Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

frtorres87

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I gotta say this is probably the best build thread on here. its all about the details.



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fatherpain

fatherpain

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My good buddy @boosted180sx suggested and showed me how I could “Mod” my initial caveman style attempt at a table of contents into a cleaner, more functional version. Are you kidding me? Haha!! Hyperlinks and @boosted180sx FTW!!! :bow:

After he showed me how, and I took time to re-organize the table of contents in the format below. Click each red post and it will take you straight there!!! This has been copied to the first post in this thread. Hope this proves even better for those looking for certain topics rather than having to search through 18 pages of my random crazy man musings and ramblings, ;)

Table of Contents:

Year one wrap up
Post #61

ENGINE/DRIVETRAIN:
COOLING MODS:
SUSPENSION/WHEELS/BRAKES:
  • Girodisc brake pads Post #9
  • Rear brake pad and caliper change. Post #11, #13, #14, #15, #16, #17
  • Sakebomb SST brakelines Post #18, #192
  • Brake Safety tip when downsizing from 20’s to 18’s Post #91
  • Gyrodisc front rotors and Front pad change Post #19, #20, #21, #22, #33
  • Brake Bleeding Sequence Post #23
  • Brake bleeding (1) person method w/Speedi-bleed Post #476
  • Brake Bedding Procedure Post #23
  • wheel lug torque specs Post #23
  • Rays/Volk TE37SL 18 x 9.5 +45 pressed double black Post #66, #75, #77, #88, #93, #147, #217
  • Project Kics Iconix M14 x 1.5 Black lugs Post #69, #88, #147
  • Woolies and wheel cleaning Post #80, #217
  • Kics Koyo el hub centric rings Post #91
  • Bridgestone RE71R 265-35-18 Post #88, #92, #199, #203, #311
  • Rays center caps and wheel adapters Post #220
  • J’s Racing titanium wheel lugs Post #340
  • JRZ RS Pro coilovers w/ quick disconnect rear reservoir hoses **ready to install**
  • HKS error cancellers **ready to install**
  • RV6 Compliance Mount **ready to install**
  • RV6 Rear Sway Bar With Billet Endlinks **ready to install**
  • RV6 Rear Camber Arm **ready to install**
  • RV6 Rear Toe Control Arms **ready to install**
EXTERIOR:
INTERIOR:
MAINTENANCE TASKS
TRACKDAY RELATED:
MISC:
  • Get your Civic Owner’s Manual Post #179
  • EZ Car Lift w/extension ramp and xm69 Post #274
ACCESSORIES:

Various tools, torque wrenches
Stealth Portable air compressor

FUTURE:

AIM Solo 2DL- lap timer and Smarty cam
Oil temp/pressure/water temp gauges.
Girodisc rear rotors
Blackvue dashcam
Radium Universal Fuel Surge Tank FSTR with regulated FPR #20-0130-01

Track days: 6

Big Willow 2/16/20 AROSC
Big Willow 4/3/20 Speed District
Streets of Willow 5/17/20 Speed District
Button Willow 5/22/20 Speed District
Streets of Willow 8/22/20 LA Shelby Club
Big Willow 10/11/20 AROSC
—————————-
Streets of Willow 10/31/20 Speed Ventures
Chuckwalla 11/21/20 Speed Ventures
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Whoa 😳, considering all of the truly fantastic threads here on CivicX (including yours) that is high praise... Thank you Frank.

Hopefully, this thread will continue provide content that is helpful, informative, somewhat entertaining and measures up to that standard...

Have been learning on the fly, with the help of some very knowledgeable people like Boosted180sx, hpbyhermann, metal_driver and many others and sharing so other civic owners may benefit as well. Although readers may opt for other mod manufacturers, the install concepts should be the same.

Type R ownership and modding has been a fun journey and hopefully this thread captures and conveys some of that.

Here’s a preview of what will be added soon, finally pulled the trigger after eyeing it for over a year:

A Dream-Automotive Sports Catted Downpipe that is supposed to match the performance of a 3” catless DP. Will come with hard lagging for heat management.

1F379F45-6C07-43BB-B89B-48BC3E4C825F.png



I gotta say this is probably the best build thread on here. its all about the details.
 
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fatherpain

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A safe, reliable means of raising your car is essential if want to maintain or mod your car. Decided on an EZ Carlift when I first started and saw Bouford’s awesome ride raised on one, displaying his Sequence Exhaust. No regrets. The EZ carlift has my life easy and has paid for itself, with the number of times its been used.
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Bouford's photo sold me on both products, heh.

The EZ Car Lift checked a lot of boxes:

1. Screw jack based. No hydraulic oil leaks or chance the car will move or fall, once input force is not applied

2. Portable to store away when not in use or can be transported in the Type R if needed.

3. Can be set up and used easily by a single person....has a 4,400 lb capacity but isn’t super heavy. Can also be used for other vehicles, with the correct crossbeams. The Type R uses the XM69. I also have the XM59 for our other cars.

4. Quality craftsmanship. Made in USA. Innovative design, A++ customer service, many positive reviews + it looks cool.

If there is a downside, it would be cost. Currently an EZ car lift set up for the Type R is:

$1740 - EZ Carlift
$85 - extension ramps (needed for the R)
$175 - shipping
$139 - for a good 2-speed drill (w/cord) I chose DeWalt.
——————
$2139 + Tax.

**note** there might be an extra charge for the Type R because it is wide and uses very long crossbeams XM69’s. If you have a good drill already then don’t need a new one.

I also purchased a set of XM59’s to use with other cars. Extra crossbeams are about $125-135 per set.

There are many less expensive options out there than can also get the job done, such as floor jacks, jack stands, ramps or hydraulic lifts. The Quickjack-5000 hydraulic lift is a popular option at a little over 1/2 the cost and is available at Costco, so that’s a big plus.

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Used to store it like this when not in use. Each lift ramp is made of aluminum and weigh 60 lbs each. Some may store it fully assembled on wall hangers or stowed on the floor, if have space. Sadly, I do not. The blue extensions needed for the Type R are attached and add about 10 lbs each. Total assembled weight of the lift is about 160 lbs. Too much for little old me, so I break it down.


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Here are the wall hangers that come with the lift, but I don’t use them.


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The (2) gray crossbeams. Type R uses size xm69. I also have xm59 to work on our other cars.


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Lately have opted to store the ramps like this. No chance of falling and by lifting the right side, each ramp can be easily rolled around like a wheelbarrow on the silver rollers on the lower left.


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Just like this. Its a back saving tip Mr. Boytcho Manev shared with me.


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EZ carlift ready to assemble. Tool needed is a 9/16 nut driver. Drew match marks on the concrete to know where to position the ramps each time.


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Kept these wooden shipping protectors for the threads on this end. I pull them off each time, then reinstall when done.


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One end of each ramp has this square drive for the gear boxes.


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One crossbeam is special and has this drive link which engages the square drive of each ramp.


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With the drive link engaged, insert and tighten these (2) bolts for each ramp. Anti-seize compound is applied to each set of threads. Each gear box has an Allen plug to add the supplied oil to keep the gears lubricated.


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Connect the other crossbeam. There is no drive link or gearbox at this end.


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EZ Carlift fully assembled. The original instructions say to install the lift upside down, then flip it over..... This alternate method Mr. Boytcho shared is so much easier. No lifting required and easier on the knees. I still put a cushion on the concrete. ;)


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Once assembled, use the drill to lower the ramps, so the feet raise and the caster wheels contact the ground so the lift can be rolled around.


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EZ Carlift ready to slide underneath the car.


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The EZ Car Lift positioned and ready. The (4) caster wheels are universal swivel so the lift kind of rolls here and there when guiding it. With a little patience can get it lined up just right. My car is stock height. Lowered cars would need to drive onto 1” plywood or 2x4s so the EZ lift will fit.


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The EZ Car Lift uses these sturdy rubber pucks. Mine came stacked (2) high, but that was too tall. Removed one puck from each, as shown. These are placed under each lifting point on the car like this. Be sure to double check to verify all (4) pucks are properly lined up before raising the car.


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This is the corded drill I opted for to operate the lift. Has been great so far. Has (2) speeds. Low speed/more torque when initially lifting the car to 25% height or so...then high speed to take it the rest of the way to the maximum 26”, or whatever height needed in between. Do not use the hammer drill function.


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The drill connects here to lift the ramp. The adapter needed is supplied with the EZ Car Lift, but its a good idea to buy extras in case it wears out.

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The mechanic jumpsuit is a requirement for DIY’ers, jk. My son took this pic,


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Car raises to its full height in about 1 minute and 40 seconds.


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maximum working height is 26”.


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Placed a red landmark with a sharpie so know where the maximum height it. This wouldn’t be needed if the extension ramp was installed on the other end. Mine are installed covering the limit indicator... and I’m too lazy to swap it back, heh. When the car is raised, fixed feet plant to the ground and the casters go up with the grey crossbeams.


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The EZ Carlift is screw jack based and perfectly safe. For the lift and car to come crashing down, the threads would need to strip through (3) bushings and that isn’t going to happen. I keep a light coat of grease applied to the jacking threads. DO NOT use anti-seize here, because it contains grit that breaks down and will cause a machining/cutting action on the threads over time. Grease only here.


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Car raised.


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At it's full height.


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Rock solid. Won’t move even if pushed. EZ Car Lift does have optional wheels to roll the car around while lifted.. but I do not have them or need at moment.


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Easy access from all sides. Especially if have a creeper. (I need one someday)


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Plenty of room underneath. The gray crossbeams are minimally invasive.


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Lots of room for oil changes. 26” maximum height. Additionally I’ve found tons of uses beyond just oil changes ;)


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Cleaning and inspecting exhaust piping...


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Performing boost leak checks to resolve issues I had with the FMIC before... and all the mods I’ve performed ;)


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Here are what the pucks look like fresh after a use... the rubber does spring back and they look better later. @ez12a shared replacement pucks are cheap on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BPHES8W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1


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The only drawback with the EZ Carlift is if used in a carport or (1) car garage.

I’ve got a (3+) car garage but it’s jam packed with old arcade games (my previous OCD hobby sigh). They have been pushed aside to make a workspace similar to a (1) car garage.

Under this scenario, there isn’t space to position the EZ Carlift along the side, where it normally is positioned before sliding it under the car.

Attempted to assemble the lift under the car, but that was a no-go.

Moved the game on the left side out, put the EZ Carlift together in its place, slid it under, then moved the game back. Was fortunate to have that option.

I normally use the lift outside where there is plenty of room on either side... but for longer projects and inclement weather, the garage is a better place to stage the car.

Fortunately there is a solution for the single car garage conundrum. EZ Carlift has a optional limited space kit. Picked one up, but have not had time to try it. It is not as simple as it appears to be. There is an entire procedure to follow and haven't had time to digest it yet, heh.

Another option would be the moving casters kit, which would permit the car to be rolled in and out of the garage, once its raised.

0e12d4f7-1763-4e39-ba9a-ccaadb68f2ed-png.png


Regarding Safety of the EZ Carlift: The crossbeams are non load bearing so no worries there. Their purpose is solely to connect the (2) lifting ramps together and to transfer the rotational torque needed to turn the driveshaft of the slave ramp. Mr. Boytcho says both the slave and driver ramps are capable of supporting the rated load of 4,400 lbs independently. If one ramp were to somehow fail, the other would prevent the car from crashing down.

EZ Car Lift has been around for many years, so if there were failures, word would be out there.

The lifting mechanism is based on large screw threads passing through bushings and also has a fail safe. Any failure would occur during operation either up or down, not when the car is raised and static when we are under it.

The torque on the EZ Car Lift is at its greatest prior to lifting when it’s flat and does not have leverage, hence when using a (2) speed drill, I begin with the drill’s lowest “gear” then switch to high speed once the ramp lifts the car about 25%. Sounds counter intuitive, but the higher the ramps extend the stronger it is, up to its 26” maximum height.

My background is a Steam Plant Maintenance Mechanic and now Maintenance Supervisor working in power plants where we rig and lift equipment weighing up to 100+ tons, using cranes, hydraulic rams and screw jacks.

I am confident the EZ Car Lift is perfectly safe and my preference is for a mechanical lift rather than hydraulic. That said, it is a good practice to inspect the lift before each use, making sure it has proper lube and there are no brass shavings indicating the bushings are stripping out. This would certainly be cause for concern. So far none detected and I’ve used it a bunch of times in the short time I’ve owned one.

Don’t have experience using the Quickjack, but looked into that option before going with EZ Car Lift. I am sure it’s an excellent lift also, at a more affordable price point and safe as well. Just would rather not deal with hoses, potential oil leaks or the heavier ramps to move around and the EZ lift is portable enough to throw in the hatch and take to a friend’s house or to the track.
 
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TypeSiR

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Some of the pics aren’t showing up for some reason. Interested to see how you stow the lift in the garage without hanging it on the wall.

Edit: Never mind. They’re showing up now. Thanks!
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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Thanks Alan. Thought I could simply copy and paste images using the computer instead of my phone. Saw that was a fail right away 😂. Tried to fix it. Are the missing images showing up now?

Some of the pics aren’t showing up for some reason. Interested to see how you stow the lift in the garage without hanging it on the wall.
 

TypeSiR

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Thanks Alan. Thought I could simply copy and paste images using the computer instead of my phone. Saw that was a fail right away 😂. Tried to fix it. Are the missing images showing up now?
Thanks, Tom! They’re showing up now. Really appreciate the efforts in all your posts.

Edit: Copy & Paste on the Personal Confuser only works with one picture at a time. Use "Upload Files" function if uploading more than one picture (mobile and PC). @fatherpain
 
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fatherpain

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It’s always nice to have a true “details” guy in your corner: My buddy Boosted180sx is one of those fellows. He’s taken the time to answer my mod questions ever since I’ve been a CivicX member and helped me out of some jams along the way... Not only did he suggest and show me how to hyperlink this journals content, where it’s currently at...

He’s taken some time to organize my previous list of mods into categories. Game changer ;):dance:

With Boosted180sx’s permission, I’ve cut and pasted this revised table of contents to my first post, in place of what I had. Gotta give credit where credit is due:bow:

Thanks Hermano!

Table of Contents:

Year one wrap up
Post #61

EXTERIOR:
INTERIOR:
SUSPENSION/WHEELS/BRAKES:
ENGINE/DRIVETRAIN:
TRACKDAY RELATED:
MISC:
  • Autel AP200 ODB scanner Post #14
  • Rear window seal warranty item Post #76, #149
  • Comet 1700 pressure washer, Kobrajet hose, SGS28 gun, PF22 foam cannon, Worx leaf blower, washing a ceramic coated car. Post #79, #81
  • Get your Civic Owner’s Manual Post #179
  • EZ Car Lift w/extension ramp and xm69 Post #274
 
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fatherpain

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4276812B-E23E-44B7-A1BF-D8C67C54E3F7.jpeg

Here is the Morimoto/J’s/OLM/Coplus headlight output level.


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The consensus seems to be they are not as bright as OEM but the cutoff is sharper. I’m happy with the output. If it is dimmer, it could be attributed to the lenses being smoked.

I can confirm the cutoff is indeed sharper and interestingly, the beam seems to travel farther than OEM, though these pix do not demonstrate that.

The cutoff is slanted because my car is on a slight grade. Normally it’s straight across.
 
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8D2C27A4-FE3C-462B-8CBB-EBA5DB280BFC.jpeg

Went under the car to remove plastic push clips and and some bolts to pull the front bumper. Several clips were badly scraped and It’s only been a couple months since last replaced them. A little bit surprised at the wear, though the front end does scrape sometimes despite being at stock height. Will have to stop at the Honda parts store and grab some replacements.


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This is what they normally look like.
 
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07ED0AE3-254B-4F95-BD88-9F807DC62F88.jpeg

As previously mentioned the J’s Racing Grill had some issues with fitment, namely an uneven edge that has high and low spots.

To fix this, used some painter’s tape to mark where the edge should be.


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Raised the car, pulled the bumper


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Set the grill outdoors on a couple soft stools and placed a pad on the ground to save my knees.


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Used a red sharpie to mark the exposed edge to be shaved off.


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A flat hand file worked great to remove the fiberglass material using long straight sweeps.

Did all of this work outdoors and wore eye protection and a respirator to protect against fiberglass dust.


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Switched to 80 grit sandpaper and wrapped it around a block of wood to finish the edge, when it got close to where I wanted it. The dog was no help... I sometimes want his life.... not a care in the world, but he can’t drive a Type R!


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Fit the grill back to check fitment and made some adjustments

Here is the finished result. Gap fitment is now uniform like it’s supposed to be. The grill doesn’t look all that great because it is unpainted. I only sanded the edge, the gray sanded area was not touched. That is how it came.


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Another angle.


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Not bad at all, much better than before ;)


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However, noticed this mistake on my part upon closer inspection. Should have fit the grill before I measured and cut the foam tape. Now have these gaps in the foam.


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Which don’t looks so hot, like this.

Pulled the grill and dropped off for paint and clear coat. Removed the foam tape and will replace for the final install.

Ordered JDM black chrome front and rear badges. Might stay with the standard red Honda badgers. Will see which looks best when the time comes.
 
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fatherpain

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You're very welcome and thank you, 86salmon. I'm just paying forward the same help other members have extended to me. I was a total n00b to maintaining and modding cars, when I joined the Civic Type R community and found this fantastic forum. I still consider myself to be a N00b, but keep trying to learn as I go.

We are all resources for our fellow Civic owners through our street/track builds, individual threads and answers to people's questions.

Digging your journal and lunar silver Si, btw. Makes me wish Honda offered the Type R in silver, heh. Keep it up man!

Thanks for your extensive journal. I wish I took as many pics as you do. You are a great resource for the community
 
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fatherpain

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Picked up a Raceseng license plate relocator, since It’s interchangeable with their front tow hook. Not a fan of front license plates or drilling the front bumper.:. But don’t want to give the Popo any reason to pull me over.


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Raceseng build quality is excellent. I’m a fan of their products. The relocator comes with (4) Allen head screws to attach your front plate.


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The relocator threads into tug shaft in place of the tow hook. To do so, this clamp must be loosened to remove the threaded ball joint.


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Threaded ball joint removed.


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Tranferred the shaft nut from the tow hook to the ball joint, then threaded into the tug shaft.


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Applied (2) strips of weatherstripping to the backside of the license plate relocator to protect the bumper from scratches. Reconnected the clamp onto the ball joint...


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Adjusted the plate angle,, then tightened the clamp to hold it in place.


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Weatherstripping doing its job ;)


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Adjusted the plate depth then tightened the shaft nut to lock it in place.


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Raceseng front license plate relocator installed. Not sure if dig having a front plate...but it doesn’t block any functional vents and isn’t too weird looking.
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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2018 CTR - CW, 1996 Honda Accord EX coupe
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Beto’s Auto Body and Paint did a fantastic job with the grill. (2) day turnaround for primer, scuff corrections, paint and clear coat.


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J’s Racing Grill looks so much better up close, with proper paint and fitment


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Was a back and forth process to get this done , but am happy with result.


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All that remains is to determine which H emblem to go with (backordered) and take it for PFF/ceramic once (30) days have passed for the paint to properly cure.

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