Type R Remote Start Install issue

[JW0914]

I’m about to install the Fortin unit on my R, that I had previously on my Si. Is it possible to just tap that CPSS with the Fortin GWR or similar instead of doing the relay? To me it makes sense I could but I’m not an electrician. If not, could you tell me the pins on the relay and what wire would need to go where?

Also, when this is all said and done, does the remote start still throw all the warning lights? I never had this issue on the 2020 Si, but I know the R is different with that CPSS.

And thanks for all your detailed info on GitHub, it’s amazing and I’ve bookmarked it.

I'm only familiar CompuStar and not Fortin, but others in this thread are (Fortin also has a tech support phone number).

For the CPSS wire, it needs to see ground during crank only (negative start output); GWR will not work, as that would emulate the clutch being depressed the entire time the vehicle is running to the VSA MCU.

• When done correctly, it shouldn't throw any DTCs or CELs [Check Engine Light], however I'm unsure how Fortin's Takeover feature works with the CPSS circuit; without Takeover, the BCM still registers data errors if the vehicle is restarted without allowing the BCM to enter sleep mode (~10s) after remote starting (e.g. without Takeover, once the Type R logo disappears from the gauge cluster, it can be restarted)

To achieve Takeover, my hunch is Fortin may be bypassing the door pin circuits once remote-started, however Takeover on a manual transmission vehicle is a security risk and something I personally wouldn't be comfortable with on my CTR. While convenient, is it really that inconvenient to wait ~10s before restarting the vehicle? There is no right or wrong answer and is simply a risk analysis of the pros/cons; to me, it simply doesn't make sense to add a security risk to save ~10s.

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[JW0914]

...could you tell me the pins on the relay and what wire would need to go where?

Without a second negative start output from the brain, wire a relay with a negative output so that ground has continuity with the CPSS wire's VSA MCU side when the negative start input trigger is received from the brain:

• You'll want to double-check the wiring, but it would likely be something like:
  • 30: CPSS wire [VSA MCU side]
  • 85: fused 12v [ignition, not constant]
  • 86: brain negative start output
  • 87: ground
  • 87a: CPSS wire [clutch side]

 

[NHCivicGuy]

Without a second negative start output from the brain, wire a relay with a negative output so that ground has continuity with the CPSS wire's VSA MCU side when the negative start input trigger is received from the brain:

• You'll want to double-check the wiring, but it would likely be something like:
  • 30: CPSS wire [VSA MCU side]
  • 85: fused 12v [ignition, not constant]
  • 86: brain negative start output
  • 87: ground
  • 87a: CPSS wire [clutch side]

Awesome thank you! It looks like the Fortin unit should allow me to program that GWR into whatever else I need so I’ll dive into looking at that as well versus the relay setup if I can.

 

[JW0914]

Awesome thank you! It looks like the Fortin unit should allow me to program that GWR into whatever else I need so I’ll dive into looking at that as well versus the relay setup if I can.

If using GWR [Ground While Running], you likely can't use Takeover, as that maintains a ground while running, simulating the clutch is depressed the entire time the vehicle is running; CPSS only needs to see ground during crank, it shouldn't see ground once the vehicle has started

 

[NHCivicGuy]

If using GWR [Ground While Running], you likely can't use Takeover, as that maintains a ground while running, simulating the clutch is depressed the entire time the vehicle is running; CPSS only needs to see ground during crank, it shouldn't see ground once the vehicle has started

Yupp that’s why I’m going to see if it’s programmable (like it states it can be) to only act like the starter negative that is used for the other clutch wire, and only ground during start and then stop. I’ll be sure to comment back my findings and what ends up working out with this versus a relay setup.

 

[cholter]

The clutch wire is required, if they did not wire it in the starter never had a chance. Look up the instructions for a Fortin remote start sytem for a 2016+ 6MT Civic. Your answer will very likely be found there, assuming the wire for the R is the same as the rest of 10th gens.

there are two points that tell the computer the clutch is engaged. make sure they have both accounted for

 

[NHCivicGuy]

If using GWR [Ground While Running], you likely can't use Takeover, as that maintains a ground while running, simulating the clutch is depressed the entire time the vehicle is running; CPSS only needs to see ground during crank, it shouldn't see ground once the vehicle has started

Someone else on FB mentioned I need to use a relay even if I have a second ground during start wire. Do you know if that’s true? I was hoping I could just splice in that ground wire to that CPSS and not have to actually cut and splice each end into a relay. Obviously whichever way doesn’t throw errors is what I would want to do.

 

[JW0914]

Someone else on FB mentioned I need to use a relay even if I have a second ground during start wire. Do you know if that’s true? I was hoping I could just splice in that ground wire to that CPSS and not have to actually cut and splice each end into a relay. Obviously whichever way doesn’t throw errors is what I would want to do.

I can't recall how I wired mine, so relay it, however I would still encourage you to not use GWR.

 

[Vitamin_R]

Today, I dropped off my CTR to local installer to install Viper 2 way remote start with bluetooth capability.
I've have good experience with this installer for past few year with range rover, and lexus but they were all auto.

Well...today after 3 hours of hard work, they were not able to start the car with remote unless you press clutch...so what is the point....
They have called viper hotline to see if they can locate clutch wire to bypass but viper wasn't helpful.
Tech tried to locate the tap different wires but no luck.
Does anyone have any luck locating correct wire to bypass the clutch to remote star to work on our car?

Happy Thanksgiving!!!

Did you get it working? Does the kit detect if it's in neutral or will it try to start in gear?

 

[JW0914]

Did you get it working? Does the kit detect if it's in neutral or will it try to start in gear?

I've posted what needs to be done multiple times in this thread, please use thread search

 

[ksun003]

Installed a CompuStar CM7000 on my FK8 today. Few things worths mentioning are:

1. the CPSS plug can be accessed quite easier, with the lower steering cover removed but extremely difficult to make a solder connection at that tight spot.

2. It’s surely a lot easier make wire connections with the BCM dropped or unplugged. There is a accelerometer integrated to the BCM on all the new Honda so the car won’t start if the BCM is not at correct orientation. (For emergency shut down in case the car’s flipped)

3. there will be a few error messages displayed on the dash after remote start but won’t log any permanent error in the system. Once you restart the car during the take-over the BCM will clear it. Tried to played around for a little but couldn’t get rid of them.

4. It’s possible to have the car starter setup up as automatic to eliminate the need of reservation mode, although not recommended for safety reason.

Hi OverRev, I've recently purchased the FORTIN EVO ONE and I'm struggling to get to the CPSS wire in the engine bay. Your first photo showed a black plug with 4 wires, is that the CPSS plug? FORTIN has said that it can either be a yellow or a red wire that I'll need to relay into but on the plug there is both a red and a yellow wire, I was wondering if you could share which wire it is. Thank you.

 

[JW0914]

Hi OverRev, I've recently purchased the FORTIN EVO ONE and I'm struggling to get to the CPSS wire in the engine bay. Your first photo showed a black plug with 4 wires, is that the CPSS plug? FORTIN has said that it can either be a yellow or a red wire that I'll need to relay into but on the plug there is both a red and a yellow wire, I was wondering if you could share which wire it is. Thank you.

I cover this here (please refer to the CAD drawing on page 4 of the linked to PDF) and here (thread search is your friend).

• The CPSS plug is way up above the clutch pedal into the dash off the firewall and near impossible to get to, let alone solder into (scotch-locks are not recommended, and posi-taps, while better, can still be unreliable)

 

[ksun003]

I cover this here (please refer to the CAD drawing on page 4 of the linked to PDF) and here (thread search is your friend).

• The CPSS plug is way up above the clutch pedal into the dash off the firewall and near impossible to get to, let alone solder into (scotch-locks are not recommended, and posi-taps, while better, can still be unreliable)

Thank you JW0914, I actually have read your instructions, pdfs, but for the life of me being as much of an amateur that I am, I could not really understand this. I had an auto electrician out and he's asked me to find out which wire should be tapped into and he'll make it happen, so here I am. With all that, I've been studying your notes very diligently and I really appreciate the effort you've put in.

I'm in a RHD so I thought I might be a bit different, but based on your description, that black 4-pin plug in OverRev's post can't be the CPSS connector because in my car, it can be very easily accessed - I was hopeful this was the plug but sounds like I need to do a bit more digging, just find it hard to get to because in my car, it's behind the flex fuel line, A/C lines and is quite deep toward the firewall.

Thank you so much again for your swift reply and your willingness to help.

EDIT: below are some photos of how easy it is for me to get to the plug, if this is the right plug - and I did read that it is pin #3 yellow, but I'm just confused that (if this is indeed CPSS) there's the yellow wire yet Fortin support says it could also be red. When on this connector, there are both yellow and red wires.

 

[JW0914]

Thank you JW0914, I actually have read your instructions, pdfs, but for the life of me being as much of an amateur that I am, I could not really understand this. I had an auto electrician out and he's asked me to find out which wire should be tapped into and he'll make it happen, so here I am. With all that, I've been studying your notes very diligently and I really appreciate the effort you've put in.

I'm in a RHD so I thought I might be a bit different, but based on your description, that black 4-pin plug in OverRev's post can't be the CPSS connector because in my car, it can be very easily accessed - I was hopeful this was the plug but sounds like I need to do a bit more digging, just find it hard to get to because in my car, it's behind the flex fuel line, A/C lines and is quite deep toward the firewall.

Thank you so much again for your swift reply and your willingness to help.

EDIT: below are some photos of how easy it is for me to get to the plug, if this is the right plug - and I did read that it is pin #3 yellow, but I'm just confused that (if this is indeed CPSS) there's the yellow wire yet Fortin support says it could also be red. When on this connector, there are both yellow and red wires.

Being RHD, it's possible the CPSS plug isn't as high up, and to really confirm, you'll need to take a day or month SIS [Service Information System] subscription on TechInfo and pull the same CAD drawing in my PDF, but for the UK [RHD] version.

• TechInfo's SIS subscription is the same one dealer service centers use (they must subscribe to the i-HDS subscription that allows the use of the Denso DST-i for diagnostics), providing all info made available to dealer service centers

The easiest way to access the CPSS wire on LHD is to simply check the ~5 yellow wires in the main firewall bundle that exits the driver's side firewall (this might be reversed for a RHD, I've never been in one, which is why I highly recommend at least the day subscription on TechInfo in order to pull the correct CAD drawing for it's location and to see if it branches to the driver's side or passenger's side firewall bundle on RHD), as the correct CPSS CSS_SIG2 wire will be ~3.5V when off and ~1.3V when the clutch is depressed (please see page 4 of the PDF) - all that's needed is a multimeter to check voltages (also pull the CPSS schematic for RHD to verify wire color for the CPSS's CSS_SIG2 wire, as it may not be yellow on RHD)

• The CAD location on TechInfo is in red at the top and bottom of page 4 in my PDF
• if you do take the SIS subscription, please print to pdf the CAD drawing for RHD so I can add it to my PDF; if there's a right click menu for either saving the drawing directly as a *.svg [Scalable Vector Graphic extension] or to open the graphic in a text editor, or in raw form, please do that as well and past the resulting XML content onto PasteBin.com and link to it (SVGs are XML text coded and they allow resizing the graphic without loss of resolution when enlarging it)

I believe I cover this somewhere in the middle of this thread, but if not, the main firewall bundle is taped as well as securely taped to the firewall rubber boot grommet; before cutting any tape, take at least two photos from multiple angles of the main bundle where it exits the firewall, as it's vital it's taped back the same way to properly seal the firewall boot grommet (I recommend using Super 33 electrical tape and not cheaper generic vinyl electrical tape, of which becomes brittle over time - Super 33 is more expensive, but it remains pliable as it ages and doesn't become brittle years later - this is what seals out water from entering the cabin through the firewall boot grommet, and if that seal fails, you won't know for at least a year until you begin to smell mold/mildew in the carpet)

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