Help - FK7 BLOWN TURBO or worse??? Limp mode

[KUROxCHBS]

21’ 6mt civic hatchback sport
Mods:
27Won Intercooler
Apexi N1 Exhaust
Stage 1 PRL Intake Coupler
K&N Drop In Filter

Stock block, stock turbo, and not tuned. This is forsures on my part to blame for negligence. I dont WOT everyday but have had a handful of playful runs all over 20mph and maybe 2-3 digs at the red light by myself. The negligence on my part was not changing my oil in time, thinking I could make it to 30k — so I could do an oil change, brake pad upgrade, Amsoil MTF change, coolant flush, and Mishimoto oil catch can all at 30k.

My odometer said I needed an oil change 800+ miles ago but figured I could stretch it for another 900 miles till 30k….boy was I wrong.
With that in mind, I went out after work and did a small pull at around 10mph to 35+mph shifting right around 6200-6300rpm. I didnt think anything of it till I stepped out and started talking to my bud with the car still running a little later. I smelled burnt oil and didnt think to check it right away. Idiot move ik.
It wasn’t until I was about 5miles away from home that I really noticed my car bogging and building no boost ( the car could rev through the rpms but was struggling to maintain/pick up speed on the freeway after 4500rpm). I was barely able to make it home and the last mile was pretty brutal with a continual decrease in power. Lots of burnt engine oil smell through the cabin as well. (Not sure if I had any white or blue smoke coming from my exhaust as my priority was getting home as quick as possible).

I’ve now changed the oil with the hope that it would do something….nope. Boost no longer builds and i’m no longer able to move my car down the street at all.
I have warranty on my car left as i’ve only had it for about a year and a half.

MY QUESTION: Is it worth it to tow it to Honda to try and get it fixed under warranty (hopefully without putting stock parts back on because i’m sure i’ve lost one or two oem bolts/clamps) or just buy a oem CRV turbo off facebook or ebay to upgrade to the Si turbo IF its a turbo problem — i’ve heard CRV and Si’s share the same turbo and are direct bolt ons to the 1.5’s. Any helpful info would be appreciated!

quick clip:

 

[bluehatch17]

I don’t know what is wrong with your car. But none of the mods you listed would cause that issue. Also, are you doing mileage or percentage on maint meter? I have ran cars past certain mileage. But I haven’t ran cars at 0% maint minder. Unless you were super low on oil, that also wouldn’t cause your issue. Are you tuned?

Your mods are pretty mild and they should definitely not affect warranty.

 

[KUROxCHBS]

I don’t know what is wrong with your car. But none of the mods you listed would cause that issue. Also, are you doing mileage or percentage on maint meter? I have ran cars past certain mileage. But I haven’t ran cars at 0% maint minder. Unless you were super low on oil, that also wouldn’t cause your issue. Are you tuned?

Your mods are pretty mild and they should definitely not affect warranty.

I usually do mileage but will confess it ranges anywhere from 3k to 6k. Not tuned and I 100% wasn’t low on oil as I would regularly check oil weekly. I’ll be checking my charge pipes, putting some coolant in, and hopefully getting my hands on a OBD2 scanner to see if theres any issues. (There are/ have been zero CEL since i’ve had the car as well)

 

[LoneWolf77]

You went 30,000 miles without changing the oil? Ouch. I hope your turbo is okay, but that's a lot.of miles. Best of luck

 

[04sthemi]

You went 30,000 miles without changing the oil? Ouch. I hope your turbo is okay, but that's a lot.of miles. Best of luck

X2 on the 30k mile part

 

[KUROxCHBS]

You went 30,000 miles without changing the oil? Ouch. I hope your turbo is okay, but that's a lot.of miles. Best of luck

God no. My previous reply stated my intervals ranged from 3k-6k miles. This interval I was pushing it to (had I reached 30k) 7500miles. Always OEM 0w-20 and OEM oil filter. This time around I used OEM oil but a K&N oil filter.

 

[ChefRyeSi]

DM me if you want a FK7 turbo, i have one for cheap

 

[SDAlexander8]

7500 miles on your oil didn't do it. That’s nothing. Your mods didn't do it either. Maybe you didn’t tighten something down properly when you modified your i take or exhaust.

Check your hose clamps on your charge pipes, intake, etc. Look for holes on your intercooler.

Your engine sounds great too. If the turbo blew, you’d hear a loud bang. The car would still try to build boost and the turbo would grind and screech.

I have 80,000 miles on my Si and WOT every single day.

 

[KUROxCHBS]

7500 miles on your oil didn't do it. That’s nothing. Your mods didn't do it either. Maybe you didn’t tighten something down properly when you modified your i take or exhaust.

Check your hose clamps on your charge pipes, intake, etc. Look for holes on your intercooler.

Your engine sounds great too. If the turbo blew, you’d hear a loud bang. The car would still try to build boost and the turbo would grind and screech.

I have 80,000 miles on my Si and WOT every single day.

Checked my charge pipes, refilled my coolant (it was low), and put some Mishimoto gold tape on the inlet pipe (probably not the best thing to do if I plan on taking it to the dealer) while I was buttoning everything up. Nothing was lose and retightened most of the charge pipe clamps as precaution.

My guess is I probably killed the clutch. As I had the two front wheels in the air, I put it in first and gave it some throttle…nothing. I was going to check the turbo itself too, but one of the heat shield bolts was such a pain, I didnt wanna risk snapping it so I let it be.
The only other things I can think of are:
A.) ECU forced the car on limp mode to protect it. I.e. i’m assuming air-to-fuel ratios or something of that sort because of old oil, and will need a reflash from Honda themselves, or

B. ) Possible internal damage caused by overheating oil, leading parts to essentially clunk up and maybe melt??? (Might be a reach but idk)

Ive also been reading up on people’s car going limp mode and some of them talk about the EWG (electronic waste gate) being kept open or closed, and not allowing them to produce any or too much boost.
I’m honestly very lost and in over my head, but I ordered a BlueDriver Pro OBD2 bluetooth scanner off amazon to see if that gives me any other input before deciding to take it to the dealer and see if I can get whatever damage covered under warranty… sigh…its not my week

 

[Ap1 George]

Checked my charge pipes, refilled my coolant (it was low), and put some Mishimoto gold tape on the inlet pipe (probably not the best thing to do if I plan on taking it to the dealer) while I was buttoning everything up. Nothing was lose and retightened most of the charge pipe clamps as precaution.

My guess is I probably killed the clutch. As I had the two front wheels in the air, I put it in first and gave it some throttle…nothing. I was going to check the turbo itself too, but one of the heat shield bolts was such a pain, I didnt wanna risk snapping it so I let it be.
The only other things I can think of are:
A.) ECU forced the car on limp mode to protect it. I.e. i’m assuming air-to-fuel ratios or something of that sort because of old oil, and will need a reflash from Honda themselves, or

B. ) Possible internal damage caused by overheating oil, leading parts to essentially clunk up and maybe melt??? (Might be a reach but idk)

Ive also been reading up on people’s car going limp mode and some of them talk about the EWG (electronic waste gate) being kept open or closed, and not allowing them to produce any or too much boost.
I’m honestly very lost and in over my head, but I ordered a BlueDriver Pro OBD2 bluetooth scanner off amazon to see if that gives me any other input before deciding to take it to the dealer and see if I can get whatever damage covered under warranty… sigh…its not my week

Have you checked if your electronic wastegate actuator still has the plug connected? I had my disconnect numerous times by the hood prop rod coming loose during WOT pulls.

 

[KUROxCHBS]

Have you checked if your electronic wastegate actuator still has the plug connected? I had my disconnect numerous times by the hood prop rod coming loose during WOT pulls.

If i’m being honest, i’m a total rook and I have no idea what or where that is. If it was closed, would that contribute to the wheels not spinning in the air when I put it in first gear? Or not building boost at all?

 

[Ap1 George]

If i’m being honest, i’m a total rook and I have no idea what or where that is. If it was closed, would that contribute to the wheels not spinning in the air when I put it in first gear? Or not building boost at all?

The picture shows the wastegate actuator plug. In my experience when during the numerous times the plug came off, the wastegate remained open so the exhaust gases were bypassing the turbine hence I got no boost.

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