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Rust doesn't eat plastic. Those are iron deposits on the paint. They are a white car's worst enemy. They sell stuff to clean this specifically.

Bump. Still available as of 2/19/24

Short trips and idling are both terrible for oil life. I drove mostly highway with my Si and my oil light would come on at about 8k. If I was in your situation, I'd use high quality oil and just change it every 5k.

You mean like 90% of vehicles on the road?

Why would you post this here?

The thing is, if you're getting a CAI, ideally you want the race MAF version and you need to be running something like ktuner for that anyway, right?

Yeah but if you're going to get one over the other, the ktuner will be much more bang for buck. I'd definitely recommend the CAI eventually.

Ktuner is a better bang for buck. If I was doing it again I'd get that first. That being said, I loved the sounds the PRL CAI make... but it's really mostly just that.

Nice to see I wasn't the only one with the squeaking brakes. My car actually came that way and then after they fixed it it kept coming back.

Yes, sometimes. I just don't want anyone seeing this thinking they're owed a new clutch just by showing up at the dealer. These people tend not to give things away for free. It's a TSB, not a recall.

This is a great point. What weight oil did they use if it wasn't synthetic? Either way, I wouldn't keep it for more than 5k miles and I wouldn't beat on it. I'm sure you'll be fine otherwise.

Just a heads up, a TSB doesn't necessarily mean a free repair/replacement... regardless of mileage.

The car doesn't know its factory oil. All oil will "last the same" if driven under the same conditions. You're giving the car entirely too much credit. I figured a Type R owner would be jumping at the opportunity to change their oil... I wouldn't keep oil for that long on a car I didn't like.

And by "top mark" I mean the "full" line indicated on the dip stick.

Anything over 4 quarts is going to cause problems. Add however much you need to hit the top mark on the dip stick

Short trips are the worst for fuel economy (and oil) but that seems really bad. Maybe schedule a long trip on the highway to see what kind of fuel economy you get then. In the meantime, check your tire pressure and engine air intake filter.

Bumpers

https://smile.amazon.com/AULLY-PARK-Universal-Waterproof-Protector/dp/B01LYTUBYO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2JB1F8DV39IQK&keywords=B01LYTUBYO&qid=1657360207&s=automotive&sprefix=b01lytubyo%2Cautomotive%2C118&sr=1-1

I am far less optimistic. The k20a3 in the EP3 never got any real attention because the k20a/a2 (and even k24) was around at the same time. With the k20 from the CTR or even the L15b around, dumping a ton of money and time into the k20C2 will bring diminishing returns

This is most certainly not the case. Displacement and cylinder count is probably about all those two have in common. The fact that you don't know that shows how challenging this whole thing would be. Not even trying to sound rude but you've got some research to do.