Installed Perrin Motor Mount Inserts and Type R subframe brace.

fabrizzio71

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Greetings,

I just wanted to share my experience installing these parts.

First, the subframe brace: I don’t know about anyone else who has installed this, but I had a considerable problem with one of the threaded holes for the subframe brace. Before I even did anything, I sprayed the holes with silicone lubricant. For the driver’s side hole, I could thread the bolt by hand all the way through. The passenger side however I had significant problems. I could thread it smoothly a few rotations and then it would stop. I forced it a little and pulled it back out and there was evidence of black paint in the threads. However the other side had black paint also and wasn’t an issue. I figured there was debris in there or some kind if issue with the threaded hole. I tried then using a socket and ratchet to see if I could get the bolt through. There was resistance the whole time, which isn’t a good sign and I was worried it stripped. Pulled it back out and some of the threads were worn down but didn’t strip. I believe there was some kind if burr in the threaded hole causing this. I tried feeling out the hole with a small screwdriver but couldn’t discover anything. I decided to go ahead with installation and was able to get both bolts torqued to 55 ft lbs which is the torque spec from the manual.

The Perrin Inserts: No one has mentioned this, but it is impossible to get the 19mm bolt out for the transmission mount using a standard socket and ratchet or breaker bar. This of course means it is impossible to use a torque wrench-there is not nearly enough clearance between the bolt head and the exhaust to do so. I couldn’t find my 19mm ratcheting wrench so I had to use an adjustable open ended wrench to get it off and on. I had to guess on what 69lbs-ft felt like putting it back on. I don’t know how anyone else has torqued that bolt correctly without removing the front pipe. To get the mount with inserts installed back in, using a rubber mallet really helped. I also fully lubricated the rubber portion of the factory mount with silicone before installing the inserts.

Impressions-there is definitely a more direct feel to clutch engagement and vibration from the engine at idle and lower rpms. It makes it easier to tell what is going on with the car. I really like it so far. Everything feels tighter in the front end-engine response and quick steering inputs.
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piterek

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Undoing just a few more fasteners on the plastic shield further back and inside the well would yield clear access to the front bolt and for the torque wrench. I used an offset adapter on the torque wrench for the rear bolt. I had the car (FK7) raised pretty good though.
 
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fabrizzio71

fabrizzio71

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Undoing just a few more fasteners on the plastic shield further back and inside the well would yield clear access to the front bolt and for the torque wrench. I used an offset adapter on the torque wrench for the rear bolt. I had the car (FK7) raised pretty good though.
Thanks, do you mean you used something like this?

Sunex 9708 3/8-Inch Drive Fractional Crowfoot Flare Nut Wrench Set, 3/8-Inch - 7/8-Inch, Fully Polished, 8-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LQDBXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bSu1Eb26J2H1T

There are longer 12 point torque adaptors but I can only find them in SAE not metric. I guess that’s what I needed to still use a torque wrench. To clarify, I didn’t have issues with the rear 17 mm bolt as I already had that cover down to install the type R brace. It is the front end of the transmission mount next to the exhaust-the exhaust is in the way. I just wish this was mentioned in the instructions.
 

aethecarfanatic

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Thank you for the write up! I have both of these sitting in my closet waiting for install in a few weekends when I head up to my buddy's house who has a lift. Definitely made me even more excited than I already am!
 


piterek

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fenix-silver

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Somewhat different, but same idea. You would typically account for the extra length (~1") and offset angle in the torque value, but for this application I just kept it in line with the wrench... close enough.
Yup, this is certainly a part where "close-enough" should be just fine. And always use antiseize. Your future self will thank you.
 

saiko21

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I guess someone mentioned it in the installation video that you need to pry the downpipe a little to access the bolt
 

saiko21

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Somewhat different, but same idea. You would typically account for the extra length (~1") and offset angle in the torque value, but for this application I just kept it in line with the wrench... close enough.
Did you use torque wrench to torque it to exact values?. I am planning to do Whiteline insert and type R brace. Both are sitting in the closet from past few weeks.

Planning to deal all together this weekend including oil change
 

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Did you use torque wrench to torque it to exact values?. I am planning to do Whiteline insert and type R brace. Both are sitting in the closet from past few weeks.

Planning to deal all together this weekend including oil change
If I recall when I did mine I was able to get a universal joint adapter on the socket when tightening things up. You won't get an accurate torque value though when using a universal joint that isn't straight on, but IMO it's not that critical for a part like this. Close enough is fine.
 


saiko21

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If I recall when I did mine I was able to get a universal joint adapter on the socket when tightening things up. You won't get an accurate torque value though when using a universal joint that isn't straight on, but IMO it's not that critical for a part like this. Close enough is fine.
cool, thank you I need to get a loaner torque wrench from Autozone as I don't have one. I thought we can just use the 19mm socket and torque it but looking at OP post I was checking how to torque properly. Also, I read somewhere that under torque or over torque to RMM can cause issues and snap off the mount itself. I am not 100% sure though
 

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I received the CTR subframe brace a few weeks ago and was very underwhelmed when I saw it. Haven't gotten around to installing it yet but I don't have high hopes tbh. Doesn't look like it'll do much.
 

saiko21

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I received the CTR subframe brace a few weeks ago and was very underwhelmed when I saw it. Haven't gotten around to installing it yet but I don't have high hopes tbh. Doesn't look like it'll do much.
It's actually bracing the chassis and makes it stiffer. Yes, the civic chassis is stiffer but it makes it little more stiffer. That's the reason it's on Type R
 
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fabrizzio71

fabrizzio71

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I guess someone mentioned it in the installation video that you need to pry the downpipe a little to access the bolt
From my experience you’d have to pry it quite a lot to use a socket and ratchet-like at least an inch. That didn’t seem to be something that would be good to try.
 

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I just removed my Perrin insert after a few hundred miles(400-500). Turned the AC on and it vibrated the whole car lol. I could watch my wing vibrate in the rear view. So it had to go. Other than that is was good.
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