Clutch delay valve delete? Is it worth it?

[Spence]

Hi guys, with my act clutch in my si, its a little annoying feeling like I have to granny shift the thing. Like you kinda gotta pause for a second between shifts to get a perfect shift, if you don't you get a kinda clunk. Not as noticeable when ripping along but. Mainly it was an experiment I wanted to try.


I bought a spare slave cylinder, attempted to do the delay valve tonight, and failed miserably as I scratched the sealing surface where the cap sits in the process upon extracting the stubborn delay valve.

Anybody think its actually worth it in the end? As in getting another slave cylinder and trying again?


Thanks
-Spence

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[speedyserg]

Hi guys, with my act clutch, its a little annoying feeling like I have to granny shift the thing. Like you kinda gotta pause for a second between shifts to get a perfect shift, if you don't you get a kinda clunk. Not as noticeable when ripping along but. Mainly it was an experiment I wanted to try.


I bought a spare slave cylinder, attempted to do the delay valve tonight, and failed miserably as I scratched the sealing surface where the cap sits in the process upon extracting the stubborn delay valve.

Anybody think its actually worth it in the end? As in getting another slave cylinder and trying again?


Thanks
-Spence

Call JSR engines- they have a ported and delay valve deleted slave cyl available ready to ship. Flows more fluid and removes the "pause" feeling

https://www.jsrengines.com/product/jsr-modified-fk8-clutch-master-cylinder-honda-civic-type-r

 

[Spence]

Call JSR engines- they have a ported and delay valve deleted slave cyl available ready to ship. Flows more fluid and removes the "pause" feeling

https://www.jsrengines.com/product/jsr-modified-fk8-clutch-master-cylinder-honda-civic-type-r

You think its worth it in the end though? Idk a bit peaved rn tbh
It appears the type r slave that they stock is different than the si one. But yea, you said call, maybe theyll have one for an si

 

[Benster]

I don't think you should slam gears in these transmissions anyways to be honest, they seem fairly fragile to this. Take your time shifting, if you want a trans you can slam get a k or B-series transmission.

 

[Spence]

I don't think you should slam gears in these transmissions anyways to be honest, they seem fairly fragile to this. Take your time shifting, if you want a trans you can slam get a k or B-series transmission.

Wasn't really looking to slam gears, just to be optimized considering I upgraded my clutch, you gotta shift slower at times which is annoying. It never really grinds just a little clunk at times, its just annoying. I'm still on the fence about doing the delay valve delete especially after possibly throwing $118 away scratching the bore upon removing the actual delay valve.

 

[Jason Baker]

Yeah and for $275, the JSR one will cook you dinner right before f&$@ing you. So there’s that, which is nice.
Worth it? If you plan to increase power, then yes you will need too likely.

but ….$275 worth it? Ehhhhhh no!

 

[Spence]

Yeah and for $275, the JSR one will cook you dinner right before f&$@ing you. So there’s that, which is nice.
Worth it? If you plan to increase power, then yes you will need too likely.

but ….$275 worth it? Ehhhhhh no!

I'm already pretty modded out lol I should have mentioned, but thanks ACT HDSS street clutch kit, intake exhaust, ARP headstuds, fresh headgasket, GSC valve seals, TSP stage one tune, hasport motor mounts and a couple other things..

If its worth it, I'm gonna try to get a new one and try again, see if I can get it warrantied.

 

[Old F@rt]

I'm already pretty modded out lol I should have mentioned, but thanks ACT HDSS street clutch kit, intake exhaust, ARP headstuds, fresh headgasket, GSC valve seals, TSP stage one tune, hasport motor mounts and a couple other things..

If its worth it, I'm gonna try to get a new one and try again, see if I can get it warrantied.

What about a modified CMC? I assumed you already had one installed, but you haven't mentioned it.
It was my understanding that the CDV delete put a lot of shock into the powertrain.

 

[Spence]

What about a modified CMC? I assumed you already had one installed, but you haven't mentioned it.
It was my understanding that the CDV delete put a lot of shock into the powertrain.

Actually no my slave and master cylinder are all stock. Idk I might just chock this up as a failure and leave my hydraulics alone. My hope was since I have an ACT clutch, a delay valve delete would help the clutch engage and disengage faster at the expense of learning how to be careful upon releasing the clutch when shifting.

All this to help with making the car shift as smooth as it can. But maybe a different cmc, as some have said though, the pedal gets a lot firmer that way.

 

[Old F@rt]

Actually no my slave and master cylinder are all stock. Idk I might just chock this up as a failure and leave my hydraulics alone. My hope was since I have an ACT clutch, a delay valve delete would help the clutch engage and disengage faster at the expense of learning how to be careful upon releasing the clutch when shifting.

All this to help with making the car shift as smooth as it can. But maybe a different cmc, as some have said though, the pedal gets a lot firmer that way.

I would go the CMC route first & see if that cures the issue. I have a KZCMC ( type R retro clutch & flywheel) that I installed a few months after the clutch. It feels almost identical to stock CMC, so I wouldn't be concerned about a big change in pedal feel.
If you are handy, you can modify your own CMC into a KZCMC- involves drilling & solder work. There is an article somewhere here about it.

 

[Spence]

I would go the CMC route first & see if that cures the issue. I have a KZCMC ( type R retro clutch & flywheel) that I installed a few months after the clutch. It feels almost identical to stock CMC, so I wouldn't be concerned about a big change in pedal feel.
If you are handy, you can modify your own CMC into a KZCMC- involves drilling & solder work. There is an article somewhere here about it.

I think I already found the writeup on this group to mod the stock master cylinder. Doesn't look terribly difficult, but I'm also not sure if its totally worth it.

Really looks like its just braising the damper cavity off or plugging it with holes tapped for set screws so its bypassed.

I might urge myself to keep the delay valve and get rid of the damper in the master?

 

[Old F@rt]

I think I already found the writeup on this group to mod the stock master cylinder. Doesn't look terribly difficult, but I'm also not sure if its totally worth it.

Really looks like its just braising the damper cavity off or plugging it with holes tapped for set screws so its bypassed.

I might urge myself to keep the delay valve and get rid of the damper in the master?

Correct, it's bypassing the damper & going direct. Guys that were having lockout issues at high RPMs went this route & from what I read, it fixed it. I would say it's totally worth doing.

 

[Spence]

Correct, it's bypassing the damper & going direct. Guys that were having lockout issues at high RPMs went this route & from what I read, it fixed it. I would say it's totally worth doing.

Correct, it's bypassing the damper & going direct. Guys that were having lockout issues at high RPMs went this route & from what I read, it fixed it. I would say it's totally worth doing.

I found a really easy option, I ordered a valex racing kit for the 10th gen. Comes with a stainless braided clutch line and an older clutch master cylinder that has no damper. Its a daikin / excedy brand

Got my fingers crossed its a good choice lol

 

[Old F@rt]

I found a really easy option, I ordered a valex racing kit. Comes with a stainless braided clutch line and an older clutch master cylinder that has no damper. Its a daikin / excedy brand

Got my fingers crossed its a good choice lol

Awesome !
As an FYI, removing the OEM rubber clutch line might ( will) be a bitch. Seems like Honda way over-torqued the fittings on every car that anyone has worked on. Get yourself a "Flared end wrench" & use that to break the fitting free vs a regular open end wrench. I had to actually brace the clutch line bracket, as it took that much effort to break it free, so just be ready. Good luck with install & hope it sorts the issue.

 

[Spence]

Awesome !
As an FYI, removing the OEM rubber clutch line might ( will) be a bitch. Seems like Honda way over-torqued the fittings on every car that anyone has worked on. Get yourself a "Flared end wrench" & use that to break the fitting free vs a regular open end wrench. I had to actually brace the clutch line bracket, as it took that much effort to break it free, so just be ready. Good luck with install & hope it sorts the issue.

Thanks for the heads up. I am slightly worried its not gonna fit cause the shafts look like they're different lengths. So hopefully I'll be ok, might be taking things apart lol. Says it will fit a 10th gen civic with the manual transmission, now I'm scared the si and base model master cylinders might be different.

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