Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

fatherpain

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Hello fellow enthusiasts,

For the past 18 years or so, I’ve putt-putted around in a 1996 Honda Accord 2dr EX coupe, which I picked up used for $3,500...pretty cool it has racked up over 354k miles and still drives ok..


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The great thing about this car was not needing to wash it beyond wiping the windows at the gas station...and also not getting upset on the rare occasions something like this might happen...

My sons often asked why I kept driving it and every time my answer was:

“I really like not having a car payment, insurance is cheap and the purpose of a car is to get you from point A to point B”

Well they kept asking....and after awhile, I remembered loving cars growing up and thought “Geez, when did I become my dad?”

I remember reading about all the cool cars at my buddy’s house when I was a teenager. He had subscriptions to Road and Track, Motor Trend and other auto magazines...this was way back in 1985, before Internet and I was just barely getting my driver’s license. I had all kinds of crazy kid dreams of what kind of car my parents might buy me...like the Mazda RX-7 or maybe a Porsche 924..

Reality kicked in and my first car was my mom’s 1976 Pontiac Lemans (ughh) followed by a 1987 Buick Century (double ugh). My other cars after that were a 1979 Toyota Celica, 1987 Tercel, 1985 Nissan pickup and a 1996 base model Acura Integra. Picked the Integra up new and got into car audio...but parted ways a few years later when I could no longer afford it and BK’d.

Rewind to late last year. Was pushing my wife to get a minivan to replace her RAV4... she countered by saying I should do something for myself for once and get a new car.

Not knowing what was out there, I started researching cars...then saw the rave reviews the Civic Type R was receiving. Had never considered owning a civic, but this one checked all the boxes. Love Japanese cars and this was the closest thing to owning the kind of car that was always just a pipe dream...like the 93-95 Mazda RX7 or the 98-02 Integra Type R...or an S2000, but better for my current situation because it had (4) seats for the family and $35.6k MRSP didn’t sound too guilt inducing..


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Picked up a CW 2018 CTR December 1, 2018 for $41k tax, license etc. out the door so paid some ADM.

Found and joined this website a few weeks later. Spent some time lurking, caught mod fever after (6) months stock and wanted to do my own maintenance...I’ve also met and received help from some very cool people along the way, which all has increased my connection and appreciation for this car. I am very appreciative for all the information shared on CivicX.

Can say I’ve gone from being a car n00b... to well still being a car n00b ;)

I daily my car and have begun taking it to the track to improve my driving skills and have taken my oldest son with me. Maybe I’ll let him drive it there also.

In creating this thread, my goal is to document progress and consolidate my previous posts into (1) where it can serve as quick reference for others and also myself. Will import content from other threads so it’s all here and my thoughts of each mod added + DIY things I’ve learned along the way.


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Car as of 10/16/20

Hope you enjoy reading this thread and find some useful information. Please feel free to comment or offer suggestions ;)

Table of Contents:

Year one wrap up
Post #61

ENGINE/DRIVETRAIN:
COOLING MODS:
SUSPENSION/WHEELS/BRAKES:
  • Girodisc brake pads Post #9
  • Rear brake pad and caliper change. Post #11, #13, #14, #15, #16, #17
  • Sakebomb SST brakelines Post #18, #192
  • Brake Safety tip when downsizing from 20’s to 18’s Post #91
  • Gyrodisc front rotors and Front pad change Post #19, #20, #21, #22, #33
  • Brake Bleeding Sequence Post #23
  • Brake bleeding (1) person method w/Speedi-bleed Post #476
  • Brake Bedding Procedure Post #23
  • wheel lug torque specs Post #23
  • Rays/Volk TE37SL 18 x 9.5 +45 pressed double black Post #66, #75, #77, #88, #93, #147, #217
  • Project Kics Iconix M14 x 1.5 Black lugs Post #69, #88, #147
  • Woolies and wheel cleaning Post #80, #217
  • Kics Koyo el hub centric rings Post #91
  • Bridgestone RE71R 265-35-18 Post #88, #92, #199, #203, #311
  • Rays center caps and wheel adapters Post #220
  • J’s Racing titanium wheel lugs Post #340
  • JRZ RS Pro coilovers w/ quick disconnect rear reservoir hoses **ready to install**
  • HKS error cancellers **ready to install**
  • RV6 Compliance Mount **ready to install**
  • RV6 Rear Sway Bar With Billet Endlinks **ready to install**
  • RV6 Rear Camber Arm **ready to install**
  • RV6 Rear Toe Control Arms **ready to install**
EXTERIOR:
INTERIOR:
MAINTENANCE TASKS
TRACKDAY RELATED:
MISC:
  • Get your Civic Owner’s Manual Post #179
  • EZ Car Lift w/extension ramp and xm69 Post #274
ACCESSORIES:

Various tools, torque wrenches
Stealth Portable air compressor

FUTURE:

AIM Solo 2DL- lap timer and Smarty cam
Oil temp/pressure/water temp gauges.
Girodisc rear rotors
Blackvue dashcam
Radium Universal Fuel Surge Tank FSTR with regulated FPR #20-0130-01

Track days: 6

Big Willow 2/16/20 AROSC
Big Willow 4/3/20 Speed District
Streets of Willow 5/17/20 Speed District
Button Willow 5/22/20 Speed District
Streets of Willow 8/22/20 LA Shelby Club
Big Willow 10/11/20 AROSC
—————————-
Streets of Willow 10/31/20 Speed Ventures
Chuckwalla 11/21/20 Speed Ventures



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fatherpain

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The first mod done was having a PPF clear bra installed on the front + side mirrors, full ceramic coat and window tint applied to all except the front windows. The total damage was around $3,600 :(

The work was done by Polished Protection. They have (2) SoCal locations. One in Anaheim and another in Signal Hill. Went with their gold package. Coating was applied when the car was (1) week old. Was skeptical of their offer of a “paint correction” for $200 so declined...In hindsight I wish I had opted for this. Process took (4) days. Also in order to maintain their warranty, you must agree to a $200 annual inspection and service. I’ll be due for this every December :(

Had never heard of PPF clear bras or ceramic coatings at the time.. just did it because my boss has nice cars and recommended doing it.

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If your car is a long term keeper, I believe this to be an essential mod. Just washed this weekend. Still looks new and no rock chips after (10) months of ownership and 21,400 miles.

Love this mod. The only downside is you must only use a pressure washer, microfiber wash mitts and use the (2) bucket washing method. No more drive thru or hand carwashes.

Kudos to those able to do this mod yourselves...would save a lot of $$$. I might try learning for the next time.
 
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fatherpain

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After enjoying the car in stock form for (6) months, the first performance mod was an aftermarket exhaust. Went with the Sequence Manufacturing Titanium Exhaust.

There is an extensive thread on it here:

https://www.civicx.com/threads/sequence-manufacturing-titanium-exhaust.17400/

In it, Boosted180sx described it as being a “gentlemen’s exhaust”.. I definitely concur...not over the top, but terrific.

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It’s a beautiful 3” valved exhaust that retains the OEM (3) pipe look.


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This is the exhaust when it was brand new... I’m going to have to spend time cleaning it to try to get it to look like this again.


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Flow at low boost 0-6 psi passes through mufflers and exit through the (2) outer pipes. Boost @7psi and above will actuate a butterfly valve in the center pipe and bypass the mufflers. There is a vacuum line attached that runs to the engine. Exhaust is quiet and low key when cruising and taking it easy and loud when you want it to be. The exhaust note was good but really came alive after an aftermarket intake was added.


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Can see the mufflers when car is raised.. the exhaust was installed in June by “Muffler Man” in Orange...this was before having a EZ Carlift, otherwise would have attempted the install myself.


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The owner of Muffler Man said he would not have accepted the job had he known it was titanium, because his shop could not weld ti if there was a problem...


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No worries the fit was perfect.. He was impressed


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After 4 months part of the piping has burned to a beautiful blue color. A shame can only see from underneath. Joe Simpson’s craftsmanship is truly top notch. Could be wishful thinking, but I am convinced the tone is subtly changing as time passes... does this happen?


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This exhaust utilizes slip joints held together with clamps... whereas the OEM exhaust is a single long piece. Inspected it a few weeks ago and noticed indications of leaks.


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Cleaned and re-tightened each clamp. Got about 1 flat on each joint. If have you have an aftermarket exhaust, I suggest inspecting periodically.


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A post adjustment was probably overdue after it had seen heat after the initial install.


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Cleaned and adjusted. Will inspect again soon to see if this took care of all the leaks.
 
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fatherpain

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Next mod was an Eventuri Intake. This was my first attempt at a DIY mod.

Installation was straightforward and interesting. Was my first DIY and had fun doing it. Took about 3.5 hours though. Would go much quicker if had to do again now that I’ve gone through it once and know what to expect. Probably can be done in an hour. A YouTube video said I’d only need a 10mm and flat screwdriver. Ended up using:

10mm and 7mm combo wrench
10mm and 7mm nutdrivers
10mm socket
Phillips and flat screwdriver
Exacto knife - I made some incisions on the rubber air seal that goes on top of the air box. In hindsight I may not have needed to do that.
Needle nose vice grip pliers. (To remove a security fitting on a factory hose clamp that needs to be removed)
1/8” Allen key and socketed Allen head + maybe a couple other sizes.
Kroil (or any other penetrant loosener)
A 1/2 and 1/4 Ratchet
Long and short 1/2 extension
Prybar to seat the lower rubber boot underneath the air box.

Eventuri Intake official instructions: http://www.eventuri.net/wp-content/uploads/Honda-FK8-Instructions

Some install discussion on this thread: https://www.civicx.com/threads/eventuri-intake-feedback.32125/page-3

In that thread, we were discussing whether it was necessary to cut the included side scoop to install, as it is difficult to fit because the cooling hoses are hard to move. This is how to install it without having to cut or notch the scoop:


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Remove this bolt for the cooling hose bracket . I’m using a screw driver to point it out, but it uses a 12mm combo or socket.


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Remove this bolt that holds the other cooling hose bracket.


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And remove this bolt that holds the ground strap or whatever it is.


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Side scoop installed. With the bolts that hold the cooling hose brackets removed the side scoop can be pushed into place. Note this picture is with the (2) bolts reinstalled but not tightened yet

It was pretty difficult to get the bolts reinstalled with the scoop in place and trying to line up the bolt holes at same time. There is not a lot of room to do this. Fortunately I won’t have to do this again for awhile. For some reason it seemed harder to do this time around.

It is also important to make sure the black rubber round seal properly seats to the bottom of the airbox when its in place.

Notice the transmission fill plug on top right marked with the dark blue dashes. The ECU and airbox must be removed to access this when it’s time to change transmission fluid.


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Installation tip, connect and tighten this piece then inserting to the silicone tube and securing with the hose clamp...


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Here’s the reason. It would be impossible to get a wrench on and tighten that rear bolt and nut when the piece is fully installed to the silicone with the hose clamp in place.


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Eventuri’s instructions say to install the side lid. I found this to be impossible without removing the


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Here is the lid installed with one screw and ECU in place. No way to reach the remaining side or lower bolts holes to insert or tighten a bolt.


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Was able to install the filter access side cover with the ECU removed, Pretty sure will have to do this every time the intake filter needs to be cleaned.


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Close-up view. How the heck would anyone be able to tighten the rear nut in place?


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Unfortunately, the air box seal has some fitment issues. These gaps do not move. There is a small metal bracket attached to the left side of carbon fiber airbox and it’s rigid preventing a good seal. Probably Could stuff something in it or apply silicone to prevent hot air from getting in. There is another small gap on the right where the plastic holding clip doesn’t keep the rubber down. That same metal bracket prevents it from doing so. Here are (2) close up photos on either side of said gaps. This could also mean I didn’t get the airbox fully seated. Checked it however and it seems correct.


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Metal bracket can be seen clearly from this angle. Can also see the small incisions in the rubber seal I made to help re-attach the plastic holding clips. In hindsight it may not have been necessary, but doesn’t hurt anything.


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Success. Eventuri intake install complete with ECU re-installed!!


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Was greeted by a bunch of random Check Engine Light (CELS) messages on startup due to disconnecting the battery terminals for the ECU removal. My good buddy @boosted180sx said it would go away on its own.. and it did!


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Also received this message. Followed instructions and it also cleared.

Observations: Revs are now deeper, louder and more aggressive sounding throughout the acceleration range. There is also the “whiiish” when the turbo is drawing air under moderate load and above. Can hear these sounds clearly with windows rolled up, which is how I normally prefer to drive.

Throttle became more responsive. Car seems quicker and HP feels like it increased some. Although I have no dyno or data log to support.

Eventuri and retailers claim an increase of 18-22 HP. Can’t say if it’s that much or not. Still need a tune for the full benefit.

Overall the Eventuri made the car louder through its range and helped the Sequence exhaust note come “alive”. The transition to full open on the valved exhaust is much more seemless. I think the boost actuated valve that bypasses the mufflers at 7psi opens sooner and is more sensitive...Car sounds excellent and the fun factor greatly increased.

Pros: Sounds great and better volume, perceived throttle and HP gains, accurate fit and looks great. Definitely recommend getting the upgraded silicone hose. Easy to pull out and reinstall when doing subsequent mods.

Cons: Online instructions left out some details that would have made the install easier. High price, however worth it, if fits within your budget.

Verdict: Thumbs up. No regrets.
 
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I82MUCH

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Very clean dude! Jealous of that intake!
 
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fatherpain

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Next mod was an intercooler. Originally paid for the HKS w/piping kit...however, after a few months got tired of waiting so asked to switch to Wagner Tuning instead and [email protected] took care of me.


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The idea of a German intercooler in a Honda seems a little weird, but Wagner’s offerings for other platforms have strong reviews. Price was the same.


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Tube and fin. Frame is solid but the fins are very delicate and soft, as opposed to the rigid fins of the OEM. Was concerned at first, but have grown to appreciate this design, as the fins don’t seem to get permanently distorted or mashed when struck by rocks. Dislodge rocks and fins go back to original shape.


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The inlet end has a built in louvre to ensure air is spread evenly.


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Side by side with the stock IC.


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Another angle. The Wagner is pretty massive...it might be the largest intercooler currently offered for the CTR.


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The Wagner comes with (2) silicone hoses, 4 hose clamps, (2) edge protectors, 2 bolts, manual in German and a inlet guide scoop that attaches to the front of the intercooler. Used google translate to convert German to English. The instructions were pretty spotty. Pretty much have to figure things out yourself.


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The instructions don’t say anything, but it is important to note there are (2) hose clamp sizes. The larger clamp goes to the intercooler. The smaller one goes to the engine.

Found this out the hard way after installing the small one to the IC connection then noticed the larger one. Had to pull off and switch.


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Edge protectors slide on top and bottom of the inlet vane.


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This was my first time replacing an intercooler, or removing a front bumper. Fortunately there are some great youtube how to videos out there. This one helped me:

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These (2) clips on top of the headlights were the trickiest to disengage, then the bumper came right off.


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There are a bazillion plastic fasteners and screws to remove. Several broke so had to pick up more from Honda.


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In case anyone is considering an intercooler upgrade...Definitely need a way to raise your car to get access underneath to route the hoses to the engine terminations


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The fitment of the intercooler is perfect..Almost too perfect. Initially had trouble positioning the core to where needed to be, but was doing it alone and using a headlamp in the dark. With (1) post installed, couldn’t swing the other post where it needed to be without the core piping hitting the radiator behind it...first fear was maybe this German IC was designed for the euro version and the dimensions were off... kept trying and it eventually went in.... A 2nd person would have made it easier. Can see in the photo some of the fins got squished when it was resting in my lap.. but they straighten back out afterwards.

if considering a radiator upgrade down the road, need to verify the radiator width is compatible with this intercooler because it’s piping sandwich’s the radiator and there isn’t much tolerance.


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This kit re-uses the stock intercooler mounting brackets.


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Passenger side silicone hose connection to the intercooler. Getting the hose onto the piping was challenging. There isn’t much room to get your hands in there to slide it on. Used some kroil on the pipe fitting to help... but the hose slid on fairly easy once was able to get it engaged. After finally getting the hose on, this is where I realized there were (2) diffferent sized hose clamps and had to switch them.

Alternately, might be able to put the hoses on before fitting the core, then fish the hoses thru to the engine bay at the same time, But that definitively would require a 2nd person and you’d have to guesstimate to make sure the other end of the hose faces the right direction to connect to the engine terminations..

When the time comes to remove the intercooler for cleaning, will try leaving these hoses on and just disconnect from the engine.


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Positioned the hose clamp where it could be reached with an extension to tighten. Still passenger side view.


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Underneath view of where the passenger side hose connects to the engine. Uses the smaller hose clamp.


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The access to the driver side is better, though getting the hose to slide onto the piping is equally tough. The challenge is to get the hose started to the pipe with not much room. It slides on fairly easily once you get it though. Was very thankful for that. Again wetted the pipe with some kroil to help the hose slide. Pushed the hose from underneath the car and had my 12 year old son tell when it was fully on.


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This is where the driver side hose connects to the engine. Had to pull the airbox, disconnect battery and ECU to gain access.


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Ended up trimming the passenger side rubber seal for a better fit. Cut the driver’s side off completely.


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Pic of the Wagner Intercooler installed (before trimming the rubber pieces). Can see the inlet scoop attached to the front.


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Here is the condition of the OEM Intercooler after about 20k miles. Note the numerous mashed fins and debris.


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With this in mind, inspected the fins after a couple weeks and found several small pebbles lodged inside the fins... picked them out and the fins returned to their original shape. Takes about a minute.


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This tool was just long enough to reach through the plastic grill and reach the fins. I inspect the intercooler now at each wash. With any luck, will be able to keep it reasonably clean this way.


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Digging the appearance of the black intercooler. The kit does not include any kind of stencil so it’s purely black.

Have read some comments about the black colored intercoolers looking raggedy after it gets dirty, paint gets scuffed and fins get mashed.

It’s been a little over (3) weeks and still looks nice. Hoping by picking it clean at each wash it will remain that way. Also as mentioned the fins are very flexible. Thinking it was made this way to minimize permanent deforming like seen on the harder OEM fins...time will tell.

As mentioned before the Wagner probably has the largest volume of all the current intercooler options... not sure if this is good or bad. Noticed turbo lag seemed to increase abit and the sound of the Eventuri intake softened a little bit... which I wasn’t crazy about at first...then did Perrin’s ACT sensor mod a day later and the throttle response improved, so I’m happy with it now.

Boosted180sx suggested upgrading the intercooler and I was happy to follow his advice. So far, the car pulls without a noticeable degradation of power, like I was experiencing over the summer...that said, temps have come down here in SoCal, so that may also be a contributing factor.

Car is not currently tuned. So looking forward to seeing how the car feels once I am able to follow through with that.
 
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fatherpain

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This arrived in the mail today. Went home at lunch to pick it up.


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Tommy Kaira Titan Baby shift knob. M10 x 1.5”


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Burned titanium with raw finish on top. Went with black lettering and red emblem to keep the Type R interior theme....even though it seems these shift knobs are often used for Nissans.


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Diameters is about the same... though it is a little taller and is weighted at 270g.


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This is the color inside the car. The window tint kills some of the color **sigh**


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The knob threads are countersunk. Did not expect this. Hopefully it will install with no issues. I think the effect will be the knob sits lower. Looking forward to installing and trying out.
 
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fatherpain

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  • #8
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Here is the TK shift knob installed. Due to the countersunk thread, it sits really low on the shifter. A little too low imo. This is on a Acuity fully adjustable shifter with height setting at (2). Still experimenting with the height. Shift knob knob feels good shifting from the side or from up top. The additional weight helps, though I am surprised how nicely weighted the OEM is.


B57E5A33-BD79-4625-847A-80B4E07AC3AA.jpeg

Here is where it would sit if the threads began at the bottom of the knob, instead of being recessed. This would also permit the boot collar from snapping into place. Unfortunately the burnt finish is kind of lost in the knob’s shadow.


31EB8574-3F48-463A-8F83-6D4EED1B8D8E.jpeg

This would be the difference in height, if screwed onto the same shifter threads. The OEM knob threads begin at its’ bottom...where as the TK threads begin at the bottom of the silver hemisphere.


05AAC1F3-7C8A-4327-BF46-BD4B93110056.jpeg
Side by side


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Top view


0DE9ED22-7C7D-4998-A07F-ED2E575A7B05.jpeg

Contemplating having a brass threaded insert machined to raise the height to a normal level..

Conversely can increase the height of the Acuity.
 
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Getting some noise from the rear brakes while driving and not applying pressure. Pretty sure it’s the wear indicators and not dust or rocks.

Am at 22,300 miles or so.

F7020582-692A-4E36-B43A-30B4BF0404C4.jpeg

Gonna try some of these “magic pads” from girodisc for the rears. Hopefully will have some time this weekend to try.


D31AFD9D-D7EB-4B07-A6D6-E57D4D32E25A.jpeg

These Magic Pads are much less dense than the girodisc S/S front pads. Thickness with the shim is 15mm per Girodisc tech support. Will measure to make sure.

Read in another thread someone had problems with Carbotechs @ 15.25mm so hopefully I don’t run into the same issue.

***UPDATE***
So far no issues to report with either the Girodisc magic pads (rear) or SS pads (front).

Girodisc has since made SS pads available for the rear since I purchased the magic pads. Will probably switch to SS when the time comes to replace the rear pads again.
 
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Went ahead and added a threaded brass bushing to the TK shift knob. The engagement threads now are flush with the bottom of the knob, so it sits higher and permits the shift boot to snap in place like it’s supposed to. The bushing gives additional weight, so the knob feels much more substantial now. If I find the knob is too high, will replace with a shorter bushing.

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This is how the knob was originally.
 
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Whelp...did a completely boneheaded move last week and screwed up the driver’s side rear caliper by second guessing myself and exiting brake maintenance mode on the Autel 200 without having the caliper installed to the pads. With no pad to stop it, The E-brake pushed the piston to infinity. Ah well.... live and learn. Fortunately my nephew on my wife’s side is a Honda Technician, so was able to get replacement at a discount. $252 instead of $450. He will help me install and check everything out when it arrives.

C6AC52AB-2766-4CB7-827E-C0792161D9BD.jpeg


Since I’m this far, ordered some SST brakelines so will post a photo tutorial for rear brakes and SST brake line install and bleed when everything is back together.
 
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Your thread has become one of the few NSFW threads with all the hi-res pictures. Keep up the good work!
 
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96CEAB5F-D744-465C-915A-3FF2A089E8E6.jpeg

Car had been sitting disabled for (2) weeks ever since I jacked up my rear caliper...so gave it a wash. Removed all the wheels to install Sakebomb SST brakelines, Girodisc pads, front rotors and replace the rear brake caliper that I totally messed up...


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New OEM rear caliper *sigh*


C397ADDD-4E23-4E0D-9417-7167C9707A42.png

My nephew is a Honda service tech and got me out of a serious jam. System wasn’t letting us get back to brake maintenance mode. Fortunately he is really sharp and was able to get it to reset.


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He also showed me how to install the new rear caliper, rear pads and rear brake lines. We ran out of time, so will continue with the fronts tomorrow.
 
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Before my self inflicted catastrophic rear brake mishap, had intended to post a walkthrough of my experience changing the rear brake pads to clarify for others. Will do so now.. but it will be a (2) stager. What I did myself pre-goof....Then what my nephew, the Honda Tech did to complete the job. Will post a better one next time when the next brake pad change is in order, but for now this will have to do. Hope this helps someone:


A4AFD82D-8CF5-473D-A52C-5D9518BC7D21.jpeg

You’ll need a brake caliper tool like this, to twist and compress the piston. It costs about $20 on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/8MILELAKE-Br...per+tool&qid=1573165651&sprefix=brake+&sr=8-3

Have seen mention this can also be done using an angle grinder tightening tool or done by the traditional C-Clamp/brake pad method. My nephew, uses this same exact tool listed above so I’m recommending this also.


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These are the tools needed... disregard the tools with a blue X. I’ll post an updated photo in the near future.

Brake caliper windback tool with “K2” head
Autel AP200 ODB scanner
Impact gun with 22MM impact socket
3/8 Drive Ratchet with 7mm and 5mm hex head
Flat screw driver
A metal pick
Wire brush
Torque Wrench 94 ft-lbs for wheel nuts
Extraction pump to remove excess brake fluid
Paper towels or shop rag
Brake cleaner
Brake caliper grease
Kroil - liquid penetrant
A lift or way to raise the rear of the car.
Wheel chocks if front wheels will remain on the ground to eliminate chance it will roll. Leave car in gear.


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Step 1. Raise your car, ensure the electronic parking brake is OFF. Remove your wheels. Wheel chocks not needed when using a lift.


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Follow the Autel’s instructions to download the Autel and Diag-Asia App. Register and bind to your phone, and download the Honda library. Each Autel gets (1) lifetime library good for any make of choosing. Additional libraries are available at 1 year subscriptions for $18.99 to $21.99 for each manufacturer. Rather than doing that, I bought a 2nd Autel to pair permanently with my wife’s Toyota.

With the ignition ON, but engine OFF reach under the driver’s dash and plug the Autel to the ODB port.
It should turn green when connected.


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The Autel will switch to blue when it is successfully communicating via your phone to the car. I had to play with it a little to get it to start communicating, but it eventually did.


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Open the Autel App. Click service. You must have the Diag-Asia app installed for it to work.


DBA203A8-7438-4CC1-9608-26FD669CE578.jpeg

In the service section, click EPB to retract the electronic parking brake


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Verify the conditions are met then click OK. You will immediately hear the electronic parking brakes retract.


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This message will let you know you are now in rear brake maintenance mode. Click Ok.

****IMPORTANT**** under NO circumstances tell the Autel to return the EPB to normal mode unless the brake calipers and brake pads are fully reinstalled... otherwise the EPB will tell the piston to push to infinity with nothing to stop it and you will be screwed.


DF1640A9-9F0E-4165-B267-97636B7651F0.jpeg

I’m a bonehead and can laugh about it now... but it wasn’t funny when it happened, heh. The replacement part is normally around $460 or so + labor to install and correct the EPB feedback loop which could have been a seriously expensive repair at the dealer. I am super lucky to have such a cool nephew to get it at cost ($250) and help me out.
 
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Lift the hood and remove the brake fluid cap. You may need to use an extraction pump to remove brake fluid when compressing the cylinders to avoid spills.


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After removing the wheels this is what is there.


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Use the screwdriver to pry off the retaining clip


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Like this.


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Pry off the (2) plastic caps behind the caliper


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And remove them.


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Spray a little bit of kroil penetrant on the (2) silver pins holding the caliper in place.


A96D32D5-D926-493C-BD27-831505D3BD53.jpeg
use the 7mm hex socket and ratchet to loosen the (2) pins


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Then remove both pins.


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This is the hardware removed so far. Retaining clip, (2) plastic covers and (2) caliper pins


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Disconnect the electrical connector to the E-Brake motor. A metal pick works nicely to depress the release tab. This is to provide more room to move the caliper aside. This step may not be completely necessary but is what my nephew does.


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A pick with a bent tip works great.


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Now the caliper can be lifted off and set to the side. Note the 2 recesses on the silver piston. This is what the K2 head prongs will engage when it’s time to compress.


7A337B65-142A-4326-B579-3763242715B5.jpeg
Remove the outside pad


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Then remove the inside pad. Note the direction it is installed and the location of the wear indicator clip.


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This is the condition of the OEM pads after 22k miles. Normal driving, no hard braking and zero track days *smh*


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Rear Rotor with caliper pulled back and pads removed. Looks to be in good shape. Should probably measure thickness to see how much life is left but don’t have a digital caliper yet.

View attachment 184210
 
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