Blows cold on one side .. how do i fix?

Mrparis

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I just noticed the heat only blows on the passenger side and cold on the driver side. Is there anywhere to fix this? I recently had a compressor replaced in my AC under warranty, so not sure if they put it back together, right

I think the dealer does this so you wont notice till it gets cold out...
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Ron21

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bring it back to the dealership.

it should be cover under warranty.

mine its been like few weeks or montsh. Its been leaking again so they replaced it again.

replaced it. Not re-sealing it.

If they just sealed it. not replacing it.
Report it, they being lazy and scamming you for your free 10yrs warranty from Honda Corp.
 

rikuhj

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I found out mine was not filled from the factory. I had blowing not so cold air on the driver's side but the passenger is ice cold. Fixed it with filling it with Freon and driving it around.
 

JohnInATL

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It's low on refrigerant. Take it back and let them know what's going on. And no, they don't do it on purpose. Nobody wants to work on warranty A/C complaints more than once.
 


Cdumpert

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I simply cranked mine to max heat, and it flipped some kind of switch and just started working...
 

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Automatic Climate Control is an air conditioning system that maintains the manually pre-set interior temperature of your car at the desired level. It ensures you and your passengers feel comfortable, regardless of the weather conditions.

Every CR-V comes with automatic climate control.:

The system in LX trims is designed to maintain a driver-selected temperature level throughout cabin, regardless of conditions outside the vehicle.
CR-V Special Edition and above models feature a dual-zone automatic climate control system with independent left and right temperature controls; a single temperature can be selected for the entire cabin, or the driver and front passenger can each set a different temperature for their side of the cabin.
On Touring models, the dual-zone climate control system uses global positioning system (GPS) technology to monitor the vehicle position relative to the sun; it then can make necessary adjustments to ensure that selected interior temperatures remain stable in the respective zones.
https://www.hondainfocenter.com/2021/CR-V/Feature-Guide/Interior-Features/Automatic-Climate-Control/
HTML:
https://www.hondainfocenter.com/2021/CR-V/Feature-Guide/Interior-Features/Automatic-Climate-Control/
(I give up trying to make this look official)

Honda calls them Cabin Air Temperature Sensors

Negative temperature coefficient (NTC) thermistors, resistance temperature detectors (RTDs), thermocouples, and semiconductor-based integrated (IC) sensors.

The four most common types of temperature sensors, ranging in responsiveness and accuracy from high to low are:
● Negative Temperature Coefficient (NTC)
● Thermistors.
● Resistance Temperature Detectors (RTDs)
● Thermocouples.
● Semiconductor-Based Sensors.

The TMP36 is a low voltage, precision centigrade temperature sensor. It provides a voltage output that is linearly proportional to the Celsius temperature.

Thermistor(PTC) have a very high sensitivity, and therefore are very responsive to changes in temperature with faster response time than RTDs(PT100), but smaller temperature range than RTDs. In short both RTDs and Thermistor are electrical thermally sensitive resistors, they are which changes with temperature.

Active control can regulate any size of case while passive can only be relied upon to maintain small, well-sealed cases. Buffers use diffusion to move moisture, so it would take a longer amount of time for the passive system to respond to sudden fluctuations in temperature than active controls.

It could be the sensor or a incorrectly sealed case.
 
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lowlife.drew

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A few posts I agree with. You just had it worked on at the dealership, take it back and have them take a look at it. System might not be fully charged. This is something they should’ve tested after the repair.

How it’s sounding though, seems like a blend door actuator took a crap. Little motor, usually on the side of the heater core box that opens/closes the internal ducts. Fairly simple & cheap to replace. The actuator for my 8th Gen was about ~$40 if I recall correctly, from HondaPartsNow
https://www.hondapartsnow.com/parts...ectrical_exhaust_heater_fuel/heater_unit.html
This is for my ‘19 Si specifically but, should be similar. Parts 8 & 9. Pop the panels off the sides of the center console closer to the front and check for operation while you adjust the temperature. That’s usually where they are but, that’s me being a Nissan mechanic. Should rotate smoothly. Sometimes they’ll click which indicates it’s skipping teeth or they’ll free spin cause the teeth don’t catch at all. Hope this helps and you get your situation sorted out soon; winters on it’s way!
 

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Does your car come with dual climate zones? If so did you check to make sure that they aren't out of sync and one is on heat while the other is cool?
 


KensBlueGenX

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I just noticed the heat only blows on the passenger side and cold on the driver side. Is there anywhere to fix this? I recently had a compressor replaced in my AC under warranty, so not sure if they put it back together, right

I think the dealer does this so you wont notice till it gets cold out...
While this is a classic symptom of low refrigerant, some causes of which are currently covered under extended warranties, there are of course other causes too. Return for a full diagnosis. (Which you may have to pay for if the problem found is not covered.
 

TheCanadian

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If the A/C was failing it would be the reverse. Driver side got and passenger side cold.
Your problem sounds like a blend door
 

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If the A/C was failing it would be the reverse. Driver side got and passenger side cold.
Your problem sounds like a blend door
wouldn't the air temp be the same on both sides? are there two different evap cores for both driver and passenger sides?
 

TheCanadian

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wouldn't the air temp be the same on both sides? are there two different evap cores for both driver and passenger sides?
There is one evap core but my previous statement is incorrect. The evap is indeed in the center of the dash. If it was failing both sides would fail - not just one.
 


 


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