Autocross STH Class thread!

[Benster]

On stock springs, my 255s aren't rubbing at all and the Dekas seem like they'd accept a fairly large brake set-up. There's more than an inch of space between the caliper and the spokes. I'm not looking at going super big on BBKs so I never really checked how tight the barrel is. Most I'll prob end up doing is the Wunderladen BBK IF I have enough money to allow this car on a proper racetrack. For autox, I don't feel much bigger brakes are really needed, just good rotors and pads as you shouldn't need as much thermal mass as on a race track. More realistically I'll probably do SI brake upgrade and stay there.

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[WOPSiWOT]

On stock springs, my 255s aren't rubbing at all and the Dekas seem like they'd accept a fairly large brake set-up. There's more than an inch of space between the caliper and the spokes. I'm not looking at going super big on BBKs so I never really checked how tight the barrel is. Most I'll prob end up doing is the Wunderladen BBK IF I have enough money to allow this car on a proper racetrack. For autox, I don't feel much bigger brakes are really needed, just good rotors and pads as you shouldn't need as much thermal mass as on a race track. More realistically I'll probably do SI brake upgrade and stay there.

Oh yeah, stock ride height you can go nuts. BBK def not needed for autox, but for track yes. Someone on here has the Wunderladen BBK with a 17” Konig wheel. Probably Decagrams. You can search for it, there are pics on here some place.

 

[FC1Dawn]

I agree with you. I love the way they look when they are fitted up with the 660s. It looks super aggressive. Whenever I have them on I think I just want to run them all the time. Other people dig it too. Get comments at gas station heading to events and at tech. You need to be able to get -2 degrees front camber to run comfortably with a 255. If you can do that then it will work. RPF 1 does come with some compromise around clearance (see BBK comment above) but I do really like them so worth it to me. Konigs might give more clearance (I haven’t looked into that specific design) and are also a good lightweight wheel option. +40 is probably a better offset if I’m being honest. But definitely possible to run the RPF1, especially as a competition wheel and not a daily.

The more and more I read and look, it's looking like I'm going with 17x9 +40's. I don't think I want to run -2 degrees front haha.

On stock springs, my 255s aren't rubbing at all and the Dekas seem like they'd accept a fairly large brake set-up. There's more than an inch of space between the caliper and the spokes. I'm not looking at going super big on BBKs so I never really checked how tight the barrel is. Most I'll prob end up doing is the Wunderladen BBK IF I have enough money to allow this car on a proper racetrack. For autox, I don't feel much bigger brakes are really needed, just good rotors and pads as you shouldn't need as much thermal mass as on a race track. More realistically I'll probably do SI brake upgrade and stay there.

Similar to my plan as well. I was going to pick up 27Won BBK and these SuperSpeed RF05RR's can easily clear them. But I doubt I'd use the BBK to its fullest, and for the price of a BBK, I can easily get a good set of pads and rotors(+fluid) and some change.

 

[WOPSiWOT]

The more and more I read and look, it's looking like I'm going with 17x9 +40's. I don't think I want to run -2 degrees front haha.


Similar to my plan as well. I was going to pick up 27Won BBK and these SuperSpeed RF05RR's can easily clear them. But I doubt I'd use the BBK to its fullest, and for the price of a BBK, I can easily get a good set of pads and rotors(+fluid) and some change.

I think 17x9 +40 will give you a nice fitment. Post up pics when you get it setup.

 

[86salmon]

The more and more I read and look, it's looking like I'm going with 17x9 +40's. I don't think I want to run -2 degrees front haha.


Similar to my plan as well. I was going to pick up 27Won BBK and these SuperSpeed RF05RR's can easily clear them. But I doubt I'd use the BBK to its fullest, and for the price of a BBK, I can easily get a good set of pads and rotors(+fluid) and some change.

I looked in the 27won bbk thread and folks are able to run ampliforms and hyper gram in that fitment

 

[WOPSiWOT]

Got my hands on a Karcepts RSB so I swapped out the 22mm Whiteline today. First chance to test it out will be March 16 up at zMax. The design is really smart. Smooth install and changing the stiffness settings is very easy (though I can’t do it on the ground, need to be up on ramps to have enough space.)

 

[FC1Dawn]

Looks beefy!

On my Whiteline RSB install, I crossthreaded my driver side RSB bracket. I was able to rethread it correctly, it's kinda gritty, but it torques down to spec. I dread the day I end up replacing the Whiteline RSB for something stiffer or back to OEM.

Let us know how that Karcepts RSB feels.

I ordered a pair of Konig Ultragrams last week, hoping to get RE-71RS's in this week since I have 4 events in March. Gunna order through Tire Rack and get them heat cycled as well.

 

[FC1Dawn]

Konig Ultragrams came in, I think these look really good. But, now I'm getting second thoughts as running a 255/40/17's in fronts and the 245/40/18's rears might make the reverse stagger look a bit goofy. (Imagine the front of the car pointing to the right).

EDIT:
I could run 245/45/17 fronts instead and that would even out everything, including speedo. Problem is going from 255 to 245, and getting a taller sidewall. Not sure how much more flex I'd get with a 45 sidewall or how much less "feel" I'd receive. But I feel like downsizing to 245 and getting a taller sidewall is not the move... Thoughts?

 

[Benster]

What type of tire are you going with? Something like the RT660s have very stiff sidewalls and you probably won't lose a ton of feeling in the steering. If you go to something like a Yoko A052 then taller sidewalls will make the ride a lot more vague.

Also, if you just run that when you're on track, as long as it works, who cares if it looks goofy if you beat their times?

 

[FC1Dawn]

What type of tire are you going with? Something like the RT660s have very stiff sidewalls and you probably won't lose a ton of feeling in the steering. If you go to something like a Yoko A052 then taller sidewalls will make the ride a lot more vague.

Currently thinking about going with 245/45/17 RE71RS's. Down the line, to save on money, probably V730's, I've heard these have stiff sidewalls as well.

Also, if you just run that when you're on track, as long as it works, who cares if it looks goofy if you beat their times?

Me

 

[WOPSiWOT]

I had the first opportunity to run the Karcepts bar in an autocross setting. I had it set on 3/3, so 1265in/lbs. 3x stock stiffness. Whoa. That was a lot of bar for me, it turns out. I went from managing understeer to fighting oversteer. I think it may have held me back some because it felt like the back just wanted to come around when I got on the power. A better driver could take advantage, but it was a handful for me. I’ll probably dial it back for the next event and see how that works. BUT SHE ROTATES! Hopefully I’ll get to a point where I can handle it a bit better.

 

[Benster]

Too much rotation is not a good thing, even for a good driver. Try the softest setting next and see what that does. The middle setting will be in between those. Best to go from one end to the other first to understand what min and max settings do to the car.

 

[FC1Dawn]

And I had the opportunity to run the 200TW / 340 TW split! Konig Ultragram 17x9 +40 on 245/45 RE71RS's fronts. Didn't lose much steering feel due to the stiffer sidewalls. These things are sticky!

Quick phone pic at the paddock.

(Photo creds: @slow_car_slow on IG)

I will say, the split TW + pedal dance makes the rear LIVELY. On my 2nd run out, I tried MAP 2 on the TSP Stage 1 tune, took the main sweeper hot (full throttle through it) and the rear kicked out. Angle was too sharp so I let off, lost it, nailed a cone but stayed on course. I should've just pedaled it and it would've straightened out. I have a video of it but I can't seem to upload it.

I personally enjoy this set up a lot as it helps rotate the rear when I want it to. I can throw it around, flick it, and I get that oversteer I want. If it's too loose, I just lower the rear tire pressure (running 34 or 35 psi front and 40 psi rear, seems to have a good balance of grip and oversteer).

Took 1st in STH that event and was fairly happy!

 

[Redwing]

" Hah, fun."
* Proceeds to power slide hard*
" Wow, that was cool."
" I told you it could power slide. More throttle equals less of the fun'z."

 

[Benster]

40 psi rear!! Damn, I was running like 28 last summer with my 225/45 200tw tires just to get the whole surface of the tires to stick. 35 Front was what I was doing too, worked well. Can't wait to try the 255/40 RT660s though, the little bit of street driving I did was pretty impressive. Prob gonna start at 35 front and 30 rear as that seemed to scrub the whole tire contact area when driving. Maybe someone can tell me how I'm wrong doing it this way, def open to learning.

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