Si specific clutch options....why is it like buying a mattress?

[charleswrivers]

Yeah... I'd contacted Exedy something like a year ago and they said they were releasing their aftermarket clutch "soon". So... yeah...

…and I agree, the CTR retrofit seems like the only one that has consistent, positive reviews without some other issue that crops up for a large portion of folks that'd really suck to have, though, like @caspar21 mentioned, there are some that can be corrected with some additional work following the initial install. So far as the lighter flywheels were concerned, I was actually a little underwhelmed about how slow revs fell with them TBH... but maybe I'm just too biased towards seeing the effect on bigger, older, less efficient engines. These little engines with their tiny piston surface areas and fancy coatings on the combustion chambers amongst other things probable just don't develop enough drag to naturally slow down that quick anyways... even with a light flywheel. Or maybe my eyes are broken. I just didn't notice a huge difference in the before-and-afters.

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[NeoZeed]

These little engines with their tiny piston surface areas and fancy coatings on the combustion chambers amongst other things probable just don't develop enough drag to naturally slow down that quick anyways... even with a light flywheel. Or maybe my eyes are broken. I just didn't notice a huge difference in the before-and-afters.

Didn’t Honda say this was tuned due to emissions or something similar? People have claimed that k tuner can fix this.

 

[charleswrivers]

Didn’t Honda say this was tuned due to emissions or something similar? People have claimed that k tuner can fix this.

You're talking about rev hang that causes the throttle to shut slower than the pedal input to cause a more complete burn for emissions. Yes... rev hang delete does improve it somewhat... but the engine revs still fall slowly due to the heavy stock flywheel. I just didn't think the lighter aftermarket flywheels made the engine that snappy. It is an improvement... just not as large of a difference as I was expecting from the one comparison I saw.

 

[NeoZeed]

Yes... rev hang delete does improve it somewhat... but the engine revs still fall slowly due to the heavy stock flywheel. I just didn't think the lighter aftermarket flywheels made the engine that snappy. It is an improvement... just not as large of a difference as I was expecting from the one comparison I saw.

Ah, I see. That’s a little disappointing. I don’t notice the rev hang when driving spiritedly as I usually let the clutch drop revs when shifting quickly. It worries me though as I know I’m wearing out a clutch that already barely holds the torque we are putting out stock.

I’d imagine the Type R flywheel would help even less as it’s heavier that the SPEC offerings, right?

 

[charleswrivers]

Ah, I see. That’s a little disappointing. I don’t notice the rev hang when driving spiritedly as I usually let the clutch drop revs when shifting quickly. It worries me though as I know I’m wearing out a clutch that already barely holds the torque we are putting out stock.

I’d imagine the Type R flywheel would help even less as it’s heavier that the SPEC offerings, right?

I don't remember specific numbers... but it is in other threads. The CTR was a bit lighter than ours, like with the steel Spec flywheel. Spec also made a substantially lighter aluminum one. There was a video that showed stock vs aluminum. It's definitely a difference... just not as much as I though there's be.

The heavy flywheel does make for an easy launch... I just end up having revs fall so slow than when I shift quickly, I'm not close to the revs being matched up and it probably is causing more clutch wear and shock on the drivetrain than if the revs had fallen a bit more. Honestly it's probably more nitpicky on my part than anything else.

 

[jakabony]

I went with Eman’s CTR retrofit. Got it installed yesterday. Smooth engagement. Grabs really well. Nearly stock pedal feel. Case closed for me.

 

[caspar21]

I went with Eman’s CTR retrofit. Got it installed yesterday. Smooth engagement. Grabs really well. Nearly stock pedal feel. Case closed for me.

thats great if you like vague stock engagement.
i prefer something that has a bit more feel to it.

 

[jakabony]

thats great if you like vague stock engagement.
i prefer something that has a bit more feel to it.

Don’t misunderstand me. The pedal stiffness is only slightly heavier than stock. The engagement is far from vague. It grabs exactly as a good clutch should. No rev hang or floating feeling between gears.

 

[Noize]

I test drove a new Si with 8 miles on it. Looked and drove well, but the clutch was slipping in 6th on the highway... Brand new. Totally awful. Sort it out, Honda!

 

[Noize]

If you were going WOT or forcing high boost like most who experience slip in 6th on the highway on a clutch with only 8 miles, then that's not surprising. Also, this is why I bought mine fresh with no test drives done on it because of people who test drive like that. RIP that clutch break in.

Not WOT- just mid throttle to merge onto the interstate- from 60 to 70mph. It’s a paltry 192 lb-ft torque engine, and more importantly, stock. The OEM clutch is a total joke not to be able to hold that. I’ve owned and driven many turbocharged cars. This is the saddest factory clutch I’ve ever seen.

 

[NeoZeed]

Not WOT- just mid throttle to merge onto the interstate- from 60 to 70mph. It’s a paltry 192 lb-ft torque engine, and more importantly, stock. The OEM clutch is a total joke not to be able to hold that. I’ve owned and driven many turbocharged cars. This is the saddest factory clutch I’ve ever seen.

Were you in Sport mode by chance? In my experience, the accelerator mapping is pretty aggressive in that mode. Like, what you think may "feel" like half way is probably like 90% open. I don't know why anyone would try to accelerate from 60-70 in 6th in these cars when even 5th feels like an overdrive and is so tall. 6th is exclusively used to cruize above 70mph, I downshift to 4th any time I need to overtake and almost never get in 6th.

I have personally never had any slippage, but I'm still stock with only 6500 miles. My old Saturn Ion needed revs and had surprisingly aggressive gearing, so I just habitually always downshift and keep my RPMs in the 3k range. Maybe bad for MPG in the grand scheme, but easy on the clutch.

That said, I'm looking to get the Type R retrofit Clutch / Flywheel before I tune just to be safe. Stock clutch seems perfectly adequate for stock tune to me, nothing beyond that though.

 

[jakabony]

Were you in Sport mode by chance? In my experience, the accelerator mapping is pretty aggressive in that mode. Like, what you think may "feel" like half way is probably like 90% open. I don't know why anyone would try to accelerate from 60-70 in 6th in these cars when even 5th feels like an overdrive and is so tall. 6th is exclusively used to cruize above 70mph, I downshift to 4th any time I need to overtake and almost never get in 6th.

I have personally never had any slippage, but I'm still stock with only 6500 miles. My old Saturn Ion needed revs and had surprisingly aggressive gearing, so I just habitually always downshift and keep my RPMs in the 3k range. Maybe bad for MPG in the grand scheme, but easy on the clutch.

That said, I'm looking to get the Type R retrofit Clutch / Flywheel before I tune just to be safe. Stock clutch seems perfectly adequate for stock tune to me, nothing beyond that though.

I ran the stock clutch up until this past weekend. 10k miles on the car, 5k of it on the Ktuner 19.5/23 base tune. I rarely launched my car, and kept WOT to above 3500 rpm.

You can see my stock friction disc still looks almost new. It's all in how you drive it. That being said, I am painfully breaking in the Type R clutch/flywheel. So far, it is incredible. Super firm engagement. No rev hang. Great pedal feel.

 

[Snidely]

There seems to be so much contradictory info about which clutch to choose. For a ktuner with bolt-ons, what would be the best daily-driver friendly clutch? Is the fx200 strong enough? The 6 puck designs seem like a lot for a sub 300hp daily.

 

[jakabony]

There seems to be so much contradictory info about which clutch to choose. For a ktuner with bolt-ons, what would be the best daily-driver friendly clutch? Is the fx200 strong enough? The 6 puck designs seem like a lot for a sub 300hp daily.

It is more about the torque. With this engine, you will be above 300 wtq with 260-270hp. That said, the most popular seem to be the CM FX350 with SMF, Spec 2, 2+ or 3 with steel or aluminum flywheel (requires hydro kit), or Eman's Type R retrofit. The CM has some chatter and claimed lesser longevity. The Spec requires the hydro kit. The Type R retrofit is a little more work beforehand to get it, but it really is the best option, in my opinion. I did months of research before deciding on it.

 

[caspar21]

There seems to be so much contradictory info about which clutch to choose. For a ktuner with bolt-ons, what would be the best daily-driver friendly clutch? Is the fx200 strong enough? The 6 puck designs seem like a lot for a sub 300hp daily.

cm fx 300 is only slightly more pedal than stock and has been known to hold well over 380 tq on a motec build. it is supposed to out last the fx350(i read somewhere). i have 10k on mine so far with tsp1. rock solid after i learned to drive it properly. don't expect it to slip gently off the line. it is go or don't go. nothing in between.

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