27Won Front Mount Intercooler Review with Datalogs

[Tev42]

Since we have visual inspections, let's hope you can slip by with no issues!

Hopefully CA gives you a warm welcome and you enjoy it here. Our car scenes in certain cities can be whack but there are plenty of other groups and small clubs that are tight-knit and legit.

car communities everywhere have some whack members, I’ve gotten used to it lol. I’m moving to San Diego so I hope I can find some of the cool people.

I should also say thanks for your extensive review on the intercooler, it helped me a few months ago when deciding between PRL and 27won. PRL seems to be the staple for the FK8 but I liked 27won’s blogs and I also dig the look (until the SMOG tech fails me)

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[FC1Dawn]

car communities everywhere have some whack members, I’ve gotten used to it lol. I’m moving to San Diego so I hope I can find some of the cool people.

I should also say thanks for your extensive review on the intercooler, it helped me a few months ago when deciding between PRL and 27won. PRL seems to be the staple for the FK8 but I liked 27won’s blogs and I also dig the look (until the SMOG tech fails me)

San Diego has got great members. SDXGenz is a good community, check them out on IG. They had meets every weekend and the people were awesome. Very welcoming and extremely knowledgeable on multiple aspects of 10th gen's. Not sure how the meets are going now due to COVID but perhaps when things settle down, things go back in order.

If you like canyon carving and technical driving, there is Palomar Mountain which is an amazing road to drive on. Curves, hairpins and windy roads. Highly recommended, just take it easy the first couple of times going up and down.

I know people who frequent these and other similar roads. My buddies and I sometimes head there as well. If ya wanted, you could even do the autocross events we have.

Perhaps I'll see you around town as I am also in San Diego

Thanks for the kind words. Good luck on the R and the move!

 

[Tev42]

San Diego has got great members. SDXGenz is a good community, check them out on IG. They had meets every weekend and the people were awesome. Very welcoming and extremely knowledgeable on multiple aspects of 10th gen's. Not sure how the meets are going now due to COVID but perhaps when things settle down, things go back in order.

If you like canyon carving and technical driving, there is Palomar Mountain which is an amazing road to drive on. Curves, hairpins and windy roads. Highly recommended, just take it easy the first couple of times going up and down.

I know people who frequent these and other similar roads. My buddies and I sometimes head there as well. If ya wanted, you could even do the autocross events we have.

Perhaps I'll see you around town as I am also in San Diego

Thanks for the kind words. Good luck on the R and the move!

Glad to hear that. I have been to a track In VA a few times, lookin forward to finding the good spots out there.

 

[FC1Dawn]

Update: Whistling noise came back about 2 months ago. Similar thing, only whistles under hard boost. Daily cruising did not yield this problem.

Checked my T-clamps yesterday and found that the clamp on the pipe immediately post-turbo, the charge pipe to throttle body pipe clamp, and the throttle body clamp were not secured. Had to give them 10+ cranks of the 10mm before beginning to feel resistance.

Whistling noise has dropped substantially and I can barely hear it now. Pretty sure I had a loose connection from the start. Gives me hope that the whistling noise is getting quieter after wrenching these clamps tight tight.

I'm going to get some threadlocker and make sure these nuts don't vibrate back out. Hopefully, this will solve the problem one last time and rid of the whistling noise entirely.

 

[Fit2Hatch]

Update: Whistling noise came back about 2 months ago. Similar thing, only whistles under hard boost. Daily cruising did not yield this problem.

Checked my T-clamps yesterday and found that the clamp on the pipe immediately post-turbo, the charge pipe to throttle body pipe clamp, and the throttle body clamp were not secured. Had to give them 10+ cranks of the 10mm before beginning to feel resistance.

Whistling noise has dropped substantially and I can barely hear it now. Pretty sure I had a loose connection from the start. Gives me hope that the whistling noise is getting quieter after wrenching these clamps tight tight.

I'm going to get some threadlocker and make sure these nuts don't vibrate back out. Hopefully, this will solve the problem one last time and rid of the whistling noise entirely.

Those supplied T-clamp's band is too wide on a few OEM joint and clamp overlap the raised ridge and give false indication of being tight.

On a correct width band clamp, once tighten, raised ridge should provide a distinct bulge on the hose and locate behind the band clamp, while the opposite end should have silicone hose visible beyond the band clamp.

I switched to marine grade stainless ABA hose clamp when I install the same FMIC, ABA is compact, as well as narrower and designed not to damage rubber/silicone hose. It's been installed over a year and trouble free.

 

[FC1Dawn]

Those supplied T-clamp's band is too wide on a few OEM joint and clamp overlap the raised ridge and give false indication of being tight.

On a correct width band clamp, once tighten, raised ridge should provide a distinct bulge on the hose and locate behind the band clamp, while the opposite end should have silicone hose visible beyond the band clamp.

I switched to marine grade stainless ABA hose clamp when I install the same FMIC, ABA is compact, as well as narrower and designed not to damage rubber/silicone hose. It's been installed over a year and trouble free.

Thanks for the insight on this. Might need to swing different T-clamps or switch to hose clamps if that's the case.

 

[arpypat]

Those supplied T-clamp's band is too wide on a few OEM joint and clamp overlap the raised ridge and give false indication of being tight.

On a correct width band clamp, once tighten, raised ridge should provide a distinct bulge on the hose and locate behind the band clamp, while the opposite end should have silicone hose visible beyond the band clamp.

I switched to marine grade stainless ABA hose clamp when I install the same FMIC, ABA is compact, as well as narrower and designed not to damage rubber/silicone hose. It's been installed over a year and trouble free.

Could you give a link to the hose clamps you got?

I have the mishimoto FMIC w/ piping kit for a couple weeks now and the supplied hose clamps are also a$$. Just today, my piping popped off at the throttle body during a highway on ramp pull... I heard a thunk and thought I broke my tranny, but luckily it was just the IC piping.

 

[Fit2Hatch]

Could you give a link to the hose clamps you got?

I have the mishimoto FMIC w/ piping kit for a couple weeks now and the supplied hose clamps are also a$$. Just today, my piping popped off at the throttle body during a highway on ramp pull... I heard a thunk and thought I broke my tranny, but luckily it was just the IC piping.

Yikes! OEM throttle body has a very short outlet and narrower band clamp such as ABA is ideal.

I went through my local Honolulu West Marine. If I buy direct, very expensive, but they advertise they will match price! So I found San Diego Marine had the best posted price, went in local West Marine and they verified on web and price I paid was better than expected.

Also, PRL silicone coolant hose kit supplied worm drive clamps are also subpar, so I replaced with ABA when I change out to Koyorad.

T-clamp is nice and very expensive, beside being bulky, heavy and overkill, worst of all, doesn't work so good for this application. There are a few T-clamp on my 27Won CAI and TIP sticking out, looked out of place and I need to change out but larger ABA size has been out of stock for a while.

I suppose you have to do your diligence to find the best price and GL!

 

[FC1Dawn]

Update: Checked charge pipes again, the T-Clamp nut post turbo already backed out and was loose. Took 8 cranks before feeling resistance. Got Vibra-Tite 125 Gel ThreadLocker, applied it to the screw portion of where the nut would rest when tightened. Applied to T-Clamp pipe post turbo and the T-Clamp where the metal charge pipe to throttle body silicone pipe meet. Will be applying to the rest of the connections soon, as these two connections had the most problems.

I actually like this Vibra-Tite Gel stuff, it's almost like a toothpaste consistency so there wasn't any spillage or drips.

Will update again.

 

[FC1Dawn]

Update: I have FINALLY solved the whistling issue!

The T-Bolt clamp that connects the lower hot side pipe to the lower hot side silicone (hot pipe post-turbo to silicone coupler immediate pre-intercooler) was off centered. Clamp was seemingly tightened on the edge of the pipe, so there was some sort of pinching going on, which resulted in the whistling noise.

Check your connections folks, check ALL of them and make sure the clamp is CENTERED AND SECURED on the pipe.

That said, Vibra-Tite 125 Gel Threadlocker works amazingly well, none of my T-clamps bolts have backed off and everything is snug.

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