10th gen civic 1.5t CVT Stalling while driving

[Touring1.5tcivici]

I have a 2016 honda civic 1.5t touring and noticed that the car limits rpm and gets stuck at exactly 1000rpm for a brief period of time until I remove my foot off the pedal and tap it again. On one occasion it felt like the car was vibrating and was rough as my foot accelerated while the rpm stayed at 1k. The car currently sits at 96k kms and there are no modifications done other than a AEM engine filter (NOT a cold air or any intake, just a filter swap for a higher quality one, no void of warranty) the filter was replaced 5000kms ago so no clogged air
I'm worried that this may be CVT related, but it will happen on random occasions and might happen once a week or once every two weeks.
I recently got my CVT transmission fluid changed by honda around 9000km ago too.

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[TyresseX]

Any engine light came up?

 

[SDAlexander8]

Make sure your MAF sensor wiring harness is plugged in all the way.

If it is then check and see if you got filter oil on the MAF sensor, possibly from over oiling your filter. I’ve seen it happen before.

 

[Civics4Ever]

I know it was serviced by Honda, but you might want to have the CVT fluid checked for proper amount.

 

[Touring1.5tcivici]

Make sure your MAF sensor wiring harness is plugged in all the way.

If it is then check and see if you got filter oil on the MAF sensor, possibly from over oiling your filter. I’ve seen it happen before.

This is a dry filter, so no oil on sensor issue. Main reason I went with aem over K&n

 

[Touring1.5tcivici]

no engine light either. im at 96k kms and hondas powertrain warranty is 5 years 100k so I most likely will make them take a look. On one instance, my brother drove the car and when he was stopped at a light he took off his seatbelt to remove his winter jacket, the car was in drive and wouldn't move, he said it was like he was in neutral. He put it in park and back and it worked but this shouldn't be happening.

 

[Touring1.5tcivici]

Guys if anyone has this issue let me know. took it to honda they said it idle rought but another civic did the same so there was no issue found. no codes or anything. it happens once a week, rpm gets stuck at 1k rpm and after that vibrates while having foot on gas. tap the gas and the rpm goes back to normal. in terms of warranty they said if a claim was done, we might need service records except I dont have any as it was done privately.

 

[The_Asian]

I know this is a old thread but did anything come from it? I have the cvt transmission with prl race maf and intake (I've cleaned the maf sensor to make sure no oil was on it) tsp tuned with a mishimoto intercooler and I've been experiencing my car stalling. Its usually from going to a stop or moving from a stop where my car will jerk and die and i would have to turn it back on.

 

[xTWISTEDWAYZx]

I know this is a old thread but did anything come from it? I have the cvt transmission with prl race maf and intake (I've cleaned the maf sensor to make sure no oil was on it) tsp tuned with a mishimoto intercooler and I've been experiencing my car stalling. Its usually from going to a stop or moving from a stop where my car will jerk and die and i would have to turn it back on.

I myself am dealing with this on a 2017 1.5t cvt sedan touring. I took it in to a shop who has certified Honda techs working and specialized in transmission repairs but they do all repairs you know. I left it there for a few days and they told me to just get a new/used tranny. They said that something inside isn’t right. 🫤

I noticed my problem start when I changed my wire harness (engine main having other issues). I used a used harness that was falling apart clearly not a good choice. So, I got a new harness and problem still there.

I noticed the rpm’s high the first experience and yes that’s a good sign it’s going to stall out when attempting to stop. Switching to N helps when slowing, putting it back to D as the engine speed hits normal rpm’s. Engine speed often stays above 1000 rpm’s not 700s forcing you to stop with that higher engine rpm resulting in the stall.

( it’s like the engine speed and tranny are not on the same page…slow down slowly, give it time to come down, shift to n then back to d and maybe get them below 1k rpm’s and your stall doesn’t happen)

Stay in N you say until you stop and need to go..? Going back into D still results in a stall. You have to be in a gear when you come to a stop and not stall in order to change the gear and not have it stall and that’s the same for when you leave the stop and that jerk happens, it can stall there if it dies this sucks to deal with lol.

I thought maybe just get stopped and stall and then restart and go into gear but again it can stall on that switch. Along with this I’ve noticed when shifting from park to R or D is like if you parked on an incline and no parking brake is applied. Except the actual shifter isn’t hard to pull into gear it’s normal feeling. That hard shift during warm driving can also have a delayed entry into R or D …

My last tranny went 235k when it quit it was like 1 day of weird behaviors and weakness, then next morning it just stopped working all at once. This feels fine up until you go to stop. Lol, almost just stalling like I’m in a stick and don’t know about the clutch being a thing.

I’ve been dealing with it and not driving it but since that mechanic I’m hoping thatI can hit the lottery with a used low milage replacement. It’s not a huge price tag but after harness, alternator, starter, injectors, the cost is enough to not want to have to deal with the idea of a pos. If I know more at some point then I’ll update this . Till then I’m looking as well .

 

[AyePekkz]

I myself am dealing with this on a 2017 1.5t cvt sedan touring. I took it in to a shop who has certified Honda techs working and specialized in transmission repairs but they do all repairs you know. I left it there for a few days and they told me to just get a new/used tranny. They said that something inside isn’t right. 🫤

I noticed my problem start when I changed my wire harness (engine main having other issues). I used a used harness that was falling apart clearly not a good choice. So, I got a new harness and problem still there.

I noticed the rpm’s high the first experience and yes that’s a good sign it’s going to stall out when attempting to stop. Switching to N helps when slowing, putting it back to D as the engine speed hits normal rpm’s. Engine speed often stays above 1000 rpm’s not 700s forcing you to stop with that higher engine rpm resulting in the stall.

( it’s like the engine speed and tranny are not on the same page…slow down slowly, give it time to come down, shift to n then back to d and maybe get them below 1k rpm’s and your stall doesn’t happen)

Stay in N you say until you stop and need to go..? Going back into D still results in a stall. You have to be in a gear when you come to a stop and not stall in order to change the gear and not have it stall and that’s the same for when you leave the stop and that jerk happens, it can stall there if it dies this sucks to deal with lol.

I thought maybe just get stopped and stall and then restart and go into gear but again it can stall on that switch. Along with this I’ve noticed when shifting from park to R or D is like if you parked on an incline and no parking brake is applied. Except the actual shifter isn’t hard to pull into gear it’s normal feeling. That hard shift during warm driving can also have a delayed entry into R or D …

My last tranny went 235k when it quit it was like 1 day of weird behaviors and weakness, then next morning it just stopped working all at once. This feels fine up until you go to stop. Lol, almost just stalling like I’m in a stick and don’t know about the clutch being a thing.

I’ve been dealing with it and not driving it but since that mechanic I’m hoping thatI can hit the lottery with a used low milage replacement. It’s not a huge price tag but after harness, alternator, starter, injectors, the cost is enough to not want to have to deal with the idea of a pos. If I know more at some point then I’ll update this . Till then I’m looking as well .

Any updates on this?
Also I think I have a similar issue not sure.
My car will just drop rpms around 1700 all the way to around 700 and then the car will bog and rev up to anywhere from 900-1100 rpms once full stop. I haven't been able to drive in D mode either without misfire issues because it sits right around that 1700 range or right above so the car will act super weird.
I've been dealing with this for a year and have not been able to fix it. Very hard to figure out if this is tranny or engine issues or a combination of both. I also have pretty awful stft's but this varies by the day, same with misfires; sometimes its a perfect day sometimes I can't have a clean WOT.

 

[The_Asian]

Yeah so it turns out that it was my BOV from torque solutions causing the issues. When I went to install the prl titanium inlet pipe I opted to not install the bov adapter plate and all my stalling issues went away

 

[gtman]

Yeah so it turns out that it was my BOV from torque solutions causing the issues.

That's a shocker.

Too bad you didn't mention you had a BOV in your post from February.

Side note. If you were part of my tuning reliability thread, you'd know BOVs are very bad news.

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