Zer0
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- Feb 20, 2017
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- Location
- Baltimore, MD
- Vehicle(s)
- '17 Civic Sport Hatch 6MT
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I've had some questions posting in other threads so I figured it best to make a thread about it. I tried to be as detailed as possible, but some pics are low light and thus the quality suffers. This thread will detail the full install (with pics) as well as guide you through what fuses to use and how to wire things.
Install time is 2-4 hours depending on skill level. It can be done in a much lazier way, but if you take the time to do the install properly it will come out VERY professional. My specific dashcam runs 24/7 whether the car is on or off and automatically records accidents and motion when parked. Once done, the only wires visible will be 1-2" going to each camera. Everything else is hidden in an OEM manner.
FOR FUSES/GROUND
See steps below for pics
Fuse #1 (Accessory) for SWITCHED FUSE. Turns on when car is on, off when car is off.
Fuse #16 (Door Lock) for ALWAYS ON FUSE. Always gets battery power, car on or off. Locked or unlocked.
Bolt securing fusebox to car body is a ground
REQUIRED TOOL LIST
-Trim prying tools
-8mm Socket
-10mm Socket
-Fuse Puller
-Flashlight
(OPTIONAL) Replacement Trim Clips
Honda OEM Part # 91560-SZW-003, $0.60ish each at dealer. You may break a few installing rear dash cam.
DASH CAM/HARDWIRE (OPTIONAL, Other models may apply)
Thinkware X500 w/ Rear Camera:
https://www.amazon.com/THINKWARE-X500D-Dashcam-Camera-MicroSD/dp/B0147I0JEW/
Thinkware Hardwire Kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Thinkware-TWA-SH-Hardwiring-Cable-X150/dp/B00NC062E8/
STEPS
Interior fusebox is located at the driver's left knee area right above the leftmost kick panel. To have 100% easy access, remove the knee trim panel as described below. NOTE: There are wires on the TOP LEFT and TOP RIGHT corner that must be unclipped to get the panel out of the way, these can be accessed after popping the trim panel itself away from the dash. It takes some muscle, pry from the sides. Red circle is fusebox location.
Locate "SRS AIRBAG" logo on A pillar driver's side trim. Push in HARD with fingers on this small square sized panel and an edge will bulge up. Once bulged up use a trim prying tool to pop out of place (you can also use a flat head screwdriver but it is very likely to gouge your plastic trim)
Under cover is an 8MM / Phillips head bolt. Remove it and put somewhere safe.
Once bolt is removed pry cover using hands towards middle of the car from the same location my fingers are, note that it will start to pry up and then "stop". There is a pop clip under the cover right at the red circle's position, slide fingers right next to it and simply pull more. Once this clip pops pull cover UP and TOWARDS YOU to unhook where it connects into the dash, and then it will be fully detached.
Head to the back of the car and open hatch. Top left corner of opened hatch, note rubber tube. This peels away from the body and has many wires running through it (for things such as brake lights). Pull it up using your hands.
Peek inside the hole this rubber tube was covering and follow the wire loom down it, notice it passes through a second piece of metal and then right next to what looks like a piece of cardboard, this is the inside edge of your headliner.
Go back to the inside of your car and notice the left interior where the D pillar trim panel meets the headliner. This is where you will pass the rear camera's wire through. The headliner is flexible so just kind of force your way in, push the wire through and up into the backside of the hole pictured above, then with your other hand reach into the hole left by the rubber tube removed a few steps ago and pull the wire.
Pass the wire through the rubber tube. My rear camera uses a micro-USB connection and it was tough but not impossible. BE PATIENT and bunch up the tube, shove the plug as far in as you can and then try to pull it through. This will take a while and is the most tedious part, but once the wire is through there is MORE than enough room inside the tube for the factory wiring and you'll have a super clean install!
Pull tube off from hatch panel just like you did on from the car body, continue passing wire through until it has fully cleared the tube.
Pop trim panels that make up the interior of your trunk. These are held on with pop clips that may break (see part number under OPTIONAL for extras). Start with the top, center panel and work your way out towards the edge. YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THESE PANELS, only make enough clearance to pass the wire through the hole on the left that is concealed by the trim.
The wire will pass THROUGH the rubber tube's hole, through some hollow metal out towards a hole (yellow circle) and then double back behind the plastic trim to your desired rear camera location.
NOTE: Wire is represented by red, hole it passes through behind the trim is yellow.
Once this is done, pull as much wire as you need through and reclip all your trim back in, hiding the wire behind it. AGAIN, Be careful with the plastic push clips and make sure they are lined up 100%, they break easily but can be replaced if you mess them up.
Re-secure the rubber tubing, double check the seal. This is supposed to be WATER PROOF as it is exposed to the elements, so make sure it is plugged back up like it came.
Start tucking camera wire under the plastic trim panel you started with, working your way forward
Next, tuck between the weather seal and headliner's edge. If you do it well enough it will hide the wire 100% and be very secure
Keep tucking...
When you reach the B pillar trim start tucking between the headliner and trim panel itself
I think you get the point now... do this all the way forward until you reach the airbag that was under the A pillar.
Now jump down to your fusebox area we prepped in the very first steps and start setting up your hard wire
We will be wiring into fuse #1 for switched power, #16 for constant always on power, and using the fusebox's securing bolt as a ground (this was tested to be 100% with a multimeter)
NOTE That my hardwiring kit has a fuse in line for the dash cam, so we are 100% safe directly connecting the wire into the fusebox. Other kits may require the use of an "add a fuse" kit to be safe.
**TEST EVERYTHING BEFORE NEXT STEPS TO ENSURE DASHCAM IS BEING POWERED AS DESIRED**
Run wiring up the weather stripping next to the airbag. Do not cross the wire over the airbag as it may effect airbag deployment in the event of an accident, you do *not* want to mess with safety.
Tuck wire between body and airbag, not over and then tuck it under the headliner and start running it towards the rearview mirror
Tuck wiring up between headliner and glass, if you pull slightly down on the headliner's edge there is a perfect channel just inside the headliner that will hold the wire securely
Mount and wire up front/rear dashcam and admire your work! Test once again just to be sure before you button everything up.
Snap everything together, re-attach a pillar and enjoy! Secure any loose wires and tuck them further behind panels, paying special attention to loose wires by the fusebox (so they do not get caught up with your feet when operating the pedals)
My setup only has a small edge of the dashcam showing from the driver's seat but I can quickly dismount it to review footage.
From the driver's seat the rear dashcam is invisible
Bonus dashcam footage from my previous car using the same camera
Install time is 2-4 hours depending on skill level. It can be done in a much lazier way, but if you take the time to do the install properly it will come out VERY professional. My specific dashcam runs 24/7 whether the car is on or off and automatically records accidents and motion when parked. Once done, the only wires visible will be 1-2" going to each camera. Everything else is hidden in an OEM manner.
FOR FUSES/GROUND
See steps below for pics
Fuse #1 (Accessory) for SWITCHED FUSE. Turns on when car is on, off when car is off.
Fuse #16 (Door Lock) for ALWAYS ON FUSE. Always gets battery power, car on or off. Locked or unlocked.
Bolt securing fusebox to car body is a ground
REQUIRED TOOL LIST
-Trim prying tools
-8mm Socket
-10mm Socket
-Fuse Puller
-Flashlight
(OPTIONAL) Replacement Trim Clips
Honda OEM Part # 91560-SZW-003, $0.60ish each at dealer. You may break a few installing rear dash cam.
DASH CAM/HARDWIRE (OPTIONAL, Other models may apply)
Thinkware X500 w/ Rear Camera:
https://www.amazon.com/THINKWARE-X500D-Dashcam-Camera-MicroSD/dp/B0147I0JEW/
Thinkware Hardwire Kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Thinkware-TWA-SH-Hardwiring-Cable-X150/dp/B00NC062E8/
STEPS
Interior fusebox is located at the driver's left knee area right above the leftmost kick panel. To have 100% easy access, remove the knee trim panel as described below. NOTE: There are wires on the TOP LEFT and TOP RIGHT corner that must be unclipped to get the panel out of the way, these can be accessed after popping the trim panel itself away from the dash. It takes some muscle, pry from the sides. Red circle is fusebox location.
Locate "SRS AIRBAG" logo on A pillar driver's side trim. Push in HARD with fingers on this small square sized panel and an edge will bulge up. Once bulged up use a trim prying tool to pop out of place (you can also use a flat head screwdriver but it is very likely to gouge your plastic trim)
Under cover is an 8MM / Phillips head bolt. Remove it and put somewhere safe.
Once bolt is removed pry cover using hands towards middle of the car from the same location my fingers are, note that it will start to pry up and then "stop". There is a pop clip under the cover right at the red circle's position, slide fingers right next to it and simply pull more. Once this clip pops pull cover UP and TOWARDS YOU to unhook where it connects into the dash, and then it will be fully detached.
Head to the back of the car and open hatch. Top left corner of opened hatch, note rubber tube. This peels away from the body and has many wires running through it (for things such as brake lights). Pull it up using your hands.
Peek inside the hole this rubber tube was covering and follow the wire loom down it, notice it passes through a second piece of metal and then right next to what looks like a piece of cardboard, this is the inside edge of your headliner.
Go back to the inside of your car and notice the left interior where the D pillar trim panel meets the headliner. This is where you will pass the rear camera's wire through. The headliner is flexible so just kind of force your way in, push the wire through and up into the backside of the hole pictured above, then with your other hand reach into the hole left by the rubber tube removed a few steps ago and pull the wire.
Pass the wire through the rubber tube. My rear camera uses a micro-USB connection and it was tough but not impossible. BE PATIENT and bunch up the tube, shove the plug as far in as you can and then try to pull it through. This will take a while and is the most tedious part, but once the wire is through there is MORE than enough room inside the tube for the factory wiring and you'll have a super clean install!
Pull tube off from hatch panel just like you did on from the car body, continue passing wire through until it has fully cleared the tube.
Pop trim panels that make up the interior of your trunk. These are held on with pop clips that may break (see part number under OPTIONAL for extras). Start with the top, center panel and work your way out towards the edge. YOU DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THESE PANELS, only make enough clearance to pass the wire through the hole on the left that is concealed by the trim.
The wire will pass THROUGH the rubber tube's hole, through some hollow metal out towards a hole (yellow circle) and then double back behind the plastic trim to your desired rear camera location.
NOTE: Wire is represented by red, hole it passes through behind the trim is yellow.
Once this is done, pull as much wire as you need through and reclip all your trim back in, hiding the wire behind it. AGAIN, Be careful with the plastic push clips and make sure they are lined up 100%, they break easily but can be replaced if you mess them up.
Re-secure the rubber tubing, double check the seal. This is supposed to be WATER PROOF as it is exposed to the elements, so make sure it is plugged back up like it came.
Start tucking camera wire under the plastic trim panel you started with, working your way forward
Next, tuck between the weather seal and headliner's edge. If you do it well enough it will hide the wire 100% and be very secure
Keep tucking...
When you reach the B pillar trim start tucking between the headliner and trim panel itself
I think you get the point now... do this all the way forward until you reach the airbag that was under the A pillar.
Now jump down to your fusebox area we prepped in the very first steps and start setting up your hard wire
We will be wiring into fuse #1 for switched power, #16 for constant always on power, and using the fusebox's securing bolt as a ground (this was tested to be 100% with a multimeter)
NOTE That my hardwiring kit has a fuse in line for the dash cam, so we are 100% safe directly connecting the wire into the fusebox. Other kits may require the use of an "add a fuse" kit to be safe.
**TEST EVERYTHING BEFORE NEXT STEPS TO ENSURE DASHCAM IS BEING POWERED AS DESIRED**
Run wiring up the weather stripping next to the airbag. Do not cross the wire over the airbag as it may effect airbag deployment in the event of an accident, you do *not* want to mess with safety.
Tuck wire between body and airbag, not over and then tuck it under the headliner and start running it towards the rearview mirror
Tuck wiring up between headliner and glass, if you pull slightly down on the headliner's edge there is a perfect channel just inside the headliner that will hold the wire securely
Mount and wire up front/rear dashcam and admire your work! Test once again just to be sure before you button everything up.
Snap everything together, re-attach a pillar and enjoy! Secure any loose wires and tuck them further behind panels, paying special attention to loose wires by the fusebox (so they do not get caught up with your feet when operating the pedals)
My setup only has a small edge of the dashcam showing from the driver's seat but I can quickly dismount it to review footage.
From the driver's seat the rear dashcam is invisible
Bonus dashcam footage from my previous car using the same camera
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