Blew The Turbo and Seized The Motor

[USNengineman]

I go one step further and get an oil analysis every oil change. Once the wear metals start to increase I know it's time to inspect the turbo shaft play and consider whether I might spin a rod soon and need to get that built block.

So far, wear metals have been decreasing since new at excellent levels.

how often do you change?

Sponsored

 

[JT Si]

how often do you change?

So far around 5,500 miles each time. Using Amsoil 0W-20 Signature Series or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20.

 

[USNengineman]

So far around 5,500 miles each time. Using Amsoil 0W-20 Signature Series or Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20.

are you tuned?? any other mods?
i was thinking 3500-4k would be the range ill do it is. I change the OE oil at 3k. Just always been a 3k guy with all my cars. I guess next time ill get an analysis done.

 

[JT Si]

are you tuned?? any other mods?
i was thinking 3500-4k would be the range ill do it is. I change the OE oil at 3k. Just always been a 3k guy with all my cars. I guess next time ill get an analysis done.

TSP stage 1 with lots of driving in map 3 on back roads, hitting peak boost in 3rd and 4th gear over and over.

The last oil change interval was almost 100% driving like a madman on backroads. I don't commute to work.

I have a 27Won Cai, PRL frontpipe, 27Won RMM and an Act clutch allowing me to put that torque down to the road.

I've attached my two analyses so far. First was Amsoil, second was Pennzoil.

 

[USNengineman]

TSP stage 1 with lots of driving in map 3 on back roads, hitting peak boost in 3rd and 4th gear over and over.

The last oil change interval was almost 100% driving like a madman on backroads. I don't commute to work.

I have a 27Won Cai, PRL frontpipe, 27Won RMM and an Act clutch allowing me to put that torque down to the road.

I've attached my two analyses so far. First was Amsoil, second was Pennzoil.

Thanks for the detailed answers man! having fact based evidence makes me respect this forum more and more!!
I have almost the same mods as you, 27won CAI,RMM and DP!

 

[JT Si]

Thanks for the detailed answers man! having fact based evidence makes me respect this forum more and more!!
I have almost the same mods as you, 27won CAI,RMM and DP!

As much as people want to pretend every oil is the same, you really get what you pay for (or at least you get what you research). There's plenty of reliable evidence that Amsoil is the number one motor oil and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is a really close second. Pennzoil is great but its additive package is not quite as good as Amsoil.

Anyone who uses a synthetic blend or an inferior motor oil with all of the evidence that is available, measured and anecdotal, gets what they deserve. Especially when they drive as hard as I do, or the OP.

 

[EdwinDrn]

My advice for what it is worth. If you want a faster car, buy a faster car. It will be more reliable, durable and retain it's value better.

I say this all the damn time.. LOL

 

[letsgoMINAJE]

Two things:

1. What intake specifically? Because a cannot find a CAI for our platform from MAP. The ones I see appear to be short ram.

2. Saw someone mention in a different thread that it specifically states on MAP's website that you need to MAP Stage 1+ Tune specifically...not sure how much this matters except that if you aren't monitoring your stats, you can't know if the car is functioning properly with the MAP CAI on the TSP tune.

 

[TheGrandManyon]

I have TSP on my 2018 and I keep it in map 3 pretty much all the time unless it's rainy. You had me worried I'm driving a time bomb until you mentioned driving like crazy and going 130. I like to give it a little juice every now and then but mostly drive pretty tame. I don't suspect I'm causing any real long-term damage. Most of us probably aren't unless we drive like that.

 

[Dxz3]

Basically been running k tuner(19/23) since last december and got tsp stage 1 in june and also installed a MAP cai. I run the car like a maniac and always run it on map 3 pretty much. My car is a 2017 si with 74000 miles. I commute far to school and work usually 80 - 100 miles a day on the highway in south florida. I got my oil changed at firestone last and had gone 4100 miles on this synthetic blend. I was on the highway on a roadtrip runing 93 octane fuel. I went to pass a truck and decided to take a lil pull aswell with the car in map 3 sport mode. I was chillin on cruise control at 75mph and downshifted w a revmatch to 5th and accelerated to about 130 mph then i felt the car start to deaccelerate w my pedal to the floor. No boom or any noise. My car kept running but I was making 0 psi boost and it felt slow as hell. I pulled over thinking it was a leak in the turbo system right before I made it to a stop. I saw black smoke coming out my exhaust. I blew the turbo's axle of the turbine wheel/compressor wheel and that caused all the engine oil to leak out the motor. Engine oil runs around the bearing of this axle to keep it cool and smooth. So now I need a new turbo and new motor estimated at a 10K job. Pretty disappointed in honda and idk if i feel safe running this tune anymore. I had plans for a aftermarket intercooler, dp/fp, bigger turbo, e85 kit and exhaust. But now i have lost faith in this l15b. Let me know what you think about all this.

You really shouldn't be hitting boost in 5th or 6th gear for this exact reason man...

 

[Apathie]

It blows my mind that people like this exist and function in society. Runs the car hard as hell, with an aggressive tune on a stock car and can’t change his own oil. When the engine blows it’s not their fault or responsibility, it’s Honda’s. This is a civic that gets 40 mpg, you’re not even in a CTR.
I can’t think of any way to be a bigger ?


Just because the engineering safety factors allow for more stock power doesn’t mean you’re running safely. The safety factor is there so a bad engine that’s barely in spec from the factory won’t have any problems and will last like a Honda.

 

[Jay.fk7]

Basically been running k tuner(19/23) since last december and got tsp stage 1 in june and also installed a MAP cai. I run the car like a maniac and always run it on map 3 pretty much. My car is a 2017 si with 74000 miles. I commute far to school and work usually 80 - 100 miles a day on the highway in south florida. I got my oil changed at firestone last and had gone 4100 miles on this synthetic blend. I was on the highway on a roadtrip runing 93 octane fuel. I went to pass a truck and decided to take a lil pull aswell with the car in map 3 sport mode. I was chillin on cruise control at 75mph and downshifted w a revmatch to 5th and accelerated to about 130 mph then i felt the car start to deaccelerate w my pedal to the floor. No boom or any noise. My car kept running but I was making 0 psi boost and it felt slow as hell. I pulled over thinking it was a leak in the turbo system right before I made it to a stop. I saw black smoke coming out my exhaust. I blew the turbo's axle of the turbine wheel/compressor wheel and that caused all the engine oil to leak out the motor. Engine oil runs around the bearing of this axle to keep it cool and smooth. So now I need a new turbo and new motor estimated at a 10K job. Pretty disappointed in honda and idk if i feel safe running this tune anymore. I had plans for a aftermarket intercooler, dp/fp, bigger turbo, e85 kit and exhaust. But now i have lost faith in this l15b. Let me know what you think about all this.

you gotta keep accountability of your knock control. You were probably well over 1.00 which is a dangerous level to be in. Given 93 octane is better than 91 here in CA your knock will still rise unless you had some E85 in your tank. I’m really sorry this happened to you. I daily drive on map 3 all the time but driving at 130 will definitely sky rocket that knock control. If I ever get it to at least 0.70 I let off the throttle and drive casual at six gear to bring it back to 0.49. If you decide to get your engine replaced please make sure you are keeping an eye on your parameters. This is a safe tune but it’s not safe if you aren’t using it properly. And yes TSP sells a built block for almost 3800 which is much cheaper than 10k. I can imagine it’s still cheaper to install that block with labor. Once again I’m sorry about your loss but I’m sure you will come back stronger ??

 

[MoTeC R]

I change every 3k, I am pushing my car pretty hard so I think staying the 3k route is best for heat and preventing as much premature wear as possible. No science in mind just pushing the engine harder I think deserves more frequent services personally. Just my 2 cents.

Me and a buddy were out in our Rs a few days ago. I think he was surprised by my car. He was especially impressed by the 20" x 10" wheel fitment and power at all levels. (I do baby 1st a bit until I get the 2.3L race build and P600 (and of course a twin disc clutch upgrade).

 

[Gruber]

you gotta keep accountability of your knock control. You were probably well over 1.00 which is a dangerous level to be in. Given 93 octane is better than 91 here in CA your knock will still rise unless you had some E85 in your tank. I’m really sorry this happened to you. I daily drive on map 3 all the time but driving at 130 will definitely sky rocket that knock control. If I ever get it to at least 0.70 I let off the throttle and drive casual at six gear to bring it back to 0.49. If you decide to get your engine replaced please make sure you are keeping an eye on your parameters. This is a safe tune but it’s not safe if you aren’t using it properly. And yes TSP sells a built block for almost 3800 which is much cheaper than 10k. I can imagine it’s still cheaper to install that block with labor. Once again I’m sorry about your loss but I’m sure you will come back stronger ??

This may all be true, but I still don't see how would knocking blow his turbo......

 

[Mintmoney15]

I think I have spent something like 45 minutes reading this thread and some of y'all have no chill and it's damn funny. sorry to the op that suck that you gotta start over but now you know not to drive the car like a crazy man all the time,

Sponsored