Not a 10th gen thread but I need help!!!

[Ben775]

I have a 95 civic ex and I’m rebuilding the trans
The imput shaft bearing has completely crumbled, when I pulled the main shaft the bearings fell out of the transmission now the outer case of the bearing is stuck in the trans
Pullers don’t work there’s just no where for them to grab and I’ve tried cutting it but I can get a good enough angle to cut all the way through
The last post I saw on dseries.org was from 2009 plus those forums are toxic af
Any help would be greatly appreciated

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[Narumi]

Ok. I've been here before. Standard procedure for removal can be seen here @9:19 mark.

I understand your issue is that the inner race and its contents are gutted leaving the outer race stuck in place. Now, in its current state, the outer race is not accessible from the rear to be 'knocked/punched' out.

Your only option is to utilize a 'jaw puller attachment and slide hammer' to remove the outer race. This means you'll have to create notches for the jaw puller to lock into on the outer race (when utilizing the slide hammer).

Here is an example of the tools you will need:
Slide hammer and jaw puller

Metal carbide cutter (notching the outer race for jaw puller)

Pro tip #1: It is very important to select the proper jaw puller diameter for the bearing you are trying to remove. Most jaw puller adapters for slide hammers will have a min/max opening diameter. It is also important to select a puller that features thick enough teeth (and proper depth) to lodge into the notches you will be creating in the outer race.

Pro Tip #2: Try to purchase the jaw puller from amazon. If the tool doesn't work you can return it and go back to the drawing board to find a better one. Slide hammer is ok to cheap out on (the heavier the slide the less effort IMHO); do not cheap out on the puller adapter (material matters; cast iron, etc.). Make sure the jaw puller threads are compatible with your slide hammer.

Pro Tip #3: Do not heat the outer race. You will deform the aluminum bearing casing.

This will require a little luck but a f*ck ton of patience. Be careful not to further damage the aluminum casing/housing when notching the stuck outer race.

I'm rooting for you.

 

[vandalSI]

you could also use an aerosol can upside down to try to cool/shrink the race for easier removal.

 

[Ben775]

Ok. I've been here before. Standard procedure for removal can be seen here @9:19 mark.

I understand your issue is that the inner race and its contents are gutted leaving the outer race stuck in place. Now, in its current state, the outer race is not accessible from the rear to be 'knocked/punched' out.

Your only option is to utilize a 'jaw puller attachment and slide hammer' to remove the outer race. This means you'll have to create notches for the jaw puller to lock into on the outer race (when utilizing the slide hammer).

Here is an example of the tools you will need:
Slide hammer and jaw puller

Metal carbide cutter (notching the outer race for jaw puller)

Pro tip #1: It is very important to select the proper jaw puller diameter for the bearing you are trying to remove. Most jaw puller adapters for slide hammers will have a min/max opening diameter. It is also important to select a puller that features thick enough teeth (and proper depth) to lodge into the notches you will be creating in the outer race.

Pro Tip #2: Try to purchase the jaw puller from amazon. If the tool doesn't work you can return it and go back to the drawing board to find a better one. Slide hammer is ok to cheap out on (the heavier the slide the less effort IMHO); do not cheap out on the puller adapter (material matters; cast iron, etc.). Make sure the jaw puller threads are compatible with your slide hammer.

Pro Tip #3: Do not heat the outer race. You will deform the aluminum bearing casing.

This will require a little luck but a f*ck ton of patience. Be careful not to further damage the aluminum casing/housing when notching the stuck outer race.

I'm rooting for you.

Thanks dude s**** driving me crazy I’ll order the tools today I saw some
That are already jaw pullers with slide hammers 5 pounds seem to be the standard
Hope this works thanks for the help!

 

[Narumi]

Thanks dude s**** driving me crazy I’ll order the tools today I saw some
That are already jaw pullers with slide hammers 5 pounds seem to be the standard
Hope this works thanks for the help!

No prob! You got this.

Just want to clarify Pro Tip #3...
You can apply heat to the outer race via heatgun (if necessary). Do not use a torch.

Purchase a bunch of spare carbide cutting bits; they will get eaten up when notching.

 

[Ben775]

I saw that I can rent a slide hammer and puller from autozone ima try that first then if I have to buy one like u said
I am worried I’ll still have to take it to a shop when I tried to cut it I kinda nicked the housing but I don’t think I did damage that is catastrophic

No prob! You got this.

Just want to clarify Pro Tip #3...
You can apply heat to the outer race via heatgun (if necessary). Do not use a torch.

Purchase a bunch of spare carbide cutting bits; they will get eaten up when notching.

I saw that I can rent a slide hammer and puller from autozone ima try that first then if I have to ill buy one like u said but not from harbor freight those pullers sucked balls
I do think I’ll still have to take it to a shop tho I kinda nicked the housing when I tried to cut the bearing but I don’t think it’s anything catastrophic but it shouldn’t be left the way it is

 

[Ben775]

No prob! You got this.

Just want to clarify Pro Tip #3...
You can apply heat to the outer race via heatgun (if necessary). Do not use a torch.

Purchase a bunch of spare carbide cutting bits; they will get eaten up when notching.

Thanks again for the help I finally got the outer race out took about 2 days had to cut the pullers teeth to help them grab the notches I made but I got it out
Sorry to keep asking for help but now I have a new problem do I really need a bearing press to get the bearings on the new diff? Everything I’m reading is saying either a press or super heat the bearing to expand it… any thoughts? Much appreciated

 

[KensBlueGenX]

to get the bearings on the new diff?

Not sure I'm following you... you what to put the bearing on the shaft first? I think you need to press it into the casing the same as the stuck one was. To help do that, freeze (not heat freeze) the bearing in your freezer for at least a few hours to shrink it, then with a appropriate size (i.e. big) socket tap it in.

 

[Narumi]

Thanks again for the help I finally got the outer race out took about 2 days had to cut the pullers teeth to help them grab the notches I made but I got it out
Sorry to keep asking for help but now I have a new problem do I really need a bearing press to get the bearings on the new diff? Everything I’m reading is saying either a press or super heat the bearing to expand it… any thoughts? Much appreciated

Hi sorry for the late reply, had a high influx of customers needing repairs. Glad to hear you removed the problematic race. No worries on asking questions, I'm glad to share my experience/knowledge.

If you are performing a removal and replacement bearing on the current diff here are some notes:

REMOVAL
I have used either a bearing separator puller tool/3 jaw puller with slide hammer to complete this job (pending transmission type, tool clearance, etc...).



After removing the transmission gear set/countershaft, pull out the differential assembly. I utilize a piece of plywood with a thick towel (on top) as my 'working floor'. Place the differential assembly (face up) on top of my 'working floor', then place my left and right foot on each side of the ring gear to secure it with my body weight (as I stand above it). At that point I attach the bearing separator/3 jaw puller with slide hammer around the bearing and being to negotiate it off the differential snout.

If you choose to use a bearing separator puller then disregard my 'working floor' method.

*The second video link shows modification to the bearing separator puller tool in order to not damage the speedometer gear (DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS if you wish to re-use the gear). ALSO, do not pinch the differential snout with the bearing separator puller tool. If you are uncomfortable using this tool here is an example of it in practice:
*You may need to improvise and bestow a wider punch base prevent it from passing through into the differential snout; a bearing press flat plate saucer would work.

*The FSM may suggest heat (heatgun preferred) or freezing. Although freezing is not the norm, you can accomplish this by flipping a 'CRC Duster' can upside-down in order to apply the liquid cooling directly on the bearing/differential surface. Keep in mind, you will need to thoroughly clean the surface/area of application before attempting. Most of the time previously mentioned tools work flawlessly; however, there have been a few occasions where heat was needed to remove a damaged bearing (deformed inner race).


INSTALL
Brass drift/hammer and bearing aluminum driver set is preferred if you do not want to use a conventional press.


DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP: You will need to check the shim diff clearance with a feeler gauge.


Both YouTube links should cover most of the removal/replacement/assembly procedure. Make sure you have a trusty torque wrench and please, please, please check the diff shim case clearance. I've had to fix (previous mechanics) errors/mistakes on several freshly rebuilt transmissions due to negligence. Imagine paying twice to rebuild a transmission LMFAO.

If you have any further questions you can direct DM.

 

[Ben775]

Not sure I'm following you... you what to put the bearing on the shaft first? I think you need to press it into the casing the same as the stuck one was. To help do that, freeze (not heat freeze) the bearing in your freezer for at least a few hours to shrink it, then with a appropriate size (i.e. big) socket tap it in.

Nah we’re on to the differential bearings now

 

[Hondanickx]

Put the diff into freezer over night ,then you can use a piece of pipe or some something else that only touches the inner race of the bearing and tap it onto the diff.
I would not heat up the bearing.The press is used when you are cold assembling everything.

 

[Ben775]

Hi sorry for the late reply, had a high influx of customers needing repairs. Glad to hear you removed the problematic race. No worries on asking questions, I'm glad to share my experience/knowledge.

If you are performing a removal and replacement bearing on the current diff here are some notes:

REMOVAL
I have used either a bearing separator puller tool/3 jaw puller with slide hammer to complete this job (pending transmission type, tool clearance, etc...).



After removing the transmission gear set/countershaft, pull out the differential assembly. I utilize a piece of plywood with a thick towel (on top) as my 'working floor'. Place the differential assembly (face up) on top of my 'working floor', then place my left and right foot on each side of the ring gear to secure it with my body weight (as I stand above it). At that point I attach the bearing separator/3 jaw puller with slide hammer around the bearing and being to negotiate it off the differential snout.

If you choose to use a bearing separator puller then disregard my 'working floor' method.

*The second video link shows modification to the bearing separator puller tool in order to not damage the speedometer gear (DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS if you wish to re-use the gear). ALSO, do not pinch the differential snout with the bearing separator puller tool. If you are uncomfortable using this tool here is an example of it in practice:
*You may need to improvise and bestow a wider punch base prevent it from passing through into the differential snout; a bearing press flat plate saucer would work.

*The FSM may suggest heat (heatgun preferred) or freezing. Although freezing is not the norm, you can accomplish this by flipping a 'CRC Duster' can upside-down in order to apply the liquid cooling directly on the bearing/differential surface. Keep in mind, you will need to thoroughly clean the surface/area of application before attempting. Most of the time previously mentioned tools work flawlessly; however, there have been a few occasions where heat was needed to remove a damaged bearing (deformed inner race).


INSTALL
Brass drift/hammer and bearing aluminum driver set is preferred if you do not want to use a conventional press.


DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP: You will need to check the shim diff clearance with a feeler gauge.


Both YouTube links should cover most of the removal/replacement/assembly procedure. Make sure you have a trusty torque wrench and please, please, please check the diff shim case clearance. I've had to fix (previous mechanics) errors/mistakes on several freshly rebuilt transmissions due to negligence. Imagine paying twice to rebuild a transmission LMFAO.

If you have any further questions you can direct DM.

thanks for the help man I really appreciate it...... ALOT!!!!!
now I have a new problem I can't get the c clamp over the counter shaft bearing when trying to put the case on did all the tricks and it still won't seat.... trans work is a b****
I didn't mess with either shaft or the gears and the diff bearing shim is to spec so idk what's up

 

[Narumi]

thanks for the help man I really appreciate it...... ALOT!!!!!
now I have a new problem I can't get the c clamp over the counter shaft bearing when trying to put the case on did all the tricks and it still won't seat.... trans work is a b****
I didn't mess with either shaft or the gears and the diff bearing shim is to spec so idk what's up

DM'ed you...

For anyone else finding this thread, the link below is an extremely detailed d series transmission rebuild.

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