Life at 70k

[86salmon]

Digging your curly license plate mod.

Makes it look like it's moving fast

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[86salmon]

Lastly, I'm no audiophile but anyone have info on upgrading our headunit for a bit better better audio output, along with replacement speakers and sub? Thanks!

Hondahack and viper4android make a significant difference in sound quality with the EQ

Adding good sound dampening in the doors and rear deck also makes a big difference

As of now, I have CDT audio midbass in the doors that are tremendous for the money.

https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/hd6cv.php

For tweeters, I was able to pressure fit these Peerless, vifa style, xt ring radiators. They have fabric domes and are much smoother and much much more accurate than the factory speakers

https://www.parts-express.com/Peerl...3kl4olGQjPe1PchGmKOW6gqP7QQwf2wBoCo28QAvD_BwE

I just got this adapter for a Kicker 8. It's ts parameters are pretty good for free air application and they have much better output than the factory sub. Definitely add sound dampening to the rear deck as well as between the rear glass and deck. It's a source of annoying vibration

https://mobilemaxcaraudio.com/produ...cker-8-subwoofer-factory-replacement-package/

 

[Ronny2019]

Next I may go for Torco, if I dont like it I will go back to Royal Purple

Try ac delco synchromesh with friction modifiers You have trier the rest now try the best
Throw a sub in the trunk and replace your interior speakers and amps

 

[Refried_Loaf]

Digging your curly license plate mod.

Video tolls hate this one simple trick

 

[Refried_Loaf]

Hondahack and viper4android make a significant difference in sound quality with the EQ

Adding good sound dampening in the doors and rear deck also makes a big difference

As of now, I have CDT audio midbass in the doors that are tremendous for the money.

https://www.cdtaudio.com/cdtnew22/products/components/woofers/midwoofers/hd6cv.php

For tweeters, I was able to pressure fit these Peerless, vifa style, xt ring radiators. They have fabric domes and are much smoother and much much more accurate than the factory speakers

https://www.parts-express.com/Peerl...3kl4olGQjPe1PchGmKOW6gqP7QQwf2wBoCo28QAvD_BwE

I just got this adapter for a Kicker 8. It's ts parameters are pretty good for free air application and they have much better output than the factory sub. Definitely add sound dampening to the rear deck as well as between the rear glass and deck. It's a source of annoying vibration

https://mobilemaxcaraudio.com/produ...cker-8-subwoofer-factory-replacement-package/

I have Hondahack currently but vastly underutilized all its features! I couldnt remember what the viper4android was. This is all the exact information I was looking for! Thanks!

 

[Refried_Loaf]

Try ac delco synchromesh with friction modifiers You have trier the rest now try the best
Throw a sub in the trunk and replace your interior speakers and amps

I have already tried the ac delco as well as the pennzoil and valvoline variations, I did not add the friction modifier however.

I like my limited trunk space, isnt there a company that makes molded panels for the inside corner of trunks that accepts up to 10in subs?

 

[86salmon]

I like my limited trunk space, isnt there a company that makes molded panels for the inside corner of trunks that accepts up to 10in subs?

There was a member on here making enclosures, but I don't think they're active anymore.

Try a local custom shop

This is an 8 in a custom box I have in my trunk

 

[Ronny2019]

I have already tried the ac delco as well as the pennzoil and valvoline variations, I did not add the friction modifier however.

I like my limited trunk space, isnt there a company that makes molded panels for the inside corner of trunks that accepts up to 10in subs?

not for a is coupe and the friction modifiers help the lsd

 

[SethNES]

I have already tried the ac delco as well as the pennzoil and valvoline variations, I did not add the friction modifier however.

I like my limited trunk space, isnt there a company that makes molded panels for the inside corner of trunks that accepts up to 10in subs?

If you want limited trunk space then try throwing a full size spare in trunk.

Maybe I'm crazy but spare actually helped me once so far when got a semi long rod from road construction stuck into tire and had to change myself. Rod was sticking out so much was hitting wheel well but was pulling into neighborhood so didn't go far and no other damage visible. Si doesn't even come with spare but some pussy filler shit that I doubt would help a small rebar rod stuck into tire. You can buy overpriced spare kits that hide below but still a small spare. Small spares suck but still better than trying to patch damaged tire or stuck on side of road.

 

[Ronny2019]

If you want limited trunk space then try throwing a full size spare in trunk.

Maybe I'm crazy but spare actually helped me once so far when got a semi long rod from road construction stuck into tire and had to change myself. Rod was sticking out so much was hitting wheel well but was pulling into neighborhood so didn't go far and no other damage visible. Si doesn't even come with spare but some pussy filler shit that I doubt would help a small rebar rod stuck into tire. You can buy overpriced spare kits that hide below but still a small spare. Small spares suck but still better than trying to patch damaged tire or stuck on side of road.

I don't travel that far to need a spare and when I do I have AAA also that inflator will not work on a chunk of rebar but it did save me 2 times when I had a slow leak. I used the inflator with the juice for like 10 seconds and filled the rest with air and it worked like a charm. In fact the wheels still are holding air a year later. But nice

 

[niknav]

Hey y'all, figured I'd make a little diary of sorts here, giving some insight on what they can expect owning a 10th gen civic long term. Unless something major happens I'll probably update once I hit 100k. Bought this car brand new in the 4th quarter of 2018 (Nov)

What I have: '19 Civic Si Sedan Platinum White
Currently just crested 70k miles of mixed driving, city, freeway race and cruising

History: Tuned with K Tuner by D-rob at IMW with 800mi, completely stock. Used as a test bench to verify that previous, current (at the time) and next years version should work as intended. Car has not skipped a beat ever since then nor has it made any funny noises.

I've put on a few mods since then;

Performance:
27Won Cold air (non race), Burger Motorsports FMIC (stock charge pipes), V1 RV6 Catted downpipe (stock front/mid pipe) w/ custom 2.5in exhaust (zero drone). Whiteline RMM (harsh vibes at low rpm in 2-3, which was expected), Skunk 2 lowering springs

Visual: Aodhan AH07 wheels, Morimoto HID bulb conversion (even after adjustment I still get flashed), Amazon special front lip

Plenty of future plans but its my daily so it can wait. Still rocking the same oem clutch, never replaced nor does it slip. A bit overzealous of my oil changes and trans fluid change. I recommend 0w20, no heavier and personally I'm using mobile 1 oil with a bosch filter and change it ever 6-6500mi, my research has shown that with the amount of detergents on the oils if you change it too quickly then you defeat the purpose of its advantages, even with DI engines.

Ive swapped between several different fluids for my trans, both pennzoil and valvoline synchomesh was by far the worst. AmsOil made shifting feel wayy to crunchy to the point where I thought my cables were binding already, Royal Purple gave me the best shift feeling by far and have stuck with that the most!


Eventually I'll add some decent pics of it when I remember to. A few key things I wanted to mention, I did the ruthenium plug and I driving it for 30k miles I really didnt feel a difference but I may when I actually do flex and turbo upgrade. Reminder, I have 70k on my clutch and I remember seeing people roasting theirs at sub 15k, I have no idea how they managed that, lastly Im still rocking the same brakes and rotors from when I drove off the lot, they brake exceptionally well but really hard braking I feel vibration so I'm sure I can squeeze a good bit more miles as long as I'm mindful but if anyone has some suggestions for both pads and rotors I'd love to hear them. Cheers!

hey, would you mind disclosing what you paid for a brand new 19 si? im in the market for a used 19, but im unsure what the price i should ask for should be on a used 19 with about 12.5k miles on it.

 

[pinhead66]

hey, would you mind disclosing what you paid for a brand new 19 si? im in the market for a used 19, but im unsure what the price i should ask for should be on a used 19 with about 12.5k miles on it.

I got my 19 Si in June 2019 for $22,750 before TTL. MSRP was ~$25,500. I only have 17k miles now and KBB is saying $25k private party.

 

[pinhead66]

Hey y'all, figured I'd make a little diary of sorts here, giving some insight on what they can expect owning a 10th gen civic long term. Unless something major happens I'll probably update once I hit 100k. Bought this car brand new in the 4th quarter of 2018 (Nov)

What I have: '19 Civic Si Sedan Platinum White
Currently just crested 70k miles of mixed driving, city, freeway race and cruising

History: Tuned with K Tuner by D-rob at IMW with 800mi, completely stock. Used as a test bench to verify that previous, current (at the time) and next years version should work as intended. Car has not skipped a beat ever since then nor has it made any funny noises.

I've put on a few mods since then;

Performance:
27Won Cold air (non race), Burger Motorsports FMIC (stock charge pipes), V1 RV6 Catted downpipe (stock front/mid pipe) w/ custom 2.5in exhaust (zero drone). Whiteline RMM (harsh vibes at low rpm in 2-3, which was expected), Skunk 2 lowering springs

Visual: Aodhan AH07 wheels, Morimoto HID bulb conversion (even after adjustment I still get flashed), Amazon special front lip

Plenty of future plans but its my daily so it can wait. Still rocking the same oem clutch, never replaced nor does it slip. A bit overzealous of my oil changes and trans fluid change. I recommend 0w20, no heavier and personally I'm using mobile 1 oil with a bosch filter and change it ever 6-6500mi, my research has shown that with the amount of detergents on the oils if you change it too quickly then you defeat the purpose of its advantages, even with DI engines.

Ive swapped between several different fluids for my trans, both pennzoil and valvoline synchomesh was by far the worst. AmsOil made shifting feel wayy to crunchy to the point where I thought my cables were binding already, Royal Purple gave me the best shift feeling by far and have stuck with that the most!


Eventually I'll add some decent pics of it when I remember to. A few key things I wanted to mention, I did the ruthenium plug and I driving it for 30k miles I really didnt feel a difference but I may when I actually do flex and turbo upgrade. Reminder, I have 70k on my clutch and I remember seeing people roasting theirs at sub 15k, I have no idea how they managed that, lastly Im still rocking the same brakes and rotors from when I drove off the lot, they brake exceptionally well but really hard braking I feel vibration so I'm sure I can squeeze a good bit more miles as long as I'm mindful but if anyone has some suggestions for both pads and rotors I'd love to hear them. Cheers!

How has the BMS intercooler worked for you? Does it keep the car from heatsoaking during extended regular driving on really hot days?

 

[niknav]

I got my 19 Si in June 2019 for $22,750 before TTL. MSRP was ~$25,500. I only have 17k miles now and KBB is saying $25k private party.

damn, thanks for your help. these cars actually increase in value lol i've been trying to find a good deal but all the low mileage cars seem to be above msrp in 2019.

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