forgoti'm about to attempt this. anyone have a part number for the green clips?
No, I try not to disconnect battery unless absolutely necessary. E.g. when messing with stuff that canāt be isolated by simply pulling a fuse.Did anyone of you guys disconnected the battery before hardwiring a dashcam? I did not because of the whole recalibration of the car.
Iām guessing you used a bolt with existing ground wires - like the one I found. Thats where you have to be careful. If youāre undoing a bolt that grounds a bunch of circuits, you dont really want to haphazardly and repeatedly disconnecting/reconnecting the ground to some/all of them while youāre jangling about with the bolt. Sounds like some of those ground wires were carrying current from live circuits. Hopefully it was just the lamp in the luggage compartment.But I'm asking because while securing the ground to a bolt, I had a some little sparks, which made me feel a bit uncomfortable.
Just your fingers, a little fiddling and patienceBased on the pictures we do not need a fuse tap? Am i right? I never done anything with the wiring and fuses before.
Euhm, make sure no exces wires are left in the trim and zip tie the exces.Hi all, I'm making an attempt to do this today, but I want to hear from those of you who have done it: have you noticed any new rattling from your camera wire after the installation? Wondering since it seems like the wire will not be secured after being tucked under the headliner.
well no kidding... I'm already aware of that. I'm talking about the rear camera cable that is blindly being tucked under the headliner. I want to know if I should take the whole interior apart to secure the wire like I do on A-pillar or not.Euhm, make sure no exces wires are left in the trim and zip tie the exces.
Logic....
This is what i said above....this is where i left my exces cable...and thats what i tied together.
This is something i wondered as well. Although I'm not sure if you'll be"unprotected" per se. Instead of blowing one fuse, if you happen to have a short on your camera wire you'll blow two fuses instead, although if you have a lower amp fuse in A/B it should blow first. Regardless of the orientation there will be at least one fuse between the power supply and the negative terminal, no?Love this write-up, but one thing I didn't see was any detail on the fuse tap. It's actually very important how you get power. If you do it wrong, you camera and car will not be protected by the fuse. You want to make sure you do not directly into the hot side of your fuse panel. There is a good video and discussion of various options in this video. Time should be good, discussion takes about 2 minutes.
If you are using a fuse tap, you are correct, not a problem which orientation you insert it. As you say, if you insert it 'backwards, then your camera will be protected by two fuses. And as the video says, your camera fuse needs to be less/lower than the one you are replacing. The taps I bought include 5amp fuses, so those will blow before the one being replaced. (My Blackvue says it uses 1-2 amps)This is something i wondered as well. Although I'm not sure if you'll be"unprotected" per se. Instead of blowing one fuse, if you happen to have a short on your camera wire you'll blow two fuses instead, although if you have a lower amp fuse in A/B it should blow first. Regardless of the orientation there will be at least one fuse between the power supply and the negative terminal, no?
Imagine if the polarity is swapped in the diagram. It'll have to go through C/D and A/B to get to E... In no orientation is the hot terminal connected to E directly bypassing any fuses. i could be wrong though. I'm not an electrician lol.