Blew my engine on a 4krpm 2 step cold start.....

[Hollywoo0220]

Seems that since he is from Colorado and has claimed to be @6,000ft elevation and running a Base Map 21psi w/ a catless downpipe - possibles could be:
The tune was adjusted in the enables.
AFR fluttering (rich to lean back and forth).
Oil pressure
Valve failure

* Definitely something wrong in the fuel trims.
** Being at 6,000ft would roughly require the turbo to spin approx 12-14% faster to achieve the same boost (thinner air). Couple that with a Catless DP and colder air (with an already bouncing AFR). The stock WG's are electronically controlled yes, but if something in the enables was adjusted to reach a specific target - then you would have a somewhat long charge, then WHAM surge of PSI.

Damage was more likely happening over time from surging. That's definitely a rod through the oil pan from how the OP describes the situation. Oil pans do not combust or explode on their own.

Recommendation:
Just get it fixed/replaced by Honda. Custom tune catless DP applications.
Pain is typically a good learning tool. Learn from this and you will move forward the wiser.
Best regards...

(Previous AFR and photo omitted after PRL clarification of TPS value @0)

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[KTuner]

The image below was captured from an older thread from the OP, asking for help reading a Datalog.
You can see the AFR jumping and at a high ratio.
The OP previously was seeing CELs due to the catless DP. The ECU is still reading this and thus the AFR issues.

View attachment 138593

If you look closer and match the AFR events with the TPS value, it's fuel cut because the TPS is dropped to 0. Even where he's currently at in the log TPS and Fuel ms are 0 (See data list).

OP definitely post any additional information you find out.

 

[dallasjhawk]

Since you're on a KTuner base map (like so many others here), I hope you're able to post details here so we can sort out exactly what happened.

This doesnt appear to have anything to do with the base map and more with how the OP drove and treated the car.

Seems that since he is from Colorado and has claimed to be @6,000ft elevation and running a Base Map 21psi w/ a catless downpipe - possibles could be:
The tune was adjusted in the enables.
AFR fluttering (rich to lean back and forth).
Oil pressure
Valve failure

* Definitely something wrong in the fuel trims.
** Being at 6,000ft would roughly require the turbo to spin approx 12-14% faster to achieve the same boost (thinner air). Couple that with a Catless DP and colder air (with an already bouncing AFR). The stock WG's are electronically controlled yes, but if something in the enables was adjusted to reach a specific target - then you would have a somewhat long charge, then WHAM surge of PSI.

Damage was more likely happening over time from surging. That's definitely a rod through the oil pan from how the OP describes the situation. Oil pans do not combust or explode on their own.

Recommendation:
Just get it fixed/replaced by Honda. Custom tune catless DP applications.
Pain is typically a good learning tool. Learn from this and you will move forward the wiser.
Best regards...

The image below was captured from an older thread from the OP, asking for help reading a Datalog.
You can see the AFR jumping and at a high ratio.
The OP previously was seeing CELs due to the catless DP. The ECU is still reading this and thus the AFR issues.

View attachment 138593

Ktuner basemaps account for elevation and as such don't overspin the turbo like that. I and all those spikes in AFR are him going off throttle and it reading 29.4. you cant really tell much from that screenshot. He had an injen intake, which was know to cause bad fuel trims, and was trying to mess with atmospheric pressure as well since he was in Colorado. too many variables here to understand what happened. We dont know if he had rod knock before this even either. Would love to know what knock control was before this. and lastly, why would you EVER 2 step on a cold start before warming the motor to operating temp.

 

[typemismatch]

This:

Why would you EVER 2 step on a cold start before warming the motor to operating temp.

 

[dallasjhawk]

I started my car when it was 20 degrees & I accidentally reved it, & after that I thought well why not try to speed up the warming up & I hit the 2 step for a couple seconds. I know it was stupid. I blew up my engine. Anyways the point of this thread is to see what you guys would recommend for a swap...... it’s going to cost 7k to repair it with oem parts... if I’m going to loose money might as well get something better right ? Idk let me know what you guys think. Also I know getting one from the junk yard is my best bet, any other input would be appreciated. Thanks.

Did you have anti lag enabled too? If you need a new motor source an SI motor if you can, better internals than the base 1.5

 

[latole]

Sounds like the damage was done way before you did your 2 step

Improper driving of the car on a regular basis

 

[NoKz]

Should be able to source the Si motor and ECU for less than $7K. That would be your best bet.

 

[jakdotdot]

Should be able to source the Si motor and ECU for less than $7K. That would be your best bet.

Why should he switch to the SI's ECU? I'd imagine it would be simpler to run his current ECU with a different, SI motor/turbo type tune.

 

[NoKz]

Why should he switch to the SI's ECU? I'd imagine it would be simpler to run his current ECU with a different, SI motor/turbo type tune.

I mean, he may be able to. I'm not sure on everything that's required for the swap.

 

[bgutierrezx]

I was on the “on the fly map” with everything to the “max” I guess you can say. Over all I think it was my negligence, & hitting 2 step over time just for the cool sound & for no reason. This one is on me, I will be replacing the Motor with a used one.

 

[bgutierrezx]

@KTuner ill mock my tune agian & take pics. It was nothing special. It was honestly just me making my car sound like a machine gun over & over time.

 

[bgutierrezx]

Improper driving of the car on a regular basis

That’s what they’re for ha

 

[dallasjhawk]

I was on the “on the fly map” with everything to the “max” I guess you can say. Over all I think it was my negligence, & hitting 2 step over time just for the cool sound & for no reason. This one is on me, I will be replacing the Motor with a used one.

@KTuner ill mock my tune agian & take pics. It was nothing special. It was honestly just me making my car sound like a machine gun over & over time.

Folks, this is how you take the blame for your mistakes and not say, "I babied it, I dont know what happened" Then everyone thinks "Oh the base map did it" Good on you sir. Hopefully you find a good deal on motor.

 

[charleswrivers]

@bgutierrezx... I saw you were military and just wanted to remind you that if you're not in a position to cover the expenses out of pocket w/o getting into debt: remember you have avenues to get a no interest loan. Talk to your navy marine corps relief or equivalent for your branch. There's things out there to take care of our young Soldiers, Sailors, Airmen and Marines so they don't get themselves a bunch of debt and pay a lot of interest. They'll cut you a check and pull some cash out of your paycheck until you're squared up.

Sorry if I'm telling you something you already know, but you'll have to excuse a chief from chiefing. Don't forget that the CRVs may be viable as well as each and every one has a L15B7 and they've sold as many CRVs as Civics.

Good luck!

 

[bgutierrezx]

This doesnt appear to have anything to do with the base map and more with how the OP drove and treated the car.



Ktuner basemaps account for elevation and as such don't overspin the turbo like that. I and all those spikes in AFR are him going off throttle and it reading 29.4. you cant really tell much from that screenshot. He had an injen intake, which was know to cause bad fuel trims, and was trying to mess with atmospheric pressure as well since he was in Colorado. too many variables here to understand what happened. We dont know if he had rod knock before this even either. Would love to know what knock control was before this. and lastly, why would you EVER 2 step on a cold start before warming the motor to operating temp.

Yeah, I wasn’t trying to bash on K tunner. Totally all my fault.

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