Hondata Help

[Percy-fk8]

Hi everyone just a few questions about basemap for hondata.

1. Throttle response on mods selection do you choose standard or improved.

2. I bought the car used it has a few bolt ons including a catless downpipe I don’t know the brand of it since it’s heat wrapped . What downpipe should I select. (I’ve heard this doesn’t matter as much as long as it’s close).

3. What is the closed loop disabled mean.
Any input would be appreciated

4. does everyone select full power 1 and 2 gear?

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[CTRnFun]

Most people on here prefer not to use the Hondata basemaps. I see them as a temporary measure. I would have a plan for tuning as some even talk about the basemaps causing issues. My first tune was the Phearable 2.0. That is one good shelf tune.
When I first got my PRL race MAF I used a Hondata basemap, but I was just starting a custom tune with DRob in a few days at the time.

I like the improved throttle

I think you are right about the catless DP

The CTR runs in a closed loop, I don't think you want to disable this, I hope others know more

Full power in 1st and 2nd are probably not needed and will cause spin, depending on your tires. I still spin with PS4S sometimes. Prepare to not go WOT until around midway through 2nd. May still spin in 3rd.

 

[Percy-fk8]

Thanks for the reply how long would you recommend staying on the base map? I think I need the turbo inlet and charge pipes for me to go FBO and then I will get the Phearable 2.0 tune. What DP do you suggest in the calibration wizard since I don't know which catless one I have? Also, just an off-topic question is there a huge difference between the phearable 2.0 and a true custom tune?

 

[jtrader]

I've been on the basemap for a lonnnng time, but I only run the +3 and that's mainly for the increased throttle response and the rev hang disable. It does has some good pull to it, too I guess. I keep telling myself I will upgrade, but it's good enough and WAY better than OEM.

 

[CTRnFun]

Thanks for the reply how long would you recommend staying on the base map? I think I need the turbo inlet and charge pipes for me to go FBO and then I will get the Phearable 2.0 tune. What DP do you suggest in the calibration wizard since I don't know which catless one I have? Also, just an off-topic question is there a huge difference between the phearable 2.0 and a true custom tune?

Aftermarket charge pipes are a must, especially on a pre-owned ctr. The OEM are squishy and won't last.

You can get away with the stock inlet pipe until you have higher levels of airflow. The PRL inlet does fight heat well so it adds increased airflow potential and lower intake temps.

If you don't have an intercooler upgrade, I would suggest getting one. Helps make consistent power fighting the fk8 heatsoak issue.

One of the best things about the Phearable 2.0 is you can add parts and get a revision down the road for $99 I think. Even if you were stock, you will be getting about a 50hp gain. The first time you really get on it, you may be shocked how strong it feels over the OEM tune.

You may just need to test a few of the DP's in your basemaps. I imagine if you can get an approximate diameter of your current DP, you could then pick one with a similar diameter. I think 3" diameter is what performance part makers shoot for to get the full 3" front to back.

I am currently getting a DRob tune so I will let you know. For the most part, custom is likely better for the longevity of the car and smooth power delivery. The more powerful, the more necessary a custom tune will be. I waited until I did a turbo upgrade before going custom. Phearable 2.0 does not do upgraded turbos, they have a custom tune for that. For $250, the Phearable 2.0 is a great solution on your way to getting FBO.

 

[Percy-fk8]

Awesome man defiantly let me know after you go big turbo with Drob tune that's similar to my end goal. But for now, I have one more question. The options on the calibration wizard will say for example "PRL" and "PRL High FLow cat". I'm assuming that the "PRL" option only be what I select for the catless downpipe option? Also, does this apply to every other brand? Some just say the brand name. How can I confirm whether it's the catless or catted option? Because I know brands will have the catted and catless DP option.

 

[CTRnFun]

Actually PRL has 2 downpipes. The first one was catted but not high flow 5" like the current that seems to be out of stock. I just looked one up randomly. The Skunk 2 option might work. 76mm(3"). The O2 sensors seem to be close to stock position. Does yours use both sensors because some do not? Anyway, if that one does not work, just search another in the list.

On revision 2 with DRob with the MHI stage 2 and PRL race MAF. Already feeling badass. It does not feel as raw as the Phearable. Much smoother so far. I will keep you posted.

 

[Percy-fk8]

So the downpipe utilizes both O2 sensors. I actually a have a defouler on the secondary O2. I will try the skunk2 DP and let you know how it feels. Back to what you said that the PRL is the catted and the other option is high flow cat. so how do I know that the calibration wizard skunk2 DP is the catless not catted version of their downpipe? That's awesome how many revisions do you plan on doing with Drob and how much are you putting down with the stock fuel system?

 

[Percy-fk8]

this is what im talking about calibration wizard has 1 skunk2 option. So how do Ik its calibrated for catless instead of the cat?

 

[CTRnFun]

I did not catch that. I thought they only had the catless. With access to your Flashpro, connect a laptop and run the FP manager. It may tell you what downpipe you have. It depends on if the creator labeled it so, or if they locked the tune so you cant read it. When you connect the FP to the car and the laptop to the FP, in the manager, select the FlashPro button. A window opens and then you can select calibrations. It should tell you what calibrations you have loaded in the FP. You can download the calibration and open in the manager. Once a calibration is loaded, you should get a Mods or Modifications option to select, unless creator locked it. I don't have more specific instructions on that but just poke around to see if you can find. Out side of that, maybe do some searching on catless only downpipes for the fk8. HKS might work. I have not seen a catted version but I did miss the catted Skunk 2.

 

[m_kluch]

Don't sweat the downpipe selection too much. Just pick any one of them and you will be fine. Do some datalogging after you get a tune on and make sure you don't have any knock retard at WOT. Also look to see how much fuel pump duty cycle you are using at WOT. I don't recommend going above 90% on the high pressure fuel pump. If you are over 90% fuel pump duty cycle in the 3-5K rpm range then I would reduce the air charge request in the appropriate area to lower the fuel demand.
I would pick the standard throttle response and reduced power in 1st and 2nd. Do some launches and 2nd gear pulls to fine tune your torque request tables to keep wheel spin to a minimum without traction control.
My WOT torque request tables are set up such that I hit about 18psi peak in 1st gear and 21psi peak in 2nd gear. Third to sixth is full power. All depends on your tires and level of wheel spin that you want.

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