What did you pay?

alpine86

I paid $18199 for 10th civic LX new. (mud guard and clear door edge films included) at the dealer.

tax + registration + plate are extra. So does it look good or bad?
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xjoshuax89

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Thats the point of the otd price not mattering. Those other fees are non negotiable. Posting prices here gives everyone an idea of what to negotiate towards. When someone said I paid 23k out the door how would I go about getting that number?
Who got a better deal:

23k otd in Oregon with no sales tax
Or
23.3 otd in California with 9% tax?

Oregon person paid 7-8% more. If they had the selling price maybe they could have paid 5-8% less.
Actually some of those are actually negotiable to some degree especially if those are just random dealer add ons. Those that live on the border between 2 or 3 states can use an OTD along with other numbers to negotiate better. Ex. DMV area. (D.C. , MD, VA)
 

xjoshuax89

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Dude, WTF with the attack and narrow-minded bubble comment from you?

Go take your chill pill, people like you who make attacks like that make me want to not post. BTW what you posted above actually makes my point accurate. Ever heard the term comparing apples to apples? Anything other than that, is just not an accurate comparison.
I don't think you understand what "attacks" are. You start off with
I have to question the stupidity of the person asking the question.
I merely said your opinion was narrow minded. You are the one who started calling people stupid. So actually you are the one who made the "attack".

I merely made a point that your opinion was narrow minded which is not an attack nor an insult. You actually made an insult by calling people who state OTD to be stupid. Furthermore, you go off the handle by blowing the situation out of proportions saying "WTF with the attack" and "take your chill pill".

There is so much hypocrisy in your posts. The person who needs to take the "chill pill" is yourself and you should try to not be so hyper sensitive and thin skinned.
 

gtman

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My opinion on this OTD discussion...

Since things like taxes and fees have so many variables, I think they need to be left out of the discussion when deciding if someone got a good deal or not. Keep it simple.

How much money did you get off the sticker? That's what matters. Then it's easy to see how your deal compares with others on a level playing field. I think everything beyond that is where confusion comes in.
 
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Tsturbo

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I don't think you understand what "attacks" are. You start off with I merely said your opinion was narrow minded. You are the one who started calling people stupid. So actually you are the one who made the "attack".

I merely made a point that your opinion was narrow minded which is not an attack nor an insult. You actually made an insult by calling people who state OTD to be stupid. Furthermore, you go off the handle by blowing the situation out of proportions saying "WTF with the attack" and "take your chill pill".

There is so much hypocrisy in your posts. The person who needs to take the "chill pill" is yourself and you should try to not be so hyper sensitive and thin skinned.
whatever, doesn't change the fact that your rationale does not add up. Maybe it's that new math they teach you kids these days? Lol

OTD pricing tells you nothing and does not indicate what a person actually paid for the car. But hey, if it makes you feel good, you go right ahead and keep using it!
 
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gtman

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OTD simply isn't helpful in determining if you got a good deal compared to others. It's apples to oranges, where apples to apples is needed.

On the other hand, OTD makes sense as a negotiating tool at the dealership.

For comparison purposes (like in this "what did you pay" topic) it's more confusing than helpful.
 

MD Vet

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Why not post all pertinent information of it in a standard format?

State: XX
Trim: EX-T
Tranny: CVT
Color: Black
Options: Whatever, floor mats, and so on..
Price: $10,500
Price after trade: 9,500
Destination Charge: $500
Tax: 10% $1,000 (if applicable)
Title/Tags: $200
Dealer (processing) Fee: $300

TOTAL OTD: $11,500
 

gtman

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Truthfully isn't this the easiest indicator of whether or not you got a good deal:

Model: XYZ
Discount off sticker: $$$

Taxes and fees can vary by thousands. Even more confusing is when people post an OTD price that includes a down payment and/or trade. The OTD price is only relevant to them.

For comparison purposes, discount off sticker is the way to go.
 

xjoshuax89

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whatever, doesn't change the fact that your rationale does not add up. Maybe it's that new math they teach you kids these days? Lol

OTD pricing tells you nothing and does not indicate what a person actually paid for the car. But hey, if it makes you feel good, you go right ahead and keep using it!
Lol. You can't defend your position so you resort to childish passive-aggressive behavior. "Maybe it's that new math they teach you kids these days?" Really? How old are you? Also, what college/university level mathematics did you take? I have taken up to Calculus III and Linear Algebra. What have you taken?

OTD is a figure that is hard to accurately use if you don't have all the supporting numbers/information. Not to mention that you need to know how to properly use it. You never resort to just comparing OTD vs OTD. Now that is a dumb thing to do. However, with all the figures you have and including the OTD, you are in the better position to figure out why pricing is such and what sort of deal you are getting. Perhaps this is too complex of a concept that they "didn't teach to the old people back in the days" if I am to mimic your ridiculous comment.

Not going to bother wasting anymore time on this anymore. TETO.

To get fully get back onto topic, prices for the '16 models have dropped quite a bit since I last purchased which was back in May. About 1k-2k cheaper depending on trim and color. Now can't say that about other regions but at least in the MD/VA area it seems to be true.
 


iamspartacus

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I just totaled my '08 Civic LX Coupe and I'm looking for a new vehicle in the next 10-14 days. I'm digging the 2016 Civics and I really want the get the Touring edition. I'm in the Tri-state NY/NJ/CT area. What should I be shooting for when I start hitting the dealerships?

One caveat is that I'm closing on a new house on the 17th and would honestly like to pickup the car that same day but I can't have any dealer run my credit until that weekend (15th/16th) because the bank runs a soft credit check 5 days before closing and I can't make any major changes. How/when should I start the process of hitting the dealerships?
 

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Lol. You can't defend your position so you resort to childish passive-aggressive behavior. "Maybe it's that new math they teach you kids these days?" Really? How old are you? Also, what college/university level mathematics did you take? I have taken up to Calculus III and Linear Algebra. What have you taken?

OTD is a figure that is hard to accurately use if you don't have all the supporting numbers/information. Not to mention that you need to know how to properly use it. You never resort to just comparing OTD vs OTD. Now that is a dumb thing to do. However, with all the figures you have and including the OTD, you are in the better position to figure out why pricing is such and what sort of deal you are getting. Perhaps this is too complex of a concept that they "didn't teach to the old people back in the days" if I am to mimic your ridiculous comment.

Not going to bother wasting anymore time on this anymore. TETO.

To get fully get back onto topic, prices for the '16 models have dropped quite a bit since I last purchased which was back in May. About 1k-2k cheaper depending on trim and color. Now can't say that about other regions but at least in the MD/VA area it seems to be true.
Not even going to respond to your rubbish, other than you are wrong. I know it is hard for you to understand with your calculus and algebra knowledge, your text book examples just won't cut it in the real world. You have a lot of real life learning and growing up to do.
Ignore completed!
 
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thangcb

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Got myself a 2016 EX-L w/o Honda Sensing today for $21700 before TTL (OTD $23800) and I am located in South Calif. The dealer also threw in some "extra packages" such as the 2 years free oil and tires change. However, the guy tried to sell me the 7 years/ 100k miles extended warranty for an extra $2200 and I politely rejected the offer. Can I get this extended warranty cheaper elsewhere ?
 

WallyBR

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However, the guy tried to sell me the 7 years/ 100k miles extended warranty for an extra $2200 and I politely rejected the offer. Can I get this extended warranty cheaper elsewhere ?
I just got a quote from Hyannis Honda for 8 years & 100,000 miles $0 deductible for $880. I found out about that site on this forum. Take that to your dealer to match or just buy outright from Hyannis. It's a valid HondaCare warranty that any dealer in the country must honor.

I'm about to pull the trigger on a '16 Touring sedan for $2,400 below sticker. That's about the best deal I've found where I live.
 

WallyBR

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Here is the deal I'm considering right now.

State: NC
Trim: Touring
Tranny: CVT
Color: MSM
Options: Mud guards, wheel locks, nitrogen
Price: $24,980
Price after trade: N/A
Destination Charge: incl. above
Tax: 3%, $767.37
Title/Tags: $217
Dealer (processing) Fee: $59[9]

TOTAL OTD: $26,537.
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