Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

[SethNES]

Whelp it's been about a year and a half since I've posted anything significant to the car. Not necessarily because I've lost interest... rather, I have a 2nd hobby that pre-dated the Type R that languished and was neglected for years: collecting classic dedicated arcade games.

At one time I had envisioned making a game room worthy of these magical treasures I grew up playing in my youth. Somewhere along the way, I'd fallen off the path and got busy with other things and never fulfilled that dream. But my love for the games never died.

My wife Sara reminded me of that and ever since then, my focus has turned towards the games and it has been my mission to achieve what I'd originally intended to do.

Have steadily been working on decorating the game room, adjusting the layout and fixing my broken games ever since. Have finally gotten to the point where my OCD has been assuaged and I can host gaming parties.

Still have a bit of work to do, but the game room is getting very close to full operation. There were 20+ non-working games when I dusted everything off. Use it or lose it, as the saying goes.

Have also collected many dedicated arcade posters to frame and display since then.

And am able to have buddies come over and play every couple weeks or so.

Collection currently stands at (44) dedicated machines..

Started collecting back in 2005 thinking my sons would love the games like I do. Well... they mostly don't. Darn Xbox live

But I sure do, haha.

So many games, but I'm outta space. The Type R is an obsession for sure, but this exceeds that. For me at least. Am very lucky the missus puts up with my hobbies. Thankfully it's just this and the car.

But these games are the reason I am unable to park the Type R in the garage like any normal, sane person would do.

But yes, this is what I've been up to lately, in case anyone was wondering. heh

And it's definitely a challenge having (2) expensive time-consuming hobbies.

Even though I find both equally fun on different levels.

That said, I plan to get back to tinkering with the good old Type R soon enough. No part-out or FL5 here. FK8 for life... More on that in a minute. Super excited

Wow I might have to take a drive and check that out one day....

Any pinball machines? I was never that great but did play a lot of Adam's family at old previous job that had it in break room (it cheats sometimes because has magnet in middle that activates and slings the ball randomly but swear it activates even when "off" to line the ball up directly down center. I guess then is when you give it a good bump...

What's on that board that looks like old putt putt golf and games / movie theater menu on the wall?

Yikes in Cali... Nvm. Don't feel like a ticket for my exhaust.

 

[fatherpain]

Thank you yes. The XDI 1350's are what I'm initially looking at considering I also have the XDI HPFP w/drilled line and Motec also.

I read idle stays normal with the XDI 1350 injectors but whacks out with the larger version. Can you confirm whether your idle is good?

Did you have to upgrade the in-tank fuel pump or upgrade the clutch with the increased HP? How much are you pushing and is your engine built?

How is your fuel consumption with the larger injectors? If you track, have you ever fuel starved? Hopefully a surge tank isn't needed as well.

The MHI was the other turbo I'd considered in the past, btw. Good choice.

Def upgrade injectors. I went with XDI 1350s. MHI, XDI 1350s, XDI pump, drilled line, Motec. Not even close to > 80% pump duty cycle. Also consider ethanol.

 

[fatherpain]

I do not have any pinball machines... But that probably is a good thing as they are even more expensive than arcade video games and another rabbit hole to fall into. Didn't play much pinball growing up. The ones I saw were mainly at carwashes and the ball falling straight down the middle while I desperately pressed the flippers to no avail was frustrating, so didn't take a liking to them.

Flash forward to now. Have several friends into pinball that want me to join their pinball league and I politely decline. The last thing I need is a 3rd expensive hobby to become OCD about haha.

The old style letter board is there to record high scores by guests. I need to spend some time and update it as I've been busy concentrating on other decorating and maintenance tasks in the cade.

Wow I might have to take a drive and check that out one day....

Any pinball machines? I was never that great but did play a lot of Adam's family at old previous job that had it in break room (it cheats sometimes because has magnet in middle that activates and slings the ball randomly but swear it activates even when "off" to line the ball up directly down center. I guess then is when you give it a good bump...

What's on that board that looks like old putt putt golf and games / movie theater menu on the wall?

Yikes in Cali... Nvm. Don't feel like a ticket for my exhaust.

 

[SethNES]

Yea pinball machines are usually cheap as in they either drop down middle or sides. I obviously was never a pinball wizard. I do like play pinball fx3 on computer or game consoles. They make it actually fun on most tables they sell.

Best to stick to two expensive hobbies at most. Third one and you'll be working the late night shift at Wendy's just to keep up.

That game room does look awesome and the high score board is a neat addition. Just need to add a hotdog machine and fountain machine and it can be like super Saturdays at putt putt golf and games.

 

[ToofHurts]

Thank you yes. The XDI 1350's are what I'm initially looking at considering I also have the XDI HPFP w/drilled line and Motec also.

I read idle stays normal with the XDI 1350 injectors but whacks out with the larger version. Can you confirm whether your idle is good?

Did you have to upgrade the in-tank fuel pump or upgrade the clutch with the increased HP? How much are you pushing and is your engine built?

How is your fuel consumption with the larger injectors? If you track, have you ever fuel starved? Hopefully a surge tank isn't needed as well.

The MHI was the other turbo I'd considered in the past, btw. Good choice.

1. Idle is relatively normal. But FBO + fuel upgrades - the car sure doesn't idle / sound like a stock FK8. But it's not choppy like a "cammed" V8. haha

2. I still have OEM intank. Only reason for me to upgrade is with higher Ethanol concentration. If your not going with Ethanol - just leave it alone.

3. 93 octane I'm averaging 25 MPG. E40 I'm averaging 17 MPG.

4. I'm on stock clutch. Unopened engine. Clutch is holding up fine. I don't beat on the car hard. Lazy shifting mostly.

5. Will soon dyno. Haven't been yet. I'm likely pushing between 450-470 on E40 right now.

 

[fatherpain]

Well alright... Revisiting a dumb issue that kinda bummed me out on the car. As some may recall, over the summer, I left the windows cracked for a few weeks and a rat climbed in my car and chewed through my front dash defroster vents. Totally ridiculous

Have putt off replacing the part for the longest time as it required pulling the entire dashboard, but finally decided to get off my duff.

Purchased this nifty interior trim removal kit from Amazon for $27.

Anytime the dash or steering wheel is disturbed it's a good idea to disconnect the battery to eliminate the possibility of an air bag deploying unexpectedly and causing injury.

Pardon the dirty interior. Really wish I had time to detail like this car deserves, but I've got way too many irons in the fire to devote that kinda effort. Maybe someday when I'm retired and the kids are all grown.

Watched a YouTube video that was helpful here.

This walkthrough has an end goal of replacing the front defroster garnish. However, to get there this will cover removal of the following items:

• Gauge hood
• Climate control
• Engine start switch
• Glove box
• Radio
• Various trim pieces
• Front center speaker
• Steering wheel (already covered in a previous post here
• Shift knob
• Shift boot
• Center console
• Instrumentation cluster

Started with the gauge hood. The video said it just pulled off, but noticed it was already detached when describing it. It didn't come off nice and easy like that for me, though I tried.

Most interior pieces are held in place with plastic clips that will break if not careful... So gently, started this side with a plastic pry tool.

Then moved to the other side. Prying and pulling forward at the same time.

And off it comes. Can see the plastic clips.

Gauge hood removed!

 

[roro40p]

dang looks like a lot of work but like you I could not live with that OCD, just a quick question .... how did you get rid of the rat

 

[fatherpain]

Fortunately, the little bugger left on his own and I never saw him, only the plastic gnawings left behind. Am thankful it didn’t die and rot in the car.

While removing the glove box, discovered he tried to nest and left a power dump. Still gotta check the cabin air filter.

Yeah my level of OCD would never accept leaving the defroster vents as is. It is a lot of work, but silver lining for replacing is:

• Will verify 100% nothing else was damaged.
• Gives me something new to learn and post about.
• As extra incentive…Will be going back with @boosted180sx ‘s upgraded set of Sweidit interior pieces. Ryota is a great friend and collaborator behind the scenes of this journal and is moving on from the Type R soon, so offered these to me and I’m humbled to accept.

dang looks like a lot of work but like you I could not live with that OCD, just a quick question .... how did you get rid of the rat

 

[fatherpain]

Next pulled this trim piece that runs across and underneath the steering column. Got a plastic pry tool inserted.

A 2nd pry tool working in tandem helped the cause.

Until was able to grab the edge with my fingers and pull.

Pulled this cover back enough to get access to this electrical connector.

Press the white tab and it will slide off.

This is the other end of the same trim piece. In hindsight, you really need to be careful here and gently pry it apart at the top right past the horizontal slots.

I pulled it away using the other free end and that wasn't the way to do it. There is an in cabin temperature sensor inside with a very delicate plastic holder that easily snaps off. Doh!

The temperature sensor itself is fine, but with the plastic bracket broken, there is a chance it could flop around and make noise later.

Will order a replacement to be sure. A $45 mistake on my part. The YouTube video warned about doing so after they did it also and it still got me.

 

[fatherpain]

Went back to the area where the hood gauge was. Underneath is this sensor that is held in place by (4) Philips screws.

Removed them all.

For this work, having an LED drop light came in very handy, though a headlamp would have worked well also.

Small Philips screwdriver worked great.

The Youtube video, suggested using a piece of cardboard to keep all of the bolts and screws organized for easy reassembly and write what they go to. Such an ingenious, yet simple idea. Will do this from now on.

 

[fatherpain]

Use a pry tool to separate the console winglet. The plastic tabs are fragile so be patient and use finesse.

The top portion can be a little stubborn so take your time and wiggle it while prying with light pressure.

And off they’ll come.

To remove the climate control module, first gently remove both winglets on either side of the center console.

With the plastic winglets removed, this screw will be exposed. There is another on the other side.

Removed the screws, placed on the cardboard and noted what they were for.

Gently pried each side of the module using plastic non-marring tools.

Worked it back and forth until it the plastic clips disengaged.

Carefully pulled the module out exposing the (2) electrical connectors, then pressed the tabs and disengaged them. They can only go on one way so didn't label them.

Climate control module removed.

 

[arpypat]

Sorry to hear about that dash vent! I replaced the plastic lens on my speedometer after a cleaning agent permanently damaged the plastic on my stock one... Tearing apart the dash is a PITA, so I feel your pain!

 

[fatherpain]

Removed the glove box by compressing the inside to disengage the hinges, then out it came.

These screws (bolts) needed to come off

Tried using a Phillips screwdriver at first and it wasn't enough to undo this stubborn one. So used a drill motor to get it started. It would have been nice to have a small cordless drill, but I only had this guy.

The other Phillips screws had a hex head, so opted for an 8mm socket instead, which worked perfect.

Pulled the door seal a little, on the passenger side.

Then pulled off this trim piece. It is just held on by plastic clips.

Carefully pulled this side trim away.

Which is also held in place by plastic clips.

Side Trim removed.

Checked to make sure nothing was hanging this up, then detached and removed this trim as well.

 

[fatherpain]

Removed this 12mm bolt securing the passenger airbag to the dash.

Ratched and extension worked nicely.

The "A" pillars also needed to be removed to pull the dash.

Used a pick tool/small flat screwdriver to pop open this tab to reveal the 8mm bolt that secures the pillar.

Again, rather than using a Phillips screwdriver, it was easier to use an 8mm socket.

Repeated for the drivers side as well.

With the bolt removed, carefully pulled the pillar to disengage the plastic clips. Can see the side curtains underneath. Fortunately, they don't need to be disturbed.

Gently wiggled the pillar until the front section came free, then pulled it out.

"A" pillars removed.

 

[fatherpain]

Head unit removal was next. These (2) bolts needed to be removed.

The bolts are on pretty tight. Couldn't get it with a regular phillips screwdriver so resorted to the drill motor again. However, I think the best method is to use an 8mm socket, ratchet and extension. But the drill does the job very quickly.

Bolts removed.

Gently lifted the head unit but didn't pull on it.

These (2) wire connectors underneath the head unit need to be undone and their plastic retaining clips released.

Here are the (2) connectors unplugged.

Needle nose pliers worked well to squeeze and release the plastic clips.

Bottom wires and plastic clips released.