What did you do to your Type R today?

[aldksgo]

No. Didnt go spitfire.. they make the type r drag car which i dont want to. I want to keep my car a track car. I honestly dont get why ppl use type r to drag.. simply pay less and get a mustang for drag.
I also heard a few fellow told me some type r got internal issue after going for their tune... most of them push 400whp.

I am not going after number... i want the car to actually perform better in the track... stock is good balance to begin with... pushing the number to 400whp doesnt means the car lap faster...
But most of them pushing because they drag their car which i dont.

I am thinking to drop the torque for 10 ... DM me and i can share where and how much inbox.

Cool, just because you mentioned them to me before.

Which place did you go to and how much did it run you to get your dyno/tune sessions? I'm with you it's not a drag car and I like the power stock.

EDIT: Ooops, just saw the last part. Will PM you thanks!

Sponsored

 

[oak]

I don’t know where you guys got your GM Fluid synchromesh friction modified manual transmission fluid 88900399.

The MT capacity is 2.3 quarts and since it generally sells in quart bottles at around $25 each, two won’t do or will it? We either need another smaller bottle or third quart it seems.

How much did you guys replace as maybe .3 quarts residual in the MT?

Not being cheap but since I won’t need to change it again for another 50k miles maybe (100k recommended?) no need to over/under buy.

-Thanks

I pre ordered the GM MTF from the Napa site while ordering some Mobil 1 special for pick up at my local NAPA. Also the Gold oil filters are high quality Much better than stock, purolator, fram etc. Pricing for the GM MTF was $19.xx per qt. I purchased 3 qts and fill to 2.3qts. The manual only recommends 2 qts but to fill to the side fill plug is more like +2.3qts. I have a feeling from factory they are only filled to 2qts. Over time oil pressures drop and viscosity diminishes and the stickiness, lock outs, grinds start to appear. I think it’s essential this be addressed sooner than later to prevent permanent damages.

 

[RepyT]

This kind of goes back to my point of not liking piggyback units. If someone was doing anything to make more power, you should do it knowing every aspect of how/why it does it. I'd prefer the custom tune vs. something tricking another device, just another point of failure.

I can add a part, and have the car safely tuned based on that. Dealership would still have to prove the tune/part caused anything so why run something that isn't tailored to your car? I refer to the piggyback units as the item for people wanting to hammer on their car, and take it in when it breaks.

Do it right.

Thanks. I understand why you feel that way. I’m not convinced there’s anything wrong with either method.

My plans are street only, no track other than a 1/8 mile within few hundred miles as Pensacola isn’t open to general public.

I don’t plan on beating on it, probably won’t use setting 7 Race as the Conti tires spin quite easily and even chirp into third with 346hp in setting 5 of 7 and extra torque makes first gear almost a waste.. I agree with other folks, 400hp doesn’t assure anything, it can get to be beyond easily useable.

idea of easily returning to stock was for routine service, any recalls/SBs.

 

[RepyT]

Today was warmer and dry, decal day!

This side stripe is on Etsy here if anyone likes it.
HW via Amazon (not that anyone but me would do this)
https://etsy.me/2Huce06

2pcs OEM Camaro Hot Wheels Edition Deck Lid Emblems Badge 3D logo Hotwheels Genuine Black Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCFBG1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0oXuEbFKM4MNS

 

[seselectronics]

New wheel setup!
Stock suspension for now, wheels 18 x9.5 +35 , tires p4s 255/40/18
Need to see first how performs, I don't want to have rubbering issues , if I lowered I will go with swift , looking for a little improvement on the suspension handling for the track.

 

[tinyman392]

This kind of goes back to my point of not liking piggyback units. If someone was doing anything to make more power, you should do it knowing every aspect of how/why it does it. I'd prefer the custom tune vs. something tricking another device, just another point of failure.

I can add a part, and have the car safely tuned based on that. Dealership would still have to prove the tune/part caused anything so why run something that isn't tailored to your car? I refer to the piggyback units as the item for people wanting to hammer on their car, and take it in when it breaks.

Do it right.

A piggyback basically plays the what does the ECU do when fed X input data. Basically, f(X) = y where y is what the ECU does. f(X) is kind of hidden, but in theory can be learned (it's the ECU's logic). Once learned, we can manipulate X to get a desired y output. In this case, you can do stuff that the ECU wouldn't typically do. So if we want the motor to push more boost, we find X values that would have the motor do this and voila. In theory we could also create another set of torque values to hit and find X values to hit these figures.

On the other hand, an ECU tune/jailbreak ends up editing f(X) to get the desired y output. So instead of giving it fake X values, you keep those X values real, but edit the f function to get the motor to do what you want. You end up literally adjusting the torque tables to have the car hit those torque figures. You end up advancing timing by yourself or pushing boost by yourself by editing the ECU logic to do it.

The major advantage to the piggyback is that no flashing is required and your ECU stays stock. In some cases (like JB4) if the system detects anything bad is happening it reverts back to stock as a failsafe (something generally not seen on ECU tunes). Final advantage is that the level of tuning is limited completely by what the ECU would do in any sort of environment. There will be some torque values, boost values, etc. that are not possible to hit because the ECU would never hit them to begin with. The disadvantages are that you're confined to the stock f(X) space, you can't have the motor do stuff that it would never do under any circumstances (but this also theoretically limits the power and torque the motor can output to "safer" levels). It also all depends on how well the manufacturer has mapped out the f(X) = y function; if the manufacturer has a bad model for this, the piggyback will be very sporadic and problematic. Tuning for non-stock parts also becomes more challenging and in some cases impossible (if a part forces the motor to run out of spec for it to work for example).

The major advantage to the ECU tune is that you can go outside the boundaries of stuff the stock ECU wouldn't do. In reality, it also remains more straight forward in what it does since you kind of tell it to do y and decide its logic. Because you control the logic, tuning for non-stock parts is easier and always possible. The major disadvantages is that it requires flashing of the ECU and may or may not have a failsafe if you were to do something stupid. So basically the ECU tune allows you to do something stupid while the piggyback tune allows the manufacturer to do something stupid.

 

[RepyT]

Here’s a cornering light overlay that has a car image. Mine aren’t very bright because they’re applied to smoked lenses, clear w/yellow bulb or amber lenses with strong led might be much better. This is another fine JetsVinyl (Eric’s) product:

https://etsy.me/2UT4qNb

View attachment 201108

 

[RepyT]

A piggyback basically plays the what does the ECU do when fed X input data. Basically, f(X) = y where y is what the ECU does. f(X) is kind of hidden, but in theory can be learned (it's the ECU's logic). Once learned, we can manipulate X to get a desired y output. In this case, you can do stuff that the ECU wouldn't typically do. So if we want the motor to push more boost, we find X values that would have the motor do this and voila. In theory we could also create another set of torque values to hit and find X values to hit these figures.

On the other hand, an ECU tune/jailbreak ends up editing f(X) to get the desired y output. So instead of giving it fake X values, you keep those X values real, but edit the f function to get the motor to do what you want. You end up literally adjusting the torque tables to have the car hit those torque figures. You end up advancing timing by yourself or pushing boost by yourself by editing the ECU logic to do it.

The major advantage to the piggyback is that no flashing is required and your ECU stays stock. In some cases (like JB4) if the system detects anything bad is happening it reverts back to stock as a failsafe (something generally not seen on ECU tunes). Final advantage is that the level of tuning is limited completely by what the ECU would do in any sort of environment. There will be some torque values, boost values, etc. that are not possible to hit because the ECU would never hit them to begin with. The disadvantages are that you're confined to the stock f(X) space, you can't have the motor do stuff that it would never do under any circumstances (but this also theoretically limits the power and torque the motor can output to "safer" levels). It also all depends on how well the manufacturer has mapped out the f(X) = y function; if the manufacturer has a bad model for this, the piggyback will be very sporadic and problematic. Tuning for non-stock parts also becomes more challenging and in some cases impossible (if a part forces the motor to run out of spec for it to work for example).

The major advantage to the ECU tune is that you can go outside the boundaries of stuff the stock ECU wouldn't do. In reality, it also remains more straight forward in what it does since you kind of tell it to do y and decide its logic. Because you control the logic, tuning for non-stock parts is easier and always possible. The major disadvantages is that it requires flashing of the ECU and may or may not have a failsafe if you were to do something stupid. So basically the ECU tune allows you to do something stupid while the piggyback tune allows the manufacturer to do something stupid.

Outstanding tinyman392!
Bookmarked, applauding

 

[frtorres87]

Mr ‘87,
Are yours from Brad at Aero Spec Racing?

I have set from there on order to match a hood scoop they’re building too.

yes they are aero spec. took forever to get the, but worth it.

 

[Pierito]

Today was warmer and dry, decal day!

This side stripe is on Etsy here if anyone likes it.
HW via Amazon (not that anyone but me would do this)
https://etsy.me/2Huce06

2pcs OEM Camaro Hot Wheels Edition Deck Lid Emblems Badge 3D logo Hotwheels Genuine Black Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCFBG1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0oXuEbFKM4MNS

Nobody finds this odd?

 

[RS27]

^his Ridgeline has a Type R badge, so no.

 

[RepyT]

Nobody finds this odd?

I do, that’s why I did it, normal is boring.

Like the Euro Sport R, greyed out, floppy wing, black seats, I nearly dozed off reading the intro. You can’t order a hood bra for it but vests and a cane will be stocked by British dealers. If you want low key, there’s an Si, LOL.

 

[ExVTEC]

Ordered PRL intercooler
10% off and free shipping from MAPerformance!

 

[tinyman392]

Ordered PRL intercooler
10% off and free shipping from MAPerformance!

I’m thinking of doing this right now. 0% financing through Affirm also sounds enticing too.

 

[TypeSiR]

Whoever sheds its weight with me shall be my .... Erhh... wrong forum.

Probably lost 40 lbs and car felt like gaining 20 - 30 hp (butt dyno FTW) in straight line. Deleted/replaced: stock battery, inflator kit & foam, tow hooks & gas spout, floor mats, owner's manual (!!!). Kept the trunk floor board as this is for around town only. Will probably put some of the stuff back on long trips.

Installed 5 lb LiFePo4 battery and kept existing battery tie down and shield. Had to use multiple foam pads (included) to raise the lightweight battery to allow the factory tie down securely hold it down. Need to drive it at least once a week to maintain charge.

Weight-wise, not sure what else can be done without spending $1K and up and retain practicality. Girodisc, forged wheels, CF hood, Ti exhaust -- to name a few but unlikely in my future. Not removing rear wiper for sure.