Type R clutch upgrade

[BrokeCTROwner]

Yeah, it's honestly making me just wanna eat the loss on the tune, turn it back to stock and trade the car in and get something else (while the used market is stupidly inflated). I didn't really want to drop another 2k on it when everyone seems to be fine but me.

Can you share some more insight on the delay valve? is this something that would ruin a new clutch if I put one in?

I'm just trying to figure it out. My old 07 spec v ran over 100k miles on the stock clutch, and 70k of them were at more than double the stock hp and torque and those were not casual miles and never once slipped so I really don't want to assume it's me.

The delay valve is in the clutch master cylinder and the intent for it is to reduce driveline shock when clutching in and out but really all it does is severely numb the clutch petal making it difficult to know when the clutch is fully engaged. So given that you’re more experienced my guess would be that you’re giving it throttle before the clutch is actually fully engaged. I’d recommend adjusting your clutch master cylinder if you haven’t already for now and getting a modified clutch master cylinder that has the delay valve removed ASAP. I honestly wouldn’t be surprised if it fixes your issue

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[Godofelru]

The delay valve is in the clutch master cylinder and the intent for it is to reduce driveline shock when clutching in and out but really all it does is severely numb the clutch petal making it difficult to know when the clutch is fully engaged. So given that you’re more experienced my guess would be that you’re giving it throttle before the clutch is actually fully engaged. I’d recommend adjusting your clutch master cylinder if you haven’t already for now and getting a modified clutch master cylinder that has the delay valve removed ASAP. I honestly wouldn’t be surprised if it fixes your issue

Interesting. I'll look into it. Thanks. Any other recommended research into this topic don't hesitate to share.

 

[garoto]

And she wants a stage 4 clutch? Your girl is high maintenance.

 

[SilentSamurai8]

And she wants a stage 4 clutch? Your girl is high maintenance.

"She" also wants something that feels close to stock, yet we are somehow considering unsprung/rigid clutches for some reason.

You won't need a clutch. I am at 490hp and 436tq on stock clutch.

Really? My tuner, who is probably the best in the Bay Area if not CA altogether, says that the threshold he has seen is at around 380WHP before slipping and heightened premature wear is experienced.

I have north of 410WHP at this point (on a DynoJet) with him and haven't experienced significant slipping yet but don't really have much mileage to share an accurate perspective. I respect the mileage you have running that power but from what I've seen, that doesn't seem like the norm. I could be wrong though. I've already been in the market (planning for the future) for a clutch myself but haven't made a decision yet. I think a clutchmaster with increased torque capacity, like their 6/8 puck full discs may be the sweet spot.

 

[SilentSamurai8]

OP, this may be in your wheelhouse.
https://hardmotion.com/civic-type-r/exedy-stage-1-clutch-10th-gen-2017-2021-civic-type-r-fk8-08810/

Exedy makes the OEM clutches for Honda, and this will handle a bit more power (seems like 344WTQ).

However, even their stage two doesn't seem to be rated for some of our gained torque levels.
https://kaijumotorsports.com/products/exedy-stage-2-clutch-kit-honda-civic-type-r-fk8
370WTQ is the suggested range on this one.

From our forum: https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/lets-talk-about-clutch.21194/page-2

Bottom line is, the info is out their. Just stay away from unsprung or ridgid clutches if you want to maintain any resemblance to stock feel. Truly not worth it either unless your pushing some series power and/or launching on slicks.

 

[garoto]

"She" also wants something that feels close to stock, yet we are somehow considering unsprung/rigid clutches for some reason.



Really? My tuner, who is probably the best in the Bay Area if not CA altogether, says that the threshold he has seen is at around 380WHP before slipping and heightened premature wear is experienced.

I have north of 410WHP at this point (on a DynoJet) with him and haven't experienced significant slipping yet but don't really have much mileage to share an accurate perspective. I respect the mileage you have running that power but from what I've seen, that doesn't seem like the norm. I could be wrong though. I've already been in the market (planning for the future) for a clutch myself but haven't made a decision yet. I think a clutchmaster with increased torque capacity, like their 6/8 puck full discs may be the sweet spot.

”She” turned into “we” rather quickly. I see “I want a clutch that…” in the horizon. Lol.

 

[Cinderpop]

You won't need a clutch. I am at 490hp and 436tq on stock clutch.

I don’t have anything but Honda on my FK8 but I am replacing my clutch at 27,000 miles. I bought the car with 20,000 miles. It is still under factory warranty and the warranty of the dealer I bought it under, yet everyone says the clutch is a disposable item and they will not cover it being fixed.

 

[garoto]

I don’t have anything but Honda on my FK8 but I am replacing my clutch at 27,000 miles. I bought the car with 20,000 miles. It is still under factory warranty and the warranty of the dealer I bought it under, yet everyone says the clutch is a disposable item and they will not cover it being fixed.

They’re not wrong. Any clutch going at 27,000 miles is most likely the fault of the driver. I’ve never had a clutch go bad on me prematurely on any car for hundreds of thousands of miles. Both new cars and used cars on over 25 years. If a clutch has a problem from the factory, it’ll show up in the first 100 miles, not a whopping 27,000. And that hardly ever happens.

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