Randomly Blown Bottom End

[Sleepy]

I don’t know, they didn’t tell me anything other then there was a hole in the bottom end. I don’t know what communications have been made between dealerships/honda.

Post the invoice or work order then showing you paid nothing and it was covered. It would end all speculation that you’re a troll...

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[MoTeC R]

...

 

[askro]

Car feels better then it did the day I got it

 

[Civics4Ever]

Congrats. Is general assy. the engine?

 

[boosted180sx]

Car feels better then it did the day I got it

 

[lexro]

Car feels better then it did the day I got it

Nice congrats man, Been low key following this saga for a few days, Boy did it get dramatic. I guess we all had our concerns and doubts given what we each experienced when it comes to warranty claims.

Glad you got it fixed no charge, but perhaps this time do a proper tune by the pro shops with well-planned mods.

Edit: Not gonna lie, props for keeping it cool with some of quite aggressive replies that were thrown your way.

 

[ManEatingPenguin]

nice, you dodge a bullet there especially since they have it written down that they noticed aftermarket mods.

 

[TheCanadian]

Man just came back and dusted ALL OF US. Congrats on the repair.

 

[askro]

I didn’t lie when I said my dealership takes care of me ? also they assembled everything exactly how it was (bolt ons and coils) going to remove injen intake as soon as I get home lol.

 

[James3spearchucker]

I didn’t lie when I said my dealership takes care of me ? also they assembled everything exactly how it was (bolt ons and coils) going to remove injen intake as soon as I get home lol.

sounds good man. what about the coil packs? Today's modern car has more computing power then yesterday's NASA rocket launches, so with boost and timing, they are all related to that spark, so you may want to go back to stock on that.

 

[Si_chRis]

Car feels better then it did the day I got it

Dang, nice dude.

Saw that you're not going to use the Injen intake, are you keeping the MSD coil packs on the new engine?

 

[Deleted member 47337]

Nothing against you personally, just want to make a statement.

The number of people running around with bolt ons and off the shelf tunes is significantly greater than the number of people who have experienced catastrophic failures.

That being said, the data collection @gtman has been doing is almost entirely the L15B7 and only a few entries for the K20 in the type R, so there is much less information about how much power it can take, how likely failures are, etc.

Mix that with self-proclaimed beating on it and a questionable brand of intake which has been associated with a lot of the catastrophic failures reported here and.......


What we don't know is which basemap he was using, what type/octane of gas, and specifically what his statement of "beating on it" means.

I'm sorry, but I gotta jump in. This has to be said.

A LOT of people are doing bolt-on mods like they know what they are doing, but what makes it even worse is that they try to convince others how great it is (when it's really not). Way too many people trust aftermarket companies far too quickly.

It's just like the wheel and tire conversation I have with Type R owners here in the South. People pay thousands of dollars for forged lightweight wheels, and then go and do someting really stupid like put wider and heavier tires on their super-lightweight wheels. So, all they do is make the wheel lighter, but then throw on a tire even heavier than stock, causing the heaviest weighting thing on the entire wheel to be towards the outter portions of the rotating mass...which is worse thing you can do for braking and acceleration. If you get a wheel that 19lbs and throw on a 27lb tire, thats horrible. You're better off keeping your 24lb stock wheel and keeping the 23lb stock tire (just an example) because your heaviest part of your entire wheel is towards the center of the rotating mass, not the outside of the wheel.

Another thing, all of the intake systems that are NOT stock...don't care who made it, or how prestigious of a company they are....ALL AFTERMARKET INTAKE SYSTEMS kill a little bit of your low-end torque, and give you unnoticeable power at the higher RPM range. Not something ANYONE should be doing unless you have an upgraded turbo and want to boost some serious PSI.

I've seen cars that are professionally tuned, in a shop, on a dyno, for days on end to get just 1 tune right. I'm talking about just a tune here...no bolt ons. It literally takes days on end to get a tune to be perfect. Guys buying Ktuner or Hondata and don't know anything about tuning should stay away from that kind of stuff, because I've seen all of Hondata's tunes for the Type R, and they are ridiculously aggressive. You can make way more power running leaner, and low boost pressures, than cranking it all the way up with Hondata tunes.

I'm only saying this because I've driven a lot of other people's Type Rs and they have driven mine, and everyone who drives my Type R is almost instantaneously impressed by the handling, braking, and acceleration.....and that's because I haven't done any mods to take anything away from the vehicle, instead to only add. I've driven Type Rs with the lightest wheels money can buy, and the car rides like shit, even with smaller wheels and thicker tires...all because of the wrong tire size, weight, scrub-radius, etc..

Most people that mod their cars are doing it all wrong, and it's not their fault, they only have access to the stuff they hear about on YouTube or here on the Forums.

 

[Bobbyt]

Keep it stock you dodged a major bullet imho.catback exhaust and call it a day ?

 

[AlphaDigital]

Doing this for the sake of discussion. I dont want to be a dick and im not certainly trying to be one, but youre coming off like a know it all "keep it stock" elitist even if its not your intention. Id like to hear a bit more from you to understand your viewpoint, and elaborate on some of these things youre claiming because without more information or even evidence, youre just pretty much trying to blow smoke up peoples asses. Sorry.

Would also like to have input from people who have experience tinkering with these things that to me, are knowledgeable and trusthworthy on the platform like @kefi @fk8mike @alejandroads123 @turbociv910 @KineticAutoworks @PRL Motorsports do yall take days to do a simple correction on Hondata and Ktuner?

Another thing, all of the intake systems that are NOT stock...don't care who made it, or how prestigious of a company they are....ALL AFTERMARKET INTAKE SYSTEMS kill a little bit of your low-end torque, and give you unnoticeable power at the higher RPM range.

Provide evidence of this claim.

Not something ANYONE should be doing unless you have an upgraded turbo and want to boost some serious PSI.

You realize PSI is partially irrelevant for the FK8 and tuning since the ECU relies on torque tables right?

I've seen cars that are professionally tuned, in a shop, on a dyno, for days on end to get just 1 tune right. I'm talking about just a tune here...no bolt ons. It literally takes days on end to get a tune to be perfect.

If it takes days on end for just a tune to be perfect you need to find a new tuner. Sorry, a simple tune even for bolt ons should not take "days on end" it should take a few hours at most provided everything is in working order, and then maybe an hour or two of tweaking the tune on the street but even that shouldnt be needed. Nobody takes days on end to retune a stock or bolt on CTR. The only people taking days are literally tuning some of the most modified platforms where they need to start from scratch, where there isnt some sort of basemap to start from. What shops are you seeing this at?

Guys buying Ktuner or Hondata and don't know anything about tuning should stay away from that kind of stuff, because I've seen all of Hondata's tunes for the Type R, and they are ridiculously aggressive. You can make way more power running leaner, and low boost pressures, than cranking it all the way up with Hondata tunes.

Please elaborate... on all of this

I'm only saying this because I've driven a lot of other people's Type Rs and they have driven mine, and everyone who drives my Type R is almost instantaneously impressed by the handling, braking, and acceleration.....and that's because I haven't done any mods to take anything away from the vehicle, instead to only add.

So people with modified type R's drive your stock CTR and theyre all impressed by how much better your stock type R is? What kind of modified type R's are they driving?

I've driven Type Rs with the lightest wheels money can buy, and the car rides like shit, even with smaller wheels and thicker tires...all because of the wrong tire size, weight, scrub-radius, etc..

What wheels? What tire sizes? What offset? whats the "right" scrub radius?

Most people that mod their cars are doing it all wrong, and it's not their fault, they only have access to the stuff they hear about on YouTube or here on the Forums.

Whats the right way to do this?

 

[boosted180sx]

thank god we have someone here that knows everything about the CTR to steer people in the right direction to modifying this car the "correct" way.

cant believe i been doing it the wrong way all these years by putting a heavy 275 tire on a light weight forged wheel. Thanks for showing me the way.

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