PRL Motorsports 2017+ Honda Civic Type-R FK8 Charge Pipe Upgrade

CnoEVO

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I am in the process of getting ready to order the PRL Intercooler, and High Volume Intake. Deciding whether the charge pipes are a huge benefit or not to add? Car is my daily driver and I have Hondata right now. I live in AZ (91oct) and won't be getting flex fuel but I will get an etune once I pick an exhaust in the next couple months. Can you tell a difference with the charge pipes? Any feedback helps. Thank you
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I am in the process of getting ready to order the PRL Intercooler, and High Volume Intake. Deciding whether the charge pipes are a huge benefit or not to add? Car is my daily driver and I have Hondata right now. I live in AZ (91oct) and won't be getting flex fuel but I will get an etune once I pick an exhaust in the next couple months. Can you tell a difference with the charge pipes? Any feedback helps. Thank you
Thanks for inquiring about our upgraded charge piping kit!! Our upgraded charge pipe kit utilizes smooth flowing, 26% larger inner diameter cold-side for increased airflow and factory diameter hot-side outlet to aid in turbocharger spool.
We utilize 4-ply silicone couplers throughout our design for a couple of reasons:
  1. Heat-soak reduction: Silicone hose offers extremely low thermal heat transfer properties, especially in comparison to steel or aluminum.
  2. Strength and rigidity: The rubber hoses used from the factory are known to experience expansion, which worsens as boost is increased. In time, the rubber construct weakens, causing increased likeliness of a boost leak. Also, we have managed to melt the factory rubber hose a handful of times during our track adventures on our shop car. Our high-temp, 4-ply silicone with handle the high temperatures of the turbocharger much better than the factory rubber hose(s).
  3. Smooth airflow: Custom molded silicone allows us to offer much higher flowing bends than we could with metal tubing.
  4. Optimal fitment: We have found that the factory rubbers hoses don't offer the most desirable fitment, especially when paired with an aftermarket radiator. Our silicone hose(s) offer even better fitment than factory.
 

kefi

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Welp, I'm stuck again. Cant seem to get the double sided bolt off the big charge pipe. Any tips? Really dont wanna damage the threads on this.

I feel dumb for asking this.. but I'm supposed to turn it counter clockwise to loosen it like any other bolt, right?
 

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Welp, I'm stuck again. Cant seem to get the double sided bolt off the big charge pipe. Any tips? Really dont wanna damage the threads on this.

I feel dumb for asking this.. but I'm supposed to turn it counter clockwise to loosen it like any other bolt, right?
what do you mean double bolt. Are you talking about the stud thats on the pipe that the sensor connects to?
 

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Welp, I'm stuck again. Cant seem to get the double sided bolt off the big charge pipe. Any tips? Really dont wanna damage the threads on this.

I feel dumb for asking this.. but I'm supposed to turn it counter clockwise to loosen it like any other bolt, right?
I’m installing my charge pipe kit right now and they include a small 10mm bolt to secure the sensor. No need to remove the double sided bolt. It unscrews counter clockwise though.
 


kefi

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what do you mean double bolt. Are you talking about the stud thats on the pipe that the sensor connects to?
Yeah, sorry, its late lol. The stud the sensor connects to, yes.

I got it off though by heating it up with a heatgun first. Thanks for always being quick to reply boosted.
 

boosted180sx

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Yeah, sorry, its late lol. The stud the sensor connects to, yes.

I got it off though by heating it up with a heatgun first. Thanks for always being quick to reply boosted.
ah that's good. The actual correct way to remove it is to lock 2 nuts together and loosen it like you would a bolt. Just like removing and installing an exhaust stud.
 

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ah that's good. The actual correct way to remove it is to lock 2 nuts together and loosen it like you would a bolt. Just like removing and installing an exhaust stud.
Yeah, I had remembered this technique too but couldn't find another nut... until I put my battery back in and realized there's two of them right there on the battery hold-down posts. :doh:

Just got everything hooked up - HVI, inlet pipe, and charge pipes. Holy SHIT it's loud. I was laughing in glee.
 

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Yeah, I had remembered this technique too but couldn't find another nut... until I put my battery back in and realized there's two of them right there on the battery hold-down posts. :doh:

Just got everything hooked up - HVI, inlet pipe, and charge pipes. Holy SHIT it's loud. I was laughing in glee.
The charge pipe makes the engine noise louder?
 


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Welp, I'm stuck again. Cant seem to get the double sided bolt off the big charge pipe. Any tips? Really dont wanna damage the threads on this.

I feel dumb for asking this.. but I'm supposed to turn it counter clockwise to loosen it like any other bolt, right?
This is half a month late, but it might help someone out there.

I too couldn't get the stud out of the OEM charge pipe. Rummaging through my bolts, I ended up with an M6 x 25mm bolt. But being picky about these things, I eventually changed it to an M6 x 30mm stud and used the stock nut.
 

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The standard double nut method worked for me. I tightened two nuts together firmly, and then turned the bottom one counterclockwise. The stud came out. Reversed it to put it into the PRL charge pipe.
 

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Tips on this install:

- If you need another nut to remove the stud. (Double nut method). The battery holder nut is the same size.
- make sure double and triple check all hose clamps. The hot side is a little tougher to get it.
 


 


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