PRL Motorsports 2017+ Honda Civic Type-R FK8 High Volume Intake System Install Guide

Kekela98a

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To be honest I have no idea.

1. I installed Intake
2. Car cranked but didnt start (tried 3 more times)
3. I reinstalled stock intake
4. Car cranked but didnt start
5. It's the next day now
6. Randomly decide to start the car. It worked!
7. I reinstalled PRL intake
8. Car started for about 5 seconds then died

Took it to the shop 48 hours later, was informed that they cleaned injectors as it was filled with gas. Car started fine after that, all error codes gone.

I have no idea lol
Gotta say you have the worst luck. I didn't expect all of this to happen just from an intake install.



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fiend busa

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Gotta say you have the worst luck. I didn't expect all of this to happen just from an intake install.
Yup, now I've been having the P2261 error code since then. Honda is going to try and replace the bypass valve.
 

shadow

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yeah, the silicone pipe was the hardest part of the install lol. I will keep on eye on that purge valve area and the bolts for the airbox.

I did all sorts of maneuvering of the pipe. had both clamps loosen and twist, tighten one side and twist, etc but this position gave me the biggest clearance. I didn't mind bending the hardline since it's a pretty minuscule amount but just a little worried about the angle on the rubber hose especially since it's a coolant hose. Just gotta go back and try to bend that end a little sideways so it's not as high of an angle as it is now and should be ok. It's just hard to bend the line at the end compare to the middle lol.

would cutting this section of the silicone pipe a little more to bring the purge valve slightly lower help? or would you not recommend that. I feel like that would help a lot with clearance.
fsbHuF4.png


Either way, i don't think i'll mess with it too much as long as nothing is rubbing on the hood. I'll probably wait for the Inlet pipe first since it comes with a different silicone tube to do further adjustments.
I installed my intake this weekend. There was minimal clearance between the hard line and EVAP flange and I wasn't too comfortable with it. I don't know how much the engine moves during acceleration. So I cut 5 mm off the silicone hose where the EVAP fitting goes in. The clearance increased a bit. I will observe for any rubbing.

March 3, 2020: So far no rubbing.
 
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How frequently do you have to replace this filter and do you have to take out the assembly to do it?
 
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How frequently do you have to replace this filter and do you have to take out the assembly to do it?
You should be okay with a few cleaning/recharges. It is often up to customer discretion as to when you deem it needing replaced due to various driving environments.

The airbox side cover will need to be removed to access the filter, and the airbox will need to be disconnected to completely remove the filter.


Maintenance:
PRL Motorsports recommends visually inspecting the air filter for screen visibility at every oil change and requires cleaning the air filter element whenever the screen is no longer visible or every 30,000 miles, whichever comes first. When used in dusty or off-road environments, filters will require cleaning more often. To clean and re-oil, our #2801 filter cleaning & recharge kits can be purchased on our site or through an authorized PRL Motorsports vendor.


Filter Recharging:
1. Pre-Cleaning: Tap the filter or use air to remove excess dirt.
2. Apply Cleaner: Spray the filter with cleaner and allow the solution to soak in for about 15 minutes.
3. Rinse: Rinse the filter with warm water, clean side to dirty side to flush out the dirt.
4. Drying: Allow the filter to dry naturally. Try to avoid heat to avoid shrinking the cotton.
5. Apply Oil: Re-Oil the filter using the filter oil by using 1 spray per 2 square inches of filter. Be sure to not over-oil filter.
 

fiend busa

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You should be okay with a few cleaning/recharges. It is often up to customer discretion as to when you deem it needing replaced due to various driving environments.

The airbox side cover will need to be removed to access the filter, and the airbox will need to be disconnected to completely remove the filter.


Maintenance:
PRL Motorsports recommends visually inspecting the air filter for screen visibility at every oil change and requires cleaning the air filter element whenever the screen is no longer visible or every 30,000 miles, whichever comes first. When used in dusty or off-road environments, filters will require cleaning more often. To clean and re-oil, our #2801 filter cleaning & recharge kits can be purchased on our site or through an authorized PRL Motorsports vendor.


Filter Recharging:
1. Pre-Cleaning: Tap the filter or use air to remove excess dirt.
2. Apply Cleaner: Spray the filter with cleaner and allow the solution to soak in for about 15 minutes.
3. Rinse: Rinse the filter with warm water, clean side to dirty side to flush out the dirt.
4. Drying: Allow the filter to dry naturally. Try to avoid heat to avoid shrinking the cotton.
5. Apply Oil: Re-Oil the filter using the filter oil by using 1 spray per 2 square inches of filter. Be sure to not over-oil filter.
Hey, what does it mean by when screen filter is no longer visible?
 

SE25

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I just installed mine here in the UK - fitment was fine for me.

One question though - I foolishly missed the part where you route the MAF wire under/in front of the air box, and now it's just draped over the air box. Is there any long term negative impact? Looks a bit ugly, but it doesn't seem to get hot, and everything is working fine. I'm wondering if I can just leave it as is until a filter clean is due.

Thanks

ETA: quick first start video
 

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If you follow the wire loom to a zip tie clip in the chassis, pop that loose and it will give you extra slack. My cable now wraps around behind the air box. That's what I did.
 
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If you follow the wire loom to a zip tie clip in the chassis, pop that loose and it will give you extra slack. My cable now wraps around behind the air box. That's what I did.
That is definitely an option! There are no negative impacts if you run the MAF wire above the airbox besides the fact that it doesn't look good.


I just installed mine here in the UK - fitment was fine for me.

One question though - I foolishly missed the part where you route the MAF wire under/in front of the air box, and now it's just draped over the air box. Is there any long term negative impact? Looks a bit ugly, but it doesn't seem to get hot, and everything is working fine. I'm wondering if I can just leave it as is until a filter clean is due.

Thanks

ETA: quick first start video
Appreciate the video! We will check it out.
 

ExVTEC

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Here's a pic of the wire routed behind the battery. There is no tension on the wiring as it has just enough slack.

20200302_221232.jpg
 

SE25

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Excellent, thanks a lot for your help - didn't notice that little clip down there!
 

battledog

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Wife installed my intake earlier today. Had to help attaching the silicone inlet hose as it was really difficult to fit. Car sound amazing now. KTuner next.

Instruction says it takes 1 hour. 2-3 hours was closer to reality for us.
 
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Wife installed my intake earlier today. Had to help attaching the silicone inlet hose as it was really difficult to fit. Car sound amazing now. KTuner next.

Instruction says it takes 1 hour. 2-3 hours was closer to reality for us.
Excellent, we've been hearing it takes a little longer than an hour, revision to the installation guide will be made. We install and remove a product a few dozen times and each time gets quicker, so it's difficult for us to gauge sometimes.
Enjoy!
 

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