And....... another Cup 2 bites the dust after 1 weekend

[djhartm]

No matter what pressures I run, despite the added negative camber from removing the guide pins, despite warming the tires up with easy out laps & trying to avoid excessive understeer & curbs, this car simply destroys front tires on the OEM rims.

It's simply not sustainable if you track regularly or instruct like I do.

It is crazy that you cannot get a weekend out of a set of front tires driven at advanced\instructor pace. This is not a 500+ WHP or 4000+ lb car.

Maybe it has something to do with the CTR's double-axis front suspension. No torque steer, but murder on tires?

I was hoping the Cup 2's would fare better than the OEM Contis, and while they offer better handling & grip, they still get destroyed at a shockingly fast rate.

My C7 Z06 Z07 can go 5-6 weekends on Cup 2's if I'm nice to them on the OEM 19"/20" rims.

It's quite clear that if I keep tracking the CTR, I have to invest in wider 18" rims as others have already said because I can't afford a trailer full of 20" tires each season.

I suppose I could blame it on Randy who was sliding the car pretty hard...

I've got 3 weekends of back-to-back instruction coming up; I'm going to try going up on rear pressure to help the car rotate (Randy's suggestion), maybe test in +3 PSI increments. I guess I will try rotating the fronts at the end of each day as well. Maybe it will help.

And start shopping for 18" track wheels.

Any suggestions (vendors\size) and what tires are working best in the 18" size?

I have Forgelines GA1R 18" staggered now on my Z06 running Pirelli DH scrubs. They are great, but not inexpensive. I do not know if they make that wheel for the CTR.

Thanks.

Sponsored

 

[REC13]

As far as size goes I would try P265/35R18 in any of the 200tw flavors of your choice. Bridgestone RE71 will offer loads of grip and less life, Hankook Ventus RS4 will offer slightly less grip, but outlast the Bridgestone by two times.

 

[djhartm]

As far as size goes I would try P265/35R18 in any of the 200tw flavors of your choice. Bridgestone RE71 will offer loads of grip and less life, Hankook Ventus RS4 will offer slightly less grip, but outlast the Bridgestone by two times.

Thanks!

I contacted my Forgeline seller and he quoted be $5400 for the GA1R's for the CTR. More than I paid for a set on my Z06!

 

[ayau]

@djhartm, any reason why you kept the 20'' for this long especially if you were planning to track the car from the beginning?

Just from a cost perspective, 18s make more sense unless I'm not seeing the benefits of the 20s.

 

[ayau]

Thanks!

I contacted my Forgeline seller and he quoted be $5400 for the GA1R's for the CTR. More than I paid for a set on my Z06!

Any reason why you want expensive forged wheels to beat around the track?

Why not buy 6 OZ wheels so you have 2 extras in case you bend them? They're 18x9 +40 at 20lbs. Even RPF1s are cheaper. You could buy 8 wheels and have 2 different sets of tires and still come out ahead in price comapared to the Forgelines lol.

https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=W0183220053B&wheelMake=O.Z.&wheelModel=Alleggerita HLT&wheelFinish=Black Painted&showRear=no&autoMake=Honda&autoModel=Civic+Type+R&autoYear=2020&autoModClar=

I personally just bought a set of OZ 18x8.5 +55 because I wanted to reduce the torque steer.

 

[djhartm]

@djhartm, any reason why you kept the 20'' for this long especially if you were planning to track the car from the beginning?

Just from a cost perspective, 18s make more sense unless I'm not seeing the benefits of the 20s.

Stubbornness? Stupidity? Insanity?

I guess I kept hoping the Cup 2's would work better\eliminate the issue.

They didn't.

Plus I was supposed to get my Z06 back much sooner from my 10/18 T6 tirewall hit. Now they found debris in the AC system and have to replace the entire sytsem. The Z06 is my primary track car, so I was trying to keep costs down on the CTR. That's not working out too well with the OEM wheels.

The Forgelines are awesome, and I am pretty aggressive on curbing (not nearly as much as Pobst to my surprise), but I can't justify >$5k on a car that cost $37k.

Thank you for the suggestions on wheels. Any reason you went with the different offset - I see 39/40 as the most common, but do not know enough about the effects.

I was looking at 18 x 9.5" with a 40 offset.

 

[spyder57]

Any reason why you want expensive forged wheels to beat around the track?

Why not buy 6 OZ wheels so you have 2 extras in case you bend them? They're 18x9 +40 at 20lbs. Even RPF1s are cheaper. You could buy 8 wheels and have 2 different sets of tires and still come out ahead in price comapared to the Forgelines lol.

https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=W0183220053B&wheelMake=O.Z.&wheelModel=Alleggerita HLT&wheelFinish=Black Painted&showRear=no&autoMake=Honda&autoModel=Civic+Type+R&autoYear=2020&autoModClar=

I personally just bought a set of OZ 18x8.5 +55 because I wanted to reduce the torque steer.

Which OZs did you get with +55 offset?

 

[ayau]

Which OZs did you get with +55 offset?

OZ Challenge HLT. I think they're a special order from Tire Rack. I picked them up from a member here.

 

[ayau]

Stubbornness? Stupidity? Insanity?

The Forgelines are awesome, and I am pretty aggressive on curbing (not nearly as much as Pobst to my surprise), but I can't justify >$5k on a car that cost $37k.

Thank you for the suggestions on wheels. Any reason you went with the different offset - I see 39/40 as the most common, but do not know enough about the effects.

I was looking at 18 x 9.5" with a 40 offset.

I consider track wheels as consumables just like tires, so get the cheapest but meets your requirements. What's the point of tracking a nice set of forged wheels when it's 800-1k to replace and there's a 2 month lead time? Better to just have an extra set of Enkeis or whatever unless you can justify 2 sets of expensive forged wheels.

I picked the +55 because it's the closest aftermarket wheel to the OEM +60 offset. I don't care for flushness etc. Just wanted 18, light, minimal torque steer, and wouldn't put a big dent in my wallet (bonus point if it doesn't bother me if I end up curbing them).

 

[djhartm]

I consider track wheels as consumables just like tires, so get the cheapest but meets your requirements. What's the point of tracking a nice set of forged wheels when it's 800-1k to replace and there's a 2 month lead time? Better to just have an extra set of Enkeis or whatever unless you can justify 2 sets of expensive forged wheels.

I picked the +55 because it's the closest aftermarket wheel to the OEM +60 offset. I don't care for flushness etc. Just wanted 18, light, minimal torque steer, and wouldn't put a big dent in my wallet (bonus point if it doesn't bother me if I end up curbing them).

I can definitely see your POV.

Why 8.5 vs 9.5? This car needs more front-end grip & rotation. I was looking at the 265/35-18 to be the solution to the first issue.

 

[ayau]

I can definitely see your POV.

Why 8.5 vs 9.5? This car needs more front-end grip & rotation. I was looking at the 265/35-18 to be the solution to the first issue.

Just simply because 8.5 was the only width offered.

With respect to your understeering issue, have you considered a set of aftermarket coilovers (Moton, JRZ)? Not if you want to go down that rabbit hole as they're easily $5k a set. Not worth it unless you're a big track rat.

I know Steven ran reverse staggered and a set of JRZ.

 

[djhartm]

Ah Buttonwillow. I've raced there numerous times.

Not a fan of the bypass config in the video though.

 

[billabongrob]

I’d check out Konig ampliform for a cheap strong track wheel. If you want to spend a little more and use something many of my non-ctr cars had, check out forgestar. They can pretty much build you a wheel to your specs at a sliver of what most of the flashy wheels I see in the forums cost. I ran their 18x10 variant on my mustangs and loved them. Once the 2021 car budget is replenished I may buy a set myself for track use. I bought flashy TE-37 to daily, but would prefer something that I care less about chips nicks and other general imperfections from off-track excursions.

 

[ApexEight]

Your best option is to add more negative camber and get 18s. I'd go with the Hardrace front lower ball joint camber adjusters. In position B, combined with the camber from the guide pins you've already removed, you'll get close to -3 degrees. Motegi Mr145 18x9.5 +45 are stupid cheap and I'd look at resilient 200TW tires for track work like the RS4 or RT615K+.

 

[ayau]

Your best option is to add more negative camber and get 18s. I'd go with the Hardrace front lower ball joint camber adjusters. In position B, combined with the camber from the guide pins you've already removed, you'll get close to -3 degrees. Motegi Mr145 18x9.5 +45 are stupid cheap and I'd look at resilient 200TW tires for track work like the RS4 or RT615K+.

Hardrace or hardly race? lol

I'll also throw out HPD camber plates as another option.

Sponsored