding Advanced VSA?
 


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gtman

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Vehicle: 2020 Civic Sport Hatchback CVT

Total tuned time: 5 Hours (from writing this post)

Tuned miles driven: 43 miles (from writing this post)

Tuning device(s) used: KTuner V2

Tunes used: TSP Stage 1

Fuel used: Southern California 91 Octane (basically ass gas) (Chevron + Shell only)

Additional related mods: PRL Cobra CAI w/ Race Maf

Problems/issues: None

Driving style: Spirited grandpa.

Tune experience notes: HOLY SH*T BALLS! On a more serious note, this tune completely makes the car DIFFERENT. Have not experience any other tune besides the TSP Stage 1 with the PRL COBRAI CAI w/ Race Maf. There is a slight rumble feeling at around 2-2.5k RPMs but once it catches boost it feels insanely smooth. I'm a happy camper! Debated on selling this car and buying a BMW before buying out my lease but didn't! Keeping my little blue civic for now. :)

Side notes: Car is currently at 31600k miles. Regular maintenance was performed at Honda during the lease but last oil change was MOBILE 1. Have not changed the CVT fluid but will do so in the next upcoming weeks or so. I plan on sticking to OEM Honda HCF-2 CVT fluid until someone convinces me to do a full flush for AMSOIL. Next mod is a SKUNK2 front pipe/down pipe!
Thanks for adding your car. Add new updates posts as you rack up the tuned miles or make any changes.
 
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gtman

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AVSA is KTuner's traction control system. Interestingly, John Vega doesn't recommend it.

Honda Civic 10th gen The Tuned CivicX Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models) Screenshot_20240313-041041~2
 

Chris_19Si

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I'm still slightly confused about the traction control thing. Is it not advanced vsa or is it something else.

Also regarding the gears, here's something from a short conversation i had with circut.heart:
Essentially don't go above 250.
There are several traction control schemes to discuss. I will describe what actually happens rather than how it happens, as I am not familiar with what the ECU is doing exactly. I will also limit my explanations to launching at an autocross event, as I have tried all of these modes. Launching for me is limited to two-step only and no anti-lag as I am still catted, that and I wouldn't have enough traction to deal with boost at launch anyway.
1. VSA On - This mode is default when starting the car. When launching, it pulls power to manage wheel spin and is very undesirable when trying to go fast. It reacts very quickly with only a chirp to be heard most of the time.
2. VSA Off - This mode can be entered by a long press on the VSA button and has to be set each time you turn the car on. When launching, it will allow some wheel spin, but won't allow much power to go fast. It's more for dealing with snow and mud. I don't like this option for autocross, and it is not very good at giving you a quick start off the line.
3. Pedal Dance - This mode is more advanced to enable using a combination of enable/disable VSA button, in combination with the e-brake button and brake pedal. This mode disables all of the factory driver aids. This is the only mode that I race with, and allows for complete control of the car, but it is not traction control. There is no control! It's all you on this one. I normally set two-step to around 2,800 RPM and slip the clutch to dust the tires off and build a small amount of heat at the tread, then when boost comes on I try to ride it out as the wheel spin slows down. It is not as quick as the traction control that my Phearable tune has programmed.
3. Aftermarket Tune - For the tune to manage traction, I have to disable cruise control and leave VSA enabled. In this case, I launch the car and there is a small amount of wheel spin for as long as you stay on power. I find that I have to modulate the throttle a little, but it keeps boost better than the other options and really pulls hard. I just can't use this mode in autocross because VSA is still on and holds me back from rotating the car in the turns. For going in a straight line, this is the mode that gives the best result for getting off the line and accelerating.

As for gears, I am not aware of a HP/torque value that the stock 4th gear is limited to. A better way to think of it is the time that you are at full power in that gear. I ran the stock gear on my stage 1 tune with no problem. I drive my car aggressively, and things were fine until I moved up to flex fuel. Even then, the stock gear did fine for a while. After my first track day, a few days later 4th gear went while passing someone on the highway. I upgraded the stock gears with cryo treatment and REM polish, but the new 4th gear went in a few months. There are several people that are still on the stock transmissions and on flex fuel without complaint. I can't say their driving style is less aggressive than mine, but they must be holding back more than me. Again, it's not necessarily the power/torque you are putting in as much as the time at power (fatigue).

My goal for this car is to be a strong street car. The time on the track is very limited compared to the miles I have from commuting (over 171,000). I drive aggressively because the car is becoming more reliable with the mods I have been doing. The picture below shows a comparison between the stock gear and one of the CAPTS gears. You can probably see how one gear could be more reliable than the other. I no longer have to plan for a tow truck due to gear failure. Nice feeling to have.

Honda Civic 10th gen The Tuned CivicX Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models) CAPTS vs OEM
 

GrDeleto

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There are several traction control schemes to discuss. I will describe what actually happens rather than how it happens, as I am not familiar with what the ECU is doing exactly. I will also limit my explanations to launching at an autocross event, as I have tried all of these modes. Launching for me is limited to two-step only and no anti-lag as I am still catted, that and I wouldn't have enough traction to deal with boost at launch anyway.
1. VSA On - This mode is default when starting the car. When launching, it pulls power to manage wheel spin and is very undesirable when trying to go fast. It reacts very quickly with only a chirp to be heard most of the time.
2. VSA Off - This mode can be entered by a long press on the VSA button and has to be set each time you turn the car on. When launching, it will allow some wheel spin, but won't allow much power to go fast. It's more for dealing with snow and mud. I don't like this option for autocross, and it is not very good at giving you a quick start off the line.
3. Pedal Dance - This mode is more advanced to enable using a combination of enable/disable VSA button, in combination with the e-brake button and brake pedal. This mode disables all of the factory driver aids. This is the only mode that I race with, and allows for complete control of the car, but it is not traction control. There is no control! It's all you on this one. I normally set two-step to around 2,800 RPM and slip the clutch to dust the tires off and build a small amount of heat at the tread, then when boost comes on I try to ride it out as the wheel spin slows down. It is not as quick as the traction control that my Phearable tune has programmed.
3. Aftermarket Tune - For the tune to manage traction, I have to disable cruise control and leave VSA enabled. In this case, I launch the car and there is a small amount of wheel spin for as long as you stay on power. I find that I have to modulate the throttle a little, but it keeps boost better than the other options and really pulls hard. I just can't use this mode in autocross because VSA is still on and holds me back from rotating the car in the turns. For going in a straight line, this is the mode that gives the best result for getting off the line and accelerating.

As for gears, I am not aware of a HP/torque value that the stock 4th gear is limited to. A better way to think of it is the time that you are at full power in that gear. I ran the stock gear on my stage 1 tune with no problem. I drive my car aggressively, and things were fine until I moved up to flex fuel. Even then, the stock gear did fine for a while. After my first track day, a few days later 4th gear went while passing someone on the highway. I upgraded the stock gears with cryo treatment and REM polish, but the new 4th gear went in a few months. There are several people that are still on the stock transmissions and on flex fuel without complaint. I can't say their driving style is less aggressive than mine, but they must be holding back more than me. Again, it's not necessarily the power/torque you are putting in as much as the time at power (fatigue).

My goal for this car is to be a strong street car. The time on the track is very limited compared to the miles I have from commuting (over 171,000). I drive aggressively because the car is becoming more reliable with the mods I have been doing. The picture below shows a comparison between the stock gear and one of the CAPTS gears. You can probably see how one gear could be more reliable than the other. I no longer have to plan for a tow truck due to gear failure. Nice feeling to have.

CAPTS vs OEM.jpg
so advanced vsa is not used at all?
 


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so advanced vsa is not used at all?
I will have to check my settings in KTuner. It's been a while since I set it up. I tried it on and off in the tune and it makes a huge difference with the Phearable tune. I just can't remember what they told me to set it to. I think it has to be on in the tune but will check this evening and respond. In any case, when I had it set wrong the car would buck violently when I was losing traction. Once they told me what to set it to, it really made a huge difference.
 

Thermz

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Vehicle: 2018 Civic LX Hatchback

Total tuned time: 3 weeks

Tuned miles driven: 500km

Tuning device(s) used:
KTuner V1.2

Tunes used: Ktuner Map2, TSP stage 1 map 3

Fuel used: 91 (only thing available where I'm from :()

Additional related mods: Just installed the 27won CAI and love it

Problems/issues:
None

Driving style: Pretty causal, enjoy a good burst from time to time

Tune experience notes: Been running Map 3 pretty much the whole time and love it. Nice to get a little more induction noise from the 27won intake but by no means loud at all.

Honda Civic 10th gen The Tuned CivicX Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models) thumbnail_IMG_0852


Honda Civic 10th gen The Tuned CivicX Experience & Reliability Thread (for all models) civ 1
 
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I will have to check my settings in KTuner. It's been a while since I set it up. I tried it on and off in the tune and it makes a huge difference with the Phearable tune. I just can't remember what they told me to set it to. I think it has to be on in the tune but will check this evening and respond. In any case, when I had it set wrong the car would buck violently when I was losing traction. Once they told me what to set it to, it really made a huge difference.
@Chris_19Si that's odd. John Vega (@phearable ) personally told me Advanced VSA isn't recommended with his tunes. He said that doing the pedal dance and using throttle modulation is best due to AVSA overreacting and cutting timing/power.

I tagged him so hopefully he'll pop by and make a post here and clear this up.
 
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gtman

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Started with the Ktuner and it completely changed the car, now all I can think about is what else I may add. 21WON intake on its way, will end up doing a custom exhaust as there aren't many options out there for the LX hatch.
Thanks for adding your car; add new updates posts from time to time. Excellent choice on the 27Won intake. Great underhood bling too.
 
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3. Pedal Dance - This mode is more advanced to enable using a combination of enable/disable VSA button, in combination with the e-brake button and brake pedal. This mode disables all of the factory driver aids.
Everything including ABS? I hate traction control systems with a passion but ABS has saved my butt once or twice and would hate to lock up tires heading into a corner.
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