Anyone Running the aFe Catted Downpipe

[NicKoLi]

I am considering getting this and honestly, I can't find very much online. The main reason I'm after this is I live in CT and I have to do emissions every two years and this seems like one of the only ones that doesn't throw codes. Does anyone have experience or advice with this? Also is it just the downpipe for like the 800$ they are looking for? I was also considering the Catted RV6 but I'm scared with all the talk about codes. I have a friend that is totally capable and helping me do this install. Or I can have a well-known tune shop do it for $300 More. I am cheap ... any thoughts there would be cool also. I want it to sound like it has an exhaust, make good power and pass an emissions test.

Sponsored

 

[vieux georges]

I've been riding the AFE Takeda catted downpipe
since November 2017.
It's expensive, but you get your money's worth.
I like the sound and the performance.
I 've been no problems.

 

[hobby-man]

Does your state do emissions testing by just scanning the engine or using an exhaust sniffer? If they use a sniffer you'll probably still fail, codes or not. Also if you're tuned, or will be tuned, you can just disable the codes from even showing up.

 

[NicKoLi]

I think they just hook the computer up but I'm told that even if my codes are hidden they will find it and I will fail. This is from a friend with the type-r that's been in the tuning scene for a very long time. I can not get codes period. they're not due for another year and you only have to do them every two years but I just don't even want to have to worry about it.

 

[NicKoLi]

bump. I really want a downpipe just trying to figure out what to do here. I was told I can not be throwing any codes. Also is the aFe just the donwpipe for around $800 and not the front pipe as well because thats what it seems like.

 

[hobby-man]

bump. I really want a downpipe just trying to figure out what to do here. I was told I can not be throwing any codes. Also is the aFe just the donwpipe for around $800 and not the front pipe as well because thats what it seems like.

That's a crazy price just for a downpipe IMO. If you want 100% piece of mind, don't get a DP, catted or otherwise. Eventually they're gonna throw a code.

 

[NicKoLi]

That's a crazy price just for a downpipe IMO. If you want 100% piece of mind, don't get a DP, catted or otherwise. Eventually they're gonna throw a code.

Thats what Im scared of. I want the down pipe though lol. If my only option is an 800$ afe to not throw codes that I guess thats what I have to do. I am looking for input though I know other guys catted have never thrown a code. Just looking for advice

 

[10GenPearlSi]

If you’re getting a downpipe, assuming you’re also tuned. The tuner disables the downpipe code and as long as your inspection doesn’t do a sniffer test and you’re not in CA, that code will not register on the scanner inspection. People run catted and catless pipes all the time. Also, check for ones with a defouler or pick one up separately for a couple bucks.

I was told from an inspector here in Texas that they check for readiness flags. She told me that Ktuner disables the the O2 system software so it doesn't come up ready. No Cell but also no readiness flag. She said it would fail inspection. She extended her O2 cable to screw the O2 sensor directly into her catted PRL dp in hopes of getting it to pass.

 

[NicKoLi]

I was told from an inspector here in Texas that they check for readiness flags. She told me that Ktuner disables the the O2 system software so it doesn't come up ready. No Cell but also no readiness flag. She said it would fail inspection. She extended her O2 cable to screw the O2 sensor directly into her catted PRL dp in hopes of getting it to pass.

thats what my buddy told me, that it would show up not ready and that still fails

 

[hobby-man]

thats what my buddy told me, that it would show up not ready and that still fails

Sounds like your options are:

1. Don't do a DP
2. Get the aFe and hope it doesn't throw a code (no guarantee)
3. Get any DP, catted or otherwise, and learn how to swap it every 2 years for testing

 

[NicKoLi]

Sounds like your options are:

1. Don't do a DP
2. Get the aFe and hope it doesn't throw a code (no guarantee)
3. Get any DP, catted or otherwise, and learn how to swap it every 2 years for testing

thats what im thinking .. other than banking on some of these dont even through codes catless .. might as well get afe catless with defoulers

 

[hobby-man]

thats what im thinking .. other than banking on some of these dont even through codes catless .. might as well get afe catless with defoulers

Just to add my experience, I have a 27WON catted DP. Comes with an O2 spacer. I only get a code in the winter (P0139, slow o2 sensor response) that normally clears after some driving and always went away in warmer temperatures.

 

[NicKoLi]

Im almost thinking catless now because of the same chances of a code more or less and the price difference. Like RV6 or PRL even though they are both like way out of stock right now

 

[merakiautoworks]

Catted is nice to have though as well for daily driving as you don't get that strong of a gas smell.

Let us know if you do want pricing on that catted AFE one.

-Josh

 

[SixSpeeder]

I am considering getting this and honestly, I can't find very much online. The main reason I'm after this is I live in CT and I have to do emissions every two years and this seems like one of the only ones that doesn't throw codes. Does anyone have experience or advice with this? Also is it just the downpipe for like the 800$ they are looking for? I was also considering the Catted RV6 but I'm scared with all the talk about codes. I have a friend that is totally capable and helping me do this install. Or I can have a well-known tune shop do it for $300 More. I am cheap ... any thoughts there would be cool also. I want it to sound like it has an exhaust, make good power and pass an emissions test.

I had an AFE catted DP on my 2020 Civic Si. While it didn't throw any codes, I don't think that you should run it without a tuner/way to monitor your engine. My turbo was hitting higher than normal PSI readings with just the DP and no tune, it was peaking at 19 PSI sometimes which was higher than I had ever seen in my climate/elevation, I was consistently hitting 14-15 PSI at WOT before that with no mods. I didn't throw any codes but I only ran it a few days/~300 miles before getting tuned. As far as an increased/better exhaust note, it was pretty disappointing paired with the stock exhaust. I was expecting more based on the videos that I saw but it's really a minor difference in sound that's mostly noticeable below 3000 rpm. Pops and burbles were a little louder/had a different tone but it really was not a night and day difference, those same sounds are there with the stock DP but are deeper and a little more understated. The videos you find posted online of the AFE catted DP make it sound more aggressive than it does in person the same way that there are videos of the stock exhaust that make it sound way more wicked than it does in person.

Dat rough uneven edge/lip in the stock DP

I would recommend the RV6 though because it retains the heat shield. I tried to cancel my order of the AFE DP and they flat out ignored me and shipped it out days later anyways with not so much as a reply:

https://www.civicx.com/forum/threads/afe-has-crappy-customer-service.51974/

If you buy one, I'd recommend getting it through a vendor who actually cares about its customers enough to respond to them. I ended up installing it anyways because it looked like a quality piece and I wasn't going to let my saltyness get in the way of me having a little fun (even though I know I could sell it for more unused, my curiosity got the better of me and I'm not concerned about the cost, mods are a waste of money regardless). I just ate the cost knowing that AFE lost a customer for life who's been buying stuff from them consistently since around 2006.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask and I'll try to answer them.