Does the clutch engagement point seem high to anyone else?

DRuby said:

I contorted my 70 yr body under driver space for a look. The wire disconnect point wasn't apparent and I tried an adjustable wrench on the lock nut without luck.

How many turns do you think?

Aleve helped afterward.

Click to expand...

Woah, i am 32 Years Old, and i literally pulled my side muscle when i tried looking for it the first time.

The disconnect point needs 2 hands to work it, and i after i loosen the lock nut, i turned it in halfway from the original point. So i didn't count how many turns..

Hope this image help you



You want to loosen up lock nut B, and twist pedal switch A deeper

Sly_Si said:

Woah, i am 32 Years Old, and i literally pulled my side muscle when i tried looking for it the first time.

The disconnect point needs 2 hands to work it, and i after i loosen the lock nut, i turned it in halfway from the original point. So i didn't count how many turns..

Hope this image help you

You want to loosen up lock nut B, and twist pedal switch A deeper

Click to expand...

Thanks. This drawing is very helpful. By the way, can you share where that came from?

My sockets and metric wrenches are closed ends so I'll get some open endeds and descend again into the depths of the driver's floor.

Also, I'm thinking of trying to fit a "cap" on the end of the switch rod if I can't get enough leverage on the nut. I'll put a gauge on the rod diameter and look around for something that works. Maybe steal a rod end protector from my dishwasher rack!?.

Doesn't seem like a lot of travel needs to be taken out of the switch if only a turn or two got things working right.

DRuby said:

Thanks. This drawing is very helpful. By the way, can you share where that came from?

My sockets and metric wrenches are closed ends so I'll get some open endeds and descend again into the depths of the driver's floor.

Also, I'm thinking of trying to fit a "cap" on the end of the switch rod if I can't get enough leverage on the nut. I'll put a gauge on the rod diameter and look around for something that works. Maybe steal a rod end protector from my dishwasher rack!?.

Doesn't seem like a lot of travel needs to be taken out of the switch if only a turn or two got things working right.

Click to expand...

I got that diagram from another thread here.

And, i think i turned quite a bit lol. Almost to the end of the thread.

If i don't need to put cap on that switch, most likely you won't need it either.

Let me know how it goes for you buddy!

Sly_Si said:

I got that diagram from another thread here.

And, i think i turned quite a bit lol. Almost to the end of the thread.

If i don't need to put cap on that switch, most likely you won't need it either.

Let me know how it goes for you buddy!

Click to expand...

Thanks. Drawings like that are gold.

Let you know how I end up on this.

DRuby said:

Thanks. Drawings like that are gold.

Let you know how I end up on this.

Click to expand...

I found an end cap from a closet wire shelf system that seemed to be promising only to find that access through the small hole in the steel support bracket is almost impossible.

My second thought is to disable the switch with a permanent short/open. If you have disconnected the switch wiring, does the connector have locking tabs to be concerned about. I wouldn't want to break a tab and not be able to replug it if this idea is wrong.

I just hope Honda hasn't programmed a logic check to verify the switch is in the circuit before pressing the clutch and changing its state from open to closed.