For those of you running an LC2i for a subwoofer on 10 speaker systems...

[Trey]

I see. So your saying there are no actual individual lines for each speaker coming out of the head unit going to the factory amp but instead there is a single fiber optic line from head unit to factory amp and then from factory amp to individual speaker. Sorry just trying to understand the setup before I tear into in. I do appreciate your feedback though.

Correct. Fiber to the amp then speaker wires leave the amp.

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[CivicX_Si_VTurbo]

Courtesy of another member from a different thread

 

[CivicX_Si_VTurbo]

This is what I have so far on my 2017 Honda Civic Si amp and subwoofer install. I am installing a LC2i, JL audio JX 250/1 amp, and JL audio 8w1v3. I began by removing the battery to access the rubber grommet behind the battery to penetrate my 12v power wire through the firewall (pic included). It was quite tough but patience will be rewarded.

I then removed the kick panel by the passenger door to access the factory amp wires in which to tap my LC2i i(pic included). Now for this, I used the wire diagram above which does have a typo but hopefully we can get that cleared up. However for now I have wired mine as follows Front Right Speaker + A13 (Gray), Front Right Speaker - A12 (Purple), Front Left Speaker + A6 (light blue), Front Left speaker - A5 (light green). I used the front speakers due to some searching I've done claiming these are the best to use to restore full range sound. Also same reason I am using a LC2i rather then an LOC.

I am tapping my remote wire off of the 12v + cigarette lighter socket wire (white) since I feel I will never use it so it shouldnt disturb anything else (pic included). Im assuming you could run off the factory amp power wire, but I was hesitant to in case something shorted on my install side and as a result might effect the factory amp. To access behind the socket I actually just stuck my hand behind the panel where I have a red arrow on the bottom right and push out the panel with the socket and usb connector. It should pop out easier from behind.

This is where I am so far. I will be installing the JL audio bass knob on the slots next to the traction control and mounting amp and sub in truck. I will add info and pics as I go. Hopefully this is of help to you guys. If you have any feedback of something I am doing wrong, Please dont hesitate to let me know.

 

[Trey]

This is what I have so far on my 2017 Honda Civic Si amp and subwoofer install. I am installing a LC2i, JL audio JX 250/1 amp, and JL audio 8w1v3. I began by removing the battery to access the rubber grommet behind the battery to penetrate my 12v power wire through the firewall (pic included). It was quite tough but patience will be rewarded.

I then removed the kick panel by the passenger door to access the factory amp wires in which to tap my LC2i i(pic included). Now for this, I used the wire diagram above which does have a typo but hopefully we can get that cleared up. However for now I have wired mine as follows Front Right Speaker + A13 (Gray), Front Right Speaker - A12 (Purple), Front Left Speaker + A6 (light blue), Front Left speaker - A5 (light green). I used the front speakers due to some searching I've done claiming these are the best to use to restore full range sound. Also same reason I am using a LC2i rather then an LOC.

I am tapping my remote wire off of the 12v + cigarette lighter socket wire (white) since I feel I will never use it so it shouldnt disturb anything else (pic included). Im assuming you could run off the factory amp power wire, but I was hesitant to in case something shorted on my install side and as a result might effect the factory amp. To access behind the socket I actually just stuck my hand behind the panel where I have a red arrow on the bottom right and push out the panel with the socket and usb connector. It should pop out easier from behind.

This is where I am so far. I will be installing the JL audio bass knob on the slots next to the traction control and mounting amp and sub in truck. I will add info and pics as I go. Hopefully this is of help to you guys. If you have any feedback of something I am doing wrong, Please dont hesitate to let me know.

I tapped the sub wires at the sub.

 

[CivicX_Si_VTurbo]

I tapped the sub wires at the sub.

Nice. Man you are a quick replier. Ive posted this on 2 other threads just to get some feedback only to get nothing. BTW thanks again for your earlier feedback. Saved me so much time from pulling out head unit and looking for wires that don't exist. Again, I wanted to tap the LC2i into the front speakers cuz I like that I will have the option to add an amp for the interior speakers when I decide to. The LC2i takes high inputs and has 2 separate RCA outputs, 1 for full out put and 1 for sub output. I just thought this would require having full range inputs from the front speakers. Guess I'll keep you posted as I move forward. Althought looks like I might not be able to finish for another 2-3 weeks due to work.

 

[carrsteven]

For those wanting to do this without actually tapping the wires, this harness works for plug and play ability. Used it in my SI with no issues. I only tapped into the sub plug though.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEPJY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[fsucutter]

The factory radio sends full range signals to the amp. the amp has a dsp built in which cuts the signal and only sends what is needed to the tweets, mids then sub.

Did you connect your mono sub wires correctly to the Lc2i?
http://www.audiocontrol.com/knowled...t-mono-output-can-just-send-mono-signal-lc2i/

Did you setup the Lc2i accubass correctly?
http://www.audiocontrol.com/knowledge-base/how-do-i-set-accubass/

View attachment 68417

Hey there - thanks for your great posts - a quick question...I've got a Kicker sub in a powered box and an attached LC2i - I'm not quite hearing bass as I would hope or expect - can you tell me if the 8 speaker setup (my EX-L w/Navi) also would need the input of left and right to get the proper bass, or in the 8 speaker setup, is it okay to simply tap into one side of the car's output? To be honest, I'm not exactly sure what the shop did, but I wonder if it's necessary and they didn't know?

Thanks!

 

[integra15]

You can use either the left or right front channel. No need for both. Bass frequencies are not recorded with left or right bias, especially in music.

 

[Trey]

You can use either the left or right front channel. No need for both. Bass frequencies are not recorded with left or right bias, especially in music.

Actually, the tweeters and mids are factory crossed over so if you tap them you will not get bass frequencies. You need to tap the factory sub.

 

[integra15]

It is a matter of preference. The sub has a very very steep crossover. It sounded terrible to me. The mid front speakers still have bass but it is rolled off at a much more gradual level and you get upper bass frequencies as well. I much prefer the sound from using the front midrange as input. In addition you can add bass back in with the aftermarket amplifier bass boost.

 

[mitchie]

Hey guys I am going to do my setup tomorrow but I have a few questions:

Adding the below:
Audio Control Lc2i
JL 10W0v3
JL MX 500/1

I have seen some people say to get the best signal for the sub to tap into the front speakers, but I have also seen some say to tap into the stock sub. Which is best?
Do I need to touch to stock amp at all?
Also do you guys keep the stock sub connected after adding an aftermarket sub?

 

[carrsteven]

Hey guys I am going to do my setup tomorrow but I have a few questions:

Adding the below:
Audio Control Lc2i
JL 10W0v3
JL MX 500/1

I have seen some people say to get the best signal for the sub to tap into the front speakers, but I have also seen some say to tap into the stock sub. Which is best?
Do I need to touch to stock amp at all?
Also do you guys keep the stock sub connected after adding an aftermarket sub?

The signal to the sub is already filtered for the lower frequencies, however, the filter is set low, so you lose out on some of the higher frequency bass. I'm using sub and left rear for my inputs to my lc7i (leftover from previous car). Just dont tie them together or you'll get an error with the factory amp and the audio will shut down. I wired my inputs like my manual says, sub into L+/R- and left rear into R+/L-. I could have wired it differently since I have the 7i and it has more inputs but it works 100% the way it is. I have 2 JL 10W0v3 and the sound is amazing.

 

[integra15]

From what I recall the front mids have a roll off at about 100-125 hz, and it is pretty gradual. Bass boost, adjustable preferably, can add the lost bass back if you go that route.

I say try it both ways and see witch you prefer. The rears, should not be used as input because Honda tuned them more as satellite speakers, they are highly filtered.

 

[ericscott21]

The signal to the sub is already filtered for the lower frequencies, however, the filter is set low, so you lose out on some of the higher frequency bass. I'm using sub and left rear for my inputs to my lc7i (leftover from previous car). Just dont tie them together or you'll get an error with the factory amp and the audio will shut down. I wired my inputs like my manual says, sub into L+/R- and left rear into R+/L-. I could have wired it differently since I have the 7i and it has more inputs but it works 100% the way it is. I have 2 JL 10W0v3 and the sound is amazing.

would using that same connection technique work with a LOC?

 

[Evofc1407]

This is what I have so far on my 2017 Honda Civic Si amp and subwoofer install. I am installing a LC2i, JL audio JX 250/1 amp, and JL audio 8w1v3. I began by removing the battery to access the rubber grommet behind the battery to penetrate my 12v power wire through the firewall (pic included). It was quite tough but patience will be rewarded.

I then removed the kick panel by the passenger door to access the factory amp wires in which to tap my LC2i i(pic included). Now for this, I used the wire diagram above which does have a typo but hopefully we can get that cleared up. However for now I have wired mine as follows Front Right Speaker + A13 (Gray), Front Right Speaker - A12 (Purple), Front Left Speaker + A6 (light blue), Front Left speaker - A5 (light green). I used the front speakers due to some searching I've done claiming these are the best to use to restore full range sound. Also same reason I am using a LC2i rather then an LOC.

I am tapping my remote wire off of the 12v + cigarette lighter socket wire (white) since I feel I will never use it so it shouldnt disturb anything else (pic included). Im assuming you could run off the factory amp power wire, but I was hesitant to in case something shorted on my install side and as a result might effect the factory amp. To access behind the socket I actually just stuck my hand behind the panel where I have a red arrow on the bottom right and push out the panel with the socket and usb connector. It should pop out easier from behind.

This is where I am so far. I will be installing the JL audio bass knob on the slots next to the traction control and mounting amp and sub in truck. I will add info and pics as I go. Hopefully this is of help to you guys. If you have any feedback of something I am doing wrong, Please dont hesitate to let me know.

Did you cut the grommet?

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