ClearEyes
Senior Member
- Joined
- Dec 23, 2020
- Threads
- 17
- Messages
- 70
- Reaction score
- 13
- Location
- California
- Vehicle(s)
- 2017 Civic EX T
- Thread starter
- #1
Hello,
I recently purchased my 2017 civic EX T and I am looking into installing the amp/sub system from my 2013 civic LX into my new car. I have been researching for the past few weeks trying to figure out the best/easiest way to install the amp. I have a BOSS amp wiring kit, Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D, DNF LOC (old loc from the previous car, provided by old installer), and a decent sub. I took apart the amp install wiring from my old car, I had previously paid $80 for the install. I felt I got ripped off last time so I thought id try installing it myself. I've done many installs in my old car, including installing a new head unit (wired myself) and upgraded all speakers in that car, so I am fairly confident I should be able to install the amp myself. For the project, I bought quick splices so I wouldn't have to cut into any factory wires. In the previous car, the installer hooked up power from the battery, plugged the remote wire into the interior fuse box (to me it looked like the wire was somehow plugged into an unused fuse socket, it just looked like the wire was going straight into the fuse box socket, I didn't try pulling it out, just cut the wire), and spliced into ONE rear speaker. The LOC has 5 wires, I'm thinking they're +/- L/R speaker lines and 1 ground. It spliced both positives into the one positive of the right rear speaker and both negatives into the one negative of the right rear speaker and just soldered some metal on the ground and covered it with electric tape and didn't connect it to anything. I am not an audiophile by any means and am really just trying to add some bass to my sound system as it is lacking a little for me. I was thinking I would hook up power to battery as usual. I need some help with the wiring for the LOC and remote. I would like to just quick splice the remote wire to a wire from the fuse box, but which one should I use? For the LOC, I am thinking I may just do the same thing the old installer did, hook up the LOC to a rear speaker in the same way. Would this work? I kept seeing that people were using front speakers instead of rear but I have only had the car for about two weeks and am hesitant to take out the factory head unit because I dont want to snap a clip and have gaps. Do i need a better LOC? Would it be better to hook up the LOC to both rear speakers? Does it matter for bass? These are the questions I am having at this time. I have tried researching on this site but am having trouble finding exact answers to my questions. Also, I asked a shop how much to install amp and they quoted me $180 and said something about having to have the bluetooth active noise canceling done. To me this seems like a giant rip off so I declined but is there something I Would have to do with the noise canceling?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
I recently purchased my 2017 civic EX T and I am looking into installing the amp/sub system from my 2013 civic LX into my new car. I have been researching for the past few weeks trying to figure out the best/easiest way to install the amp. I have a BOSS amp wiring kit, Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D, DNF LOC (old loc from the previous car, provided by old installer), and a decent sub. I took apart the amp install wiring from my old car, I had previously paid $80 for the install. I felt I got ripped off last time so I thought id try installing it myself. I've done many installs in my old car, including installing a new head unit (wired myself) and upgraded all speakers in that car, so I am fairly confident I should be able to install the amp myself. For the project, I bought quick splices so I wouldn't have to cut into any factory wires. In the previous car, the installer hooked up power from the battery, plugged the remote wire into the interior fuse box (to me it looked like the wire was somehow plugged into an unused fuse socket, it just looked like the wire was going straight into the fuse box socket, I didn't try pulling it out, just cut the wire), and spliced into ONE rear speaker. The LOC has 5 wires, I'm thinking they're +/- L/R speaker lines and 1 ground. It spliced both positives into the one positive of the right rear speaker and both negatives into the one negative of the right rear speaker and just soldered some metal on the ground and covered it with electric tape and didn't connect it to anything. I am not an audiophile by any means and am really just trying to add some bass to my sound system as it is lacking a little for me. I was thinking I would hook up power to battery as usual. I need some help with the wiring for the LOC and remote. I would like to just quick splice the remote wire to a wire from the fuse box, but which one should I use? For the LOC, I am thinking I may just do the same thing the old installer did, hook up the LOC to a rear speaker in the same way. Would this work? I kept seeing that people were using front speakers instead of rear but I have only had the car for about two weeks and am hesitant to take out the factory head unit because I dont want to snap a clip and have gaps. Do i need a better LOC? Would it be better to hook up the LOC to both rear speakers? Does it matter for bass? These are the questions I am having at this time. I have tried researching on this site but am having trouble finding exact answers to my questions. Also, I asked a shop how much to install amp and they quoted me $180 and said something about having to have the bluetooth active noise canceling done. To me this seems like a giant rip off so I declined but is there something I Would have to do with the noise canceling?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
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