2018 Civic Si Sedan Subwoofer Upgrade

[Sgtbaker420]

Yes, that should work fine. You said it way better. I was trying to say that the adapter needed to be cut, but we were talking criss cross.

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[IvanJonn]

Yes, that should work fine. You said it way better. I was trying to say that the adapter needed to be cut, but we were talking criss cross.

Yeah! Sorry about that, we were talking about two completely different adapters Sounds good though! I'm gonna have to save up for this, but at least now I know what route I want to go. Thanks for all the help!

 

[Sgtbaker420]

Yeah! Sorry about that, we were talking about two completely different adapters Sounds good though! I'm gonna have to save up for this, but at least now I know what route I want to go. Thanks for all the help!

No problem! I'll still give you an update after I get it installed...

 

[IvanJonn]

No problem! I'll still give you an update after I get it installed...

Thanks! I'd appreciate that. Show me the setup once it's all in! And really consider the link to the adapter I sent so you don't have to cut up the factory wire!

 

[Sgtbaker420]

Soooo. I just spent 4 hours at the audio installation place. The day I setup the appointment one of the workers "tested" my speaker. "Looks good" we schedule an appointment. Today. they ran the power and the ground, etc. According to them, the unit was supposed to come with 15 amp fuses and only came with 10 and it blew the fuses. So he replaces the fuses with 15 amp fuses. They blow also. So he says it's D.O.A. I told him they tested it B4 I made the appointment, he says that their test is only 10 amps and not 15 or 20. Whatever. He also tells me that I NEED a LC2i because there is a "noise cancelling unit"in the trunk that will interfere with the operation of the sub inputs. I've uploaded a pic. Just on a quick search in google this is the antenna control unit. Not sure what it does exactly yet, but sounds shady. I ordered the Fockford Fosgate 300-10 as a complete package with the unit AND the wiring together. I've contacted the seller on Amazon and inquired as to an exchange but I'm honestly afraid that the seller is going to only do an exchange if I pay to have all of the wiring taken out of the car.

Not happy.

Anybody out there know if this "antenna control unit" is a legit thing and/or if you've installed any after market subs in your Si, if you need an LC21?

 

[Epoe]

I have the same P300 subwoofer and did not use the LC2i. Also although the P300 owners manual specifies 15A fuses, it is shipped with 10A fuses and that is what I am using without issue. If they tested it before hand and after the install they are claiming it doesn’t work I would begin to question their knowledge on audio equipment. Especially because you do not need to lose the factory sub signal to add a sub. I can do a more in depth guide on how I installed mine in the next few days if you don’t have it sorted by then, let me know, but if I were you, first thing I would do is stop letting that place cut wires because it can all be done without cutting any factory wires.

 

[Sgtbaker420]

Thank you for the input. I appreciate it.
They didn't cut any factory wires. It looks like so far the install looks very clean. I took a pic of where they spliced into the rear speakers. It looks like they did a quality job running the 12V and ground and they've been in business for 30 years. (And my only local source for install besides Best Buy and or a 1 hour drive).
He said if they spliced into the sub speaker line that the built in crossover would eliminate a lot of frequencies above 50htz ...in case I wanted those in the p300 sound range. He also said that since all of the lines are independently amplified coming out of the head unit that an LC2i is required so that the p300 isnt amplifying an already amplified input and creating clipping in the sound causing major distortion and over time it can damage the speaker.

Thoughts?

 

[Epoe]

I ended up connecting to the wires from the sub and the wires to the left rear deck speaker. This seemed to have all the frequencies for bass that it should and I have not needed the LC2i but I will say that I don’t do this professionally. If they are suggested that you need it, maybe yours will end up sounding better than mine, I’m not sure. Could also be the types of music you listen to? So far for me the bass is there (I don’t blast it) and sounds good enough for my ears.

I don’t know if there is anything wrong with doing it the way I did so if there is anyone who is able to comment on doing it like that, it would be welcomed. As long as it’s not damaging anything, I wouldn’t see a reason to change it.

 

[Epoe]

Oh and you mention a noise cancelling unit, from what I’ve been able to find, the 10th gen civics do not have this. You could double check to confirm but I was always told if you have it you’ll know as soon as you start playing the sub, and there’s quite a few members who have installed subs without a mention of any noise cancellation.

 

[Epoe]

What ended up happening with this. Were you able to get everything installed?

 

[Sgtbaker420]

What ended up happening with this. Were you able to get everything installed?

Good timing! Yesterday in fact. Install looks clean. Sound is amazing. Way, way, way more powerful than I had expected. No need for the LC2i.

 

[jestare]

Good timing! Yesterday in fact. Install looks clean. Sound is amazing. Way, way, way more powerful than I had expected.

So One set taps into the rear speaker and the other into the factory sub line?

 

[Sgtbaker420]

So One set taps into the rear speaker and the other into the factory sub line?

They tapped into just the L+R rear speakers. I was worried that the input would be screwy because of the factory crossovers, but the sound is actually really nice. The built in crossover on the Rockford Fosgate works perfect.

 

[Epoe]

So One set taps into the rear speaker and the other into the factory sub line?

I'll probably end up playing around with my setup to satisfy my own curiosity this weekend. I have the inputs as the rear left speaker and the factory sub and have left all the factory speakers including the sub connected.

Baker has them as the two rear speakers and has left the factory sub disconnected and is having good results this way.

On a side note, a local audio store I called about this setup mentioned that he would try just tapping into the factory sub line and leave the rear speakers alone. The sub has a mono output and should be receiving signals from both left and right so there shouldn't be a need to get multiple signals from each speaker. I have yet to try this but I will this weekend.

It sounds to me that there are different ways of doing this without any really being wrong, and it depends on the range of bass you are looking for. I will post my results afterwards but take them lightly as it is really all subjective, and the types of music you listen to probably have a big influence on how it sounds as well.

 

[Epoe]

Tested out the few ways described above. As far as whether the factory sub stays connected or not is pretty minor, as it hardly puts anything out to start with.

Both inputs coming coming from the sub line produced good sound and this would be a good way and probably the easiest to do quickly.

Inputs from R+L had good sound regardless of whether or not the factory sub was connected. I seemed to be missing some range using just these inputs, but could possibly be solved by playing around with the sub adjustments more.

Input from sub and 1 rear speaker sounded good and for me was the easiest way to get the range of bass I was looking for.

There really isn’t a ton of difference between these, and again it is subjective and depends on personal preference and the music being played.

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