1.5T Need Advice on Improving HP and Low Ends Response

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Hi, I currently owned a FC1 non-Si 1.5T CVT in the Asia region.

my current mods are as follows:
PRL Street Cobra
PRL Intercooler
Koyorad
Hondata Tuned (see attached, blue - Stock Dyno, Red - Custom Dyno)

with 95 Octane fuel and HKS Exhaust

I would like some advice on what other mods I can do to improve my HP and Tq (target at least 250HP and 35kgsm/240ftlbs or more, without breaking my CVT).

The other issue I have with my current tune is the low ends response as well.

Mods that are a definitely no-no for me (personal reasons or limited by country's regulations):
de-catting FP and DP
Flex Fuel Kit

Additionally, I am also keen on changing out my turbo, any to recommend?

Thank you!

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gtman

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OP, when you get to the point you're at and you want both more low end power and more top end, it's 100% time to get a custom tune. 100%.

A pro tuner can tie in any additional bolt ons and tailor the power curve to your needs and the CVT. You can't just keep adding on more and more power mods and expect things to work issue free on their own.
 
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OP, when you get to the point you're at and you want both more low end power and more top end, it's 100% time to get a custom tune. 100%.

A pro tuner can tie in any additional bolt ons and tailor the power curve to your needs and the CVT. You can't just keep adding on more and more power mods and expect things to work issue free on their own.
Thank you for your advice!

I know the need to custom tune based on what I want, but I feel that I am limited by my current setup before I could custom tune to hit those target figures.
 

arnoldo

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Are you using Mainline dyno? The dyno sheet looks like a mainline dyno print out. Mainline dyno measures power at the wheels. From my observation, the difference between power at wheels and power on engine is approx. between 20% and 30% using Mainline dyno.

Civic 1.5T power in our region is 174 HP and 220 Nm according to Honda marketing sheet. Using Honda marketing sheet assumption, the difference between stock power vs. Mainline dyno is 20%.

After mods and Hondata tune, your car is making approx. 220 HP on engine.

If you are looking for 250 WHP from Mainline dyno without replacing downpipe, you need to replace the turbocharger. I would suggest MHI TD03. Eventually, you may need to replace your exhaust piping to compensate the bigger turbo but this is optional.

Please get professional tuner to tune your car on dyno with the turbo upgrade. Hondata provides Mitsubishi Turbo calibration for the SI but I suggest against copying and pasting tuning from SI calibration provided by Hondata.

I replaced my turbocharger with CR-V/SI and I need to adjust tuning for EGR Ignition, Knock Ignition Limit, TC Maximum Pressure, and Torque Limiter.

I'm not sure if Singapore use RON or US Octane fuel standard. If it is 95 RON, I'd suggest using 98 RON fuel at least.
 


SDAlexander8

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Too much low end torque on stock internals will end in a bad day. Just sayin
 
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Are you using Mainline dyno? The dyno sheet looks like a mainline dyno print out. Mainline dyno measures power at the wheels. From my observation, the difference between power at wheels and power on engine is approx. between 20% and 30% using Mainline dyno.

Civic 1.5T power in our region is 174 HP and 220 Nm according to Honda marketing sheet. Using Honda marketing sheet assumption, the difference between stock power vs. Mainline dyno is 20%.

After mods and Hondata tune, your car is making approx. 220 HP on engine.

If you are looking for 250 WHP from Mainline dyno without replacing downpipe, you need to replace the turbocharger. I would suggest MHI TD03. Eventually, you may need to replace your exhaust piping to compensate the bigger turbo but this is optional.

Please get professional tuner to tune your car on dyno with the turbo upgrade. Hondata provides Mitsubishi Turbo calibration for the SI but I suggest against copying and pasting tuning from SI calibration provided by Hondata.

I replaced my turbocharger with CR-V/SI and I need to adjust tuning for EGR Ignition, Knock Ignition Limit, TC Maximum Pressure, and Torque Limiter.

I'm not sure if Singapore use RON or US Octane fuel standard. If it is 95 RON, I'd suggest using 98 RON fuel at least.
Yes mine is mainline dyno and I'm aiming for 250whp mainline as well. Sg uses RON apparently. Nonetheless, I'll eventually move up to 98 RON fuel.

Thank you for your suggestions! How does the TD03 differ from TD04?
 
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arnoldo

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Yes mine is mainline dyno and I'm aiming for 250whp mainline as well. Sg uses Octane I believe. Nonetheless, I'll eventually move up to 98 Octane fuel.

Thank you for your suggestions! How does the TD03 differ from TD04?
TD03 has smaller compressor and turbine wheel, which should help minimizing low end power lost. Bigger turbo will shift the power band to the right (higher RPM), which could compensate low end power.

Thank you for the reminder! I guess changing of conrods is required. Do you have any to recommend?
I would recommend Saenz connecting rod but you need to replace the piston as well. I'd recommend JE or Traum piston. Get piston with 10:3 CR if you are looking for lower compression ratio.
 


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Thank you for the reminder! I guess changing of conrods is required. Do you have any to recommend?
Unless you are doing the work yourself, the price it would cost you to change the connecting rods and upgrading the turbo; might as well buy a type R. It is pretty hard to achieve your goal of 250 hp without flex fuel or a turbo upgrade. Even the SI/CRV turbo won't make that big of a difference. I have yet to drive a CVT so I cannot speak on that , but I can say that a 6MT 2019 fk7 with a rv6 catted downpipe, prl CAI street MAF, CRV turbo, and a custom tune is plenty of juice.
 
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TD03 has smaller compressor and turbine wheel, which should help minimizing low end power lost. Bigger turbo will shift the power band to the right (higher RPM), which could compensate low end power.

I would recommend Saenz connecting rod but you need to replace the piston as well. I'd recommend JE or Traum piston. Get piston with 10:3 CR if you are looking for lower compression ratio.
Thank you for the suggestions, will keep a look out for those!
 
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Unless you are doing the work yourself, the price it would cost you to change the connecting rods and upgrading the turbo; might as well buy a type R. It is pretty hard to achieve your goal of 250 hp without flex fuel or a turbo upgrade. Even the SI/CRV turbo won't make that big of a difference. I have yet to drive a CVT so I cannot speak on that , but I can say that a 6MT 2019 fk7 with a rv6 catted downpipe, prl CAI street MAF, CRV turbo, and a custom tune is plenty of juice.
Let's just say I'm past the PNR for my current car already. o_O

Yep. Looking forward to turbo upgrade, but I'll need to strengthen my internals 1st.

Mind sharing your juice qty? :spaz:
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