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June 2020

this is my head unit’s firmware/software

I have an iPhone12 with 10.0.2. What has worked for me as I noted from my precious post is that: Don’t connect Bluetooth with your phone to the head unit Only plug your cord after the head unit fully boots (main screen is up). This is paramount. Don’t remove the charging cord anytime the car...

Thanks for the correction. Sometimes typing these things on the phone….grrr?…tough to get 100%…glad that others are detailed for sure to ensure accuracy.

Went back and reread the invoice. No TSB for the car and there is a software update 0.2. See the invoice.

Turns out my head unit’s “About Device” Pre & Post versions is exactly the same. Got an old photo of it (last year). So the service Manager was just full of manure when he said I had a software update…..unless something else was “updated”???? Pllease someone educate me on that….

Got the same exact issue. 2020 Boost Blue with 7,100 miles. Put my scanner and P0456 was there. Saved code on my Autel MaxiAP AP200 I got at Walmart for $40. From regular use and turning ON/OFF the car for doing Daddy duties (picking up kids to school & bringing them to appointments), the Check...

Stand corrected. Bluetooth should not be linked to head unit!

Have a 2020 Boost Blue. Here’s what’s worked for me after reading some posts. 1st I bought me a USB Off/On switch on Amazon and put it in series with the charging cord. This will help to isolate the iPhone from the head unit without plugging/unplugging incessantly. 1) Make sure my USB power...

Not in my Type R, but in my minivan with my family returning home from LA on I-5 and this old Ford Explorer’s in front of me had his drive shaft falls out of his vehicle and bounce in front of me and went totally to the left-of me missing my van at 70mph. I shouted “duck” to everyone but...

I definitely am. ?‍?

Crapola, blind curve going traffic speed and road debris/junk I could not drive around, but had to drive over….clankity-clank….cringe…. Got home and put on Ramp to inspect slight damage to 3 areas 1 -under engine cover 2-shroud around down pipe 3-drivers side cover, before rear wheel

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I do them myself.

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Ducota, I appreciate the dialog ?. The damage was the Driver’s front tire. Nothing feels abnormal during driving. Wheel is steady and tire inflation holds fine. Tacthecat, thank you for the concern. Yes I did a thorough check of the tires/wheels when I initially picked them up last year. The...

When these tires were mounted on the wheels back in June of 2020 it was all good. I brought the virgin rims to the tire store and picked it up with tires installed with my minivan to install it at home. The rest if the other wheels look fine.

Put back my RSR Forged wheels & torqued to 94 ft-lb. NO clicking. Went out and upgraded my torque wrench with a digital unit that beeps when the torque is reached. Still have my old twist-handle torque wrench. Used it to do the initial torquing then used my new digital torque wrench to...

My car is bone stock with no mods whatsoever. I did an experiment and put back the stock wheels & tires. No more clicking. What was on the car with the ticking was RSR Forged wheels. They are 18 x 9.5 with 255 / 35 / 18. Turns out the issue is a self-inflicted wound. Turn out that I had my...

2020 Boost Blue with only 6,800 miles. I have this clicking sound when driving. I only noticed when the weather let me open my window to enjoy the “cool” fresh air. Went to a quiet level parking lot (after school hours of an elementary school) and recorded the clicking. Seems to be happen at...