Weird sound and ACC, CMBS & RDM lights

[Enzym]

5 months and already a problem with my civic, am I going to miss my corolla no but maybe for the reliability? Lol in 5 years no problem.

I was driving quietly at 90 km/h and suddenly the ACC, CMBS & RDM lights and the electronic arm brake light came on.

I also just noticed a strange noise that seems close to the "shifter" when I barely touch the brake, is it related, any idea?? see video

Info that may be useful:

1. I never use the arm brake or the parking brake, except when I park on a hill. (I didn't use it today)
2. I often deactivate and activate the VAS. (I used it today)

I hope you can help me, can I go to work tomorrow with it? 25min round trip.

 

[dt10g]

Just a screenshot of your dash from your video
and some information if helps others diagnose:

from the 2018 5-door Canada owners manual

The icon lower right is our Parking Brake icon in Canada ...

 

[dt10g]

Offhand the first three yellow lights suggest a related problem... with the camera or radar maybe?

While yellow lights are never great, I would not think that those 3 are necessarily a reason NOT to drive the car... You would just have to realize that you have lost this functionality until it can be diagnosed and resolved. My car doesn't even HAVE that functionality lol

I would be more concerned with that Brake light, although if it is just due to the parking brake (which you say you do not use) or the Brake Hold function (which is again not a huge loss of function) ... then again maybe not a reason to stop driving the car. But if you think there is any issue with actual braking then suggest do not drive until you have a better diagnosis or resolution.

Note that our manual has a different RED light that can come on as concerns the brake...
if I saw THAT ONE... then I would definitely not drive the car.

This is apparently NOT the warning you are getting, but I am posting it just for your awareness

I would check the brake system as they describe above,
if you feel there is any question of your safety do not drive it...

You could always phone your dealer and ask their advice, kind of under the auspices of "Would I be OK to drive this car into you for service?"... they should at least advise that much I'd think...

PS.
It goes without saying that I am not a mechanic, nor a lawyer, and this is just some dude on the internet's gut feel. You do whatever you are comfortable with. Hopefully others will give you more technical advice...

PS2.

What is the "i" information icon telling you?
if you go to the Wrench display on the dash ...

 

[Enzym]

thank you for the post, the car and the brakes work perfectly well, I will come back with more details tomorrow afternoon

 

[vtecr]

It's an automatic, right?

The noise you're hearing is probably the lock-out that prevents the shifter from being moved without the brake being applied.

Does it work normally if you turn off collision mitigation? Not sure if that applies to your Canadian model but we can deactivate it on the European models. I once had my collision mitigation go mental because of rain and flies stuck to the cover on the radar, as silly as it sounds.

 

[Enzym]

The same lights are still on.
Twice there was the sound of the CMBS while driving at 90km/h again.
I washed the radar camera with windshield washer and the radar with soap water when I arrived from work then restarted the car; lights still on. (both was very dirty...)

While yellow lights are never great, I would not think that those 3 are necessarily a reason NOT to drive the car... You would just have to realize that you have lost this functionality until it can be diagnosed and resolved. My car doesn't even HAVE that functionality lol

Less electronics less trouble!

I would be more concerned with that Brake light, although if it is just due to the parking brake (which you say you do not use) or the Brake Hold function (which is again not a huge loss of function) ... then again maybe not a reason to stop driving the car. But if you think there is any issue with actual braking then suggest do not drive until you have a better diagnosis or resolution.

Note that our manual has a different RED light that can come on as concerns the brake...
if I saw THAT ONE... then I would definitely not drive the car.

The brakes work very well, I don't feel any resistance when I press the accelerator too.
I tried the electronic parking brake too ; the red light turns on and disappears ; no problem.
I'm more worried about the yellow brake light too...

I would check the brake system as they describe above,
if you feel there is any question of your safety do not drive it...

The brake fluid are almost at MAX ; ok.

What is the "i" information icon telling you?

The 3 errors ACC, CMBS & RDM

The noise you're hearing is probably the lock-out that prevents the shifter from being moved without the brake being applied.

I think you're right, but I don't know why (it seems to me) I've never heard it Lol

Does it work normally if you turn off collision mitigation? Not sure if that applies to your Canadian model but we can deactivate it on the European models. I once had my collision mitigation go mental because of rain and flies stuck to the cover on the radar, as silly as it sounds.

I cannot enable/disable CMBS or RDM.
This also happens to me, when it snows sometimes, he tells me that there is a problem with the anti-collision system but the lights disappear automatically.

Seriously i think i will disconnect the battery 10min?
I know it might be a stupid question but if I disconnect the battery, will the ECU reset to the last honda update or reset to the factory Honda ECU like in 2018? Lol
Or is it only when you touch the red and black wire that it resets the ECU?

Maybe it's the radar? I'll look at that side too.

 

[vtecr]

It can only reset to the flash thats on it. Previous versions don't exist on there once it's been flashed with the latest. It would be worth a try to leave the battery disconnected for a while and see if it helps.

 

[Enzym]

It can only reset to the flash thats on it. Previous versions don't exist on there once it's been flashed with the latest.

Thanks, it make more sens LOL

 

[Enzym]

Problem solved ; disconnect the ground (black wire) from the battery 10min. + and after about 10 minutes of driving around town + countryside, all the lights went out.

Now I have a problem with my head unit, it is locked.
I'm sure i enter the good VIN and the good Radio Code Serial Number but the site https://mygarage.honda.com/ tells me that I don't have the right VIN... WTF.
If I go to the site web Honda Recall Checker: Safety Recalls & Product Updates | Honda Canada
my VIN are the good one.

Edit: I guess I'll have to wait until Monday because all the dealers I've called can't help me right now.

 

[vtecr]

This post might be helpful.
https://www.civicx.com/forum/thread...lus-hatchback-build-thread.87583/post-1295703

The user details how they used a US VIN to get the radio code. Maybe have a Google for any 10th gens with the number showing and drop that in.

 

[Enzym]

This post might be helpful.
https://www.civicx.com/forum/thread...lus-hatchback-build-thread.87583/post-1295703

The user details how they used a US VIN to get the radio code. Maybe have a Google for any 10th gens with the number showing and drop that in.

Thanks i try it but it seem i dont got a correct VIN US, ill try again.

Edit: Google image ; problem solved.

 

[Enzym]

Anyone can confirm if the sound are normal?

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