DIY: retrofit Hondalink to LX/Sport

[fgr]

Hi everyone – I've successfully retrofitted a Hondalink (ex and above radio) into my LX. It completely changes the driving experience, and it has been working great for the past 2 months or so. IF you are looking for an OEM retrofit, upgraded audio quality, and NO modifications to original wiring, this is for you. Having the Hondalink also allows you to customize the convenience features on the car (locks, lights etc) All in all, I believe I've spent a little over $200 in parts and a further $200 in tools and cables/accessories etc.

Following is a brief explanation of what you will need, I think this is best described as a 2 stage process: (i) Bluetooth, Android Auto & Apple Carplay, (ii) Adding AM & FM. Potentially, you can add-on LaneWatch, XM radio, Amp, digital cluster at a reasonable cost.

Worth noting there are variants and sub-models, ie. some equipment have native XM and HD radio, some have Nav,etc . I went for the barebones one, which is what you will see in the pictures below (no XM/HD no Nav/no Amp). I've not yet enabled the rearview camera (there is an extra wire which needs to be connected at the interior Fuse Box (have not yet found in which of the fuse box’s connectors to add).Further, steering wheel controls work perfectly (despite not having up/down function, which is present on the EX+)

As always, any modifications you do to your property is of your own responsibility, this tutorial is for information proposes.

1. Materials:
1.1- Basic Set-up (only native Bluetooth, USB connection, Android Auto and Apple CarPlay):
• 1 - “Tablet” - ~$700 New;~30 to 100 Ebay; part no 39710-TBA-305
• 2- Head UnitBrains - ~1200 New ~150 to 250 Ebay; part nos 39101-TBA-A21 (barebones No HD/XM and no Nav), 39101-TBA-A31 (HD/XM), 39101-TBC-A71 (Fully Loaded)
• 3- GPS Antenna - $15 - part no 39835-TBA-A01 (alternative google Honda GPS antenna)
• 4 (Optional)- Secondary USB - $30 - part no 39114-TBA-305
• 5 - Blue connector-Harness from “tablet to Brain” (often is included when you buy either #1 or #2) - $25 - part no39725-TBA-A01

1.2-Adding AM/FM module Set-up:
• 1 - Tuner - $80 - part no 39800-TBA-A11(AM/FM) or 39800-TBA-A21 (AM/FM/XM radio)
• 2 -Small Male Antenna Connector x2 - $10 - part no Mobilistics adapter for 2016 Civic
• 3 -Single Male Antenna Connector - $10 - part no39835-TBA-A01
• 4 - Double Male Antenna Connector - $10 - part no METRA 40-HD22
• 5 - Motorola-style M-M Connector x2 - $5

1.3-Additional parts, tools, and connectors:
- $10 per day to access the Honda diagrams and specifications https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/logon.aspx

- On ebay, buy connectors and harnesses for Hondas (anything from 2010 onwards are reasonably similar, independent of the model, as the specifications are very similar). This will allow you to customize the connectors and have a solid mechanical OEM Fit. Also, this will serve to re-use OEM-quality cables and terminals.

- On amazon, buy a 635 pcs Dupont Connector, M-M, M-F and F-F Dupont (same as used for Arduino). This kit comes with wiring, solderless male and female terminals and different housings b/w 1 and 10 pins. These are sufficient caliber to conduct the amperage and have a decent grip to the connectors.

2. Bench Procedure:
This portion will be all about creating the additional wiring harness, which basically consists of 3: (i) back of the radio 16 pin connector (aka E connector) (Required) (ii) tablet straight 5 pin connector (Required) (iii) AMFM module straight 10 pin (optional). Below are the diagrams:

2.1 16 pin E connector

2.2 Tablet Connector

2.3 10 Pin AMFM module connector

 

[360glitch]

Nice work. Thanks for sharing.

 

[fgr]

3.1 Removal of the old radio:
- Remove battery terminal or remove the radio fuse (15A on under the hood, see label on the fuse box)
- Recommend you to get a panel removal plastic tool or use a screw driver wrapped in cloth not to damage the trim
- You can search youtube to see videos of dash trim removal procedures too
- Basically, pull the trim pieces that run from the bottom of radio to the end of the shifter, there are no screws, there are a total of 4 clips. Start from the end towards the shifter and unclip it going up. The deal here is to moderate the force, if too gentle it will bent the plastic and too much will break the clips.

- Next, there will be 2 phillips screws on each side of the air conditioning control, which will allow you to pull it forward (remove the 2 connectors on its back, and unclip the harness holder)
- Lastly, there will be 2 sets of Phillips screws pairs on the bottom of the radio’s brackets (you’ll want to re-use these brackets depending on the condition of the ones that came with the new headunit.)

3.2 Installing the wiring:
- Once radio is out, you’ll install the wire taps to the brown and black wires of the 24 pin connector (black being ground and brown the hot):

- If you bought the additional USB harness, route it through the glovebox of center console.
- Route a wire lead from the 15th pin of the 32pin connector (between purple and red, and above pink and tan), to the interior fusebox (under the dash). Ideally, using one connector recycled from the Honda harness, just insert the metal pin into the cavity, until you hear the click. If you want to color-code as OEM, use a little green wire.
- For the GPS antenna, place it further into the dash as much as possible (the less metal obstruction between antenna and the sky, the faster it will acquire signal)
- If you are installing the AMFM tuner, run the harness to the location you feel is the most appropriate (on OEM, it sits behind the fixed boosters of the back seats of the passenger side, and youd need to run the antenna wire all the way there) I have removed the brackets and glued the module to the back of the glove box trim.
- If you’re not installing the AMFM module, run a lead from the back of the radio (16 pin connector) to the tablet, per above

3.3 Re-assembly
- Transfer the radio brackets to the new unit (if needed)
- Plug all the connectors back (id suggest to leave the FM module unplugged on the 1st try, and subsequently, plug it if successful)
- Hook the battery and or fuse back, turn the car on (battery position, as you see fit) and radio should light up. Use https://radio-navicode.honda.com/ with your car’s VIN and radio serial code (write it down before installing)

 

[kotarou]

That's a great DIY

I have some questions:
By using the Hondalink on the LX do you have some features that does not work? Or the HeadUnit (Radio) detects and disable?

Which features were enabled when you installed it?

 

[skshrews]

How is the unit "in practice"? What do you like about it? Is it responsive? Is it a better experience than a cellphone in a dock?

 

[fgr]

That's a great DIY

I have some questions:
By using the Hondalink on the LX do you have some features that does not work? Or the HeadUnit (Radio) detects and disable?

Which features were enabled when you installed it?

That's a great DIY

I have some questions:
By using the Hondalink on the LX do you have some features that does not work? Or the HeadUnit (Radio) detects and disable?

Which features were enabled when you installed it?

Hi - The headunit itself has a detection mode where it does the "discovery" of all the peripherals. For instance, the LX doesnt seem to have a secondary BCAN network, nor does it have the lane watch, dual air conditioning or the digital instrument cluster. The detection mode detects the presence (or lack there of) and disables the respective functions, by omitting them from the interface.

Re the built in functions: USB, bluetooth, wifi, the GPS (using the additional antenna bought separately) all work from day1 with no configuration required. Also, from day1 it allowed me to configure the convenience settings of the car (which otherwise you cant thru the regular LX radio), so from lighting, locks, extra trip computer functions.

I guess, in short, if your question would be whether youd lose anything by doing this swap, or whether there would be an obvious recurrent "greyed out" feature on the radio interface, the short answer is no.

 

[fgr]

How is the unit "in practice"? What do you like about it? Is it responsive? Is it a better experience than a cellphone in a dock?

It is much better than the phone in a dock, in a sense that it is always there committed to do this one function, whereas the phone has all the other elements to it. Plus the positioning and the bigger screen is really helpful for driving.

For instance, I just took a day trip in NC to the Blueridge Pkwy, and we got a heavy fog. Driving with the big map with a precise GPS, right in your line of sight was so much more convenient than looking at your phone strapped to the windshield doing all the other stuff at the same time.

The native OS itself is literally a modded out android version (an older one actually), so the usability is far from good, but I can live with it. Sometimes it is slow, sometimes you click in one place and it takes you to another, so my preference is really using either android auto and apple, which seems to circumvent all the bad points of the native OS, and is quick, responsive and precise.

not trying to promote it, but for the price, fit and quality, it def worth the <$500 I invested. I wouldn't do it for the asking price at the dealer though.

 

[kotarou]

That's great.
So basicattly the audio connector is the same or do you need an adaptor?

 

[compcrasher86]

Did you notice any change in the sound? Wondering if the headunit has any crossover on the door speakers.

Also, if we sprung for the ‘premium’ headunit with all the bells and whistles, do you know if it still has an amp inside to drive our speakers?

 

[F30anderson843]

I was curious if its the same process, upgrading a 2018 HB sport with the Hondalink, and is it possible to get some more info on the adaptor harness you built?

 

[kotarou]

I have some aditional questions.

The FM Tuner unit have 3 connectors:
- Antenna Input (Double)
- Antenna Output (Single)
- 10 Pin Conector

Did ou have to convert the Double connector to the single one? It's not very clear about this process...

 

[fgr]

Did you notice any change in the sound? Wondering if the headunit has any crossover on the door speakers.

Also, if we sprung for the ‘premium’ headunit with all the bells and whistles, do you know if it still has an amp inside to drive our speakers?

Hi, this new radio is marginally better than the stock one I'd say power wise it is 20 watts better from what I've read. At the same time the difference is audible, it is still not great. The tweeters are a simple add on even on the factory spec, and they use a capacitor instead of an actual cross over.

Re the amp, I think the fully speced touring version does not have an in built amp. At the same time it shouldn't be too hard to try to re create the harness given all the harnesses are very clear on Honda techs diagrams. I think the hardest would be to source the connectors and plugs and to wire the power wire, which is sourced from the fuse box on the factory application.

 

[fgr]

I was curious if its the same process, upgrading a 2018 HB sport with the Hondalink, and is it possible to get some more info on the adaptor harness you built?

I looked up the radios on eBay and all years seem to have identical connections. You can double check by downloading the diagrams on Honda tech just to make sure.

For the adaptors, it boils down to 3 connectors and 2 harness:
1. Tablet connector which is 5 pin. This receives a hot and a ground and one signal wire.
2. One 16 pin (2 layers of 8), which communicates to the amfm tuner unit and one of the pins is dedicated to send the signal for the tablet as above
3. One straight 10 pin that goes in the tuner unit itself.

The function and position of each of the pins is as described in the original post.

On top of this, you will need a generic GPA antenna(there are several on eBay), two small antenna adaptors (connects the head unit with a secondary plug on the amfm tuner) and a Acura type antenna adaptor, which will connects the old amfm antenna directly into the amfm tuner.

Let me know which part needs more clarification and I will rewrite and post more pictures.

 

[fgr]

I have some aditional questions.

The FM Tuner unit have 3 connectors:
- Antenna Input (Double)
- Antenna Output (Single)
- 10 Pin Conector

Did ou have to convert the Double connector to the single one? It's not very clear about this process...

The double output is the one that will connect to the factory antenna. In fact Honda is not using one of the pins altogether ( factory antenna has only one pin). For the adaptor for this, you will need a Acura style adaptor ( I listed the exact model on my original post) which will have 2 leads and one of them will be left unused.

The single pin output will go straight into the head unit. And the 10 pin receives power and ground and other signals from the HU 16 pin.

I will try to make a better diagram and repost.

 

[kotarou]

I got an unit and I'm trying to test it on the bench.

Do you know If only with A1 ground and A3 12V I can test it?
Also I have to feed the display as well (E1 and E5)

Do you think this is enough?

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