Drop Pro’s & Cons

xRiCeBoYx

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what @tinyman392 said! ^^

i found the calculator helpful when deciding on tires/rims sizes (i wont be dropping since roads are too bad as is) but i also didn't want wheel gap. like most everyone mentioned the springs are more for aesthetics. so i went with 19's with thicker tires and im quite happy with my set up. wheels are almost flush and very minimal wheel gap

https://tiresize.com/calculator/
I used to use that calculator, among many, then I found https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/

it's a bit more in-depth and gives a visual representation of the differences. Requires a bit of work and measurements on your part if you want accurate measurements of the more in-depth things (clearances, scrub radius, etc), but still quite useful to compare the sizes in terms relative to before and after
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RBrackett

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I used to use that calculator, among many, then I found https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/

it's a bit more in-depth and gives a visual representation of the differences. Requires a bit of work and measurements on your part if you want accurate measurements of the more in-depth things (clearances, scrub radius, etc), but still quite useful to compare the sizes in terms relative to before and after
Dayum! i wish i knew about that one when i was looking! so much better!
 

VinRRR

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Your car looks great and I wanted to purchase your wheels but was didn’t want the 18 inch wheel to leave that fender gap.
I bought springs and now I am still figuring out wheels!
Maybe next summer
With lower springs, you won't have that fender gap with the 18" if you go with 35 or 40 profile tires. 18" wheels have proving to be the most common aftermarket wheel size for this car because of cheaper and more options for tires. 19" wheels will cost you about 500-1000 more to get the same set up. Take your time and get something you want.
 

xRiCeBoYx

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Dayum! i wish i knew about that one when i was looking! so much better!
Dude, same for when I had my 2002. I was using the miata.net tire calculator, and now I'm pushing that other site on everyone bc it has so much more information
 

RBrackett

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Dude, same for when I had my 2002. I was using the miata.net tire calculator, and now I'm pushing that other site on everyone bc it has so much more information
i agree! maybe a dedicated post or sticky on the forum would be good!
 


wstaab

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SPOON progressive springs installed. This modification was installed not for appearance but to enhance handling due to upgrade from linear to progressive spring rates. Front was lowered by 16mm, rear by 19mm measured at the frame, not the fenders. Tires are 265/30/19 Michelin. The SPOON springs increased negative Camber by -1 degree front and rear. Front toe was 1/16 inch out from 0 toe. Rear toe was 1/4 inch out from 2mm in. So a four wheel alignment is required after lower the car with springs. Front toe was set to 0, rear toe was set to 2mm in. This is a performance street alignment. For track setting 2mm toe out in front to help turn in and 0 toe in rear to help the rear rotate better. You will also need to zero the steering wheel angle sensor after alignment. Also the static ride height needs to be reset as the lower control arm sensors have changed their static position. You will need software that can access these features to reset them. Many independent shops can help with this or you local Honda dealer.
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Pierito

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Unless you're tracking the car often, it's low enough IMO. Leave it and enjoy the usability of the stock ride height.

Edit: This coming from someone who drives in the same environment as you.
 

tinyman392

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Unless you're tracking the car often, it's low enough IMO. Leave it and enjoy the usability of the stock ride height.

Edit: This coming from someone who drives in the same environment as you.
If you're tracking the car, you probably wouldn't want it to just be lowered. You'd want something more adjustable (not just height). I think others have mentioned that just simply lowering the car could have adverse affects when it comes to actual grip/traction while cornering.
 

Pierito

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If you're tracking the car, you probably wouldn't want it to just be lowered. You'd want something more adjustable (not just height). I think others have mentioned that just simply lowering the car could have adverse affects when it comes to actual grip/traction while cornering.
Yes, agreed. Lowering springs alone would not be ideal. You'd want a good set of coilovers, camber kit, and most likely some type of chassis bracing.
 
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civicsi1211

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This thread has gave a lot of great input.
Looks like I’ll sell my springs and begin looking for some 18’s with a thicker tire.
I do love lowered cars but I really wouldn’t want to change my handling on this car.
Thanks for the input.
 


BuLL

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Can we see some 40 sidewall guys w/ no drop out there?

I’m going back and forth on this one... I don’t even have the car in my possession yet... but I do have 18” Rays on standby to swap out with the stock wheels/tires.

I was originally going to try and run a 40 sidewall tire to better fill the gap AND avoid the install & alignment costs... but now I’m leaning strong to a drop around 0.8 or so...

Still deciding between too many options and it’s frustrating as hell. I don’t even mind dropping the $500 or so on Spoon.... but I don’t exactly hear people raving? I wish there was a consensus choice...
 

ayau

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Can we see some 40 sidewall guys w/ no drop out there?

I’m going back and forth on this one... I don’t even have the car in my possession yet... but I do have 18” Rays on standby to swap out with the stock wheels/tires.

I was originally going to try and run a 40 sidewall tire to better fill the gap AND avoid the install & alignment costs... but now I’m leaning strong to a drop around 0.8 or so...

Still deciding between too many options and it’s frustrating as hell. I don’t even mind dropping the $500 or so on Spoon.... but I don’t exactly hear people raving? I wish there was a consensus choice...
245/40/18 on factory suspension. Not bigger than OEM diameter so it’s going to have the same amount of wheel gap.

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BuLL

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255/40/18 stock height. But spoon springs on its way

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looks amazing guys. Now I have to decide if I want to drop or not.... ugh. Wouldn’t mind saving the $$ for other parts... especially since I’d have to find someone to install and pay for that and alignment.... hm...
 

AdamD19DFK8

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If you get springs with a rear spring biased stiffness it should help with handling and rotation. I haven't pulled the trigger on springs yet, I'm saving for more important things. When I do get springs I'll get h&r with an adjustable rear sway bar to dial in how much rotation I want. My 2020 has better mid corner grip and handling than my 19 did. You don't get that floaty rear feeling where you need subtle wheel adjustments to keep it rotating through. Most good springs are developed using the stock dampers so loss of handling I'm not worried about. The dampers may wear out faster using a shorter range of travel, but the springs being stiffer should help.

I mainly want them to get rid of the wheel Gap and to b aid in high speed runs where being lower reduces drag. Just not looking forward to the alignment part
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