Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

frtorres87

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Tom you continue to kill the game



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squirrel04

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Well damn...just when i thought i'd seen it all. i read this entire thread. Pretty amazing man.

So far all i have done is installed my hondata flashpro, AFE exhaust, AFE intake, Injen intercooler and intercooler piping, PRL catless downpipe, PRL midpipe, some different side markers, rally armor mudflaps, and a shift know. All done with random Youtube videos lol. These instructional pieces you have done would have probably have been easier to follow.

I'm considering on looking at getting an oil catch can and I would really love to get the Hondata Fuel System Upgrade next...you should go ahead and get that and do an instructional for us hahahaha.

Seriously though, thanks for all of this thread...really amazing stuff with attention to detail. I think this might be my first post on this site lol.
 
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fatherpain

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Heheh wow, that’s awesome squirrel04 :cool:
19+ pages is a heck of a lot of information to sift through and digest. Kudos and glad to hear you were able to make it through it all :headbang:

When this thread started last October, just wanted to gather together my random posts into a single spot where I could refer to when needed, instead of having to search the forums.

As more content was added, it got difficult finding stuff so finally pumped out a table of contents several days ago, then Boosted180sx suggested and showed how to make it hot link functional and categorized everything. Game changer for anyone (including myself) referencing this thread.. :bow:

You have a really good list of mods going, keep it up!

The fuel upgrade kit is really interesting and exciting, Will read on it more...though I do not presently have plans to add one yet.

Hesitant to chase big power as I don’t know much about it, value daily reliability and I’m not a good enough driver to push what I currently have to the limits 😂

Big power mods can get into really big dollars fast, done right. Probably upwards of $30k+ for a built motor, bigger turbo, fuel pumps, port injection, new clutch, etc. Recalling my RC days, when we added more power, that created issues with other components that couldn’t handle it and required constant attention, but it sure was fun, 😜

Haven’t sat down to tally the grand total that’s been spent so far, but wouldn’t be shocked to find it is equal or more than the cost of the car itself. I’ve saved on labor costs by DIY, but it still adds up quick :doh:

Complicating matters is my intention to go with a Motec 142 ECU tune this November (hopefully) so not sure what fueling options that will open up.

As for a suggested future mod, Highly recommend adding an oil catch can if you plan on keeping the R for awhile. Have caught a decent amount of oil carryover since it’s been installed. Radium is an excellent choice. Mishimoto also puts out a good one and there are some other options as well.

Thank you again for reading my journal :)
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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  • #289
CE083AA0-4A4E-4CE4-9B9B-20EC8B7DF893.jpeg

Followup on the light output of the Coplus/Morimoto/OLM..


4178DDEE-8BE7-4644-9FBF-E0D27F40A89C.jpeg

Here’s an interesting comparison shot. The Si’s headlight output did seem a bit brighter... Unsure if the Si and Type R headlights are identical. Would think they are...

The weird thing is I’ve notived the Coplus beam appears to travel further despite being dimmer.
 
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squirrel04

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Heheh wow, that’s awesome squirrel04 :cool:
19+ pages is a heck of a lot of information to sift through and digest. Kudos and glad to hear you were able to make it through it all :headbang:

When this thread started last October, just wanted to gather together my random posts into a single spot where I could refer to when needed, instead of having to search the forums.

As more content was added, it got difficult finding stuff so finally pumped out a table of contents several days ago, then Boosted180sx suggested and showed to make it hot link functional and then categorized it. Game changer for anyone (including myself) referencing this thread.. :bow:

You have a really good list of mods going, keep it up!

The fuel upgrade kit is really interesting and exciting, Will read on it more...though I do not presently have plans to add one yet.

Hesitant to chase big power as I don’t know much about it, value daily reliability and I’m not a good enough driver to push what I currently have to the limits 😂

Big power mods can get into really big dollars fast, done right. Probably upwards of $30k+ for a built motor, bigger turbo, fuel pumps, port injection, new clutch, etc. Recalling my RC days, when we added more power, created issues with other components that couldn’t handle it and required constant attention, but it sure was fun, 😜

Haven’t sat down to tally the grand total that’s been spent so far, but wouldn’t be shocked to find it is equal or more than the cost of the car itself. I’ve saved on labor costs by DIY, but it still adds up quick :doh:

Complicating matters is my intention to go with a Motec 142 ECU tune this November (hopefully) so not sure what fueling options that will open up.

As for a suggested future mod, Highly recommend adding an oil catch can if you plan on keeping the R for awhile. Have caught a decent amount of oil carryover since it’s been installed. Radium is an excellent choice. Mishimoto also puts out a good one and there are some other options as well.

Thank you again for reading my journal :)
Yeah its funny you say that...i ordered the Mishimoto one last night :) I try to read as much as i can. I've read some where that our clutch is only rated for 340lb but plenty of reports of cars well past that with no issues. I'm prepared to upgrade my clutch when needed, but so far no issues lol

In a couple weeks i'll be ordering hybrid racings shifter and cable bushing...especially since their facility is about 10 minutes down the road from me.

Once, again thanks for this thread. Will be following from here on out.
 
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fatherpain

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  • #291
12DD72E5-6CFC-4217-ADF7-E2352FA169DA.jpeg

Used a 1/8” drill bit to enlarge the holes on the J’s Racing grill center emblem holder so my JDM Honda badge would fit.

JDM doesn’t appear to be any different than the USA version, heh.

Shared the J’s Racing Grill instructions and gave Yasu permission to use it for future customers.

Yasu responded by letting me have the Honda badge for free and tossed in some J’s Racing stickers, heh.


D42CCEF5-D93B-4540-8FAB-04EA22CA8A06.jpeg

Did some trial mock ups. Here is the JDM badge on the J’s grill.

Have gotten used to the darker look, so the red looks a little out of place to my eyes now, heh. Will likely go with black chrome or try tinting the badge as My buddy hpbyhermann suggested.

Scratched the license plate relocator In favor of the tow hook and tossed it in the hatch. If I get pulled over for it, at least I can say something like, “sorry officer, went to the track recently and forgot to put it back... have it in the trunk, will do it right now sir!” 😂


22D10A38-44EF-465C-B499-69CEBC75C768.png

Here’s another mock up using the J’s Racing banner with red badge. Stuck it on temporarily using painter’s tape, then slightly edited the photo.


33B43F90-6D0C-45B6-A0E0-C3114649F056.jpeg

And J’s banner without the badge. Not big on stickers and haven’t applied any to this point, including the Voltex end plate stickers.

That said, the banner doesn’t look bad and would eliminate the need for the front visor which partially blocks the 400mm Broadway mirror, heh.
 

djlythium

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12DD72E5-6CFC-4217-ADF7-E2352FA169DA.jpeg

Used a 1/8” drill bit to enlarge the holes on the J’s Racing grill center emblem holder so my JDM Honda badge would fit.

JDM doesn’t appear to be any different than the USA version, heh.

Shared the J’s Racing Grill instructions and gave Yasu permission to use it for future customers.

Yasu responded by letting me have the Honda badge for free and tossed in some J’s Racing stickers, heh.


D42CCEF5-D93B-4540-8FAB-04EA22CA8A06.jpeg

Did some trial mock ups. Here is the JDM badge on the J’s grill.

Have gotten used to the darker look, so the red looks a little out of place to my eyes now, heh. Will likely go with black chrome or try tinting the badge as My buddy hpbyhermann suggested.

Scratched the license plate relocator In favor of the tow hook and tossed it in the hatch. If I get pulled over for it, at least I can say something like, “sorry officer, went to the track recently and forgot to put it back... have it in the trunk, will do it right now sir!” 😂


22D10A38-44EF-465C-B499-69CEBC75C768.png

Here’s another mock up using the J’s Racing banner with red badge. Stuck it on temporarily using painter’s tape, then slightly edited the photo.


33B43F90-6D0C-45B6-A0E0-C3114649F056.jpeg

And J’s banner without the badge. Not big on stickers and haven’t applied any to this point, including the Voltex end plate stickers.

That said, the banner doesn’t look bad and would eliminate the need for the front visor which partially blocks the 400mm Broadway mirror, heh.
Without the badge, it looks too generic, IMO. The red badge pops, and Pulls out the red text on the vinyl. Either way, though, pretty dope.
 

TypeSiR

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12DD72E5-6CFC-4217-ADF7-E2352FA169DA.jpeg

Used a 1/8” drill bit to enlarge the holes on the J’s Racing grill center emblem holder so my JDM Honda badge would fit.

JDM doesn’t appear to be any different than the USA version, heh.

Shared the J’s Racing Grill instructions and gave Yasu permission to use it for future customers.

Yasu responded by letting me have the Honda badge for free and tossed in some J’s Racing stickers, heh.


D42CCEF5-D93B-4540-8FAB-04EA22CA8A06.jpeg

Did some trial mock ups. Here is the JDM badge on the J’s grill.

Have gotten used to the darker look, so the red looks a little out of place to my eyes now, heh. Will likely go with black chrome or try tinting the badge as My buddy hpbyhermann suggested.

Scratched the license plate relocator In favor of the tow hook and tossed it in the hatch. If I get pulled over for it, at least I can say something like, “sorry officer, went to the track recently and forgot to put it back... have it in the trunk, will do it right now sir!” 😂


22D10A38-44EF-465C-B499-69CEBC75C768.png

Here’s another mock up using the J’s Racing banner with red badge. Stuck it on temporarily using painter’s tape, then slightly edited the photo.


33B43F90-6D0C-45B6-A0E0-C3114649F056.jpeg

And J’s banner without the badge. Not big on stickers and haven’t applied any to this point, including the Voltex end plate stickers.

That said, the banner doesn’t look bad and would eliminate the need for the front visor which partially blocks the 400mm Broadway mirror, heh.
Emblem 👍
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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  • #294
6319B573-F610-4F29-8503-99A859F3AC20.jpeg

Had (2) track days on 2/16/20 and 4/3/20, but haven’t driven the car much overall due to recent projects.... But decided to check the Radium oil catch cans anyway. First was the PCV version, which is always a carpal tunnel inducing endeavor to remove and reinstall. I plan to install Radium’s remote petcock drain kit later today.


5142FCC2-1838-4B2B-A67B-D5CCA201D9F1.jpeg

As expected, here is what was in the PCV side..


8AAA6581-D5E3-4C9B-B934-76CD8EDB775C.jpeg

Was going to stop there, because I‘ve never caught anything in the CCV oil catch can. Boosted180sx suggested checking it anyway. Sure thing, why not?

Despite how this looks, the CCV is easier to unscrew than the PCV side.


3B4D1C2C-23B9-4D94-A249-6BAC6A7E2172.jpeg

Whoa!!! The CCV oil catch can did collect some oil! What the heck? Was totally surprised (and happy) to see this.

The way the Radium CCV catch can hoses are routed, I didn’t see how oil could ever pass through the CCV and mistakenly thought it a waste of money and have stated that when asked about it.

I stand corrected.

Boosted180sx explained under high RPM use like what occurs at the track, a vacuum is created and oil can get sucked up. The oil caught would have passed through the inlet and probably fouled the intercooler.

Glad to have the Radium dual oil catch can system after all:bow:


9A2962A5-48EF-4F16-9306-7854A119D2FC.jpeg

While the CCV was easier to unscrew than the PCV can, it was impossible to reinstall. Came up with this alternate method:

Remove the (2) mounting bolts.


679BE637-05D6-4C53-B31C-B0F5E029B177.jpeg

With those out, there is plenty of play in the hoses to lift the CCV can up and out. It’s really easy to service it this way.


9B94775C-7278-49B1-A2E3-403DDBCB5B8F.jpeg

Close up of the Radium catch can internals and dipstick. Can see oil residue on the baffle.


99D56603-BFE2-45FE-BABF-BB555899A35D.jpeg

So much easier to thread the can back on like this. I’m a firm believer in the motto: “smarter not harder” 😎


706BAC07-EE49-4FCB-A6CF-19D1A2AB38D1.jpeg

Re-applied anti-seize to the mounting bolts then reinstalled the catch can.


160AE0FE-5902-4E41-9A4C-AA0A2C949D50.jpeg

Then torqued to Radium’s suggested 95 ft-lbs. CCV oil catch can ready for my next track day which will be 5/17/20 at Streets of Willow. :drive:
 
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squirrel04

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6319B573-F610-4F29-8503-99A859F3AC20.jpeg

Had (2) track days on 2/16/20 and 4/3/20, but haven’t driven the car much overall due to recent projects.... But decided to check the Radium oil catch cans anyway. First was the PCV version, which is always a carpal tunnel inducing endeavor to remove reinstall. I plan to install Radium’s remote petcock drain kit later today.


5142FCC2-1838-4B2B-A67B-D5CCA201D9F1.jpeg

As expected, here is what was in the PCV side..


8AAA6581-D5E3-4C9B-B934-76CD8EDB775C.jpeg

Was going to stop there, because I‘ve never caught anything in the CCV oil catch can. Boosted180sx suggested checking it anyway. Sure thing, why not?

Despite how this looks, the CCV is easier to unscrew than the PCV side.


3B4D1C2C-23B9-4D94-A249-6BAC6A7E2172.jpeg

Whoa!!! The CCV oil catch can did collect some oil! What the heck? Was totally surprised (and happy) to see this.

The way the Radium CCV catch can hoses are routed, I didn’t see how oil could ever pass through the CCV and mistakenly thought it a waste of money and have stated that when asked about it.

I stand corrected.

Boosted180sx explained under high RPM use like what occurs at the track, a vacuum is created and oil can get sucked up. The oil caught would have passed through the inlet and probably fouled the intercooler.

Glad to have the Radium dual oil catch can system after all:bow:


9A2962A5-48EF-4F16-9306-7854A119D2FC.jpeg

While the CCV was easier to unscrew than the PCV can, it was impossible to reinstall. Came up with this alternate method:

Remove the (2) mounting bolts.


679BE637-05D6-4C53-B31C-B0F5E029B177.jpeg

With those out, there is plenty of play in the hoses to lift the CCV can up and out. It’s really easy to service it this way.


9B94775C-7278-49B1-A2E3-403DDBCB5B8F.jpeg

Close up of the Radium catch can internals and dipstick. Can see oil residue on the baffle.


99D56603-BFE2-45FE-BABF-BB555899A35D.jpeg

So much easier to thread the can back on like this. I’m a firm believer in the motto: “smarter not harder” 😎


706BAC07-EE49-4FCB-A6CF-19D1A2AB38D1.jpeg

Re-applied anti-seize to the mounting bolts then reinstalled the catch can.


160AE0FE-5902-4E41-9A4C-AA0A2C949D50.jpeg

Then torqued to Radium’s suggested 95 ft-lbs. CCV oil catch can ready for my next track day which will be 5/17/20 at Streets of Willow. :drive:
well damn, I had ordered the mishimoto one because of your write up on the CCV can not serving a purpose 😂 oh well 😔
 
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fatherpain

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Ack sorry about that squirrel04. Prior to the track, I mistakenly thought it didn’t do a thing. :doh:

For normal driving, the CCV can probably wouldn’t do much. I didn’t find anything in over 5k miles of moderate level daily driving, whereas there was plenty on the PCV side.

If you’re planning to track or drive hard, the Radium CCV can be purchased separately, though it might make more sense to pickup their dual setup and resell the Mishi. Just looked at the site and Mishi doesn’t offer a CCV option.
 
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squirrel04

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Ack sorry about that squirrel04. Prior to the track, I mistakenly thought it didn’t do a thing. :doh:

For normal driving, the CCV can probably wouldn’t do much. I didn’t find anything in over 5k miles of moderate level daily driving, whereas there was plenty on the PCV side.

If you’re planning to track or drive hard, the Radium CCV can be purchased separately, though it might make more sense to pickup their dual setup and resell the Mishi. Just looked at the site and Mishi doesn’t offer a CCV option.
lol it’s all good.
 
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fatherpain

fatherpain

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21D4FF0B-8FDF-4AF5-B265-0402B8DEE152.jpeg

Heard some faint scraping while turning right, so raised the car and pulled the front wheels for a quick inspection.

This brake line rub is old from when first downsized to 18’s and the line was not properly adjusted. Caught it right away otherwise it would have been very dangerous. The damage is cosmetic, the metal braided line itself is still good. Will replace next time the fluid is replaced.


CC22678A-5E60-46D9-BFCB-24847BC1C11D.jpeg

Found this rock stuck between the brake dust shield. Removed it using a pick.

Was a little surprised to find it, as rocks, dust and brake squeal haven’t been an issue since switching to Girodisc front rotors and spraying the pads each week with the pressure washer.

There was no evidence of rubbing anywhere else, so pretty sure this was the source of the noise. Easy fix.


3911730F-64D7-48EF-9D51-D680E7FF54AD.jpeg

Also noticed the paint on the HKS oil cooler mesh was taking a beating. Will repaint or take it for a powder coat at some point.
 
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fatherpain

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78224662-01DE-4BD3-A21B-674D7A5E0E86.jpeg

Though not impossible, unscrewing the Radium PCV oil catch can to drain, then putting it back again is a pain.

To save my wrists, broke down and purchased Radium’s remote petcock drain valve. Don’t like the idea of spending $30 for essentially $5 worth of parts, but I’ve gone this far already so why not 🙄?

Besides the kit saves the time and hassle of procuring the parts separately.

Radium says the instructions are online, but they are not. It’s a simple install however.


F2AEE340-A0D8-41D4-9758-0111DEA24B72.jpeg

With the can removed, install this fitting and tighten. It has an o-ring to seal it.


DB3437BC-28A0-494D-AE2F-A20FE7D4699E.jpeg

The rest the kit consists of this directional plastic valve that operates 1/4 turn open and close, a length of hose and (2) hose clamps. The kit really needs (3) clamps if one were to want to run the hose to the bottom of the car..


FA4F732C-54B8-447A-8916-C528B3E52419.jpeg

Opted to go with this configuration and skip the extra length of hose, otherwise would have to raise the car each time wanted to drain the contents.


B14291A1-042F-4CE4-8172-71008194CDC7.jpeg

Radium PCV catch can remote petcock drain installed. Nice red handle for visibility and operates smoothly. Will hold an empty plastic bottle under the drain when it’s time to empty the can. Much easier and highly recommended for those rocking a Radium PCV can. I won’t miss messing with the PCV can at all, heh.

As previously mentioned, the CCV version is really easy to empty if remove the mounting bolts so this drain kit isn’t necessary for that can.
 
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fatherpain

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Took my car to check if the wheels are still balanced and the shop found the (2) rims on the drivers side are bent.

This was the side I inadvertently went off the track and into the dirt @95mph on my last track outing. Doh!

Such a bummer. Ordered a replacement set from System Motorsports. Same exact rims, will replace the bad ones and leave (2) spares. Hopefully they will arrive by July.

Might have to look into cheaper rims to take to the track :(
 
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