fabrizzio71
Senior Member
- First Name
- Matthew
- Joined
- Oct 18, 2018
- Threads
- 30
- Messages
- 380
- Reaction score
- 272
- Location
- United States
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Civic SI Coupe White Orchid Pearl
- Thread starter
- #1
Greetings,
I just wanted to share my experience installing these parts.
First, the subframe brace: I don’t know about anyone else who has installed this, but I had a considerable problem with one of the threaded holes for the subframe brace. Before I even did anything, I sprayed the holes with silicone lubricant. For the driver’s side hole, I could thread the bolt by hand all the way through. The passenger side however I had significant problems. I could thread it smoothly a few rotations and then it would stop. I forced it a little and pulled it back out and there was evidence of black paint in the threads. However the other side had black paint also and wasn’t an issue. I figured there was debris in there or some kind if issue with the threaded hole. I tried then using a socket and ratchet to see if I could get the bolt through. There was resistance the whole time, which isn’t a good sign and I was worried it stripped. Pulled it back out and some of the threads were worn down but didn’t strip. I believe there was some kind if burr in the threaded hole causing this. I tried feeling out the hole with a small screwdriver but couldn’t discover anything. I decided to go ahead with installation and was able to get both bolts torqued to 55 ft lbs which is the torque spec from the manual.
The Perrin Inserts: No one has mentioned this, but it is impossible to get the 19mm bolt out for the transmission mount using a standard socket and ratchet or breaker bar. This of course means it is impossible to use a torque wrench-there is not nearly enough clearance between the bolt head and the exhaust to do so. I couldn’t find my 19mm ratcheting wrench so I had to use an adjustable open ended wrench to get it off and on. I had to guess on what 69lbs-ft felt like putting it back on. I don’t know how anyone else has torqued that bolt correctly without removing the front pipe. To get the mount with inserts installed back in, using a rubber mallet really helped. I also fully lubricated the rubber portion of the factory mount with silicone before installing the inserts.
Impressions-there is definitely a more direct feel to clutch engagement and vibration from the engine at idle and lower rpms. It makes it easier to tell what is going on with the car. I really like it so far. Everything feels tighter in the front end-engine response and quick steering inputs.
I just wanted to share my experience installing these parts.
First, the subframe brace: I don’t know about anyone else who has installed this, but I had a considerable problem with one of the threaded holes for the subframe brace. Before I even did anything, I sprayed the holes with silicone lubricant. For the driver’s side hole, I could thread the bolt by hand all the way through. The passenger side however I had significant problems. I could thread it smoothly a few rotations and then it would stop. I forced it a little and pulled it back out and there was evidence of black paint in the threads. However the other side had black paint also and wasn’t an issue. I figured there was debris in there or some kind if issue with the threaded hole. I tried then using a socket and ratchet to see if I could get the bolt through. There was resistance the whole time, which isn’t a good sign and I was worried it stripped. Pulled it back out and some of the threads were worn down but didn’t strip. I believe there was some kind if burr in the threaded hole causing this. I tried feeling out the hole with a small screwdriver but couldn’t discover anything. I decided to go ahead with installation and was able to get both bolts torqued to 55 ft lbs which is the torque spec from the manual.
The Perrin Inserts: No one has mentioned this, but it is impossible to get the 19mm bolt out for the transmission mount using a standard socket and ratchet or breaker bar. This of course means it is impossible to use a torque wrench-there is not nearly enough clearance between the bolt head and the exhaust to do so. I couldn’t find my 19mm ratcheting wrench so I had to use an adjustable open ended wrench to get it off and on. I had to guess on what 69lbs-ft felt like putting it back on. I don’t know how anyone else has torqued that bolt correctly without removing the front pipe. To get the mount with inserts installed back in, using a rubber mallet really helped. I also fully lubricated the rubber portion of the factory mount with silicone before installing the inserts.
Impressions-there is definitely a more direct feel to clutch engagement and vibration from the engine at idle and lower rpms. It makes it easier to tell what is going on with the car. I really like it so far. Everything feels tighter in the front end-engine response and quick steering inputs.
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