Whiteline Anti Lift Kit Install install HELP!

[ssmarcus841z]

Hello forum people! I recently bought an ALK for my 2018 Si because of the good things I have hear about them. I was reading the installation instructions and saw that a press is required to remove the OEM bushing housing before replacing it with the ALK, has anyone on here found a way to install the ALK without using a press machine. And if not is their anybody who knows of anybody in the orange county area who has a press machine? Thanks everyone for any advice.

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[Austin@Wunderladen Racing]

A press is the only way to remove the stock rear bushing from the front LCA. It is a very tight fit.

Any auto repair shop will have a press. If you take the arm off and take it to a shop they'll usually just charge a few bucks to press whatever you need pressed.

 

[LBP]

I did it without a press. I gently clamped the LCA in a bench vise (with a rag in the jaws to prevent damaging the LCA) and then used a large screwdriver placed through the bolt holes of the bushing bracket to twist the bushing back and forth slightly while pulling and worked it off the arm. Easy peasy. No damage to either part, far as I could tell. The inner sleeve of the bushing MIGHT have gotten slightly damaged but I could not tell. Didn’t matter to me, I never planned to reuse it anyway.

 

[Narumi]

I have performed several ALK installs for clients at the shop and mobile. No doubt, a traditional hydraulic bench top press is recommended but not necessary to remove the bushing. My 'go to' tool is definitely the press but...

When I'm operating mobile the easiest way to perform the removal is with a propane torch. You will obvious need a safe place to heat the inner bushing's contact surface to the arm. I focus the flame with 30 second intervals on the front and rear for 2 cycles max.

The rubber bushing doesn't need to catch on fire or melt; concentrated heat at the center of the bushings contact point will soften enough to twist off easier. If the rubber is tighter than usual then I will repeat the heat cycling process. An industrial heat gun will also work but require a lot more time concentrating heat at the rubber bushing's contact point.

Please keep in mind torching the rubber can emit some hazardous fumes... an open area with a breeze, gloves, and respiratory mask is advised. Shorter but frequent heating cycles will drastically minimize the fumes. A heat gun is a safer bet but will take a bit longer and more 'elbow grease' when twisting the bushing off the control arm.

IMHO: I prefer to use the hydraulic press because it literally takes seconds to complete (less effort). However, I definitely earn my hourly rate when performing this job mobile.

If you intend to reuse the OEM bushing then the only way to preserve it is to utilize a press.

Oh, and I recommend you looking into this thread: https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/whiteline-anti-lift-kit.40655/page-10
I have experienced this discrepancy on a few installed kits (FC1/FK7/FK8) which eventually created a knocking sound under braking. You can purchase the shims from Konradwax if you have this issue. I have also seen RV6 offer a shim kit for his compliant mount to https://rv6-p.com/collections/civic...ivicx-solid-front-compliance-mount-bushing-v2 so it seems this 'subframe variance' is a common issue.

PS The ALK installed on my FK7 needed the shims

 

[Tomer David]

Have you noticed any problems with the steering or stability in general? I suspect that the ALK bracket play is causing the car to behave badly

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