Oil Catch Can: Mishimoto v. Radium Engineering

[fatherpain]

It seems the car feels best (for my regular driving habits) between 3k and 4.5k. Only time the engine is below 3k RPM is when I’m cruising along and maintaining a constant speed, like in 6th gear.

I’m mainly driving around town or on the LA/OC freeways which are often congested, heh.

Will get on the accelerator every once in awhile and do a WOT pull to redline but it’s a rarity when I’m driving alone (family hates it) and the roads are clear, lol.

Drove to work this morning at a good clip, passed a pickup truck with ample space to clear but he didn’t like it and shined his high beams. Don’t know what was up with that.

A trip to the track is getting closer where I’ll be able to drive all out without fear of a ticket or other bystanders, heh.

Also I am not tuned, so am not getting the full benefit of several of the performance mods yet.

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[blitz]

I have the Mishimoto oil catch can. This coming weekend, I plan to do an oil and transmission change, so I’ll let y’all know how much the can captured.

I chose the Mishimoto for the quality, parts, and design that it uses to attach to the frame (firewall).

I think both cans are really good, and the decision rests on personal preference. There are some universal cans available and at a cheaper cost, but I wanted to make sure I wouldn’t have to fabricate or modify anything to install the can.

Positive feedback: no error codes, and peace of mind (just don’t forget to drain the can at every oil change)

 

[Blaze_CTR]

Thanks for all the info. My overall take away was that they are fairly similar and comes down to personal preference. I'm not a fan of the green on the Radium so I have decided on the Mishomoto since it's on sale, they sent me a 5% off coupon over the weekend, and free shipping!

 

[blitz]

Thanks for all the info. My overall take away was that they are fairly similar and comes down to personal preference. I'm not a fan of the green on the Radium so I have decided on the Mishomoto since it's on sale, they sent me a 5% off coupon over the weekend, and free shipping!

To make installation easier, I would recommend investing in a pair of hose clamp pliers. I found these on Amazon for about $11.

These pliers make moving the clamp into the correct area very easy, and will not slip like regular pliers.

Enjoy!

 

[BrandonCTRWV]

I just put the Mishimoto on my Type R a few weeks ago. Top notch materials, construction, looks great and super easy to install. And the red powdercoated bracket matches the engine cover nearly perfect.

 

[blitz]

To make installation easier, I would recommend investing in a pair of hose clamp pliers. I found these on Amazon for about $11.

These pliers make moving the clamp into the correct area very easy, and will not slip like regular pliers.

Enjoy!

Oh - when you are installing the 3 Allen screws to secure the can to the bracket, take your time. The screws are small, and if one falls, you will have a very frustrating day trying to find it on the engine cover (skid plate). Therefore, I recommend getting a towel bunched-up and placing it beneath the can, so that if you drop a screw, it will fall on the towel, and you can easily retrieve it.

 

[ian408]

I just installed the Mishimoto. When it was time, I just sprayed the hose ends with window cleaner. This makes them slippery and easier to install plus it dries quickly.

Takes only 20-30 minutes to install.

 

[RepyT]

I have no unadvertised interest or brand loyalty to any one catch-me-if-you-can over another.

Seems to me though, there’s another good choice left out, JLT. If your thing is something of Japanese sounding origin then by all means, go with Mishimoto.

If you like the idea of lines too stiff to be of use, good design then go Rad brand, no it doesn’t glow in the dark but looks like it should.

If you just want one easy to put on (mounts to radiator reservoir, replacing stock with longer bolt for bracket), then consider JLT. Who? No catchy name or flashy paint job. Darn thing is as or easier to install than the Mishimoto or Radioactive and just works on either side, mine is on PCV.

Typically less expensive too. I haven’t been paid or compensated for this, It’s the Keep It Simple Silly (edited) screw on tank that does just fine without as catchy a name. As R owners I respect flash matters, red paint is cheap, blends in fine, same function, usually less $, None of these decent brands are bad, nor does it appear one is any better than another. I saved some $ for other mods and just as protected and thrilled as either other brand discussed here.

I want to get the elite device or advantage but just can’t for this simple device.

Help me understand if I missed something, am being too frugal, or they’re all good, pick any that thrills you.

if the latter, why aren’t we all using strange brands at bottom of cost scale?

 

[TheShadow]

I have no unadvertised interest or brand loyalty to any one catch-me-if-you-can over another.

Seems to me though, there’s another good choice left out, JLT. If your thing is something of Japanese sounding origin then by all means, go with Mishimoto.

If you like the idea of lines too stiff to be of use, good design then go Rad brand, no it doesn’t glow in the dark but looks like it should.

If you just want one easy to put on (mounts to radiator reservoir, replacing stock with longer bolt for bracket), then consider JLT. Who? No catchy name or flashy paint job. Darn thing is as or easier to install than the Mishimoto or Radioactive and just works on either side, mine is on PCV.

Typically less expensive too. I haven’t been paid or compensated for this, It’s the Keep It Simple Silly (edited) screw on tank that does just fine without as catchy a name. As R owners I respect flash matters, red paint is cheap, blends in fine, same function, usually less $, None of these decent brands are bad, nor does it appear one is any better than another. I saved some $ for other mods and just as protected and thrilled as either other brand discussed here.

I want to get the elite device or advantage but just can’t for this simple device.

Help me understand if I missed something, am being too frugal, or they’re all good, pick any that thrills you.

if the latter, why aren’t we all using strange brands at bottom of cost scale?

JLT design only uses one bolt to retain the bracket / can. Simple yes, but my money is on that diving board of a bracket cracking and fatiguing at one of those bends before you want it to.

 

[RepyT]

I understand your concerns of it looking like a diving board. It remains relatively neutral unattached without being bolted down as I did that last (deviating from Instruction’s that day mount it first. I also put some 3M mount taper between bracket and tank as vibe isolation. The plastic tank and rubber hoses along with a smaller tank, don’t overstep design boundaries for military much less automotive use, My day job has a little something to do with scrutinizing design. I agree one bolt is not optimum but if shock isolated to a reasonable degree this mounting method is acceptable from a design and ease of use standpoint.

There are several items noticed on the R under hood area that appear less secure.

 

[ian408]

One bolt is enough to keep it on. Maybe not level but on. I’d be more concerned about the quality of the plastic and the risk of over pressurization or deteriorating effect of heat before I’d worry about one bolt.

 

[RepyT]

One bolt is enough to keep it on. Maybe not level but on. I’d be more concerned about the quality of the plastic and the risk of over pressurization or deteriorating effect of heat before I’d worry about one bolt.

Ian,
I’m being dense so please excuse me... too many years being a dummy load for high power radars maybe.

What plastic? The mounting arm is aluminum, has JLT logo and I intended to fill it JLT logo back in with white paint but Once stayed red with 3-4 coats, was too shallow to do the fill & wipe trick so left it as is and used the sticker on side overlay instead.

The 3oz tank is ‘Alyouminimim’ so that just leaves the radiator accum tank as the only plastic parts involved. I that what you mean?

One concern I had just single bolt with A/C line near it and directions caution to make sure mounting arm didn’t contact it. Without a second bolt in theory this could move but not likely. I tightened last without tension last to ensure a stable position at rest by turning both hoses just a little before clamping the the mont down. This stress free position is less likely to induce pivotal movement

Those that remember physics of an object at rest tends to stay that way.nuetral position good, pulling constantly on that bolt to secure hoses bad. If secured correctly and since I don’t have Honda specs, you can come up with torque value (can be derived from fastener size, material, it’s bite, (# & size of threads utilized). All this before making any calc compensation from the environment like hi vibe or temp cycling.

Anyway, the dang thing stays put in man terms, not engineering gibberish.

Bottom line is two or more bolts would be ideal even being supported in place by two hoses and only holding 3oz oil max, The forces involved are not significant. I did some fancy math , not a WAG to confirm, that confirmation & estimation of stress analysis is something I deal with often along with electronic aspects. It’s fun. That sure explains why I enjoy driving as a release in a zippity Type R.

Although I’m not a mechanical engineer, I have played one before. It was a no budget short film (in part) about delivering a pepperoni pizza to a hot blonde...never mind that the producer lied and said all copies were destroyed, Her complexion got much better quickly (referring to the oily sausage impact on sebum production treated with salicylic cleanser 2x/day) Not being naughty...but I did marry her based on special skill set, TMI.

On an even lighter but unrelated note (balloony?) I was quite surprised at the name of my wonderful online salesman where I got my Type R (no s) at Gwinnett Place in Etlanna. He was calm cool & collected and sat still while I got flogged my prospective purchase pretty hard, (once financing done) his name explains all that, a near lifer Honda guy, fab dealer too!

 

[Blaze_CTR]

I saw the same concerns regarding the JLT can on another thread but the deal breaker for me was they won't ship it to CA because it's not CARB exempt.

 

[ian408]

Ian,
I’m being dense so please excuse me... too many years being a dummy load for high power radars maybe.

What plastic? The mounting arm is aluminum, has JLT logo and I intended to fill it JLT logo back in with white paint but Once stayed red with 3-4 coats, was too shallow to do the fill & wipe trick so left it as is and used the sticker on side overlay instead.

I wasn't referring specifically to your can, just that one bolt holding it on isn't as big a worry as other other things are for a catch can application.

 

[TheShadow]

One concern I had just single bolt with A/C line near it and directions caution to make sure mounting arm didn’t contact it. Without a second bolt in theory this could move but not likely. I tightened last without tension last to ensure a stable position at rest by turning both hoses just a little before clamping the the mont down. This stress free position is less likely to induce pivotal movement

Those that remember physics of an object at rest tends to stay that way.nuetral position good, pulling constantly on that bolt to secure hoses bad. If secured correctly and since I don’t have Honda specs, you can come up with torque value (can be derived from fastener size, material, it’s bite, (# & size of threads utilized). All this before making any calc compensation from the environment like hi vibe or temp cycling.

The JLT design has 2 issues:

First, related to the 1 bolt topic. One bolt creates a pivot axis. It will allow the bracket to work back and forth and loosen the bolt eventually. It just happens, and it is more likely since you have the weight of the can creating a moment since it hangs a ways out from the bolt axis.

Second, related to the cantilevered design. The bracket is several inches long so the weight of the can is essentially bouncing at the end like a diving board. This will fatigue the bracket, likely at the two tight bends near where it assembles into the car. I really expect those bends will crack eventually. Especially because this system is NOT at rest. It is in an engine bay that vibrates even when the car is idling, and especially when driving and hitting any road imperfections. This vibration comment also play into the tendency to work the bolt loose as with my first concern.

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